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Old 06-16-2011, 01:49 PM   #3826
Andyinhilo
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Hilo, Hawaii
Oddometer: 1,676
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepwood View Post
Hello! New DR200 owner here. I love this little bike so far. It's so fun and light and it feels SOOOO good to be back on two wheels. My last bike was a 600RR so this is a little different lol but still it feels good to be back. I can't wait to take a big trip on it for sure. But unfortunately I do need some help.

My 2002 DR200 is having taillight issues. The taillight will only light up when the key is in P and the brake is on. I googled it and found someone on another forum with the same issue but no answer. I'm hoping to get this sorted out because I really hate not having a brake light on a bike.


I hate for my first post to contain a question but I searched and I didn't find anything. Also I hope to get some pics soon!
It may be that there is a bad contact in the key switch. you might try cycling the switch between on and off, and wiggling the key around.
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:21 PM   #3827
Sateev
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Thailand
Oddometer: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepwood View Post
...

My 2002 DR200 is having taillight issues. The taillight will only light up when the key is in P and the brake is on. I googled it and found someone on another forum with the same issue but no answer. I'm hoping to get this sorted out because I really hate not having a brake light on a bike.


...
I'm a bit confused.

You say that your taillight only comes on when the key is in P, and the brake is on, but then you say you "hate not having a brake light..."

Could you be a bit more specific? Is it the brake light, or the taillight?

Do the turn signals work? The indicator lights (neutral, turn, high beam)?

Headlight on?

While anything is possible, a bad ignition switch would give you a LOT more problems than a non-working taillight. And when in the P position, the ONLY thing being powered is the taillight filament, direct from the fused lead of the battery.

More info is needed. It might help to know if the wiring is stock, or has someone 'improved' it? Is it neat, or does it look like a rat's nest?

Given your willingness to approach this methodically, we will certainly find the answer.

Speak!
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:04 PM   #3828
Creepwood
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Joined: Jun 2011
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Thanks for the help but I got it figured out. Apparently the ground on the socket had been at such an extreme angle that over time some of the wires had broke and become disconnected. It was still connected but apparently not by enough that's why I didn't catch it the first time I looked at it. Got it figured out yesssss!!!!!

Also went out on my first long ride today. Me and my GF rode about 80 miles of backroad curves in farm country. The thing performed flawlessly except for it stalled taking off once or twice at really low throttle. Does that mean it is running lean? IIRC some of the posts i've ead on this thread talk about the bike coming lean from the factory so that makes sense.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:48 AM   #3829
kafkamars
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Joined: May 2010
Location: south of freaky
Oddometer: 39
ha, i have re wired my brake light 4 times. i just figure it shakes to much, but i don't really know, my latest fix wuz re soldering it and then rapping it up in electrical tape and that has been the longest fix to date.yay. I defiantly understand not having a brake light tho. f-ing bad, but it'll teach you to watch your mirrors.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:41 AM   #3830
lobsta
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Joined: Dec 2009
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dr paint scheme matches
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:11 PM   #3831
Johnny9finger
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Vermont
Oddometer: 9
Thumb Keintech Carb Mod

Just came back from a 50 mile ride after the Carb Mod, and ohh what a difference! It wont change top end, but has more power and acceleration in all gears and at lower rpm's. Took me one large cup of coffee to do the mod, about an hour and half. Hardest and most frustrating part is refitting the carb to the airbox, just seems like there is never enough clearance. This also required removing the air box lid. Tuning the carb is pretty straight foward simply adjust the new fuel air screw untill you get the highest rpm setting before it starts to drop off, and than adjust the idler screw to its back down to its new setting. Runs better than new, and doesnt require the choke nearly as much.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:34 PM   #3832
Jerico591
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: LP, Bolivia
Oddometer: 7
Cool2 At "La Cumbre"

Easy riding day....
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:47 PM   #3833
Creepwood
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Got 154 miles out of my first tank and put 1.91 gallons back in it.......yessssss. Also about a third of the tank was riding two up and the rest of it was mildly thrashing around town having fun and commuting with it as often as the weather permits. I love this little bike.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:42 AM   #3834
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
Oddometer: 1,843
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dr paint scheme matches
NICE
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:13 PM   #3835
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,499
1500km back roads trip

My wife and I joined 120 other dual sport riders on the BC Big Trailie Ride and had a blast. Here's a few video's...







at the mud section a few of the riders were asking Jodie if she wanted to trade bikes, she laughed and said "No way". She did great and made it all the way through the mud with no drops.
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:28 PM   #3836
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
My wife and I joined 120 other dual sport riders on the BC Big Trailie Ride and had a blast. Here's a few video's...







at the mud section a few of the riders were asking Jodie if she wanted to trade bikes, she laughed and said "No way". She did great and made it all the way through the mud with no drops.
Hey those were nice was that clay , what kinda tires on that bike
what degree incline or flat , mike
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:59 PM   #3837
wardie
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Oddometer: 216
Dr 200 front end swapping

Has anyone done any frame or froint fork modifications to their Dr 200?

I was thinking about a custom frame or maybe a RM fork swap. Just trying to see if there's something a little better for my weight (250). Wardie
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:10 PM   #3838
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Hey those were nice was that clay , what kinda tires on that bike
what degree incline or flat , mike
No clay, just a few inches of slick mud. There were two V-Stroms and another bike and I think they all had tires like tourances etc., definitely not knobbies. Slight incline, first bike lost momentum while the one that dumped was just trying to avoid the pile up.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:52 PM   #3839
tlong2
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Kankakee Illinois
Oddometer: 107
I just built a pretty nice and sturdy rack for this bike. I made it out of black gas pipe and it looks pretty nice. I will put some pics up when its on the bike tomorrow
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:43 PM   #3840
tlong2
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Kankakee Illinois
Oddometer: 107
cheap sturdy rack

Im going on a trip from Chicago area to upstate New York and needed more space on the back of the bike, so I decided to make a rack. The first step was to figure out what sizes of pipe to use to make the rack. I decided to use 1/2 in gas pipe due to many sizes and easy threaded ends. The three long cross bars are 22 in, the forward attachments are about 7 inches( I don't know the final size since they were cut so I didn't have to drill through threads), side spacers between long bars are 4 in, middle front bar is 10 in, and the two side front bars into the T are 5 in. If you go to the hardware store and buy these lengths it should work. Assembly was done by threading the long pieces in as far as I humanly could and then backing them out into the opposite sides T joint. You have to do it this way since the threads are opposite on either side (or use a union in the middle, but it would be ugly and its strong as is and no need for gas tight). Next I drilled out the two flathead pin mounts on the top of the existing passenger handles. Then drilled the rack on the top and on the two forward mounted pipes. The bolts used were stainless M8x1.25 60mm and M6 standard thread 45mm long. I put washers and lock washers in place to help it stay tight. This rack is as sturdy as can be, does not budge at all and has no flex. Rustoleum flat black professional strength enamel is coating it after a bath in acetone, so a strong finish as well. Takes a few hours to make if you had these plans and had the guesswork taken out of it all. Final cost was around 40$ with stainless hardware included. Enjoy
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