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Old 03-06-2011, 03:57 AM   #8191
Gadget678
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Location: Victoria, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Of course, part of it is, I have never adjusted the suspension, nor worked on any of it. I doubt anyone who had the bike before me did either.

I have gotten a quote on having the suspension fully reworked, resprung and revalved. Its pretty pricey.
Getting your suspension set properly is the best money you can spend on a bike...... it makes a massive difference.
As a guide- my tuner charges approx AU$550 to $600 to reshim, service and tune my suspension. I get it done every year or two (the oil does go off!)
A good suspension tuner will want to see you ride first, and will do a final dial in once he's completed his servicing.
Heavier springs aren't always the answer either- be cautious of a tuner that automatically says to go heavier. (With the standard springs, my tuner believes that my DRZ is too heavily sprung for my weight -72kg + gear - using a 17lt Safari tank..... but he allowed for this with the oil weight, height and shim adjustment)
My opinion, for what it's worth: If you know little about suspension (as it appears from your post) track down a good tuner, and enjoy the difference..... for a lot less than the cost of a KTM that, technically speaking, should still have the suspension tuned to suit you.
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:10 AM   #8192
Jon_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget678 View Post
Getting your suspension set properly is the best money you can spend on a bike...... it makes a massive difference.
As a guide- my tuner charges approx AU$550 to $600 to reshim, service and tune my suspension. I get it done every year or two (the oil does go off!)
A good suspension tuner will want to see you ride first, and will do a final dial in once he's completed his servicing.
Heavier springs aren't always the answer either- be cautious of a tuner that automatically says to go heavier. (With the standard springs, my tuner believes that my DRZ is too heavily sprung for my weight -72kg + gear - using a 17lt Safari tank..... but he allowed for this with the oil weight, height and shim adjustment)
My opinion, for what it's worth: If you know little about suspension (as it appears from your post) track down a good tuner, and enjoy the difference..... for a lot less than the cost of a KTM that, technically speaking, should still have the suspension tuned to suit you.
Excellent post............

Regarding heavier springs.

When I got my DRZ from a friend he had it setup in a way I felt like it was to soft. What I found out was on rough bumpy stuff the bike floats over that stuff as the suspension moves up and down.

It does dive a little more that I was used to under hard braking on the street but I have learned to control that and the trade off is worth it.

I also agree it would be a good idea to try to dial in the factory setup first before spending money on springs that may not be needed. At least I think that's what you were getting at.

Jon...
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:05 PM   #8193
exjeeper
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Southwest Colo.
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2001 DRZ400e LOW miles

Any body have recommendations for a brand of motor oil they've had
particularly good (or particularly bad) luck with. Or can anybody direct me to the proper thread if this isn't the place for this?
Also, the manual says to use 10-40 (depending on climate...), but I have a friend that uses 15-40 Mobil 1. For southern Colorado, I'm guessing 10-40 will work fine.

Just not sure what brand to use in it... Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:52 PM   #8194
matkal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exjeeper View Post
Any body have recommendations for a brand of motor oil they've had
particularly good (or particularly bad) luck with. Or can anybody direct me to the proper thread if this isn't the place for this?
Also, the manual says to use 10-40 (depending on climate...), but I have a friend that uses 15-40 Mobil 1. For southern Colorado, I'm guessing 10-40 will work fine.

Just not sure what brand to use in it... Thanks for your help.

Here we go!!!


I use Maxima Extra4 and change it every 1000 miles.
100% ester oil is recommended on TT. For as often as I change it, once or twice a year, the cost isn't too bad.
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:59 PM   #8195
Doctor Zed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exjeeper View Post
Any body have recommendations for a brand of motor oil they've had
particularly good (or particularly bad) luck with. Or can anybody direct me to the proper thread if this isn't the place for this?
Also, the manual says to use 10-40 (depending on climate...), but I have a friend that uses 15-40 Mobil 1. For southern Colorado, I'm guessing 10-40 will work fine.

Just not sure what brand to use in it... Thanks for your help.
I always use Rotella. I believe it's 15-40. I have always had good luck with it and it's pretty cheap. I ride the heck out of my DRZ, so no super spendy oil for me.
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:16 PM   #8196
Yokomo
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BRRRAAAP

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Old 03-06-2011, 08:36 PM   #8197
Tellydoug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
BRRRAAAP

Ummmm... Mine doesn't look like that. Maybe if you threw it in a cement mixer and let it run for an hour or so.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:22 AM   #8198
HellSickle
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Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Zed View Post
I always use Rotella. I believe it's 15-40. I have always had good luck with it and it's pretty cheap. I ride the heck out of my DRZ, so no super spendy oil for me.
+1

I use Rotella in all of my 4-stroke crankcases (DRZ, KLR, XR), and run it in my KTM 2-stroke tranny (recommended by Rekluse).
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:23 PM   #8199
TRZ Charlie
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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A little advice?

