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Old 03-07-2012, 09:45 PM   #5041
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,224
Balancing your tires

Quote:
Originally Posted by psu75 View Post
I found the tires for about $65 for both online. That part I have covered. All I really need help with is getting them mounted. Do I really need to get them balanced? It that really necessary?
Don't need them balanced if you're always going slow (40 mph), but it only takes a few minutes to do it yourself.

Take rim and tire off bike, put axle thru bearings and suspend between two standards (garbage cans, saw horses, chairs etc) so you can slowly spin the tire/wheel assembly.
Watch it spin and come to a stop.
Mark top of tire with sidewalk chalk.
Slowly spin again... and the tire should stop with the chalk mark on top again. This is the light spot.
Add a tire weight to the light side, remove chalk mark and spin again.
Make new chalk mark on the top of tire when it stops.
Keep doing this until the tire stops at random places and not in the same place.
You are done. Should take less than 15 minutes.
Re-install tire/wheel rim back on bike.

When I can't get the stick on wheel weights, a 3 or 4 inch piece of lead wire for fishing works, wrapped around the spoke where it meets the rim. Lightly crimp on the spoke with pliers after wrapping around the spoke nipple. Haven't had a lead wire come off yet.

The tire changing link above in post 5035 is a great place to learn. Neduro made a nice writeup on it all here.

Dave
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:18 PM   #5042
thesurvivalist
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Oddometer: 526
I bet that seat set you back $200+ looks comfy.

With regards to lubing the chain, the service manual advises every 600 miles the chain needs to be cleaned and re lubed. Does anyone do anything different? I'm listening to the pace motorcycle podcast and it mentions some riders just spray lube onto the existing lube every ride, does anyone do this?

My chain has developed a few spots of top rust on the side of the chain probably due to my river crossing, is it anything to worry about?

Also when am I supposed to use the chain tensioner? Im on 5400 miles, how do I know when the chain is stretched without having a gauge to measure the slack?
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:24 PM   #5043
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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The seat was about $149 since it was the second seat I've ordered from them. They gave me a discount. The first was $169. (on my DR350)

Your chain tension should be such that you have about two inches of play about half way between the front and rear sprockets. Just grab the bottom run of chain at that point and push it up and down and make sure there's that much play. When in doubt, keep the chain adjusted more loose, with more play, rather than too tight. You don't want to wreck a countershaft bearing.

A little rust doesn't matter much, just use oil or chain wax on the chain to stiop the corrosion. I clean everything up with kerosene when things get too messy and re-apply lubricant. Maybe once or twice a year depending on conditions.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:23 AM   #5044
Sateev
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Thailand
Oddometer: 118
Cam time...

Well, after rejetting, adding the FMF pipe, tires, etc., I have decided it's time to try to go faster: I bought a Stage 2 cam from Procycle (which came marked Stage 1, for Lt230, more on that later), made by Hotcams.

I also ordered some new gaskets and o-rings for the job, and bought a torque wrench of the proper range to secure the cam sprocket and cam cover bolts. I did some research, and found out that Suzuki Bond 1207B, as well as Yamabond and Hondabond, are all made by a company called ThreeBond, with their 1207B being the identical stuff, recommended for sealing the cam cover. Fortunately, it's available here in Thailand, because the Loctite and Permatex high-temp equivalents aren't (apparently).

Got some slick, new, skinny feeler gauges to replace my old fat ones that made it hard to get the lash adjusted right.

Got down to reading the stuff that comes with the cam, and, whoa! Intake lash at .006"? Exhaust at .014"?? Quite a bit looser than Suzuki's specs. Made me wonder, since Hotcams doesn't even spec a cam for the DR200 (or the DRZ-125, which is what Procycle sells them for). Seems all those bikes have the same basic valve lash of .003"-.005" for intake and exhaust, so I can't see the reason for nearly 4x the exhaust lash, and 2x the intake.

The whole idea of valve lash is to allow metal to expand when hot and end up with the correct clearance, and is determined by the thermal and metallurgical characteristics of the engine in question...

So, I shot off a quick email to Jeff at Procycles, and got back an almost immediate response: use the stock Suzuki lash specs. I also sent a similar message to Hotcams, via their technical support page, and got the royal blow off the next day: "we don't make a cam for your application, you're on your own." Geez, thanks guys. It was sent by some web-weenie, and even after I asked for a more competent person to respond, I got blown off again, " I don't know, I don't have every Suzuki manual, we design our cams to work with the specs we supply, yes it will be noisy, we don't have a cam for your application...", etc.

Thank Buddha for guys like Jeff at Procycle, who have actually DONE things, and are willing to share what they have learned. Can't really recommend Hotcams as a company now, but I'm hoping their product will at least be useful. I'm too pragmatic to write them off, if their stuff happens to work, but if I had to do it on my own, I'd be looking for another vendor about now...Procycle, on the other hand, is Aces.

Anyway, I should be able to get it done this weekend, if the weather mellows out a little. Right now, it's OK, but it's been nearly 100 deg.F and 90% humidity for the past week. I have to do this in my carport, so I'm going to pick the coolest day to get greasy.

I will report back on performance, and any gotchas during the install.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:30 AM   #5045
Sateev
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Oh yeah -

As I was cleaning my Moose Products foam air filter in hot soapy water, it literally came unglued. I ended up with four pieces of foam, nicely cut, but no longer recognizable as an air filter.

