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Old 04-15-2012, 06:44 AM   #5311
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
A Yamaha Raptor petcock fits...it's one a lot of people commonly retrofit the 200 with. I've got a few other petcocks at home...can't remember where I got them...but I can take a look when I get home.

If I were you, I wouldn't fiddle with the carb any more until you've eliminated the petcock as a source of trouble. It sure sounds like that's the problem.
Ditto on replacing the petcock before anything else. Solve one issue at a time. I used the Raptor petcock on our DR650 when I put an IMS tank on.
Ditto on changing the oil too. That's where the gas goes when it overflows, first into the airbox, then down into the crankcase.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:56 AM   #5312
MorganSS
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I do know the PO just changed it, I want to say he mentioned Mobil Synthetic oil.

Any recomendations on oil? May as well post any hints or tricks for me now
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:13 AM   #5313
tkent02
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Shinko 244, comes in 3.50-18 or 4.10-18.

Which is closest to the stock 100/90-18?
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:36 AM   #5314
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
Shinko 244, comes in 3.50-18 or 4.10-18.

Which is closest to the stock 100/90-18?
Conversion chart here...

Tire Conversion Chart
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:02 AM   #5315
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorganSS View Post
I do know the PO just changed it, I want to say he mentioned Mobil Synthetic oil.

Any recomendations on oil? May as well post any hints or tricks for me now

I use 10W-40. Do not over-tighten the drain plug or the oil filter cover screws. Those screws in particular are very easy to strip. I use a small (short) wrench and tighten them just past finger-tight.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:03 AM   #5316
tkent02
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Conversion chart here...

Tire Conversion Chart
Which does not help at all, does anyone have experience with these tires on a DR 200?
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:09 AM   #5317
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Which does not help at all, does anyone have experience with these tires on a DR 200?

I've got a 4.10X18 705 on the back. Not sure if that's the same size as stock.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:24 PM   #5318
ben2go
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I use 10W-40. Do not over-tighten the drain plug or the oil filter cover screws. Those screws in particular are very easy to strip. I use a small (short) wrench and tighten them just past finger-tight.
Just to add to this.Most auto oils have friction modifiers which will cause the clutch to slip.I use Castrol 10-40 aka 4T oil.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:37 PM   #5319
Klay
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Just to add to this.Most auto oils have friction modifiers which will cause the clutch to slip.I use Castrol 10-40 aka 4T oil.
Oil wars! I just use automobile grade oil in all my bikes. All my life. I've never had any oil-related wear or clutch problems. Just make sure the oil doesn't carry this stamp:





(make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving")
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:58 PM   #5320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorganSS View Post
I do know the PO just changed it, I want to say he mentioned Mobil Synthetic oil.

Any recomendations on oil? May as well post any hints or tricks for me now
If the previous owner used synthetic, I'd stick with that. Just be sure it doesn't have friction modifiers or that it is motorcycle specific. Reason is, clutch plates may slip and wear if oil is "too slippery." I use AmsOil moto oil, but hey, there's many to choose from.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:23 PM   #5321
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When is a good time to change the filter, my bike only has 500 miles on it
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:48 PM   #5322
poppawheelie
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When is a good time to change the filter, my bike only has 500 miles on it
If you're going to change the oil, change the filter too. If there is gas in the oil, it will be saturated in the filter too. If there wasn't gas pooled in the bottom of the air box, there might not be gas in your oil at all. You'll have to make the call on that. Check the smell and the color of your oil. Maybe there's no gas in it at all. Biggest question: was there gas in the bottom of your air box?
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:07 PM   #5323
MorganSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
If you're going to change the oil, change the filter too. If there is gas in the oil, it will be saturated in the filter too. If there wasn't gas pooled in the bottom of the air box, there might not be gas in your oil at all. You'll have to make the call on that. Check the smell and the color of your oil. Maybe there's no gas in it at all. Biggest question: was there gas in the bottom of your air box?
Very minimal amount. Not pooling at all, just some moisture. I am doing a lot of easy things to get familiar with the bike and learn though. I am new to this hobby. I was previously a rc nitro racer and ours amazing how similar they are. Hell these are easier but I want to know this bike and feel comfortable by myself on a long trail ride.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:49 PM   #5324
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I've always used auto oil in my bikes too, cept lately I can't find friction-modifier less auto oil in Ca for less than $5/qt. So I've switched to motorcycle oil simply b/c its the same price.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:01 AM   #5325
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If bike was new and had 500 miles, I would change the oil per break in procedures.
If bike sat for long periods of time, I would change the oil.
So you have 2 reasons to change.
Might as well do the oil filter as well.
It is super easy on this bike.
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