the DR200 thread - Page 375

Lateralus180 · 05-31-2012, 07:54 PM

I'll share the information I have found on the rear suspension and making adjustments for the DR200 in case anyone wanted to know.

The manual says if you want to adjust the rear suspension you need to take the wheel off and remove the entire shock assembly. I was able to use a metal stick and hammer to slowly move the adjustment nut without the hassle of removing the rear wheel, though it did ding up the nut and make it look less pretty. Who cares, right?

The nut moves on threads that have a 1 to 1.5 inch travel -- I didn't measure the length of the threads but it appears to be closer to 1.5 inches. The higher you place the nut, the more loose and soppy the rear suspension will be. If you lower the nut, the suspension becomes more stiff. It will also raise the seat height a little more from the floor, but the biggest improvement in seat height is that the bike won't sag as much when you sit on it.

The manual lists three suspension ranges, and gives an (uncompressed?) spring measurement for each setting.
9.3" Soft
9.1" Medium* (factory setting)
8.9" Hard

When adjusting my suspension, I just ignored the spring measurement. The adjustment nut was in the middle of the threads, so I am going to assume that's the medium setting. I will take the bike for a spin tomorrow morning and maybe I'll move the nut even lower.

Will the bike handle any different on and off road with the bike adjusted for harder suspension? Obviously it will feel different but will it affect cornering and road grip much?

tony the tiger · 05-31-2012, 09:36 PM

Today I pulled the carb & cleaned it - then installed the kit I got earlier this month.
...also cleaned & serviced the air filter... there was a couple ounces of motor oil in the airbox; maybe when I changed the oil a couple weeks ago I overfilled it

it's all good though

...anyways, I ran it up-n-down the street a few times, with the top of the airbox on - there was a slight hesitation on WOT accelleration. Back to the garage, and off with the lid - no more stuttering but I now know what y'all were talking about... doesn't sound so tame anymore! I know they say the seat provides adequate protection to the filter w/o the airbox lid... but I'm not real comfy with it off. Maybe an airbox mod in the near future, to provide more air AND protection.
Another inmate told me he opened up the backside, where the airhorns originally are located. I've seen the "one big hole in the top" & the 3-hole mod...

Ah well, it is what it is.

Klay · 05-31-2012, 09:56 PM

I put a two-inch hole in the lid. Still fairly quiet.

Lateralus, making the suspension too stiff can make it non-compliant and cause problems with the wheel not maintaining contact with the ground over bumps. Too soft and the bike wallows and is hard to control. You're looking for the middle range. There are all sorts of ins and outs involved with this kind of stuff. I'd counsel you to make small changes and keep testing thoroughly after every adjustment.

ADVCoop · 06-01-2012, 03:45 AM

My wife brought her "new" bike home last night. It's only the second time she ever drove my truck and it's the first time ever she hauled a bike. But she was too excited to wait until Saturday when I could pick it up so she went after work yesterday.

Of course they (my wife, the seller, and his wife) managed to drop it unloading it from his truck to put into ours, that is how the brake lever got curled LOL. I unloaded it myself without issue but I guess I have many years of practice

.

Lateralus180 · 06-01-2012, 08:32 AM

I didn't have a 2" hole cutter but I did have a 1" cutter. I cut three holes in the lid in a triangular pattern. They are 1" in diameter, and three 1" holes should have roughly the same amount of air flow as a 2" hole.

I tried the bike with no lid as well and the intake noise echoes upward and makes the bike extremely noisy when accelerating. If you drill enough holes through the lid it will provide enough air flow in my opinion and is only a little more noisy than it was from the factory.

Also make sure you adjust the screw properly. I had the bike running way too rich when I first took it out, and it would hesitate a bit when I would open up the throttle. I thought it was a problem with the air box being too restricted but it ran smoothly when the screw was adjusted properly. The Kientech instructions say you should tighten the screw 15-16 full turns inward, and back out I think 1+1/8 turns. I ended up backing it out like the instructions said but my bike was running a little lean. I brought it out another full turn and it's running much better now.

