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Old 03-28-2010, 01:41 AM   #2356
andreystariy
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: RUS
Oddometer: 3
All greetings from Russia from owners Djebel 200 and Djebel 250
My bike


Earlier to drive YBR 125


Welcome to site http://djebel-club.ru/
We will be very grateful for the help in search manual for DR200


I apologise for bad English. I use online the translator
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:27 PM   #2357
Conman
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
Oddometer: 131
IRC TR8 Battle Rally Tires

I read through the forums and have not seen anyone comment on these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

I am looking for a 80/20 off-road/street DOT tire and like the reviews MT-21 and D606 get but the sizes available seem a little big for the DR200. Seen on this forum people like the IRC GP1 and these appear to be more aggressive.

Will 3.00-21 front and 4.00-18 rear be a good combo for the DR200? Prices are cheaper than the MT21 and D606 as well. Any other tires I should look at?

Thanks,
Con
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:32 PM   #2358
Klay
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 100,816
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreystariy
All greetings from Russia from owners Djebel 200 and Djebel 250
My bike

Hi andre, welcome to advrider.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:33 PM   #2359
ridingleaky
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Sioux Lookout
Oddometer: 14
Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Conman
I read through the forums and have not seen anyone comment on these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

I am looking for a 80/20 off-road/street DOT tire and like the reviews MT-21 and D606 get but the sizes available seem a little big for the DR200. Seen on this forum people like the IRC GP1 and these appear to be more aggressive.

Will 3.00-21 front and 4.00-18 rear be a good combo for the DR200? Prices are cheaper than the MT21 and D606 as well. Any other tires I should look at?

Thanks,
Con
I have Kenda K270's on my bike and find them to be pretty good, cheap and durable.
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:04 PM   #2360
HeReTiK
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Oddometer: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Conman
I read through the forums and have not seen anyone comment on these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

I am looking for a 80/20 off-road/street DOT tire and like the reviews MT-21 and D606 get but the sizes available seem a little big for the DR200. Seen on this forum people like the IRC GP1 and these appear to be more aggressive.

Will 3.00-21 front and 4.00-18 rear be a good combo for the DR200? Prices are cheaper than the MT21 and D606 as well. Any other tires I should look at?

Thanks,
Con
The GP-1's are awesome. I rarely drive off-road and I'm very happy with them. I can lean as far as I want into turns without being concerned. Vibration is low, too.
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:09 PM   #2361
feline
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: northeast PA
Oddometer: 416
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeReTiK
The GP-1's are awesome. I rarely drive off-road and I'm very happy with them. I can lean as far as I want into turns without being concerned. Vibration is low, too.
+1
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:25 PM   #2362
mike1952
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: north of ann arbor michigan
Oddometer: 1,114
I have GP-1 on my DR200 also and they are a good tire. I may plan to put them on my DR650 also.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:30 PM   #2363
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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I've got a set of GP-1s that I'm putting on my DR650 in a month or two. It's an experiment.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:30 PM   #2364
capnkirk13
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So I got a list from the previous owner of things that had been done by a "friend":
  • Took carb apart and cleaned it
  • Replaced pilot jet to a (40) and all rubber gaskets
  • Added a plastic "shim" washer to the main needle to richen it up
  • Cleaned gas tank with tank cleaner...scrubbed like hell...hope it's all clean
There's more but not to do with motor. Seems like it sat for awhile and they were having troubles with bad gas etc. Anyways, armed with that info, does anyone have any comments/suggestions pertaining to my starting issue as stated in earlier post?

Quote:
Originally Posted by capnkirk13
About the ride: Clean bike that one of the previous owners layed over on a rock putting a small dent in the tank and taking out a mirror that I found out, after ordering DR200 mirror, had been replaced with smaller "Enduro" mirrors. Previous owner also did airbox mod...haven't checked the jets to see if they are stock or not. Exhaust looks stock. Bike is coldblooded like everyone here says but I wonder if having to start it at least 6-10 times is normal. On average it's been 50ish+ when I've rode. Normal scenario is pull bike out in sun->key on, switch on, full choke->start->bike runs for a few seconds->quick flick of the throttle(if not bike won't start)->start->bike runs for a few seconds->repeat and the bike runs a little longer each time until a can step away for a few minutes. Any throttle and it'll die. After a few minutes set to partial choke and let sit for another 5 minutes as I'm suiting up. Then choke off and depending on temp I'll get some cold-blooded behavior as I take off but after it warms up all is good. Except for an inconsistent acceleration at the upper end of the rpm's when I open it up which, according to posts, is more than likely dirty jet/carb.
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:40 PM   #2365
Conman
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
Oddometer: 131
Quote:
Originally Posted by Conman
I read through the forums and have not seen anyone comment on these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

I am looking for a 80/20 off-road/street DOT tire and like the reviews MT-21 and D606 get but the sizes available seem a little big for the DR200. Seen on this forum people like the IRC GP1 and these appear to be more aggressive.