I used Castrol 4-T 10W40 engine oil to wet it, and it was in good (intact) shape when I removed it for cleaning, but as soon as it hit the suds (dishwashing liquid and hot water), it disassembled itself.

Is this normal? Or should I have used kerosene instead? Or was it the oil I used (I don't think so...)?

I used some pretty sticky contact cement (UHU) to put it back together, and it seems OK, but the proof will be in the oiling, I guess...maybe I can find some real air cleaner oil, but I have always used engine oil...

Any ideas?
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:15 AM   #5046
psu75
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Houston!! Finally!
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nice weather yesterday!

I took a nice ride around the area where I live yesterday since the weather is starting to finally break. Thought I'd share a few pics...







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Old 03-08-2012, 09:15 AM   #5047
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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Thanks for the pics. Looks like you have terrain to explore.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:22 PM   #5048
AKohler883
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Reading, PA
Oddometer: 105
Where can I go to find rear brakes for my DR ?
I went to EBC Brakes website, and it is totally useless.
I do believe that the Vesrah part number is VB-302, but I am not 100% sure
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:38 PM   #5049
psu75
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Location: Houston!! Finally!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Don't need them balanced if you're always going slow (40 mph), but it only takes a few minutes to do it yourself.

Take rim and tire off bike, put axle thru bearings and suspend between two standards (garbage cans, saw horses, chairs etc) so you can slowly spin the tire/wheel assembly.
Watch it spin and come to a stop.
Mark top of tire with sidewalk chalk.
Slowly spin again... and the tire should stop with the chalk mark on top again. This is the light spot.
Add a tire weight to the light side, remove chalk mark and spin again.
Make new chalk mark on the top of tire when it stops.
Keep doing this until the tire stops at random places and not in the same place.
You are done. Should take less than 15 minutes.
Re-install tire/wheel rim back on bike.

When I can't get the stick on wheel weights, a 3 or 4 inch piece of lead wire for fishing works, wrapped around the spoke where it meets the rim. Lightly crimp on the spoke with pliers after wrapping around the spoke nipple. Haven't had a lead wire come off yet.

The tire changing link above in post 5035 is a great place to learn. Neduro made a nice writeup on it all here.

Dave
GREAT info!!! Thank you. I am learning so much on here.

I did print out the guide with all the pics and am going to attempt to do my front tire myself. The back tire...ehhhhh, maybe not. I'll still probably take that somewhere and have it done. There's too many things back there that I can screw up by trying to do it unsupervised!
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:59 PM   #5050
Klay
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Sometimes you have to sort of supervise the dealer when they're changing your tires. Make sure you check things over yourself after they work on it. You really ought to get someone to help you, even for the front.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:52 PM   #5051
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psu75 View Post
Man, I think the guys at the local motorcycle shop tried to rake me over the coals today. I went in to get a price on mounting some tires and when I asked if I could bring in some tires to be mounted, of course I got the usual gruff about "oh, we would rather you bought the tires here and had them mounted here"... So I said okay, give me a cost on it all.

So for the Shinkos, stock size, a price for the front and back tires was $96. Mounting for both tires was $100. I'm going to have to call BULLSH*T on the mounting cost.

Does that sound right to you guys?

$100 to mount two tires on a motorcycle???
As soon as my shop was built I bought one of these...



has paid for itself a few times over now, and guess where my friends go to get their tires changed now. I also bought the balancing stand so I can balance tires as well. It makes it very easy to change tires, way easier than just using tire spoons, although I still need spoons on the DR tires.

PS When I was taking my rims in for new tires I was paying $25 - $35 per tire, and I always removed the rims.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:41 PM   #5052
Charliedog43
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Joined: Jun 2011
Oddometer: 20
The bike will not idle

Just picked up a 2003 with 728 miles on it. Drove to Owensboro, KY, 400 miles. 6.5 hours of driving time each way. I've since found out the seller had less than fully disclosed some details about the bike, one of which is the bike will not idle when fully warmed up. I 'took it around the block' before taking delivery, and the idle problem did not present itself, but I had since ridden it further, and everytime I came to a stop it died. I kept turning the idle up until it was racing, but as soon as I turned the idle down it would die. It always restarted, so I made it back home.
I suspect I'm headed to cleaning the carb, and after reading various posts about this problem it sounds easy to do. The gist is to loosen the clamps on the boots, rotate the carb, and remove the float bowl. I took a close look at it today, and I would suspect the throttle cable also needs to be dis-connected at the carb, as well as the gas and vacuum lines.
It would problably also be a good time to drill out the idle mixture plug and check the petcock for leaks.
Any other heads up would be appreciated. TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:05 PM   #5053
Klay
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Yes, you're on the right track.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:34 PM   #5054
Wallrat
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Location: Orange County, Ca
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Lol stupid stealership...

Went to pick up the front wheel today, they put the tire on backwards.

But at least I got the EVAP canister removed, 1.5" shaved off the seat, and a 110/80-18 MT-21 ordered. Need to take a sander to the seat foam to clean it up a bit but I think I've almost got the 2hundy midget-ready.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:07 AM   #5055
titont
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titont screwed with this post 03-09-2012 at 05:13 AM
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