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Old 03-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #5101
Wallrat
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Location: Orange County, Ca
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Its very easy.

-Put the bike up on a center stand, milk crate, etc.

-Take off the shaped nut on the rear brake lever adjuster at the very rear of the drum

-Take out the cotter pin on the brake holder rod deal under the swingarm. Use a 14mm wrench to remove all that, leave it hanging

-Remove the cotter pin on the axle nut

-19mm wrench on the axle nut. Remove that, the snail adjuster, and washer

-Pull the axle bolt out, keeping the right side washer/snail adjuster with it - a small spacer will fall out from the left side of the wheel, and a larger spacer from the right. Helps to lift the weight off the wheel if this is giving you trouble. I usually just stick my toe under the rear tire and flex my foot up.

-The wheel will be on the ground, roll it all the way forward and slide the chain off the sprocket.

-Roll the wheel back out of the swingarm, guiding the brake actuator as you go. Tilt the wheel to the right to dump the drum brake into your hand.

-Just put everything that you take off lined up in the proper order on the ground, sort of recreating how it's all assembled. Whole process of removing the wheel takes <5min. Putting back together takes <10min.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:44 PM   #5102
lobsta
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sweet 16

been tryin to hit the magic 100 mpg with an all street 16/37 tooth combo but just fallin short, maybe switch over to wine spritzers and hold the beers.nah............
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:15 PM   #5103
SHO_GuN
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Location: Delaware
Oddometer: 44
I used to think I was averaging around 90 MPG.

Then I checked my odometer ... over 10% error. In reality I am only getting around 80 MPG and I'm not heavy, it's flat as a pancake here and the highest point in the county is around 40 ft above sea level :(
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:18 PM   #5104
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 100,071
That's odd, my odometer is very accurate. The speedometer reads a little high...like 5% perhaps.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:34 PM   #5105
tony the tiger
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Location: secret owner of a Parmesan cheese factory
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Cool2 Hey - can I ask a question?

Only up to page ~50 or so, but I got a new-to-me 1999 DR 200SE and had a wonky thing happen on the ride home (which, while short, was quite fun).

Purchased with the low-beam inop; accidentally hit the horn button on my test drive ("BEEP!") so I know it worked but here's the weirdness:
Went to toot the horn as I was riding off, and it ~didn't~ work. Figured I suss it out when I had a chance.
Got home, and I noticed the high beam wasn't working either.
Just pulled the headlight - both elements are burnt.
Checked the connector - got voltage for high and low beam (don't want to make a liar outa' myself here, but from memory, around 11.8v).
Pulled the horn and connected the voltmeter - nothing, nada zip.
Tried connecting the horn to a car battery I have laying about (with ~12v on it) and got nothing from it either... not a toot. Just for grins I connected a car headlight (also laying about - my garage is a mess) and it lit up just fine, so I suspect the battery is doing its thing.

I've ordered the service manual - wondering if there's a fuse for the horn and if so, where to find it? I've got the headlight bracket off, seat and side panels off (found the 20a main fuse and the blinker relay) - oh, yeah and the blinkers still work (thank G-d)... anyone care to hazard a guess or offer some advice? I'll check back tomorrow.

Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:49 PM   #5106
Klay
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I'm not seeing anything like that.


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Old 03-14-2012, 05:49 AM   #5107
psu75
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Location: Houston!! Finally!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
It should be easy. Have a friend with you to help. Don't let the bike fall over on you. Take note of where the adjusters are (the little snail thingies on each side of the axle bolt that holds the rear wheel on) and just put it all back together the same way it came apart. You have to take off the brake rod and the lever that holds the brake drum in position, too.

