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Old 06-21-2013, 03:00 PM   #19276
fifthcircle
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Location: Knee deep in diapers, Nebraska.
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I bet wheelies are easy after hitting the grocery store. LOL

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Old 06-21-2013, 03:17 PM   #19277
B1
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speaking of wheelies... had piles of old DRZ footage from the past two years so thought i'd string it into a vid, along with the common mods etc in case anyone was thinking of buying one of these fine yellow beasts.

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Old 06-21-2013, 03:58 PM   #19278
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Great video!!

TT case savers should've been mentioned too imo, as they are a must.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #19279
fifthcircle
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I agree, great video! Made me chuckle a few times.

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Old 06-21-2013, 07:16 PM   #19280
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyWriter View Post
Well, the new-to-me DRZ-SM engine decided to take a crap somewhere in the lower end. The dream was always to send it to SSW once the motor went kablooey, and while it hasn't exploded yet I'd bet that with a few more rides it would (the engine is LOUD and getting louder, sounds like something is hitting, well, something).

So I've been in contact with Eddie and I think that'll be the next stage. I'm disappointed that I won't get to ride it this summer but maybe that's for the best since it gets too $&@!#% hot here. Still, it was more fun than my heavy-ass GS and I was looking forward to offroad and canyon carving.

Oh well. Fingers crossed it'll be done by fall!
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:12 AM   #19281
jgas
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Nuke proof DRZ carb?

I want the most reliable DRZ-E I can build. My Keihn flatslide works great when it works. I keep having problems with stopped up jets, sticking floats, etc. Where I ride in rural Ar. you just have to buy whatever fuel is available. 87 octane from a mom and pop station is the norm. My buddy with an S model never has problems. I bought a CV carb from the LTZ 400 Quad and made it work, but lost a lot of power and throttle response, so I went back to the original carb and got back the power and response, but again had multiple problems. I use a fuel filter, try to get good fuel when possible, and keep the air filter clean. Obviously on a 200 mile off road ride I can't keep it perfectly clean but every ride starts with a clean filter at least. My theory is the stock E model carb is too complicated with too many fuel and air circuits to stop up. But I'm no engineer, just a shade tree guy who rides in some extreme remote places.

I'm at a loss. I'd like to keep the good traits of the stock carb when it works, but have the reliability of my old XR 400 and 600s, which never had carb issues. Could I find an older XR carb and make it work? Is there a CV carb that is better? If I have to I'll go back to the CV carb and put up with the loss of power if that is the only way or best way.

Another thing I hate is the tight fit of the Keihn carb. Not a problem in the shop but working on it on the trail with fanny pack tools sucks. I would like to find a physically smaller/less bulky carb that can be removed and replaced easily.

I've read mixed things about the Edelbrock carbs, don't know what to really think.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:15 AM   #19282
spicciani
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Hey everyone I just bought a 2002 DRZ400s and when i was cleaning the carb a very small rubber o-ring came out. Any idea what it might be or where it should go? - Julius
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:25 AM   #19283
See-Three
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Location: New Hampshire Seacoast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spicciani View Post
Hey everyone I just bought a 2002 DRZ400s and when i was cleaning the carb a very small rubber o-ring came out. Any idea what it might be or where it should go? - Julius

Probably # 37 or 33

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Old 06-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #19284
spicciani
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Hey thanks alot I bet it was 37. Also I am looking it jetting the bike I see alot of people switch to the E carb but I am poor and or cheap. I was told the biggest problem with the bsr36 is the needle . right now I am looking at the JD and DJ kit I have the stock pipe for the S.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:17 AM   #19285
JoCo
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JD kit

I put the JD kit in my DRZ with the 3x3 mod back in '09, has run great since then, no problems. The instructions were straightforward and easy to follow.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:43 AM   #19286
fifthcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoCo View Post
I put the JD kit in my DRZ with the 3x3 mod back in '09, has run great since then, no problems. The instructions were straightforward and easy to follow.
I read a lot of posts before jetting.... JD kit is the popular one, and I was happy with the parts/instructions when I installed it recently. Only one short ride on it, and it seems perfect.