Bud11 · 06-01-2012, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADVCoop

My wife brought her "new" bike home last night. It's only the second time she ever drove my truck and it's the first time ever she hauled a bike. But she was too excited to wait until Saturday when I could pick it up so she went after work yesterday.

Of course they (my wife, the seller, and his wife) managed to drop it unloading it from his truck to put into ours, that is how the brake lever got curled LOL. I unloaded it myself without issue but I guess I have many years of practice

.

Hope she enjoys the "new" bike. Looks nice. At least the first "drop" is out of the way now! Bud (originally from Allentown)

ADVCoop · 06-01-2012, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud11

Hope she enjoys the "new" bike. Looks nice. At least the first "drop" is out of the way now! Bud (originally from Allentown)

Thanks she is very excited. She rode it last night a little and loves it compared to the GZ250 we just sold.

Klay · 06-01-2012, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADVCoop

Thanks she is very excited. She rode it last night a little and loves it compared to the GZ250 we just sold.

That's a good little motor in the GZ250, but the ergonomics don't agree with me.

JayGoldstein · 06-01-2012, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

Also make sure you adjust the screw properly. I had the bike running way too rich when I first took it out, and it would hesitate a bit when I would open up the throttle. I thought it was a problem with the air box being too restricted but it ran smoothly when the screw was adjusted properly. The Kientech instructions say you should tighten the screw 15-16 full turns inward, and back out I think 1+1/8 turns. I ended up backing it out like the instructions said but my bike was running a little lean. I brought it out another full turn and it's running much better now.

I've also experienced that hesitation when opening the throttle. I'm taking my bike in for the 1,000 km service next week and will mention this issue. Has anyone has gotten their dealer to adjust the carb, or do they refuse to do so because of emissions regulations?

Lateralus180 · 06-01-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayGoldstein

I've also experienced that hesitation when opening the throttle. I'm taking my bike in for the 1,000 km service next week and will mention this issue. Has anyone has gotten their dealer to adjust the carb, or do they refuse to do so because of emissions regulations?

Do you have the jetting kit or is the bike stock?

JayGoldstein · 06-01-2012, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

Do you have the jetting kit or is the bike stock?

Stock.

Klay · 06-01-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayGoldstein

I've also experienced that hesitation when opening the throttle. I'm taking my bike in for the 1,000 km service next week and will mention this issue. Has anyone has gotten their dealer to adjust the carb, or do they refuse to do so because of emissions regulations?

Does it go away when the bike is thoroughly warmed up?

tony the tiger · 06-01-2012, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

...
Also make sure you adjust the screw properly. I had the bike running way too rich when I first took it out, and it would hesitate a bit when I would open up the throttle. I thought it was a problem with the air box being too restricted but it ran smoothly when the screw was adjusted properly. The Kientech instructions say you should tighten the screw 15-16 full turns inward, and back out I think 1+1/8 turns. I ended up backing it out like the instructions said but my bike was running a little lean. I brought it out another full turn and it's running much better now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayGoldstein

I've also experienced that hesitation when opening the throttle. I'm taking my bike in for the 1,000 km service next week and will mention this issue. Has anyone has gotten their dealer to adjust the carb, or do they refuse to do so because of emissions regulations?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

Do you have the jetting kit or is the bike stock?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayGoldstein

Stock

Well, I installed the Kientech kit, before doing so my bike was stock (1999 vintage) and never had a hesitation.

Only did this with the airbox lid installed (which is contrary to Jesse's instructions - but I wanted to change things gradually to compare performance). Today I took it around the block, and there was no hesitation. Would've gone further, but I took the pedal bike out for a 12-miler earlier and frankly, was a little bushed

On the "plus" side - it started easily and there was no need to wait for it to warm-up when I took off for the neighbor's house.

Lateralus - I took the adjustment screw in ~16 1/2 turns, which was "bottomed out" - then backed it out 1 & 1/8th (your memory is correct on that!) and ended up turning it back in ~1/3 or so... if I have time tomorrow I'll take it out for a longer run and see how it does - still without the airbox cover for now.

ADVCoop · 06-02-2012, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klay

That's a good little motor in the GZ250, but the ergonomics don't agree with me.

She agreed with you that's why we sold it. She never got used to the forward controls.

