the DR200 thread

[L1ability]

Originally Posted by Andyinhilo

Did you look around inside the head for the other adjuster/nut? and did you tighten the new one enough?

If it sounds like the top end is gonna explode, if you run it long enough making noise like that, it probably will.

well i put it at the top of its stroke and ajusted to .10, but it was my first ever ajustment ive done to valves, so it could be wrong.

how do i get the motor to sit perfect at TDC?

[Highaltidude]

Originally Posted by L1ability

well i put it at the top of its stroke and ajusted to .10, but it was my first ever ajustment ive done to valves, so it could be wrong.

how do i get the motor to sit perfect at TDC?

At the top of "which" stroke? One is right, one is wrong (remember it's a four stroke and the piston at the top can be correct for valve adjustment, or it can be off a cycle.....).

I've always used a pencil in the spark plug hole (eraser side down) to feel the piston to determine when it's at the top....

Chuck

[Klay]

Originally Posted by L1ability

how do i get the motor to sit perfect at TDC?

Look at the intake valve. When it starts to come back up after pushing down, you're approaching TDC on the compression stroke. There's an inspection port on the front of the motor, and when you see the hash mark on the flywheel through the port, the piston is at top dead center.

[Andyinhilo]

Originally Posted by L1ability

well i put it at the top of its stroke and ajusted to .10, but it was my first ever ajustment ive done to valves, so it could be wrong.

how do i get the motor to sit perfect at TDC?

To get it to stay at TDC, put it in gear.

[Lateralus180]

How many miles is everyone getting out of a set of tires? I have the stock trailwings on my bike. I just rolled over 3,000 miles and the rear looks to have 1/3 tread, and maybe 1/2 tread on the front. I ride 90% street and 10% off road here. The trailwings are good enough on the road but are very squirmy off-road. I feel like I'm going to lose it every time I turn off road.

I'm thinking about getting a set of Michelin T63's in 80/90-21 front and 110/80-18 rear.

[Wallrat]

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

How many miles is everyone getting out of a set of tires?

I got about 4 miles out of mine. Then I ordered some that were actually worth a crap.

[Highaltidude]

Originally Posted by Lateralus180

How many miles is everyone getting out of a set of tires?

The stock tires get blasted on here frequently.....
The wife and I have put about 1,300 miles each on our bikes since buying them last Fall.
Her's was "new" and mine now has 2,200 miles. It's been about 50% pavement and 50% off road.
They've still got plenty of life in the tires and we've been very happy with them.

Chuck

[SHO_GuN]

I put over 9,000 miles on my Trail Wings.

They still had tread left, I just replaced them because they were over a decade old and starting to develop tiny dry rot cracks.

[Sateev]

Originally Posted by L1ability

so after getting the tank off and looking in the inspection covers, exhaust has an ajustment screw and nut, but intake does not! i guess the guy before me assembles without it...

the loud tapping was the rocker arm hitting the inspection plate (which theres dents in) and i just called my dealer to order a new nut and screw.

theres NO WAY a whole nut and screw could of fallen in the crankcase in this DR is there? to me it looks like theres no way down that it could fit?

anyways the loud tapping, and the no rev past 1/4 with any power, and the rich condition im assuming is cause by this instake valve... so i cleaned the top end, im re-assembling it atm and i will add the nut and screw when it comes in friday and i will report back!

this whole time i thought it was carb related and spent money on a new carb :(
and looks like the guy before me touched the timing, how do i check if its good?

Something doesn't make sense here: the upward travel of the rocker arm end (under the inspection cap) where the adjustment screw belongs, is limited by the downward travel of the follower on the cam. It can NEVER go high enough to hit the inspection cap, especially without the added height of the adjustment screw, and I seriously find it hard to believe that the intake valve would even open without the adjustment screw in place, although I have no real reason to doubt your word. It just doesn't make sense.

I would DEFINITELY remove the cylinder head cover and inspect the rockers and shafts, as well as having a look at the cam surfaces, before running the engine again. Hopefully you'll find the screw and nut somewhere in there. If the follower end of the rocker is worn down, or missing, then I can believe the rocker might hit the cap - and then you are in a world of hurt.

