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Old 07-20-2011, 05:36 AM   #9721
caljon88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naq View Post
We were just debating this last Sat. I had been doing it with the rear in the air to allow the tire to spin, but the first line in the service manual for chain adjustment says "Place the bike on the side stand." We did it that way and set it to 1.75". It ended up needing to be adjusted one notch tighter on the snails. I was probably still in spec, but on the loose side on previous adjustment. I didn't cross check the Clymer manual.
The Clymer said it doesn't matter if the rear is on or off the ground, which obviously it does. I had it up and I was reading 1.75 ish and when I dropped it, it put it over the 2" mark.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:19 AM   #9722
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caljon88 View Post
I'm just starting to do some of my own maintenance and I have a conflict in my book. When I adjust my chain should I have it on the ground or on my lift? I get different readings either way. My book says 2" to 1.6" is the tolerance range. Whats the ruling, on or off?

The best way to adjust any chain on a motorcycle is with the rear sprocket paralell to the countershaft sprocket also known as the tightest point. I usually will adjust the chain one time with the suspension disconnected during routine service with the bike on a jack. This allows me to find the absolute tightest point at which to leave some slack. Then I reassemble the suspension and record my free slack at this adjustment and write it in my service manual for future reference.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:08 AM   #9723
ZukiNoomin
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Location: Winter Springs, FL
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n00b q's

Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
I am going to buy a DRZ400S and I was wondering if I could ride it at the dunes with paddles and what are some mods I should bolt on when I get it. And how bad is the head shake on the DRZ400S at HWY speeds like 70MPH and what kind of range have you gotten out of it.

Thanks guys.
No real dunes here in FLA USA, so can't comment on sand paddles.
With stock gearing; and properly inflated, balanced tires, I have no wobble or headshake up to 90 mph.
Proper spoke tensioning is important for controlling shaking/wobbling at speed.
Fuel economy (again with stock gearing) above 50 mpg at steady highway (45-55mph) speed.
Larger gas tank is one of the most popular bolt-ons, 100 miles is all you are likely to get before reserve
with the stock tank on the road.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:22 AM   #9724
LittleRedToyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
And how bad is the head shake on the DRZ400S at HWY speeds like 70MPH and what kind of range have you gotten out of it.
no noticeable headshake on mine at 70...unless there are crosswinds...then there is whole bike shake.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:50 AM   #9725
Southernboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crudmop View Post
Damper
Correct sir. Too often misspelled.

Hey you guys, got a question for you, why does the S-model have a GREEN light for the turn signals on the dash-panel? That doesnt make sense at all, you already have green for the neutral indicator.

Can it be changed so the turn signal is amber ?
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:16 AM   #9726
Fixnfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
Hello,

It was time to replace a coolant hose, which of course meant I drained the coolant. I took the opportunity to flush with water, ran it for a few minutes, drained it, and then began filling with Engine Ice. Left rad bleed hole was open, pour in slow, burping out the air by moving bike left and right. Kept pouring until it came out the bleed hole. Added more until it was right up top at filler cap and had some in overflow tank.

Problem is that I only got around 1 L in .... I understand it is a lot more...

Thank you for any help you can give .....

CM

Did you remove the drain plug on the water pump? If not, then you still have old coolant/water mix in the engine.
It's the small screw below the neck of the pump.
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:56 AM   #9727
canadius_maximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixnfly View Post
Did you remove the drain plug on the water pump? If not, then you still have old coolant/water mix in the engine.
It's the small screw below the neck of the pump.
Yes - sorry - forgot to add that. To drain (both coolant and then again the water), I

1) opened the filler cap
2) removed the water pump drain plug
3) opened the bleed hole
4) disconnected the overflow hose and drained the overflow tank

My thinking is that I haven't let it get warmed up enough ? Friend at work suggested at least 5-10 minutes.

cm
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canadius_maximus screwed with this post 07-22-2011 at 05:25 AM
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:46 AM   #9728
jraugie1
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Removing the CA Evap Cannister System on S

