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Old 09-12-2011, 06:40 PM   #10501
fasteer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
That might make sense if your wheel were spinning the other direction. The chain guard is largely a legal requirement to minimize the chance of a passenger from sticking their foot into the chain.
chain guard is on top & is what hellsickle is talking about.
chain guide is on bottom & is what bobbed is talking about.

You are both correct
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:11 PM   #10502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteer View Post
chain guard is on top & is what hellsickle is talking about.
chain guide is on bottom & is what bobbed is talking about.

You are both correct

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Old 09-12-2011, 07:52 PM   #10503
Marawder
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DRZ plastics

Does anyone know if the same plastics/front fender will fit on a 2001 dr400 enduro?
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:14 PM   #10504
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OK, so today I decide sore ribs and all to change the oil and springs in my DRZ forks. I already have the plan in place and oil wt and levels picked out. I already have 2 qts of Bel Ray 5wt fork oil, and Race Tech .52 kg springs even though the Race Tech calculator said I needed 54kg springs.

So I notice upon assembly of the first leg that when I did a bench test of the fork leg by cycling it once fully built that the fork is ALOT more noisy. First thing I noticed was that the Race Tech "peened finish" is extremely rough and the second thing is the Race Tech springs are 43.5mm OD VS 42mm of the slick and shiny OEM springs. Hmmmmm

I have noticed many custom bike builders run the springs on a wire wheel or flapper wheel with rouge compound to polish the springs a bit. I never found the need to do this until now. Soooo....

I call Racetech and get a very helpful rep who tells me the 43.5 mm OD is nothing to be concerned about, and the noise I hear from the bench test is normal and a few hundred miles will have them sounding fine.

Well me being the kinda guy who freaks about every detail asks the Tech if I can use a medium wire wheel and polish the springs a bit to expedite this breakin time along with preventing the break in crud from contaminating my new oil. He tells me that it is ok to do this and they will still stand behind the springs as well if I am not happy. Top notch felles at Race Tech

I am concerned that the .52 springs are gonna be too stiff which is odd as the calculator says I need 54, but I am gonna wire wheel them in the morning. Thanks to Chris a fellow ADVer for loaning me a wire wheel. I dunno know but I may end up with some 48 or 50kg springs if these are too stiff. (250lbs without gear)

I also took the opportunity to pick the Techs brain on oil levels and wt selection. he said 5wt at 120mm oil height which was almost identical to what I had selected at 122mm and Bel Ray 5wt fluid so I am ok there.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:18 AM   #10505
Tropic-Of-Canada
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Bluhduh Please tell me its just the nut!!

My bike is stuck two towns over because of this! I checked and tightened it every few hundred Km, and it still happened!! can I bring a nut there and fix it my self, or could this be more serious? it spewed about a litre of oil!
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:52 AM   #10506
luni
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Oil seal grenaded. Same thing happened to me. Easy fix. Don't run it until you get it fixed though.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:36 AM   #10507
chriso
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i did one a few rides back, nice cheap fix, seal cost me $13 and took no time to replace
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:45 AM   #10508
GlennR
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bobbed06,

I don't know much about forks & springs, but I agree with you about not liking to hear new ones making noise. It sounds like the tech guy was saying that they'd eventually "polish themselves"....while eating up your fork tubes.

He sounds like the DRZ engineering team who decided that she could do without a 6th gear, to shave a few bucks off the cost. Or that the stock gas tank is large enough...to get off the dealer's lot!
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:02 AM   #10509
BlakKrauStudios
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I might have a chance to ride on DRZ-400SM from Hampton Roads, VA to Ft. Lauderdale, FL (~950 miles), then hop on another one and ride it back.

What do I need to know?

I've done long trips before on other bikes, but never on a DRZ-400SM. I've ridden a DR650SE, but I'm not sure how much different this will be, outside of being less power, and the seat being less comfortable (650 had a Corbin seat, 400's both have stock seats).

I'm currently unemployed, so really I have nothing but time on my hands. Can this be done? Should I break the trip up into 2 or 3 days one way? Is there anything between here and there that I "MUST" see?
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:25 AM   #10510
luni
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My ass has a 200 mile limit on the stock DRZ seat. No 6th gear makes high speed tiring. That being said it's been done. My personal recommendation is hit the coast and follow it down if that's your thing, Outer Banks makes a great ride with ferries to mix it up. Or follow the appalachians down. Between the Blue Ridge Parkway and other mountain roads it could be a few days of winding mountain roads and throttle twisting goodness. It also puts you in position to hit Deal's Gap and some amazing scenery. As far as NC goes, as long as you stay off the slab the county roads won't disappoint.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:32 AM   #10511
BlakKrauStudios
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luni View Post
My personal recommendation is hit the coast and follow it down if that's your thing, Outer Banks makes a great ride with ferries to mix it up.
I was thinking that. However, after the recent hurricane, I may need to buy a white-leather suit with stars and stripes, and have someone build a small ramp for me.



