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Old 04-20-2011, 01:37 PM   #8941
GlennR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
Totally get it.

Even getting the female Fastex end and clamping it that way is not all that secure. I've had properly-snapped Fastex pop free many a time. That would be better than what you have, but I like where you're going with a 'biner.

Here's what I would do: cut the Fastex (not the webbing) end out altogether. That should leave you with loop in your nylon webbing. Loop as large a light-duty 'biner as can fit through that loop - and presto - you clip into the peg bracket. Ditto on the other side. It might jangle a bit (metal on metal), and over time, depending on what your 'biner is made out of, it'll likely rust a bit, but you have a cheap solution and you're secure.

Hope that helps!

ps: I echo the other poster's concern about heat. On my current plastic, I have what looks like an OEM foil shield on the inside of the plastic, and my Dirt Bagz also have a bit of foil on them. Still, after a long ride, the stuff inside the right bag is clearly warm. Not worryingly so, but warm nevertheless.

Since this is the first DRZ, I don't know if all plastics come with that heat shield or not. In fact, I just picked up a newish set from an inmate and it had no insulation of any kind. So I bought a roll of heavy-duty insulated foil tape, and lined that exhaust panel with that. If your panel doesn't have this, then definitely shield it somehow.
I have a buddy who owns Misty Mountain Threadworks, which makes climbing harnesses. He stopped by today and I showed him the bags that I'm trying to attach to my bike. He told me to stop by his shop, where he has all kinds of clips & buckles, and he'll set me up. I'll post some photos of what we end up using. It's good to have friends.

GlennR screwed with this post 04-20-2011 at 06:47 PM
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:45 PM   #8942
GreatWhiteHunter
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Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
Unplanned Tech. Day
Is that a '96 ATK 605 in the background? I can remember the Cycle World test on that bike and how much they raved about it. Really made me want one.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:08 PM   #8943
DR650SEDDY
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Originally Posted by GreatWhiteHunter View Post
Is that a '96 ATK 605 in the background? I can remember the Cycle World test on that bike and how much they raved about it. Really made me want one.
Yes it is 605 don't know what year but 2spot takes good care of it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:08 PM   #8944
Fictitious
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Originally Posted by ChaseM1991 View Post
Looks like fun. Anyone tried the Kenda K784's or Kenda 270's?
Just looked at the price on the Distanzia's, they seem a bit steep in price.
I've got some K270s on order, I'll let you know how they work out; so far, from what I've seen, they get generally favorable reviews. Speaking of that, they're supposed to be in today or tomorrow Yay! Can go on the highway without my back tire going all squirrely. :P
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:09 PM   #8945
whitemtns
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Wrench question(s)

New owner question for y'all... I just picked up an '01 DRZ-S this weekend (photos). It has 5700 miles and I'm the third owner. I'm not convinced the P.O. did much maintenance (but he only put 1,500 miles on it) and as much as I want to start riding I feel I need to do some work first. I've been making my way through the 500+ pages of this thread and it has a ton of great info.

Here's what I'm thinking in terms of work:

- disassemble swingarm, clean and grease
- disassemble headset, clean and grease
- 3x3 mod and correct carb jetting
- locktite on the sprocket shaft? (forgot where the loctite goes, but I have the Thumpertalk page bookmarked)

Particularly from a safety/reliability standpoint is there anything else I should be looking at? All the other bikes I've owned were nearly new and ridden mostly on the road. This one has seen some dusty, muddy, Montana trails.

Thanks for any advice.







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Old 04-20-2011, 03:16 PM   #8946
jeff_in_rc
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitemtns View Post
New owner question for y'all... I just picked up an '01 DRZ-S this weekend (photos). It has 5700 miles and I'm the third owner. I'm not convinced the P.O. did much maintenance (but he only put 1,500 miles on it) and as much as I want to start riding I feel I need to do some work first. I've been making my way through the 500+ pages of this thread and it has a ton of great info.

Here's what I'm thinking in terms of work:

- disassemble swingarm, clean and grease
- disassemble headset, clean and grease
- 3x3 mod and correct carb jetting
- locktite on the sprocket shaft? (forgot where the loctite goes, but I have the Thumpertalk page bookmarked)

Particularly from a safety/reliability standpoint is there anything else I should be looking at? All the other bikes I've owned were nearly new and ridden mostly on the road. This one has seen some dusty, muddy, Montana trails.

Thanks for any advice.
You are off to a good start with the maintenance you want to do and I will add:

clean and oil the air filter.
change the oil and filter, you may want to check the screen to, bottom the the front down tube with the small drain plug.
maybe check the valve clearence so you know its good.
if it still has the stock tires get some better tires depending on what you plan to ride. They are called "death wings" for a reason!
if it DOES NOT have case savers and you plan to ride off-road get some from the TT store or any on-line parts place.

I'm sure I can come up with more as anybody else her can but you get the idea.

enjoy your new ride!
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:23 PM   #8947
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitemtns View Post
Particularly from a safety/reliability standpoint is there anything else I should be looking at?

