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Old 08-02-2011, 04:50 AM   #9871
Naq
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Philly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MClancy84 View Post
I am going to be attempting the 3x3 Jetting mod this weekend. I have ordered the JD jet kit through TT, is there anything else i will be needing other than what comes in the kit? It is going on a 07 DRZ400S. Any tips would be much appreciated.
I think the JD kit from TT includes the new bowl screws. Figure out which main jet and needle clip you're going to use before starting.

+1 to loosening the subframe. Remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom 2 to allow it to pivot for a little extra room.

I removed the air filter and duct taped the intake closed to keep the baddies out. Remove the snorkel, make a 3"x3" cardboard template and transfer it to the top of the airbox with sharpie (I like the silver for garage work ) Clamp a razor in some vice grips and heat it with a torch. SLOWLY cut out the opening with a sawing motion reheating as necessary. Use the blade to clean up the edges for a perfect 3x3 square. Vacuum out the airbox.

If you're not an expert, remove the carb and take it to a well lit clean area (not the garage floor like I did). Rotate it while it is still attached to the rubber boots to get to the throttle cables and do the same when reinstalling. I always hate that part. Disassemble it in a shallow pan to keep the pieces together. Don't let the spring on the needle holder go flying. If you replace the idle screw with an extended one keep track of the microscopic washer and o-ring on the end and don't let that spring go flying. Clean and blow out all the passages while you're in there. Check the float height and reassemble. Set the idle mixture and idle air screw using one of the documented methods.

Wheelie out of the garage and into the street cheered on by your buddies who have been drinking beer in your driveway under the pretense of helping.
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:20 AM   #9872
nikolic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicomama View Post
Hey Guys,

I've had the Baja Designs Sol Tek 8" race light with halogen on my DRZ for a couple of years now, and just trashed it on my crash in LA traffic 6 weeks ago. I'm looking to upgrade to an HID. Can the DRZ stator handle it?

Thanks mucho,
Nicole

HID should be 35W, so I don't see why not! Don't know whats the power of the original bulb, but I think it's the same or higher! Sorry to hear about the crash... Always loved the way your DRZ looked like.
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:50 AM   #9873
VTSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteer View Post
STRONGLY recommend that you get replacement screws for the float bowl. The stock ones are soft & almost certainly will be buggered after removal. Can't remember if I got 'em from TT or from JD directly...
I've read that the bowl screws always get mangled because they're JIS, not phillips screws. They're a special type of Japanese scew that can be identified by a little dimple on the head. I'm sure they're less likely to strip if you use the correct driver, but they're a little hard to find outside of Japan.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:28 AM   #9874
LittleRedToyota
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteer View Post
STRONGLY recommend that you get replacement screws for the float bowl. The stock ones are soft & almost certainly will be buggered after removal. Can't remember if I got 'em from TT or from JD directly...
the JD kit comes with them. or at least mine did. (the kit was the JD005...ordered directly from JD. they have allen wrench heads instead of the phillips--or JIS--or whatever they are; look like phillips--heads.)
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:15 AM   #9875
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicomama View Post
Hey Guys,

I've had the Baja Designs Sol Tek 8" race light with halogen on my DRZ for a couple of years now, and just trashed it on my crash in LA traffic 6 weeks ago. I'm looking to upgrade to an HID. Can the DRZ stator handle it?

Thanks mucho,
Nicole

I am no expert on HID lighting by any means, however I would go with the Trailtech unit over the baja unit just for the slimmer profile. The HID draws less than the Halogen unit you are currently running. I am not familiar with the wiring specifics though. Someone more familiar with HID will need to chime in here. Linky here...
http://trailtech.net/8in_race_lights.html
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:45 PM   #9876
nicomama
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Nicole's DRZ and 8" race light

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikolic View Post
HID should be 35W, so I don't see why not! Don't know whats the power of the original bulb, but I think it's the same or higher! Sorry to hear about the crash... Always loved the way your DRZ looked like.
Nikolic,

Thanks so much for the reply. Thank you for the compliment. Getting that baby right back out on the road. You are in Serbia? Can you find me on Facebook as Nicole Stavro Espinosa. It'd be fun to be friends, and to all others who want to connect.

My best,
Nicole
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:47 PM   #9877
JustAdam
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New to me, just picked it up 2 days ago .......



Is there any chance someone can PM me the list of "Have to do mods" so I dont have to look through over 600 pages?!

Took my new ride out for a little ride today, and OMG gotta say I have a new love in my life :)
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:16 PM   #9878
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I am running a pair of Hella projectors on my Z. The stock bike has sufficient output for a pair of 35W ballasts/capsules. 100W total is doable with a stock alternator, but an alternator upgrade is preferred. A single 35W or 50W is certainly no problem.

