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Old 09-08-2011, 12:57 PM   #10441
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
I know this has surely been discussed and I tried the search function. What's the best way to raise the rear wheel to do chain cleaning and lubing? I have a pit bull for my ZRX and my GS has a center stand. I have a hydrallic lift but it seems to be too unstable for use under the skid plate of the DRZ. Thanks.
This is more like an outdoors tool i am sure a lot of ridez have lift/lifts in their garage.
On my DRZ400 I usually attach it to my front fork (special set up for quick removal).
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:01 PM   #10442
tahoe_sasquatch
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Thanks Plane Dr!

I took the muffler off (at first I though it's bent and that's why it doesn't fit - then I realized it must be from E model). There was no additional seal or anything unusual about muffler/header connection - it fits like a glove there... Even the metal heat shield (which screws to both) fits perfectly... Strange... the bike is low millage and doesn't even have 3x3 mod yet... I know it's been on the side (dent in a tank / bent handlebar and probably muffler too was a victim of this too...) - I wonder what else I am going to find out... I am kinda enjoying it though... the bike runs great so this small issues just allow me to learn more about DRZs in general :)

Thanks for advice on the valves... I will keep an eye on them...
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:01 PM   #10443
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
I know this has surely been discussed and I tried the search function. What's the best way to raise the rear wheel to do chain cleaning and lubing? I have a pit bull for my ZRX and my GS has a center stand. I have a hydrallic lift but it seems to be too unstable for use under the skid plate of the DRZ.
If all you're doing is spinning the wheel to clean/lube the chain, tipping it up on the sidestand and front wheel works well, but you need a helper if you want to hold it there while doing the chain. I've never tried wedging a board to hold the bike in this position, but it sounds like a good idea. I'm not sure I would ever trust it enough to change a tire by myself though - there are a lot of things that I'll do in an emergency, but doing them routinely just carries too much risk of injury.

If you're young/fit, hauling it up onto the top of a milk crate (like a MX bike) with muscle is possible, but I stopped being able to do this comfortably right around age 55.

The platform lifts that go under the frame rails are great (fashioning a wood shim jig to level the frame rails if they're not already so is a good idea), but they're not useful on bikes that don't have bottom frame rails. For just chain cleaning, that's a lot of hardware to have in your garage.

- Mark

markjenn screwed with this post 09-08-2011 at 01:07 PM
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:47 PM   #10444
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Is anybody running without the chain guard on the swingarm? I'm running a 49 tooth on the back and decided take the guard off today. Will I have any problems running it like that?
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:01 PM   #10445
Gadget678
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Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
Is anybody running without the chain guard on the swingarm? I'm running a 49 tooth on the back and decided take the guard off today. Will I have any problems running it like that?
One of the first things I took off. ... Too much fiddling to change your wheel with it on. It's never been an issue, and never been questioned by the local constabulary.

I have seen (on ebay I think) SM chain guards that are like sharks fins- just sit beside the chain & sprocket.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:07 PM   #10446
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Originally Posted by Gadget678 View Post
One of the first things I took off. ... Too much fiddling to change your wheel with it on. It's never been an issue, and never been questioned by the local constabulary.

I have seen (on ebay I think) SM chain guards that are like sharks fins- just sit beside the chain & sprocket.
I'm talking about part # 61342-36E30. Part #20 on the diagram. The guide that runs below the swingarm right in front of the rear sprocket.

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Old 09-08-2011, 02:07 PM   #10447
LittleRedToyota
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no chain guard on mine either. no problems.

EDIT: i do, however, still have the chain guide. don't think i would want to take that off.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:28 PM   #10448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
I'm talking about part # 61342-36E30. Part #20 on the diagram. The guide that runs below the swingarm right in front of the rear sprocket.