The front wheel is even easier. Sometimes it's a little fussy putting it back together because you have to get all the axle spacers lined up and the brake rotor in between the brake pads at the same time. So you sort of need three hands at times. Those of use who are experienced have sprouted a third hand, but you could just get your friend to help.
Thanks Klay and Wallrat -

Do I need any special tools or should my normal toolbox be fine? Do I need a torque wrench? I know some videos I watched were very specific about getting the torque right when tightening the wheels back on...
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:59 AM   #5108
AKohler883
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my horn did not work either. I cleaned the contacts, and beat the dirt of of it, then it started working. It is not very loud though.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:04 AM   #5109
tony the tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKohler883 View Post
my horn did not work either. I cleaned the contacts, and beat the dirt of of it, then it started working. It is not very loud though.
Yeah, I did that... but it don't work. Tried reversing the polarity when I hooked up to a stand-by battery too, just in case I got it wrong. Things will be easier when I have the schematic, I guess... meanwhile, I'll start tracing the harness back later today if that's what it takes.
My concern is that maybe somehow the switch cluster is the source of both problems (headlight and horn inop) - so if I can find a horn fuse and check it, it'll save me from (maybe) disassembling the switch cluster unneccessarily.

Gonna' register it "on-post" so I want to make sure the lights/horn etc are good-to-go.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:48 AM   #5110
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psu75 View Post
Thanks Klay and Wallrat -

Do I need any special tools or should my normal toolbox be fine? Do I need a torque wrench? I know some videos I watched were very specific about getting the torque right when tightening the wheels back on...

Normal tools should be fine...the bike isn't fussy about torque values on wheel changes. But you ought to have a torque wrench in general. It's easy to overtorque things on oil filter changes, for example.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:00 AM   #5111
Charliedog43
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Torque specs

Very good timing. I have a service manual but no owner's manual. I don't see where it says the torque spec for either the oil drain bolt or the spark plug in the maintenance section of the s/m. Are they in the o/m? TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:04 AM   #5112
Klay
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Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
Very good timing. I have a service manual but no owner's manual. I don't see where it says the torque spec for either the oil drain bolt or the spark plug in the maintenance section of the s/m. Are they in the o/m? TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
20 ft-lb for the drain plug. The spark plug is not listed. Torque it lightly.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #5113
Andyinhilo
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony the tiger View Post
Yeah, I did that... but it don't work. Tried reversing the polarity when I hooked up to a stand-by battery too, just in case I got it wrong. Things will be easier when I have the schematic, I guess... meanwhile, I'll start tracing the harness back later today if that's what it takes.
My concern is that maybe somehow the switch cluster is the source of both problems (headlight and horn inop) - so if I can find a horn fuse and check it, it'll save me from (maybe) disassembling the switch cluster unneccessarily.

Gonna' register it "on-post" so I want to make sure the lights/horn etc are good-to-go.
Just the one main fuse that feeds the key switch. I would suspect the key switch or a connector between the switch and horn.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:15 PM   #5114
tony the tiger
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Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
Just the one main fuse that feeds the key switch. I would suspect the key switch or a connector between the switch and horn.
Thanks - found a parts drawing/fiche @cheapcycleparts.com and thought "Just the one fuse? Srsly?!" but that's just fine. When I leave "work" I'll backtrack the wiring - stopping off on the way home to find a replacement bulb for the headlight - might just be a coincidence; I've seen that on Army trucks before (replaced a dimmer switch on a duece-an-a-half only to discover both high beams burned out), but the timing of the problem made me suspect the horn switch cluster may have burned my one remaining element. guess we'll see!
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:46 PM   #5115
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony the tiger View Post
Thanks - found a parts drawing/fiche @cheapcycleparts.com and thought "Just the one fuse? Srsly?!" but that's just fine. When I leave "work" I'll backtrack the wiring - stopping off on the way home to find a replacement bulb for the headlight - might just be a coincidence; I've seen that on Army trucks before (replaced a dimmer switch on a duece-an-a-half only to discover both high beams burned out), but the timing of the problem made me suspect the horn switch cluster may have burned my one remaining element. guess we'll see!

Are you not seeing the circuit diagram I posted?
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