The so called free power mod in the TT FAQ is good idea if you haven't done it already. I'd also recommend installing a headlight switch so that the lights are not coming up on the key before the engine is started... and a voltmeter should be a standard mod for these bikes.
The trailtech units have the switch built in the housing on the Baja style lights.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:09 PM   #9879
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTSteve View Post
I've read that the bowl screws always get mangled because they're JIS, not phillips screws. They're a special type of Japanese scew that can be identified by a little dimple on the head. I'm sure they're less likely to strip if you use the correct driver, but they're a little hard to find outside of Japan.
I did a lot of research on JIS spec screwdrivers & these are the best that I have found - Vessel

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tool...-products.html

None better. Period.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:15 PM   #9880
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAdam View Post
New to me, just picked it up 2 days ago .......



Is there any chance someone can PM me the list of "Have to do mods" so I dont have to look through over 600 pages?!

Took my new ride out for a little ride today, and OMG gotta say I have a new love in my life :)
PM incoming...... Nice bike
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:46 PM   #9881
LittleRedToyota
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAdam View Post
Is there any chance someone can PM me the list of "Have to do mods" so I dont have to look through over 600 pages?!
imho, the only real "have to do" mods are, given that you are riding off road, armoring it up:

1. a real skid plate. the water pump and other critical parts are exposed as is. a good skid plate will protect them.

2. case savers. these are covers you glue on the stator and clutch covers. the covers are made of relatively fragile aluminum. they need to be protected from having the brake lever or shifter pushed into them. also, there is a little sharp edge/small hook on the back of the shifter. take the shifter off and round off the edge with a file.

3. radiator guards. the radiators cost $300 a piece and are not well protected as is. they need aftermarket impact protection. the unabiker version is very popular and has served me well.

4. aluminum handguards (with or without the plastic part). these save your hands and levers from trees and your levers from being broken when you drop the bike.

you should also do all the "loctite fixes". there is a write-up over on thumpertalk about them. if you search this thread for "loctite fix", i'm sure you will find all you need to know as well.

another popular mod but not a must-do, called the 3x3 mod, is to pull the snorkle (in the S model you then also cut a 3x3 hole in the top of the airbox, but on your e-model the hole is already 3x3 so you just pull the snorkel. and then rejet the carb to match. this improves throttle response and smooths out the powerband). doing this made a big difference on my S model. i don't have any experience with the effects on an E model...they have different carbs, so...
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:01 AM   #9882
scruffysteve
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Am new to this thread and would appreciate advice on mod's for my DRZ400S for a planned trip to Morrocco from UK.

I currently have an 18 litre IMS fuel tank but cannot see how the fuel sitting forward of, and below, the fuel tap is going to reach the carb! Anyone have experience of this type of problem? Without some sort of fuel pump it looks like the DRZ with the Safari tank a little further up this thread, would have the same problem.

Is it worthwhile fitting a lower front mudguard to increase the exposed frontal area of the rad's for cooling efficiency (I am anticipating heat!).

And finally, is it worth lowering the gearing from stock - I think not, to help with fuel economy, but more experienced persons than me may know different.

Thanks in anticipation of your help.

Regards, Steve.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:14 AM   #9883
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffysteve View Post
Is it worthwhile fitting a lower front mudguard to increase the exposed frontal area of the rad's for cooling efficiency (I am anticipating heat!).
I've never heard of anyone documenting that cooling is increased with a lower fender. Might help, but then again, aero is unpredictable, so might not.

If you have the S model with the cooling fan, I doubt you're going to have any cooling issues.

Quote:
And finally, is it worth lowering the gearing from stock - I think not, to help with fuel economy, but more experienced persons than me may know different.
Optimal gearing is entirely terrain dependent. The stock S gearing is a compromise between slow-speed trails and acceptable RPM on the highway. For most, it is probably the best compromise. Morroco doesn't sound to me like an area likely to need lower gearing, but I really don't know what you're planning on doing with the bike.

- Mark
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Old 08-03-2011, 04:02 AM   #9884
chriso
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Location: Katherine NT ,Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAdam View Post
New to me, just picked it up 2 days ago .......



Is there any chance someone can PM me the list of "Have to do mods" so I dont have to look through over 600 pages?!

Took my new ride out for a little ride today, and OMG gotta say I have a new love in my life :)

kickstart!!!
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Old 08-03-2011, 04:22 AM   #9885
Gadget678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffysteve View Post
I currently have an 18 litre IMS fuel tank but cannot see how the fuel sitting forward of, and below, the fuel tap is going to reach the carb! Anyone have experience of this type of problem? Without some sort of fuel pump it looks like the DRZ with the Safari tank a little further up this thread, would have the same problem.
I had the same thought when I bought the Safari tanks. When you're just cruising on the road, you probably will get pockets of fuel in the 'wings' of the tank. But if the bike is moving around/offroad, I've found that they empty out & the fuel goes to the tap.
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