Will 3.00-21 front and 4.00-18 rear be a good combo for the DR200? Prices are cheaper than the MT21 and D606 as well. Any other tires I should look at?

Thanks,
Con
Thanks for the suggestions on the IRC GP1 and Kenda 270 but looking for a more aggressive off-road tire that is DOT. I found on another forum someone with the D606 front and rear but the tire size was a pretty big jump from OEM: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/sh...3&postcount=40

I'm doing more research on the TR8.

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:40 AM   #2366
ebrabaek
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
Oddometer: 4,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by capnkirk13
So I got a list from the previous owner of things that had been done by a "friend":
  • Took carb apart and cleaned it
  • Replaced pilot jet to a (40) and all rubber gaskets
  • Added a plastic "shim" washer to the main needle to richen it up
  • Cleaned gas tank with tank cleaner...scrubbed like hell...hope it's all clean
There's more but not to do with motor. Seems like it sat for awhile and they were having troubles with bad gas etc. Anyways, armed with that info, does anyone have any comments/suggestions pertaining to my starting issue as stated in earlier post?
At this point I would recomend to re-jet with a Kientech jet kit. The shimming of the stock needle is not a solid solution. The taper on that needle is designed for one position. Some have raised it by using the spacer, but Jesse has it right with the new taper, so when you are have`ing trouble....better to re-jet correctly. What altitude are you at????
You didn`t mention this....but with the "enriching" of the carb you should have opened/cut the airbox door as well... Other why no need for the re-jet.

Erling
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:35 AM   #2367
mike1952
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: north of ann arbor michigan
Oddometer: 1,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridingleaky
I have Kenda K270's on my bike and find them to be pretty good, cheap and durable.

went with IRC GP-1s and am happy enough to maybe them on my DR650
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:54 AM   #2368
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
I've got a set of GP-1s that I'm putting on my DR650 in a month or two. It's an experiment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1952
went with IRC GP-1s and am happy enough to maybe them on my DR650
I've been running them on my DR650 since last summer and love them, I actually have confidence in the dirt now. And I haven't lost the front yet, which was almost a forgone conclusion with the OEM TrailWings. I have a set ready to spoon onto Jodie's DR200 this spring. Highly recommended.
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:08 AM   #2369
MX_Jason
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Joined: Mar 2010
Oddometer: 12
1985 Dr200

I recently picked up a 1985 DR 200 and I'm new to suzuki but I ove into the carb issues before I even read this forum. and I have in its ENTIRETY!! So I cleaned up the carb inside and out and I have the #40 pilot in it allready and the main is a #125. The air filter was totally rotten so i made a temp one out of a big wash sponge but I have 2 new ones on order.
The bike is terribly cold blooded and runs lean till it's very hot and will not idle at all till it's been ridden for at least 5 minutes. The choke causes the bike to idle really fast .The fuel screw is turned out ALL the way. 3 more turns and it would fall out. I have checked for air leaks with wd 40 and couldn't find any but I'm thinking my temp filter is causing some of these problems so I'm not getting to worried till I try a new filter. My needle doesn't have that much taper but has more than the one I saw in a previous post and it has 5 clip positions. I lowered the clip to the bottom position but havent tested it past 1/4 throttle at speed.
When I first got the bike it had a really erratic idle even when hot and would stall out. It had a really bad hanging idle as well which was mostly corrected by backing the fuel screw all the way out .

This seems kind of extreme to me to require the fuel screw to be turned all the way out but like I said its hard to tell without the proper filter. I'd also like to mention that I'm doing all this tuning between 0 and 10 degrees C so I'm sure that's also affecting the mixture. I'm running with the air filter cover off as well but will this affect the pilot circuit and cause it to lean out?

The bike has good power throughout the range 1st 2nd and 3rd are quite torquey 4th and 5th leave alot to be desired but what can I expect with a bike this size and my size of 300 lbs lol Good thing I'm used to small under powered bikes (I started out on a honda 70cc scooter)

I havent had the bike over 100 km/h but the previous owners said it does 120 km/h and I believe it because at 100 km/h it had alot left. I'm using stock 15/45 Sprocks and I have new sprocks and an O-ring chain on the way

I'm thinking of upping the pilot to #45 which is higher than I've seen anyone use on here and the main to 132.5 which is the jet the new keintech mod comes with I think. In the meantime I think I'll put the air filter cover back on and see if that helps
I'm also going to grind down the weld on the inside of the headpipe as I've done this on my 1978 MX 175 as well


I just wanted to post some information that I've gleaned from reading this entire thread to help any new people and maybe save them some time in getting their questions answered without having to read all the way through allthough it was a very good read and recommend it

The intake and exhaust valve clearance specification is between .08mm to .13mm for both the intake and exhaust valve.
0.08 mm = 0.003149 "
0.13 mm = 0.005118 "
adjust to middle tolerance or 0.004

main jet
stock 125
keintech 127.5 - 132.5 with airbox cover completely removed...mention of 137.5 in pumper carb?