Are the 400's pretty reliable? Should having a major breakdown be a concern, or should I just prepare for the basic... tubes, patch kit, etc.?
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:38 AM   #10512
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Is this the standard Corbin seat for the DRZ, or is this one custom height?

did you get the gripper section installed? if so, how do you like it now?
what do you think are the advantages/disadvantages of gripper seating?


Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
Here is what the seat looks like. I have a 30" inseam. I can't sit flat footed but I can get the balls of my feet down easily. It's narrow at the front so you can slide up and get your feet down or slide up to stand on the pegs.

I love the seat, BUT I am sending it back this winter to have it dished out a bit because I didn't get a gripper seat cover put on it. I slide forward too easy now.

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Old 09-13-2011, 05:45 AM   #10513
GlennR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASCSurveyor View Post
I might have a chance to ride on DRZ-400SM from Hampton Roads, VA to Ft. Lauderdale, FL (~950 miles), then hop on another one and ride it back.

What do I need to know?

I've done long trips before on other bikes, but never on a DRZ-400SM. I've ridden a DR650SE, but I'm not sure how much different this will be, outside of being less power, and the seat being less comfortable (650 had a Corbin seat, 400's both have stock seats).

I'm currently unemployed, so really I have nothing but time on my hands. Can this be done? Should I break the trip up into 2 or 3 days one way? Is there anything between here and there that I "MUST" see?

Assuming that there isn't much difference between an S and an SM I would recommend taking as many days to do it as you can. The stock seat is the biggest problem to deal with, try getting some sort of cushion at the least. The gas tank is pretty small, your butt will appreciate the pit stops.

If you really have plenty of time I'd ride the coast as much as possible and stop a lot. I-95 will zip you down there, but really wouldn't be much fun. I'd say Charleston, SC is a must see if you haven't been there before. Wilmington, NC too. Jeckle Island, GA is neat with it's old Mansions and history. Savana, GA. too. St. Augustine, FL neat old town (oldest in US, I think) All the Florida beaches.

The NC outer banks are a mess from Irene, I think.

So, if you want to take it slow and be a tourist there is a lot to see.

Btw, what speed can the SM comfortably crusie at? My S sounds like it wants to die at 75 mph, and the front end gets pretty light too. I'm running Dunlop 606 knobbies and stock gearing and know they aren't for the Interstates, and kill my fuel milage. I'm curious about swapping to more street oriented tires (and balancing them) and changing the sprockets a few notches towards "street".

I'm sure the SM is much better, but it's still a small unprotected bike and the wind will wear you out pretty quick on a 10 hour ride.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:35 AM   #10514
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
bobbed06,

I don't know much about forks & springs, but I agree with you about not liking to hear new ones making noise. It sounds like the tech guy was saying that they'd eventually "polish themselves"....while eating up your fork tubes.

He sounds like the DRZ engineering team who decided that she could do without a 6th gear, to shave a few bucks off the cost. Or that the stock gas tank is large enough...to get off the dealer's lot!
Well, i wire wheeled the crap outta the second spring and it still sounds horrible. Not happy here. These Race Tech springs may be Cannon Racecrafts shortly. I am gonna call Cannon and check the meaurements and see if I can get my springs in 42mm NON shot peened. Then I will call race Tech to send these back.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:55 AM   #10515
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
Well, i wire wheeled the crap outta the second spring and it still sounds horrible. Not happy here. These Race Tech springs may be Cannon Racecrafts shortly. I am gonna call Cannon and check the meaurements and see if I can get my springs in 42mm NON shot peened. Then I will call race Tech to send these back.
Well I spoke with Cannon Racecraft and obtained the specs on the DRZ springs and they are very similar in OD to the Race Techs I already have in my possession.

Race Tech Springs OD 43.5mm vs Cannons at 43mm OD
Race Tech Springs Free Length are 508mm vs Cannons at 505mm

BOTH are shot peened finish which I am kinda bummed about as I was hoping to get smooth finish, but the peening finish gives the springs more longevity so I understand the need for that.

I also calculated the spring rates on the Race Tech Calculator for 2 weights. My current 255lb self and 225lbs as once I start riding again I will surely drop right down to that weight like I always do. Even at 225lbs I still need the 52kg springs according to Race Tech. So these race Tech 52kg springs may be what I shake down my setup with.

That fella at Cannon Racecraft is a nice guy and I will give him a shot on my next spring purchase for sure.

I quoted myself does that mean I am talking to myself?
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