the DR200 thread - Page 309

Mustangshelly · 12-13-2011, 02:26 PM

My husband, Jeff, AKA Applejam, reworked a KTM windscreen for my DR200. It's not completely perfect yet, but it looks awesome. I will post a pic when all the finishing touches are complete.

Highaltidude · 12-13-2011, 04:37 PM

I installed Tusk D-Flex hand guards purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV ($55) on my DR200. I thought I post here, because I didn't think it was as hard as some have made it sound..... My bike was the guinea pig as I hope to install a set on my wife’s DR200 later. Doing two bikes also justified the purchase of the drill bits (not cheap).

I prepped by buying the drill bits at Lowes, a 3/16” cobalt, a 3/8” cobalt, and a 3/4” metal bit. I also made up a couple of cardboard circles the same diameter as the grip ends. The compass point used for drawing the circles then acted as the place to punch into the bar ends to start my pilot hole (the 3/16” bit).

(Since I’m not the first to do this, others have found that the solid bar end plugs are only attached at the end of the bar, so you don’t need to drill all the way through them, just cut through the weld on the end)

Left grip: My grips were a little sloppy on the bar end. So I used an X-Acto knife to cut a circle about 3/4” diameter into the end of the grip. This was made easier by the 1/4” air space between the grip end and the bar end. Then I used my cardboard circle to locate the center of the bar end. A spring loaded punch put a mark in the bar end. Then I used the 3/16” bit and drilled in about a half inch. I then used the 3/8” bit and went in about 3/8”. I then switched to the 3/4” bit and drilled in until the bar end plug came loose. This took about five minutes of drilling total. Rather than trying to remove the plug, I just pounded it in until it jammed at the first bend in the bar. This gave me a sealed area for mounting the hand guards. The hand guards I bought have a nut that could fall off if you remove them (allowing for replacement of the plastic pieces after the inevitable scarring against the ground).

Right grip: I first removed the twist throttle. Easy to do by removing the two screws holding the throttle on to the bar. Then I punched the bar end and drilled out the plug the same way I did on the left side. Piece of cake. Then I drilled a hole (I just used the 3/16” bit) in the end of the twist throttle (over on the work bench). I then used a Dremmel and opened up the hole to 3/4”. This was a better way to do this than trying to use the 3/4” bit (I won’t admit to how I know this, but sometimes it’s nice having two bikes to do......). I cleaned up the debris on the inside of the twist throttle and reinstalled.

With both bar end plugs pounded in, and 3/4” holes in the end of both grips, it’s less than a thirty minute job to install the hand guards. I did have to do the following “fine tuning” to get mine to fit. Left side: I had clearance problems around the front brake line. I pulled the line towards the rear of the bike by flipping the top guide bracket. I also used two washers to space the aluminum bar away from the brake line. Right side: I put the brake lever on the grinder to take about 1/8” off the ball end for clearance. You can’t see the grind marks as it’s the side that faces the aluminum bar on the hand guard. My clutch lever has some ground induced custom bending so I don’t know whether a stock clutch lever would also require this clearancing, but I’d expect so.

Chuck

godwinmt · 12-13-2011, 05:01 PM

Nice! When I did my handguards (Acerbis rally pro knockoffs), I drilled in the end of the bar with a 13/64ths bit and ran a tap through it. Instead of using the bolt with the bar end, I just ran a 5/16" countersunk head bolt in to hold the ends on. Worked very slickly!

Klay · 12-13-2011, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by godwinmt

Nice! When I did my handguards (Acerbis rally pro knockoffs), I drilled in the end of the bar with a 13/64ths bit and ran a tap through it. Instead of using the bolt with the bar end, I just ran a 5/16" countersunk head bolt in to hold the ends on. Worked very slickly!

I think I may try that and go back to the original bars.

godwinmt · 12-13-2011, 09:03 PM

It was surprisingly easy. The steel they use in the end has to be like 1020 or something else surprisingly soft.

thesurvivalist · 12-13-2011, 10:39 PM

On page 17 it shows on the diagram to
use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and to use oil on the brake lever holder and clutch cable

Where exactly am I supposed to use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and where do I oil the brake lever holder and clutch cable?