pilot jet
stock 35
keintech 40
move needle clip down 1 or 1.5 mil with old needle but new needle from keintech should be run in 4th position

grind down head pipe weld for less exhaust restriction

pumper carb from drz 250

windshield
Slipstreamer SpitFIRE S-06 CLR 7/8" handlebar size.
Givi A603

tires
IRC GP-110s
front 3.00
rear 4.10

The rear axle nut is 47 ft-lbs, the bolts that hold the rear sprocket on are 19.5 ft-lbs. Use thread-locking compound for the sprocket bolts. Front sprocket bolt is 18 ft-lbs, and use thread-locking compound.
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:29 PM   #2370
ebrabaek
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
Oddometer: 4,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by MX_Jason
I recently picked up a 1985 DR 200 and I'm new to suzuki but I ove into the carb issues before I even read this forum. and I have in its ENTIRETY!! So I cleaned up the carb inside and out and I have the #40 pilot in it allready and the main is a #125. The air filter was totally rotten so i made a temp one out of a big wash sponge but I have 2 new ones on order.
The bike is terribly cold blooded and runs lean till it's very hot and will not idle at all till it's been ridden for at least 5 minutes. The choke causes the bike to idle really fast .The fuel screw is turned out ALL the way. 3 more turns and it would fall out. I have checked for air leaks with wd 40 and couldn't find any but I'm thinking my temp filter is causing some of these problems so I'm not getting to worried till I try a new filter. My needle doesn't have that much taper but has more than the one I saw in a previous post and it has 5 clip positions. I lowered the clip to the bottom position but havent tested it past 1/4 throttle at speed.
When I first got the bike it had a really erratic idle even when hot and would stall out. It had a really bad hanging idle as well which was mostly corrected by backing the fuel screw all the way out .

This seems kind of extreme to me to require the fuel screw to be turned all the way out but like I said its hard to tell without the proper filter. I'd also like to mention that I'm doing all this tuning between 0 and 10 degrees C so I'm sure that's also affecting the mixture. I'm running with the air filter cover off as well but will this affect the pilot circuit and cause it to lean out?

The bike has good power throughout the range 1st 2nd and 3rd are quite torquey 4th and 5th leave alot to be desired but what can I expect with a bike this size and my size of 300 lbs lol Good thing I'm used to small under powered bikes (I started out on a honda 70cc scooter)

I havent had the bike over 100 km/h but the previous owners said it does 120 km/h and I believe it because at 100 km/h it had alot left. I'm using stock 15/45 Sprocks and I have new sprocks and an O-ring chain on the way

I'm thinking of upping the pilot to #45 which is higher than I've seen anyone use on here and the main to 132.5 which is the jet the new keintech mod comes with I think. In the meantime I think I'll put the air filter cover back on and see if that helps
I'm also going to grind down the weld on the inside of the headpipe as I've done this on my 1978 MX 175 as well


I just wanted to post some information that I've gleaned from reading this entire thread to help any new people and maybe save them some time in getting their questions answered without having to read all the way through allthough it was a very good read and recommend it

The intake and exhaust valve clearance specification is between .08mm to .13mm for both the intake and exhaust valve.
0.08 mm = 0.003149 "
0.13 mm = 0.005118 "
adjust to middle tolerance or 0.004

main jet
stock 125
keintech 127.5 - 132.5 with airbox cover completely removed...mention of 137.5 in pumper carb?

pilot jet
stock 35
keintech 40
move needle clip down 1 or 1.5 mil with old needle but new needle from keintech should be run in 4th position

grind down head pipe weld for less exhaust restriction

pumper carb from drz 250

windshield
Slipstreamer SpitFIRE S-06 CLR 7/8" handlebar size.
Givi A603

tires
IRC GP-110s
front 3.00
rear 4.10

The rear axle nut is 47 ft-lbs, the bolts that hold the rear sprocket on are 19.5 ft-lbs. Use thread-locking compound for the sprocket bolts. Front sprocket bolt is 18 ft-lbs, and use thread-locking compound.
What altitude are you at.?.... The kientech jet kit`s main works best below 3000 feet.... Above 4000 you should retain the stock MJ. Make sure you put the little spacer correctly on top of the needle.....not below it....
4`th clip should work for all altitudes with this carb. The fact you have to run the fuel screw out that far indicates that your pilot jet is either plugged or too small. The fuel screw and pilot jet sort of shares the 0-1/4 throttle position....They overlap each other a little, but but having the fuel screw out that far....it`s not getting enough fuel through the PJ circuit. The high idle will substantiate that as well. The fuel screw should be no more than 2 1/2 turns out. If you need more....go one up on the PJ. That said... 95% of these symptoms ....( assuming all is assembled correct in the carb)....is because of a plugged PJ. The orfice is so small....Just a little bigger than a human hair....that it plugs up so easy. Many just replace it..... If it`s plugged really bad it`s impossible to blow it out with compressed air....


Erling
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