Last Sunday I filled up the tank on my just bought stock 09 DR-Z400S and it died about 2 miles later. Thanks to this thread I found out what the problem was. The California evaporative canister fills up with raw fuel and forces the fuel shut off valve to close so the engine starves. Decision made...it has to go. I checked the recommended ThumperTalk site and the pictures there but I am still unclear about what to do with the leftover carb connections. I know this topic has been covered in numerous posts but is there a COMPLETE diagram or pic that shows what you end up with with the canister system gone? Do I need to cap off the leftover tube on the carb above the fuel inlet or does it stay open to the atmosphere? I understand that the tank vent gets re-routed and can stay open. Also there is a fuel shutoff knob (?) with a tube going to the carb. TT says to remove it but doesn't say whether to cap the carb nipple or to leave it open. Sorry for asking the same questions again as others but I need the clarification. I have already pulled everything off and I want to ride. It seems to run ok in the garage but I want to make sure all is ok before heading off to the hills. Thanks all.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:06 PM   #9729
ptgarcia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jraugie1 View Post
Last Sunday I filled up the tank on my just bought stock 09 DR-Z400S and it died about 2 miles later. Thanks to this thread I found out what the problem was. The California evaporative canister fills up with raw fuel and forces the fuel shut off valve to close so the engine starves. Decision made...it has to go. I checked the recommended ThumperTalk site and the pictures there but I am still unclear about what to do with the leftover carb connections. I know this topic has been covered in numerous posts but is there a COMPLETE diagram or pic that shows what you end up with with the canister system gone? Do I need to cap off the leftover tube on the carb above the fuel inlet or does it stay open to the atmosphere? I understand that the tank vent gets re-routed and can stay open. Also there is a fuel shutoff knob (?) with a tube going to the carb. TT says to remove it but doesn't say whether to cap the carb nipple or to leave it open. Sorry for asking the same questions again as others but I need the clarification. I have already pulled everything off and I want to ride. It seems to run ok in the garage but I want to make sure all is ok before heading off to the hills. Thanks all.


Cap the vacuum nipple on the carb then vent the tank to atmosphere.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:19 PM   #9730
markjenn
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Couple picts of the Sargent seat for the DRZ. At least on a short ride, night/day better. Absolutely no fit issues whatsoever - in fact, with the Clarke tank, it fits better than the stock seat. Really impressed with the seats from Sargent these days.





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Old 07-20-2011, 12:46 PM   #9731
jraugie1
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Both?

Do I cap them both? One connected directly from the canister and I did cap that one. The second one came from the shut off valve. Cap that one also? Any thoughts on the fuel shut off connection?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptgarcia View Post
Cap the vacuum nipple on the carb then vent the tank to atmosphere.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:16 PM   #9732
ptgarcia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jraugie1 View Post
Do I cap them both? One connected directly from the canister and I did cap that one. The second one came from the shut off valve. Cap that one also? Any thoughts on the fuel shut off connection?


It's been a few years since I did mine but I removed all the smog equipment, valve included, and capped the vacuum port on the underside of the carb. If there was another connection on the carb it must be a vent, which I would have routed down by the swing arm pivot with the rest of them.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:30 PM   #9733
jraugie1
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Ok

Sounds good. I will vent the second carb connection. I'll just leave the fuel shut off knob alone for now until I get an answer on that one. Thanks.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:57 PM   #9734
caljon88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
The best way to adjust any chain on a motorcycle is with the rear sprocket paralell to the countershaft sprocket also known as the tightest point. I usually will adjust the chain one time with the suspension disconnected during routine service with the bike on a jack. This allows me to find the absolute tightest point at which to leave some slack. Then I reassemble the suspension and record my free slack at this adjustment and write it in my service manual for future reference.
Thanks. :)
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:00 PM   #9735
fetid_swamp
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how good is that....

more pics and details. more pics & details.

Quote:
For starters, the tank is the SAFARI 28lt. The rest I built myself.

I started by scratching my head a lot. Sitting in the shed looking at the bike. Scratching my head a few more times. Trying to find easy ways of doing what I wanted to do..... Then thought "Stuff it. I'll just make one"

I started by building the nav tower (once again design takes ages- and several designs). Then I built a rough template out of some tin that I had lying around. Played around with the fiberglass over several days (I did the initial casting on the bike), and ended up with what you see.



I don't like the white as much as I thought I would; so it's now been changed.
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