the DR200 thread

[Dagofast]

Originally Posted by spower

Long story short....

Bike would not start, fuel going into airbox
Took carb out, took to shop and had it cleaned
Put carb back in bike, bike now starts but
runs like crap! There is like no power, couldn't even ride down the street

SO......not cleaned right? Or what else?

Thanks for your help!!!

Its hard to say if your carb was cleaned correctly, but one thing I have found on this carb when the air box kept flooding is that after repeatedly cleaning the float needle and seat to no avail, is that the seat on this model of carb (Mikuni?) has a removable seat that does not screw in. It pushes in and has an o-ring that seals the O.D. and a small phillips head screw that holds a flange on the seat in place. I found that little o-ring had shriveled up and fuel was leaking past it and flooding the air box. Easy fix, once I figured it out!

[Lukon]

Originally Posted by Andyinhilo

6500 miles is not unusual. Pads are cheap and easy to replace.

I paid $30 for new pads at the local shop, which doesn't seem all that cheap to me. Seems they ought to be about $12 - where do you get yours, and how much do you pay?

They were easy to replace, as you say

[Lukon]

Originally Posted by Ladybug0048

My '07 has 12,000 miles and no problem with the brake pads but my clutch just went out. (After the 1st day of riding in Moab )

I'm guessing you ride off road much more than I, so it makes sense that you would work the clutch and rear brake more than I, while I primarily use the front brake to stop on pavement. I'll probably wear the clutch more when I go to taller gearing via a smaller rear sprocket. I'm trying to keep my operating costs as low as possible.

I used to take my Jeep to Moab - good times. I suspect the little DR is even more fun. Sorry to hear about your clutch - hope you get it fixed in time to enjoy Moab...

[Lukon]

I got a new tank bag for the bike - primarily to lay on for the trip to San Diego on the 5 fwy. I stuff it with pillows. I think it's a Cargo brand and has a clear map pocket sized for my iPad

I got a 12v accessory socket at Pep Boys for $3.99 and installed it with a zip tie to the frame under the seat/tank area, so I can charge the phone and iPad on the road. Unfortunately, the socket doesn't have a rubber stopper to plug the opening, so it isn't really weatherproof. I'll have to find something to cover/plug/seal it. It also doesn't have an online fuse - hey, it was under $4 bucks!

[redsoldier]

I have an '06 that is having idling problems and running terrible when cold (worse than what I think should be normal even for this bike).

If I start it and just leave it there, it will usually cut off. If I don't choke it for more than 5-10 minutes, it will stall at a red light when I stop or try and take off again. After it really warms up it runs fine. However, I need to make short trips on it and I generally don't have time to choke it for 10 minutes. It also makes an odd click when I turn it off (not sure if that's normal). I'm in Georgia right now at just about sea level and the temperature is usually around 95/70.

I bought it used this summer with about 500 miles on it and since then I've put maybe another 300 more on. I suspect that it had been sitting around for the last 3 years as the last inspection sticker on it is from '07. I laid it down the first time I was on it at a very low speed coming off a stop sign so that may have knocked something out of order?

I have changed the oil, run some seafoam through it, and the air cleaner looks almost new. I've also tried various idle speeds but wherever it's at it doesn't idle consistently.

I was working on it in a parking lot and someone walking by said it didn't sound like a carb problem but something needing adjusted with the intake or exhaust (he was an international student so he didn't speak English very well). The dealer I called said it sounded like it needed a "valve adjustment and full service." He obviously also said he would need to see it in person but I was weary that he jumped to such a conclusion over the phone.

Does anyone have any advice before I take it in to the dealer and he takes all my money?

I'm also considering the Kientech mods but I don't want to throw the improper fix over the problem until I'm sure.

Thanks!

[Klay]

It could be that the valves are badly out of adjustment, but I would focus mainly on cleaning the carb. It's very likely just jets plugged or partially plugged. Seafoam sometimes helps, and sometimes it just flushes the varnish from gas tank into the carb and plugs it up worse. Nothing works as well as taking the jets out and cleaning them. A Kientech kit helps, too, because you're replacing jets with that.

You could very easily do this stuff yourself.

[Twodog35120]

I'm john, live in Birmingham AL...I've been lurking for a few months now. I bought a used DR200 to try out a little trial/dual sport riding. The last time I did any trail or offroad riding was many years ago on enduros.

The engine is knocking. It sounds like it's coming from the top. I've adjusted the valves several times and tried the stethoscope method to isolate the area it's coming from. Interest though, through the stethoscope I can't here the knock. And, the knock doesn't change whether the valves are adjusted loose or tight.

I even replaced the exhaust gaskets.

Also, the bike runs fine and in fact the knocking seems to quiet down just a bit when it's ruinning real hard.

Do I just replace everything on top? What are the chances I have to go deeper - crank, pistons, etc?

Anybody have an idea?

Thanks
twodogmc@yahoo.com

John

[Ladybug0048]

Originally Posted by Lukon

I'm guessing you ride off road much more than I, so it makes sense that you would work the clutch and rear brake more than I, while I primarily use the front brake to stop on pavement. I'll probably wear the clutch more when I go to taller gearing via a smaller rear sprocket. I'm trying to keep my operating costs as low as possible.

I used to take my Jeep to Moab - good times. I suspect the little DR is even more fun. Sorry to hear about your clutch - hope you get it fixed in time to enjoy Moab...

