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Old 09-03-2011, 06:38 PM   #4171
godwinmt
They call me Crash
 
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Seymour, IN
Oddometer: 510
Original cable, 5200 miles, 6 years old...I'll have to try some of the lube. I think it happened tuesday when I was out on the trails and dumped it on the left side. That's when it started feeling different.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:14 PM   #4172
thesurvivalist
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Oddometer: 526
How often is the clutch cable supposed to be lubricated?

My wife crashed my dr200 today and broke the clutch lever. Where;s the best place to get one from? I've seen them on eBay for $15 but I don't know if there quality parts of Chinese crap.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:19 PM   #4173
Klay
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I typically never lubricate cables. Getting oil in there works for a while, but not in the long run, because the oil captures dust and grit. If I did lubricate cables, I'd look for a teflon spray or some such modern product. Original cables are still going strong on our ten-year-old 200s, if I remember correctly.
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:22 PM   #4174
godwinmt
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Location: Seymour, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesurvivalist View Post
How often is the clutch cable supposed to be lubricated?

My wife crashed my dr200 today and broke the clutch lever. Where;s the best place to get one from? I've seen them on eBay for $15 but I don't know if there quality parts of Chinese crap.

$5 says it broke right at the little corner where it necks down before the pivot :)

Take the handle and go into your local cycle shop...find one that matches and go with it. I've found them as cheap as $3 and as expensive as $15
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #4175
thesurvivalist
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Location: Colorado Springs
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That's exactly where its broke. When fitting the new lever to the clutch cable, are any measuring tools need to get the clutch cable as it was before taking it off? I am thinking is it like a car clutch cable?
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:53 AM   #4176
Conman
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Location: Long Island, New York
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http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=1476



http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=1469

Since I've replaced both the clutch and brake levers, I can vouch for the brake lever from Motion Pro fitting like stock. Clutch I purchased OEM through thumpertalk store before finding these aftermarket ones for a little less.

Con
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:37 AM   #4177
DR BrianO
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Location: Kentucky
Oddometer: 41
Question Drain Tube on Air Filter Box

I just picked up a 1999 DR200SE a few days ago and I have been going through it. The bike has 1400 miles on it and sat for at least a year with untreated gas. I have drained the gas and cleaned the bottom bowl of the carburator (the float was in the stuck open position) the crank case also filled with gas from trying to start it with the stuck open carburator. Also new spark plug was added. Anyways I changed the oil last night and did get it to idle with me holding the Choke out, but as soon as I let it go it would die. I figure I will run some seafoam through it and then work on cleaning the entire carb if the seafoam does not help get the varnish out.

Now to my question, when draining the oil I noticed my airbox has a drain tube, but it had a cap on it so it would not drain. Do you have this or should I pull the cap off and let it drain?

Also any other information or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:20 AM   #4178
Trailrider200
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Location: Exit 10A, RT 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grady Bear View Post
I just picked up a 1999 DR200SE a few days ago and I have been going through it. The bike has 1400 miles on it and sat for at least a year with untreated gas. I have drained the gas and cleaned the bottom bowl of the carburator (the float was in the stuck open position) the crank case also filled with gas from trying to start it with the stuck open carburator. Also new spark plug was added. Anyways I changed the oil last night and did get it to idle with me holding the Choke out, but as soon as I let it go it would die. I figure I will run some seafoam through it and then work on cleaning the entire carb if the seafoam does not help get the varnish out.

Now to my question, when draining the oil I noticed my airbox has a drain tube, but it had a cap on it so it would not drain. Do you have this or should I pull the cap off and let it drain?

Also any other information or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Seafoam is 50% oil. why do u want to put oil into the combustion chamber? there are much better modern formulas out there than the old snake oil religion of seafoam. regain, new STP formula, redline, amsoil and new lucas formula.

check the idle mixture screw. open it up to 3- 3 1/2 turns out. u have to remove the brass plug. My '07 which I brough last yr from a dealer with 500 miles on it would not idle correctly. removed the factory installed plug and the idle mixture screw was in the fully closed position.
the drool tube needs to be drained at least once/month, always replace the cap.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:23 AM   #4179
Klay
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The other thing with seafoam is that often you end up washing varnish from the gas tank into the carb, where it clogs up the jets. Cleaning the carb thoroughly is probably the best route.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:25 AM   #4180
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider200 View Post
the drool tube needs to be drained at least once/month, always replace the cap.
I only check it once every year or two. Don't let the contents of the tube touch your skin...it's carcinogenic.
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:36 PM   #4181
DR BrianO
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Thanks

Thanks for the quick responses, I will stay away from Seafoam. I will proably just break down and clean the carb over the weekend. I was just hoping running something through it would prevent tearing the carb apart.

I will leave the air filter tube on and just check once a month.

I hope to have this bike up and running a couple weeks still need a battery, but other than hopfully I can get out on it.

Thanks.
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:49 PM   #4182
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grady Bear View Post
Thanks for the quick responses, I will stay away from Seafoam. I will proably just break down and clean the carb over the weekend. I was just hoping running something through it would prevent tearing the carb apart.

I will leave the air filter tube on and just check once a month.

I hope to have this bike up and running a couple weeks still need a battery, but other than hopfully I can get out on it.

Thanks.
The carb is so very simple that it's not a big deal. You don't even need to remove it. Just loosen the screws on the boots and rotate it 90 degrees and take the float bowl off. All the jets are right there.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:51 PM   #4183
thesurvivalist
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Location: Colorado Springs
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I just rode my dr200 on the road for the first time. It was an awesome experience. I'm finding it a bit hard choosing the right gear, sometimes too low or too high, though im sure ill get used to shifting with time.

When starting the bike how long should I leave the choke on for?

I'm looking for a set of bark busters that match suzuki yellow. Do any sets have an outer plastic shield and an inner aluminum guard? Any recommendations?
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:29 PM   #4184
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,307
Quote:
Originally Posted by thesurvivalist View Post
I just rode my dr200 on the road for the first time. It was an awesome experience. I'm finding it a bit hard choosing the right gear, sometimes too low or too high, though im sure ill get used to shifting with time.

When starting the bike how long should I leave the choke on for?

I'm looking for a set of bark busters that match suzuki yellow. Do any sets have an outer plastic shield and an inner aluminum guard? Any recommendations?
You should only need the choke for a minute or two. As for bark busters, I'm sure they come in yellow, just search a few sites till you find the ones you want. Try http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/, may as well order a new handlebar and throttle tube as well. The stock bars have weights welded in and are next to impossible to drill out. Way easier to just replace the bars. Suzuki vulcanize the grip onto the throttle tube and you literally have to grind or cut the old grip off, again easier to just replace the throttle tube.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:56 PM   #4185
thesurvivalist
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Location: Colorado Springs
Oddometer: 526
Would you mind posting some links of handlebars and tubes that will work? Are they generic parts or specific to the dr200?
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