the DR200 thread

[GreenRiverRider]

Originally posted by Whitey Jr
Awesome thread!!! I tried to go through the entire thread to see if anyone addressed this already or not, but had to stop after the first 8 pages. I've been looking for a good set of hand guards for my 2006 DR200SE and have been encountering problems. I ended up buying a pair of the Suzuki-brand guards for the DR650, and modifying them, but I'd still prefer to get a set of the complete "wraparound" kind that attach to the end of the bars. Which brings me to another issue...The bar-ends appear to be solid. Is it worth trying to drill, or just break down for a new set of bars altogether? So far all of the OEM guards I've looked at don't have enough clearance for the hand controls. Any ideas??

-Whitey Jr

Whitey,

IMO it's worth it to get a new set of bars. I opted for a set of Moose aluminum bars for my wife's 2003 DR200SE, along with Moose handguards and plastic shields. She says the aluminum bars have less vibration at cruising speed on the DR than the stock steel bars. I find the same to be true on my DRZ. Anyway, the Moose XC bend pretty closely matches the stock bars dimensions on the DR200 and they look pretty cool.



When the DR's brakeline got nicked, I added a Goodridge stainless steel brakeline, too. It looks awesome, and she swears the front brake is a little better now than with the stock rubber one.

[2 Wheels]

Originally Posted by GreenRiverRider

When the DR's brakeline got nicked, I added a Goodridge stainless steel brakeline, too. It looks awesome, and she swears the front brake is a little better now than with the stock rubber one.

I replaced the stock brake line on my DR200 with a braided stainless steel brake line. I can't remember what brand. The aftermarket brake line was a problem. The little clip on the bottom of the left fork didn't hold it tight enough and after going over bumps and rocks for a while, it would feed itself down below the clip that holds it in place. It would rub against the rotor and it was starting to get worn through. I ended up going back to the stock brake line.

Just something to watch out for if you go with an aftermarket brake line.

[norvegicus]

Newb question:

What do you guys think of this DR200 for sale?

http://up.craigslist.org/mcy/442613733.html

[Klay]

Originally Posted by norvegicus

Newb question:

What do you guys think of this DR200 for sale?

http://up.craigslist.org/mcy/442613733.html

Looks good, but it may be worth a couple or three hundred dollars less than what they are asking. If it's amazingly cosmetically perfect, it's worth asking price.

[Python423]

Originally Posted by norvegicus

Newb question:

What do you guys think of this DR200 for sale?

http://up.craigslist.org/mcy/442613733.html

My wife give same money ($2350) for a 2001 model last year. At the time that was book value on one. If we had shopped around a little more we might could have got one few hundred cheaper. They seem to sell (on ebay anyway) few hundred then what kbb.com (blue book value) is.

[tbirdsp]

Hi all,
I just got a '94 DR125SE. Seems it's almost identical to the 200SE.
The suspension could use some help with my bulk (200+). Anybody found better fork springs?
Just imagine your 200 with even less power and you'll see what the 125 is like

[Klay]

I weigh about 195. I just let the suspension squish down. No modifications.

[steve gs]

I checked with Progressive on front springs for the 200 in the past. Even though they had the 200 listed they did not have anything to offer.

Check your rear shock to see if the preload is adjustable, many are set at a midpoint.

Before I set my preload at max I had often ridden 2 up with my daughter with no problems. With riding gear we were probably a 260 lb load.



Keep an eye on your chain slack to make sure you are not zeroing (taught) before full compression regardless of weight. Have helper check slack with full load (rider and gear) and compression.

[tbirdsp]

Thanks for the replies.
Steve, I also always preach for everyone to check their chain slack with ther suspension compressed. I'm convinced most people run their chains too tight - not me. One of the reasons my KLR did did 5300 miles without a chain adjustment when I rode the Continental Divide this summer.
The 125 has a non-O ring 428 chain vs the 520 on the 200. From what I've found the stock gearing is 16/53 (sounds weird but remember 428 sprockets). Previous owner geared it down to 15 front. I might try a 60 rear to get it even lower. I don't need to go fast. This bike does have a 6 speed (is the 200 a 5 speed?).

I have a set of Progressive fork springs for a 250 Ninja that may work. If they are anywhere close to the same length as the stockers I should be able to adjust the rest with spacers. I'll post results if I am successful.