Klay · 12-13-2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thesurvivalist

On page 17 it shows on the diagram to
use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and to use oil on the brake lever holder and clutch cable

Where exactly am I supposed to use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and where do I oil the brake lever holder and clutch cable?

One school of thought says don't lubricate your cables. If you get oil in the cables, it'll just attract dust. But use grease on the pivot point for the clutch and brake levers. Again, these are not critical areas. Slap a bunch of lubricant around.

thesurvivalist · 12-13-2011, 11:08 PM

The pivot point for the clutch cable is that where the clutch mounts to the engine/gearbox?

Where is the pivot point for the brakes?

Klay · 12-13-2011, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thesurvivalist

The pivot point for the clutch cable is that where the clutch mounts to the engine/gearbox?

Where is the pivot point for the brakes?

I was thinking of the pivot points of the levers up on the handlebars. You don't need to lubricate the lever down on the transmission.

thesurvivalist · 12-13-2011, 11:18 PM

Ok excellent, thanks again for the advice.

ben2go · 12-14-2011, 05:08 AM

I use WD-40 to clean the gummy crap out of my cables.Then I use a cheap thin engine oil to lube the cables,if they need it.A cable luber really help with the WD-40 cleaning,and I use the zip bag and rubber/elastic band method to oil the cables.I tried using a graphite based dry lube but I can't seem to get it to go all the way through the cable sheath/housing.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CKEBEPMCMAQ

Cable luber vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG6JO9f0Q6U

Google is screwing with youtubes layout and I can't find the vid that I faved on how to use a zip bag to lube cables.

DR BrianO · 12-14-2011, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by godwinmt

windscreen is from Screensforbikes.com which is based down in australia. He had my screen to me in less than a week! It keeps a lot of the wind off your chest which is nice when it gets cold. Cruising on the highway I typically scoot back and lay down over the tank. The shield does a fantastic job then. I took some decent pics after the installation which they put up on the screensforbikes site here.

I originally ran the Moose Racing side bags, but those were destroyed after I lent them to a friend for his KLR250...he forgot they were on there and when he went to kickstart it, he snagged the lower strap and ripped the straps out of the back of the right bag. Here's a picture with them on it:

The bags on it now are made by saddleman. They're smaller than the moose bags, but I think they're a better design. They do expand out quite a bit which was useful today grocery shopping :)

Thanks for the information, I really like the looks of the bags and windscreen. I rode last night and it was about 40 degrees and misting rain here, not bad but the windscreen would have made it more comfortable.

DR BrianO · 12-14-2011, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klay

I think I may try that and go back to the original bars.

I think this sounds like a good way to attach the guards, you don't happen to have any pictures?

Thanks,

BrianO

bross · 12-14-2011, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go

I use WD-40 to clean the gummy crap out of my cables.Then I use a cheap thin engine oil to lube the cables,if they need it.A cable luber really help with the WD-40 cleaning,and I use the zip bag and rubber/elastic band method to oil the cables.I tried using a graphite based dry lube but I can't seem to get it to go all the way through the cable sheath/housing.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CKEBEPMCMAQ

Cable luber vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG6JO9f0Q6U

Google is screwing with youtubes layout and I can't find the vid that I faved on how to use a zip bag to lube cables.

I use Drislide cable lube, comes with a tiny needle that will fit between the cable and sheath. It's a slow process as if you squeeze too much lube in quickly it just runs out the top. But small squeezes every few seconds and in about 10 minutes I had lube coming out the bottom of the sheath.

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Dri-Slide.../dp/B001F2Y25G

ben2go · 12-14-2011, 12:54 PM

Thanks.I'll have to check that product out.Is it good for cables that spin,such as a tach cable?

12-13-2011, 02:26 PM	#4621
Mustangshelly Adventurer...hardly Joined: Jun 2011 Location: Mt. Hood Oddometer: 294	Windscreen My husband, Jeff, AKA Applejam, reworked a KTM windscreen for my DR200. It's not completely perfect yet, but it looks awesome. I will post a pic when all the finishing touches are complete.