Check out ur wheel bearings, front & rear suspension maintenance (change z oil in front + reset z stiffness of both susp., upper & lower screws to ur weight & type of riding see owner manuel for that).
Look @ ur spark plug to see how bad it's burning. Check ur vavles, they might not need it @ this point. Air filter?? chain & sprockets? if u rejet ur carb u might wanna consider replacing ur muffler with a performance one. Handle bars? if u have a stock one remove it immediatly and use it as a cloth hangerprotaper or renthal would be better choice.
Beside engine guard hand guards are essential for off-rd riding.
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #8948
HellSickle
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Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitemtns View Post
New owner question for y'all... I just picked up an '01 DRZ-S this weekend (photos). It has 5700 miles and I'm the third owner. I'm not convinced the P.O. did much maintenance (but he only put 1,500 miles on it) and as much as I want to start riding I feel I need to do some work first. I've been making my way through the 500+ pages of this thread and it has a ton of great info.

Here's what I'm thinking in terms of work:

- disassemble swingarm, clean and grease
- disassemble headset, clean and grease
- 3x3 mod and correct carb jetting
- locktite on the sprocket shaft? (forgot where the loctite goes, but I have the Thumpertalk page bookmarked)
Doesn't the bike have zirk fittings on the swingarm & suspension? The only fittings on my '05 E model that need disassembly to grease are the top & bottom shock mounts. The bottom shock mount uses loose needle bearings, the top is a heim joint.
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:19 PM   #8949
topaz250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Doesn't the bike have zirk fittings on the swingarm & suspension? The only fittings on my '05 E model that need disassembly to grease are the top & bottom shock mounts. The bottom shock mount uses loose needle bearings, the top is a heim joint.
Zerks only on E IIRC, S and SM none. Even with zerks its recommended maintenance, more info TT.
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:38 AM   #8950
MKorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fictitious View Post
I've got some K270s on order, I'll let you know how they work out; so far, from what I've seen, they get generally favorable reviews. Speaking of that, they're supposed to be in today or tomorrow Yay! Can go on the highway without my back tire going all squirrely. :P
I put K 270's on mine and they were a huge improvement over the Deathwings in the dirt and sand. they are not as good on the pavement (duh), but worth the switch if you ride alot of dirt. i have 2500 miles on them now and the rear is only half gone, and that is with a lot of road riding ... this pic is at 2000 miles.

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Old 04-21-2011, 01:55 PM   #8951
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I like that tread design.

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Old 04-21-2011, 11:40 PM   #8952
canadius_maximus
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Uggh! broke a rear tank bolt!

After putting my new MRD pipe on, I put my IMS tank back on .... and as I tightened the left rear tank bolt, it sheared! I didn't think I overtightened it - noodle arms, remember? I even used a large flathead screwdriver to leverage the tank forward (to align the bracket holes with the nut, and aleviate the shear load) ... but ... clearly something went wrong. I've taken off and replaced this tank at least a dozen times, so nothing seemed amiss ...



I tried to continue screwing it out by using pliers to grab from underneath the subframe, but I couldn't get enough purchase.

Thoughts?

thanks,

ps: here's the (semi) finished product ....

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Old 04-22-2011, 03:46 AM   #8953
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
After putting my new MRD pipe on, I put my IMS tank back on .... and as I tightened the left rear tank bolt, it sheared!
Thoughts?
Get a left hand twist drill bit that is smaller than the bolt. Use a center punch & carefully tap a starter divet in the CENTER of the broken bolt. Chuck the left hand drill bit up in your drill (be sure to REVERSE the setting on the drill!). Drill thru the broken bolt. Nine times out of ten the broken shaft will back right out of the hole without any further work.
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:47 AM   #8954
GlennR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasvis View Post
Get a left hand twist drill bit that is smaller than the bolt. Use a center punch & carefully tap a starter divet in the CENTER of the broken bolt. Chuck the left hand drill bit up in your drill (be sure to REVERSE the setting on the drill!). Drill thru the broken bolt. Nine times out of ten the broken shaft will back right out of the hole without any further work.


Why a "left hand bit"?

I'd say to drill a hole in the bolt, then use a screw extractor bit to grip the hole and unscrew the bolt. That is the purpose of drilling a hole, right? I'd also put a few drop of penetrating oil on the broken bolt & letting it soak in for a few hours, or longer.

If you mess up you may end up having to use a nut and a longer bolt to secure the tank.
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:33 AM   #8955
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
Why a "left hand bit"?

I'd say to drill a hole in the bolt, then use a screw extractor bit to grip the hole and unscrew the bolt. That is the purpose of drilling a hole, right? I'd also put a few drop of penetrating oil on the broken bolt & letting it soak in for a few hours, or longer.

If you mess up you may end up having to use a nut and a longer bolt to secure the tank.
Using a left hand drill bit will normally back the broken bolt out without the hassle of using a screw extractor, if per chance the bolt does not back out, then, yes, you can use an extractor... but extractors that small are really easy to break off on the hole & then you have a real mess dealing with a hardened bit stuck in the hole.
Left hand bits are the method that we normally tried first with good success in the 30 years of running our automotive machine shop.
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