I do have a related question:
Hot and Humid jetting? I went with the recommended red needle at 3rd clip for "above 75deg / stock pipe / below 4k ft". Curious if most do that vs the blue needle. Its almost always hot/humid here in Nebraska (80+ deg with high humidity).

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Old 06-22-2013, 03:25 PM   #19287
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Location: Va Beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
It is the stock tool bag using the relocation bracket from Tonnsfabrication.com They have a bracket to mount it on the front fender too. Rack is from him too, as well as skid plate and sprocket cover.

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Tonns has some great stuff! I got my skid plate from him.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:45 PM   #19288
Gadget678
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Location: Victoria, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgas View Post
I want the most reliable DRZ-E I can build. My Keihn flatslide works great when it works. I keep having problems with stopped up jets, sticking floats, etc. Where I ride in rural Ar. you just have to buy whatever fuel is available. 87 octane from a mom and pop station is the norm. My buddy with an S model never has problems. I bought a CV carb from the LTZ 400 Quad and made it work, but lost a lot of power and throttle response, so I went back to the original carb and got back the power and response, but again had multiple problems. I use a fuel filter, try to get good fuel when possible, and keep the air filter clean. Obviously on a 200 mile off road ride I can't keep it perfectly clean but every ride starts with a clean filter at least. My theory is the stock E model carb is too complicated with too many fuel and air circuits to stop up. But I'm no engineer, just a shade tree guy who rides in some extreme remote places.

I'm at a loss. I'd like to keep the good traits of the stock carb when it works, but have the reliability of my old XR 400 and 600s, which never had carb issues. Could I find an older XR carb and make it work? Is there a CV carb that is better? If I have to I'll go back to the CV carb and put up with the loss of power if that is the only way or best way.

Another thing I hate is the tight fit of the Keihn carb. Not a problem in the shop but working on it on the trail with fanny pack tools sucks. I would like to find a physically smaller/less bulky carb that can be removed and replaced easily.

I've read mixed things about the Edelbrock carbs, don't know what to really think.
Have You tried or considered carrying an octane booster or similar? It would be interesting to see if it made a difference.

Another problem with some of of the old servos may be moisture in the fuel.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:23 PM   #19289
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Or Seafoam, maybe...


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Old 06-22-2013, 07:33 PM   #19290
JT
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Location: Elgin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgas View Post
I want the most reliable DRZ-E I can build. My Keihn flatslide works great when it works. I keep having problems with stopped up jets, sticking floats, etc. Where I ride in rural Ar. you just have to buy whatever fuel is available. 87 octane from a mom and pop station is the norm. My buddy with an S model never has problems. I bought a CV carb from the LTZ 400 Quad and made it work, but lost a lot of power and throttle response, so I went back to the original carb and got back the power and response, but again had multiple problems. I use a fuel filter, try to get good fuel when possible, and keep the air filter clean. Obviously on a 200 mile off road ride I can't keep it perfectly clean but every ride starts with a clean filter at least. My theory is the stock E model carb is too complicated with too many fuel and air circuits to stop up. But I'm no engineer, just a shade tree guy who rides in some extreme remote places.

I'm at a loss. I'd like to keep the good traits of the stock carb when it works, but have the reliability of my old XR 400 and 600s, which never had carb issues. Could I find an older XR carb and make it work? Is there a CV carb that is better? If I have to I'll go back to the CV carb and put up with the loss of power if that is the only way or best way.

Another thing I hate is the tight fit of the Keihn carb. Not a problem in the shop but working on it on the trail with fanny pack tools sucks. I would like to find a physically smaller/less bulky carb that can be removed and replaced easily.

I've read mixed things about the Edelbrock carbs, don't know what to really think.
Have you checked your petcock screen? Clogged jets and leaking float valves are most often caused by dirty fuel. Put an in-line filter in the fuel hose. Most people do not have any more trouble with clogged jets on a FCR than with a CV. Something else is wrong. Also, do not let gasahol sit in the tank for more than a few weeks, it will break down and plug the carb.
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