My bike has a lot of pavement riding on it as well as dirt. It's probably about half and half. When in dirt I do find myself feathering the clutch a lot more than I probably should and I'm guessing that's why it went. The thing that baffles me though is I also have an '94 Honda XR100 that I have abused one heck of a lot more in the dirt than the DR200 and it's clutch is still fine. I have no idea of how many miles are on the XR100 but it received a lot of hard use for many years.

When the clutch went out the DR200 was loaded in the pickup and I came home since a fix while there didn't seem possible. I would have had to order parts and by the time they got there and the bike fixed it would be about time to go home anyway. The good news was that I hauled my bike there rather than riding it so I had my pickup with me.

We did ride up to Tusher Tunnel which was nice however the deep sand in spots was challenging for me. We also spotted a number of trails/roads we wanted to check out before the ride was over. I'll do it again another time and will actually get to do some riding.

[NZDrRider]

Originally Posted by spower

Long story short....

Bike would not start, fuel going into airbox
Took carb out, took to shop and had it cleaned
Put carb back in bike, bike now starts but
runs like crap! There is like no power, couldn't even ride down the street

SO......not cleaned right? Or what else?

Thanks for your help!!!

My situation may not match yours, but after I installed the jets from Keintech I had a terrible time getting the bike to run. Fuel was accumulating in the airbox and I could see it blowing back through the carb/filter when the bike was running. After a chat with Jesse we eliminated the jetting change as a culprit. I checked the float levels and set them back to spec as they were slightly out. It was likely that during the cleaning and install I depressed the tang a little allowing them to rise to high thus allowing too much fuel into the bowl.

Cheers from NZ

[HeReTiK]

Originally Posted by Scrappy Fatale

Today was my first day of riding in the MSF course. I've been thinking about buying a DR200 as my first bike, so when the instructors wheeled one ('96, I think) out, I hopped right on it!
I had to use the choke after it had already been warmed up...in the Florida heat. Also, it was nearly impossible to put the bike in neutral with the engine on, but would go perfectly with the ignition off. Are these common problems with DR200s, or could it just be the fact that it's an older bike that's had a hard life?

Is can be difficult but never impossible to put the bike in neutral when running. You will have the most difficulty when the bike is running hot. Be sure keep oil changed on your DR200. This is a common problem with all small engine air cooled bikes. Also as a beginner you will have trouble finding neutral but you just have to pass it a few times before you get it. It will be easier to find neutral when you are still moving. If you are in gear when you come to a complete stop it will be much more difficult on the DR200. I took the MSF course as well. All the small engine bikes were running all day and had the same problem.

Have fun!

[K44rll]

Originally Posted by HeReTiK

Is can be difficult but never impossible to put the bike in neutral when running. You will have the most difficulty when the bike is running hot. Be sure keep oil changed on your DR200. This is a common problem with all small engine air cooled bikes. Also as a beginner you will have trouble finding neutral but you just have to pass it a few times before you get it. It will be easier to find neutral when you are still moving. If you are in gear when you come to a complete stop it will be much more difficult on the DR200. I took the MSF course as well. All the small engine bikes were running all day and had the same problem.

Have fun!

This may or may not be the cause on trouble selecting neutral on the DR200's but it is an issue on the 125cc version of this engine and maybe worth checking....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=351

Karl

[Klay]

Originally Posted by K44rll

This may or may not be the cause on trouble selecting neutral on the DR200's but it is an issue on the 125cc version of this engine and maybe worth checking....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=351

Karl

Both of my DR200s exhibit this notchiness in selecting neutral at times, and I have done 100% of the maintenance, so I know this error is not the cause for my bikes.

Fresh oil reduces the problem. The bikes are also sensitive to maladjustment of clutch lever play. The plates tend to drag a little, and having the clutch lever too sloppy increases difficulty in finding neutral. It's just the way the bike is. I typically slip it into neutral with the bike still rolling.

[redsoldier]

Originally Posted by Klay

It could be that the valves are badly out of adjustment, but I would focus mainly on cleaning the carb. It's very likely just jets plugged or partially plugged. Seafoam sometimes helps, and sometimes it just flushes the varnish from gas tank into the carb and plugs it up worse. Nothing works as well as taking the jets out and cleaning them. A Kientech kit helps, too, because you're replacing jets with that.

You could very easily do this stuff yourself.

Thanks for the advice.

I took the carb about half apart until I ran into a stripped screw. I was able to spray some cleaner down into it though. It seems to be idling much better now. I let it completely cool off and was able to start it without the choke. Still doesn't sound like the GSX-R 1000's that my buddies ride with me on the weekend...but much better!

[Klay]

If you remove the throttle cable and loosen the screws that hold the boots on the carb, you can rotate the carb without removing it so you can get at the float bowl screws. If you take the float bowl off, you have access to all the jets.

The idle screw might have a brass plug covering it up which you'd have to get out. Ask here for advice if you go this route.

[NZDrRider]

Originally Posted by Klay

If you remove the throttle cable and loosen the screws that hold the boots on the carb, you can rotate the carb without removing it so you can get at the float bowl screws. If you take the float bowl off, you have access to all the jets.

The idle screw might have a brass plug covering it up which you'd have to get out. Ask here for advice if you go this route.

Correct. Real easy to loosen and rotate, but very hard to do float height without removing the carb. Not a real mission though so best to take it out and do the whole job once and well, in my opinion.

Cheers from NZ