I had a hell of a time getting the shock preload collar to turn, but finally managed it by taking all the weight off the suspension by placing the bike on jack stands.

I cleaned the carb and set the idle mix to 2 turns. I also shimmed the needle up with a couple of washers. It actually still seems a little lean. Might try a larger main. Stock on this bike is 112.5 (same carb as 200 though)

I'm on my way to test her out at the local OHV park

[wickedsprint]

I think I used to be a too tight chain guy. I ran the one on my 650R a hair looser than usual, and it stayed within that range for over 1000 miles of agressive dirt use.

[CARRERASBAJA]

Originally Posted by viverrid

Did any of you put a bash plate on your DR-200?

When we had one, we would have, but had trouble finding one. We then sold the bike so it is merely an academic Q now.

I had to work it in place but it worked. I do not have the oil drain hole lined up so either I have to take thew plate off everytime I change the oil or drill one for it. I used Zip ties on it just in case it loosed up on my baja trip but it still on there pretty tight.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...SkidPlate2.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...0SkidPlate.jpg

[2 Wheels]

Originally Posted by CARRERASBAJA

I had to work it in place but it worked.

Did all the mounting hardware line up or did you have to modify anything on the plate?

[CARRERASBAJA]

Skid plate came with 4 screws and 4 hooked shaped peices that hold on to the frame. I had to work it into place but it went on. Not exactly a perfect fit but I am satisfied with it. It is just bolted on . Its like 85 percent of being perfect. Better than with no Plate , if you asked me.

An example

I had put skid plates on a quad before . That time I just put it in its spot and screwed the part in, plus the oil drain hole was spot on.

On the DR200 with Works Connection RM 125 plate. l It took me a few minutes to put this one on and the oil drain hole is on the wrong side. Other than those two things It is doing its job.

The zip ties were put into place for my own piece of mind for my long trip. It did not need them. When I came back I checked the plate and it was still on there tight and the screws did not loosen up.

[MADDOG355]

Originally Posted by Tom S

Engine is locked up.
Friday night I pull the flywheel cover and some sort of adjustment screw falls out. It is all chewed up & the CAM CHAIN is laying in the bottom of the case below the flywheel. One tooth is busted off the large gear behind the flywheel.

Hoping there is not too much damage & that I don't have too pull the head & jug to replace the chain. And whatever else is screwed up.
Anybody?
No one made any comments about the diaphragm pix I posted.
Damn Suzuki.

Get a shop manual. I have no experence with the 200 (looking to get one for my daughter after the first of the year.) But my guess would be the cam chain has a tensioner that broke or malfunctioned in some way allowing the chain to stack (one link climb another) basicly doubling the chains height. Cousing the chain to interfere with another part cousing the motor to lockup.

I would bet this is the reason for the lockup, And yes it will lock the motor up and make you think the motor is junk.

I had a old Honda CB that had a habit of this due to a issue with too much wear in the bore the tensioner sat in.

[2 Wheels]

Originally Posted by CARRERASBAJA

Skid plate came with 4 screws and 4 hooked shaped peices that hold on to the frame. I had to work it into place but it went on. Not exactly a perfect fit but I am satisfied with it. It is just bolted on . Its like 85 percent of being perfect. Better than with no Plate , if you asked me.

An example

I had put skid plates on a quad before . That time I just put it in its spot and screwed the part in, plus the oil drain hole was spot on.

On the DR200 with Works Connection RM 125 plate. l It took me a few minutes to put this one on and the oil drain hole is on the wrong side. Other than those two things It is doing its job.

The zip ties were put into place for my own piece of mind for my long trip. It did not need them. When I came back I checked the plate and it was still on there tight and the screws did not loosen up.

Thanks for the reply. I cringe every time I hear a rock clunk off the bottom of my DR200. I've done countless internet searches looking for a skid plate for that bike, but no joy.

I managed to find this thread on thumpertalk, but when I PM'd and emailed the guy who posted about the DR125 skid plate, he never answered.

--------------------------

You mentioned you were in Baja during the 1000. Did you post any pics anywhere? If not, could you post a couple here?

You can find some of my Baja pics on page 10 and 11 of this thread and also on dualsport-sd.com.

Once again, thanks for the reply.