ThomasVolomitz · 06-02-2012, 06:59 AM

The sad thing is, in Japan, Suzuki sells this awesome machine with the GZ250 power plant. Much more desirable than the cruiser model.

05-31-2012, 07:54 PM	#5611
Lateralus180 Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Location: Chicago Burbs Oddometer: 37	Suzuki DR200SE Rear Suspension Adjustment I'll share the information I have found on the rear suspension and making adjustments for the DR200 in case anyone wanted to know. The manual says if you want to adjust the rear suspension you need to take the wheel off and remove the entire shock assembly. I was able to use a metal stick and hammer to slowly move the adjustment nut without the hassle of removing the rear wheel, though it did ding up the nut and make it look less pretty. Who cares, right? The nut moves on threads that have a 1 to 1.5 inch travel -- I didn't measure the length of the threads but it appears to be closer to 1.5 inches. The higher you place the nut, the more loose and soppy the rear suspension will be. If you lower the nut, the suspension becomes more stiff. It will also raise the seat height a little more from the floor, but the biggest improvement in seat height is that the bike won't sag as much when you sit on it. The manual lists three suspension ranges, and gives an (uncompressed?) spring measurement for each setting. 9.3" Soft 9.1" Medium* (factory setting) 8.9" Hard When adjusting my suspension, I just ignored the spring measurement. The adjustment nut was in the middle of the threads, so I am going to assume that's the medium setting. I will take the bike for a spin tomorrow morning and maybe I'll move the nut even lower. Will the bike handle any different on and off road with the bike adjusted for harder suspension? Obviously it will feel different but will it affect cornering and road grip much?

05-31-2012, 09:56 PM	#5613
Klay plainsman Joined: Nov 2005 Location: out in the great wide open Oddometer: 89,127	I put a two-inch hole in the lid. Still fairly quiet. Lateralus, making the suspension too stiff can make it non-compliant and cause problems with the wheel not maintaining contact with the ground over bumps. Too soft and the bike wallows and is hard to control. You're looking for the middle range. There are all sorts of ins and outs involved with this kind of stuff. I'd counsel you to make small changes and keep testing thoroughly after every adjustment. __________________ _______

06-01-2012, 03:45 AM	#5614
ADVCoop Studly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Acme, PA Oddometer: 715	My wife brought her "new" bike home last night. It's only the second time she ever drove my truck and it's the first time ever she hauled a bike. But she was too excited to wait until Saturday when I could pick it up so she went after work yesterday. Of course they (my wife, the seller, and his wife) managed to drop it unloading it from his truck to put into ours, that is how the brake lever got curled LOL. I unloaded it myself without issue but I guess I have many years of practice . __________________ 2010 Gas Gas EC250 - 1997 Honda XR650L - 1992 Gas Gas GT25 "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do" - Mark Twain

06-02-2012, 06:59 AM	#5625
ThomasVolomitz Not so Gnarly Joined: Aug 2010 Location: DDR c/o Honecker Oddometer: 3,977	The sad thing is, in Japan, Suzuki sells this awesome machine with the GZ250 power plant. Much more desirable than the cruiser model. __________________ Doo Done

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06-01-2012, 08:32 AM	#5615
Lateralus180 Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Location: Chicago Burbs Oddometer: 37	I didn't have a 2" hole cutter but I did have a 1" cutter. I cut three holes in the lid in a triangular pattern. They are 1" in diameter, and three 1" holes should have roughly the same amount of air flow as a 2" hole. I tried the bike with no lid as well and the intake noise echoes upward and makes the bike extremely noisy when accelerating. If you drill enough holes through the lid it will provide enough air flow in my opinion and is only a little more noisy than it was from the factory. Also make sure you adjust the screw properly. I had the bike running way too rich when I first took it out, and it would hesitate a bit when I would open up the throttle. I thought it was a problem with the air box being too restricted but it ran smoothly when the screw was adjusted properly. The Kientech instructions say you should tighten the screw 15-16 full turns inward, and back out I think 1+1/8 turns. I ended up backing it out like the instructions said but my bike was running a little lean. I brought it out another full turn and it's running much better now.