Ok, I've added a circuit via terminal strip and fuse for charging my IPod, Camera...ect. I will eventually place the charging equipment in my Wolfman Enduro tank bag.

What I want to do is add some kind of accessory bar for a toggle switch and USB charge port. I've done some googling around but not much trips my trigger.

Anyone have pictures of something similar. I am thinking it would have to attached to my bar clamps.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:41 PM   #8200
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
Ok, I've added a circuit via terminal strip and fuse for charging my IPod, Camera...ect. I will eventually place the charging equipment in my Wolfman Enduro tank bag.

What I want to do is add some kind of accessory bar for a toggle switch and USB charge port. I've done some googling around but not much trips my trigger.

Anyone have pictures of something similar. I am thinking it would have to attached to my bar clamps.

Thanks in advance.
I have used a piece of aluminum sheet metal held down by the bar clamp bolts. I've done this on a number of bikes.

This weekend I made my own sub-mount setup for a Scotts damper that mounts to the bar clamps. Very slick, if I do say so. Instead of shelling out $400 for new triple clamps & sub mount kit, I was able to machine my own mounts out of some scrap 1/4" aluminum bar I had in the garage (machine = using my table saw with carbide blade).

One of the things that made this job easy, and that will help with your project, is the fact that the DRZ bar clamps are flat on top and the bolts are not recessed into the bar clamps. If this weren't the case, you would have to use bushings to raise the mounting surface above the bar clamps.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:53 PM   #8201
rottenagenda
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wheres a good link to taking off all the unnecessary on the drz
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:06 PM   #8202
TRZ Charlie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenagenda View Post
wheres a good link to taking off all the unnecessary on the drz
http://www.paochow.com/DRZguide/DRZguide.php
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:23 PM   #8203
rthuey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
NO I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT THE VERY SAME SAFARI TANK THAT I POSTED HERE. I'm talking about the very same side panel tank I posted here.
nomad


Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
unless i am missing it somewhere. he doesn't really get into the stripping of it.

this


Junk to Remove
Remove the bar end weights on the ends of your handlebars.
Remove the rubber foot peg inserts. You will want those pegs to have good grip when you're flying down some dirt trail, the rubber just gets in the way.
Remove the kickstand safety switch. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If the kickstand is down on a DRZ400S the bike will not start. On jumps and bumps the kickstand will bounce around momentarily killing your engine. I consider this bad and dangerous, so I found the kickstand sensor, cut the two wires and soldered the wires together so that the ignition would think that the kickstand was always up.
Remove the clutch safety switch. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. If the clutch isn't pulled in the DRZ400S it will not start. I consider this just one more electronic switch to break 20 miles from nowhere so I disconnected this safety device. What I did was follow the wires from the clutch into the wiring mess under the headlight shroud and just unplugged them. This is much easier to do in your garage than in a cold forest with the sun quickly setting.

Exhaust BracketThe stock mirrors weigh 2 pounds combined. If you're not riding on the street you might want to remove these.
Remove the passenger foot pegs. These are 1.67 pounds combined, including the bolts. The only problem is the right foot peg bracket hold the exhaust in place. Motobits makes a nice aluminum bracket to replace the right foot peg bracket so your exhaust doesn't fall off.

from here

there is a site that has specific info and i can't think of it. checked and it is not on the thread index. will add it if i recall it. speaking of...


help request - i went through the index to check and fix as needed all links and their are a few more TT linked articles that are dead. my guess is cause of the site change. anyways, can someone more familiar with that site find us new links for these? please and tanks!!!

Starter Shim Order
Ruckus Headlight Mod
3x3 Mod
Carb Vent Reroute
Spring Removal w/ pictures
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:25 PM   #8204
BRUNO BOTELHO
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Location: S. MIGUEL-AZORES
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Last weekend went for 2 rides with some friends:





The terrain was soft, but very nice to ride









Vídeos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etLyBACcWrY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYoLURQI3Dw
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:34 PM   #8205
Dadd
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Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Question Shop Stand for DRZ

Who's using what for a shop stand?

I got a lot of use out of my old dirt-bike lever type stand before I sold my KTM440, but it's just too tall to slip under the skid plate of the DRZ, and I'm tired of rocking and lifting to get it (the bike) up onto a milk crate to change wheels. I've looked around in the local shops and haven't seen anything much shorter that

Anybody using something slick?
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