As Paul Sr would say thats a bad idear.... That chain guide keeps sticks and rocks from removing your chain.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:15 PM   #10449
Gadget678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
I'm talking about part # 61342-36E30. Part #20 on the diagram. The guide that runs below the swingarm right in front of the rear sprocket.
I thought you were referring to Part 24, the chain guard.
Ditto to what the other guys have said about that one. I've had to replace mine a few times from the pounding it's taken (especially on the Safari)... I'd hate to imagine what would happen to your ride if the chain & sprocket cops a decent hit. There's also a chance that as your chain slackens off that it might just jump off the sprocket- which could be terminal for your chain, sprocket, spokes and swingarm... not to mention what might happen to you while all of that is going on.

You need to keep a guide (my opinion), but you may be able to modify the one you've got to fit better (??grind the insert down a bit), or find an alternative that's a bit deeper.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:52 PM   #10450
ZukiNoomin
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Cheapo Jackstands

Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
I know this has surely been discussed and I tried the search function. What's the best way to raise the rear wheel to do chain cleaning and lubing? I have a pit bull for my ZRX and my GS has a center stand. I have a hydrallic lift but it seems to be too unstable for use under the skid plate of the DRZ. Thanks.
I use El Cheapo (Wally World) jack stands. With the bike on the sidestand, I rock the bike to get the
rear wheel up in the air. I then place jackstand #1 under the rear frame crossmember on the opposite side from the sidestand.
Then I rock the bike up on jackstand #1 and slide jackstand #2 in place with my foot.
This method avoids the skidplate completely.


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Old 09-08-2011, 04:30 PM   #10451
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threadkiller View Post
Is anybody running without the chain guard on the swingarm? I'm running a 49 tooth on the back and decided take the guard off today. Will I have any problems running it like that?
There's some terminology confusion here.

The flimsy plastic cover over the top of the chain (typically called a guard - #24 in the diagram) is largely cosmetic and designed to reduce chain lube fling and to avoid your pants leg getting dirty by brushing up against the chain. (It might have a slight safety angle too if you are dangling body parts around these regions.) If are wearing good riding gear without loose ends and don't mind slightly more mess, remove it if you want.

The more rugged plastic piece that wraps around the swingarm pivot (typically called a guide - #16 in the diagram) is functional rather than cosmetic and is critical to avoid the chain sawing away at your expensive swingarm. It also helps the chain to track more truly onto the countershaft. Dirt bikes have long swingarms, relatively loose chains, and lots of suspension travel, so you need a lot of slack in the chain. If you don't have this guide, this slack will, quite literally, eat through your swingarm over time. Don't remove it!

- Mark
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:07 PM   #10452
bobbed06
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I use a pedal type alloy lift for mine
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:52 PM   #10453
oclv454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
I am not sure how the bike would be unstable on a lift if it has a large flat surface under it.
Maybe you are being a little paranoid.
Yup, paranoid. My little hydraulic lift has a pedestal on top of it the size of a fifty cent piece.

I do like your idea of the bar stool, and the other thoughts here. Thanks!!
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:53 PM   #10454
Pezz_gs
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Anyone have the numbers for the steering head bearings?

Search function wont search this thread

I am rebuilding a 2000 DRZ400e with a LOT of mods.

4mm Stroker Crank, 94mm JE piston Kit, Fluidyne Radiators and a Rekluse and LHRB

Started looking like this, and is now a bare frame

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Old 09-08-2011, 08:10 PM   #10455
yosso
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DRZ400S headlight on a DRZ400E...hi/low issues...

I just completed adding the required lights and switches to a DRZ400E to make it legal for the street, but I'm having problems with the hi/lo switch.

Here is how I wired the 400S control switch - everything else works, horn, turn signals and brake lights.



I pulled the switch apart again, and there is now power going to the "HI" wire when the switch is in the "HI" position. There is power going to the "LO" wire when the switch is in the "LO" and "HI" position. I'm guessing the switch is bad...

I was going to ride to work tomorrow and have it safety inspected during lunch, but I'm not sure if it will pass with the HI/LO switch not working.

Any guesses or is it probably just the switch?

M.
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