[Sateev]

Originally Posted by Highaltidude

...
Note that cold air is denser and should help the lean condition that many of these bikes seem to have w factory jetting at sea level elevation.

I'm of the opinion that the "jet kit" is only needed if you have made other changes (exhaust and air box) that require more air flow..... Otherwise it's an easy thing to just jet for tuning....... I don't think it's a problem to drill out the plug to access the idle mixture screw for tuning....

Chuck

Uh, you might want to re-think your understanding of how cold air affects mixture. Denser air means more oxygen, compared to the same amount of fuel, which means it becomes leaner. A cold engine, specifically the intake tract, allows liquid fuel to drop out of the intake airstream more easily, contributing to the lean condition, which is why there is a choke.

And while you would be correct to say that the best benefit from a jet kit would be obtained if you increase breathing, like adding a less restrictive pipe, and opening up the airbox, the fact remains that factory jetting is on the ragged edge of too lean, and engine temperatures suffer from it. On a hot day, in heavy traffic, I would rather have a bike that is slightly too rich, but running cooler, than one that is too lean running hot...

Just my $0.02.

[Zaboo65]

We just got my wife a '96 DR200 for her first bike. I took it for a little ride and then turned the petcock to the "off" position (between on and res). Woke up with fuel and oil all over the garage floor.

I'll change the oil and filter but will I need to do anything else?

I don't have an owners manual, anything specific I need to know about changing the oil and filter or is it pretty basic (I am figuring pretty basic)?

Thanks all

[Sateev]

Originally Posted by Zaboo65

We just got my wife a '96 DR200 for her first bike. I took it for a little ride and then turned the petcock to the "off" position (between on and res). Woke up with fuel and oil all over the garage floor.

I'll change the oil and filter but will I need to do anything else?

I don't have an owners manual, anything specific I need to know about changing the oil and filter or is it pretty basic (I am figuring pretty basic)?

Anyone have an owners manual or shop manual that I might be able to "borrow?"

Thanks all

Think you'll find that, unless someone has changed the stock petcock, the position between 'ON' and 'RES' is labeled 'PRI' for PRIME. It bypasses the vacuum shutoff, so fuel will flow even when the engine is off (and so you can prime an empty float bowl).

Check for a second rubber hose coming off the back of the petcock, and terminating on the opposite side of the carb from the fuel line. That would be the vacuum line, which controls the petcock.

Also, in my experience, if it's leaking that much fuel, the o-ring which seals the needle/seat assembly into the carb body is shot. Easy enough to change, and the bike will probably run better for a long time. Once it is hardened, it begins to leak randomly with vibration, and can contribute to everything from poor idling and starting problems, to major driveability problems. Ethanol fuel components (gasohol) can cause this o-ring to get hard. I think it a 6 x 1.5 mm o-ring.

To answer your original question, just drain the oil, change the filter, and away you go! Oil plug on the bottom of the crankcase, in the middle of the triangular flange, oil filter behind the round cover with three acorn nuts on the right-side engine cover. Be sure the center o-ring is there, and that the one in the oil filter cover is still good.

Refill, starting with 800ml or so, start the engine for a minute or so, then stop it and let it sit while the oil drains back to the sump. Make sure the bile is upright, and check the sight glass on the engine side cover, and top up until it's half way up. Bam! You're done.

Congrats on the new bike - they're a whole lot of fun. Your wife will love it.

[Lateralus180]

Originally Posted by Zaboo65

We just got my wife a '96 DR200 for her first bike. I took it for a little ride and then turned the petcock to the "off" position (between on and res). Woke up with fuel and oil all over the garage floor.

I'll change the oil and filter but will I need to do anything else?

I don't have an owners manual, anything specific I need to know about changing the oil and filter or is it pretty basic (I am figuring pretty basic)?

Thanks all

Be sure to check inside the air box. When gasoline leaks on the DR200 some of it flows back through the carb and dumps into the air box. The airbox has a little pressure hose that flows down to the crank case so you may also have gasoline in the crank case as well.

[Wallrat]

Just save yourself a headache and replace the stock petcock with a raptor one. It's $15 and can potentially save your engine.

[ben2go]

Pull the spark plug and rotate the engine by putting the bike in gear and pushing it.If there is any fuel in the cylinder,it will be expelled with extreme prejudice.