12-13-2011, 04:37 PM	#4622
Highaltidude Adventurer Joined: Nov 2011 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Oddometer: 71	Hand guard installation I installed Tusk D-Flex hand guards purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV ($55) on my DR200. I thought I post here, because I didn't think it was as hard as some have made it sound..... My bike was the guinea pig as I hope to install a set on my wife’s DR200 later. Doing two bikes also justified the purchase of the drill bits (not cheap). I prepped by buying the drill bits at Lowes, a 3/16” cobalt, a 3/8” cobalt, and a 3/4” metal bit. I also made up a couple of cardboard circles the same diameter as the grip ends. The compass point used for drawing the circles then acted as the place to punch into the bar ends to start my pilot hole (the 3/16” bit). (Since I’m not the first to do this, others have found that the solid bar end plugs are only attached at the end of the bar, so you don’t need to drill all the way through them, just cut through the weld on the end) Left grip: My grips were a little sloppy on the bar end. So I used an X-Acto knife to cut a circle about 3/4” diameter into the end of the grip. This was made easier by the 1/4” air space between the grip end and the bar end. Then I used my cardboard circle to locate the center of the bar end. A spring loaded punch put a mark in the bar end. Then I used the 3/16” bit and drilled in about a half inch. I then used the 3/8” bit and went in about 3/8”. I then switched to the 3/4” bit and drilled in until the bar end plug came loose. This took about five minutes of drilling total. Rather than trying to remove the plug, I just pounded it in until it jammed at the first bend in the bar. This gave me a sealed area for mounting the hand guards. The hand guards I bought have a nut that could fall off if you remove them (allowing for replacement of the plastic pieces after the inevitable scarring against the ground). Right grip: I first removed the twist throttle. Easy to do by removing the two screws holding the throttle on to the bar. Then I punched the bar end and drilled out the plug the same way I did on the left side. Piece of cake. Then I drilled a hole (I just used the 3/16” bit) in the end of the twist throttle (over on the work bench). I then used a Dremmel and opened up the hole to 3/4”. This was a better way to do this than trying to use the 3/4” bit (I won’t admit to how I know this, but sometimes it’s nice having two bikes to do......). I cleaned up the debris on the inside of the twist throttle and reinstalled. With both bar end plugs pounded in, and 3/4” holes in the end of both grips, it’s less than a thirty minute job to install the hand guards. I did have to do the following “fine tuning” to get mine to fit. Left side: I had clearance problems around the front brake line. I pulled the line towards the rear of the bike by flipping the top guide bracket. I also used two washers to space the aluminum bar away from the brake line. Right side: I put the brake lever on the grinder to take about 1/8” off the ball end for clearance. You can’t see the grind marks as it’s the side that faces the aluminum bar on the hand guard. My clutch lever has some ground induced custom bending so I don’t know whether a stock clutch lever would also require this clearancing, but I’d expect so. Chuck

12-13-2011, 10:39 PM	#4626
thesurvivalist Backcountry Rider Joined: Aug 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Oddometer: 362	lubrication points On page 17 it shows on the diagram to use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and to use oil on the brake lever holder and clutch cable Where exactly am I supposed to use white lithium grease on the throttle cable and where do I oil the brake lever holder and clutch cable?

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12-13-2011, 05:01 PM	#4623
godwinmt They call me Crash Joined: Jul 2011 Location: Columbus, IN Oddometer: 340	Nice! When I did my handguards (Acerbis rally pro knockoffs), I drilled in the end of the bar with a 13/64ths bit and ran a tap through it. Instead of using the bolt with the bar end, I just ran a 5/16" countersunk head bolt in to hold the ends on. Worked very slickly!

12-13-2011, 09:03 PM	#4625
godwinmt They call me Crash Joined: Jul 2011 Location: Columbus, IN Oddometer: 340	It was surprisingly easy. The steel they use in the end has to be like 1020 or something else surprisingly soft.

12-13-2011, 11:08 PM	#4628
thesurvivalist Backcountry Rider Joined: Aug 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Oddometer: 362	The pivot point for the clutch cable is that where the clutch mounts to the engine/gearbox? Where is the pivot point for the brakes?

12-13-2011, 11:18 PM	#4630
thesurvivalist Backcountry Rider Joined: Aug 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Oddometer: 362	Ok excellent, thanks again for the advice.