the DR200 thread

[SHO_GuN]

Originally Posted by tony the tiger

...going back through the thread looking for those pictures.
This is the petcock I bought - fuel line is smaller than the spigot on the petcock. Also, the fuel filter level was ~lower~ than the vacuum stocker... so I'ma thinkin' it'll be LESS fuel in the reserve.
This one sits a little closer to the tank (it's smaller than the stocker) so I took a Dremel tool w/cutoff wheel to the inside edge so it'd clear the lip of the gas tank - otherwise you wouldn't be able to rotate it to reserve. 'bout $10 though.
Such a fun word...

First such report I have read.

I just went and pulled my 2010 paid invoices file and found the receipt from when I purchased mine - the part # I list matches.

Do you still have the package your's arrived in? If so does the part # match?


EDIT:

I just did some research - This part number is still valid, however the number in the parenthesis are an old part number: Yamaha 23F-24500-11-00 - FUEL COCK ASSY 1 (4X8-24500-02-00). So the new number should actually be: Yamaha 23F-24500-11-00 - FUEL COCK ASSY 1

[Wallrat]

Originally Posted by psu75

I'm moving from PA to TX this summer - is there anything particular I should do to the bike to prepare it for the change in the weather conditions/sea level? I'll be in the Houston area so it'll be HOT. My poor little bike is used to me getting it out in the colder weather and riding it... Any advice is helpful!

Thanks!

You had said a few pages back that you're still on stock jetting so aside from still needing to fix that, nope there's nothing you need to do for the warmer climate. Rust and sun damage will be a bigger issue there - especially without a garage. Can use Protect-All to help minimize Sun damage.

http://www.protectall.com/

[bross]

Originally Posted by psu75

I'm moving from PA to TX this summer - is there anything particular I should do to the bike to prepare it for the change in the weather conditions/sea level? I'll be in the Houston area so it'll be HOT. My poor little bike is used to me getting it out in the colder weather and riding it... Any advice is helpful!

Thanks!

If you're running 10W40 oil, I'd switch to a 20W50 when it gets real hot. I run 20W50 in our DRs here in the summer, we average temps 90-100+ in the summer.

[MorganSS]

Originally Posted by psu75

How'd the hiney feel after that?

actually it was fine, I posted a pic of the cushion I hand made a few pages back

[L1ability]

Can anyone confirm is a newer like 1996 header will fit a 86?

i have the 86 with a header rusted out, it the one with the 2 pipes out with one capped...

i wanted to go to a newer one pipe style because i just got a Big Gun evoX crf250 exhaust i was going to modify to fit. and i need better material to weld off than this old pipe.... pics will be posted!

[Sateev]

Originally Posted by Highaltidude

:-)

New seat on the bike......



Chuck

Yeah! Looks great, feels good too...huh?

[Sateev]

Originally Posted by amtz.zero

It's definitely not the petcock. I pulled the line that goes from the tank to the carb and it didn't pour gas so the petcock is fine and there's no gas in the airbox or anything. Does anyone else have any idea what it might be? The bike cuts out a little while you're riding and also when you're stopped. It cuts out a little and then it'll lurch forward a little right after it wanted to turn off (while you're riding, not when you're stopped). ANY help is appreciated, I know there's guys on here that know this bike inside and out. Thank you in advance!

Even though the carb was cleaned, whoever did it may not have paid attention to the float needle seat o-ring. They get hard, and fuel gets past them and causes intermittent flooding and sputtering, mostly at idle, but really at any speed. Also, while using that 5 lb. sledge hammer to remove the float pin, the float tab may have gotten bent, so it's a good idea to check the float level.

Sounds more like the o-ring, though, because you say it's intermittent. Easy to replace.

Hope this helps. Just kidding about the 5 lb. sledge.

[BC1]

Originally Posted by BC1

Hey...what a huge thread here about the dr200! Tons of info here.
I thought Id post up my latest score, a 98 model. Neglected, ignored and left outside to die, I rescued her for a measly $100 canadian. I thought worst case scenario, I could part it out and get more them my money back, and best case, I'll have another dualsport again. ( I had a 92 DR350 up til 10 years ago)
It is what you see...missing sidepanels, sprocket cover, stator cover+stator. I have the stator+cover onroute from an ebay purchase. I want to get the engine running before investing in more parts. A new battery is already installed.
Its getting a good carb cleaning and tank as well, as It had some old gas in it, guessing 1-2 years. The previous owner had a chain let go and take out the stator cover and a chunk out the engine case, but its a small area, I think it should patch up fine with jb weld.
Heres a pic. thanks for looking.

I got it running! Yea..... now to track down the problem with the hesitation, runs fine past this point. I had the carb apart and thought Id cleaned it really well. There was only a little deposit at the bottom of the bowl, didnt seem that dirty. Any part of the carb I should check for this hesitation issue?
Also could it be the timing? And the spark plug cap has a chunk missing on the lower part, not sure if that could cause anything.
On the bright side the bike has more power then I thought it would

Total investment so far, $243

thanks

[Klay]

It's almost always the carb that is the problem with the the bikes that have been sitting. Did you take the jets out and soak them in carburetor cleaner?

[BC1]

Yes but the carb cleaner evaporates very quick. If it runs good in mid/upper rpm's, then the main jet is good.
So I think its the pilot jet/circuit...?

[Klay]

I would just keep cleaning them. It takes a few tries sometimes.

[Highaltidude]

Originally Posted by Klay

I would just keep cleaning them. It takes a few tries sometimes.

While my time isn't worth much, I'll still spend $3 on a new jet before doing repeated cleanings.....
:-) :-)


Chuck

[BC1]

Well I solved it....I was losing confidence in my carb cleaning, I was very thorough......

All it was.....


































the petcock was on PRI......lol! and I only had a little fuel in the tank.
The thing runs great! Already got my moneys worth out of her.
Now onto the electrical, then freeing up the rear axle, then cosmetics, but first going thru the process of getting registration , that could take a while.
I missed some side panels on ebay by an hour, If anyone knows of some for a decent price, LMK.

thanks everyone

[ADVCoop]

Just bought this one yesterday for my wife. She was riding a GZ250 cruiser before this (Ninja 250 before that and a Buell Blast before that). It's a 1997 model with ~8000 miles. It's in pretty good shape and ran great on my test ride. Just needs rear turn signals. We pick it up tomorrow (had to wait for a notary to be open).

[Conman]

Originally Posted by web037

So I have spent the winter going through the used MY2000 DR200 I bought for my wife at the end of last summer.

- Changed the fork springs to a set of BBR CRF150F springs, about 30% stiffer than stock.
- Tore down the Swing arm and rear suspension and lubed everything with waterproof grease
- Cranked the pre-load all the way up on the rear shock
- Adjusted the valves, they were quite a ways out
- Put a new GP1 rear tire on
- Put a 130 main in the carb and cleaned it real good
- installed a new clutch, man was the old one dead after 17K

Rode it for the first time tonight. With the suspension this way it sure feels a whole lot better.

I still have some power issues to work out, and would appriciate any suggestions you might have, please see my other post at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560579

Web037, wanted to know how the BBR fork springs are working out? Also what weight fork oil you using?

Thanks,
Con