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Old 02-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #6376
jeffcneal
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Thanks Trailrider200, I'm on my way there now.

regards,
Jeff
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:37 AM   #6377
AleXtz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sateev View Post
AleXtz: actually, there is no gasket under the valve cover. You just need to CAREFULLY use Suzukibond (or Threebond, or Yamahabond, or WhateverBond - they're all black and all the same), and put a a SMALL bead all the way around the sealing surface, including around the holes. Be sure to clean the cover and head surfaces COMPLETELY of all the old sealer, and torque the bolts in the correct sequence and to the correct torque. Unless the thing is BADLY bent, it will seal up perfectly. Don't forget to replace the rubber cam plug (no sealer there). It's really easy, if you are patient, and methodical, and will be as good as new.

Appreciate you sharing your knowledge Sateev, i really do. That makes sense, u know right now im in the curve of knowing from head to toes this bike and this info. is really worth gold. I get the point in beading with threebond the right way. Rubber cam plug is #17 on this blueprint right? http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...EAD/parts.html

Because that plug is all nasty covered with threebond, will replace.

And now i realize the petcock is leaking gas but im already checking the previous posts on this thread where go over this topic though. I hope no one smokes around the moto parking spot at school until i get it fixed

Thanx again Sateev, cheers!
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:12 PM   #6378
brailman133
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Any one know the biggest shinko 705 that will fit dr200se front and rear? Seen this picture can't find sizes he used
This is the size I want on my dr...


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Old 02-05-2013, 01:30 PM   #6379
jeffcneal
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The bike belongs to DeeR200, he'd probably be the most reliable source of info on the tires.

regards,
Jeff
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:30 PM   #6380
brailman133
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Thanks Jeff looking him up know


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Old 02-06-2013, 06:11 AM   #6381
TipsyMcStagger
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Been thinking about buying a Chinese 150 Ruckus clone for kicing around the 'hood but came across a 2001 DR200 with fewer than 50 miles for nearly the same money. Considering picking up the DR instead.

I know this info had been repeated but this is a looong thread; have there been any appreciable changes over the years? Anything a 2001 is lacking vs. later model years?

TIA.

Tipsy
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:16 AM   #6382
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
Been thinking about buying a Chinese 150 Ruckus clone for kicing around the 'hood but came across a 2001 DR200 with fewer than 50 miles for nearly the same money. Considering picking up the DR instead.

I know this info had been repeated but this is a looong thread; have there been any appreciable changes over the years? Anything a 2001 is lacking vs. later model years?

TIA.

Tipsy
No changes. Go for the DR. You may have to clean the carb and replace the petcock.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:58 AM   #6383
jeffcneal
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TipseyMcStagger:

I'm with Klay. And please do'nt ask me how I know, but at least some of the PRC clones are'nt quite clones.

regards,
Jeff
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:57 PM   #6384
TipsyMcStagger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffcneal View Post
TipsyMcStagger:

I'm with Klay. And please don't ask me how I know, but at least some of the PRC clones aren't quite clones.

regards,
Jeff
LOL...I know they're junk (the clones). This is the one I was thinking about (along with all the out of the crate maintenance listed in that thread).

I'm going to look at the DR, if it's still available.

Tipsy
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:42 PM   #6385
Charliedog43
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Changing the clutch engagement?

This may not be possible, or it may be an indication of some other problem, but on my new-to-me 2003 DR200, with less than 2000 miles, the clutch does not engage until the lever is at least 90% out. I wonder if there is some way to get it to engage closer to the grip. I have two FZ1's (clutch cables) and a Concours Classic (hydraulic clutch), and they all engage much closer to the grip. It almost feels like I'm really slipping the clutch until it engages. Is there a way to visually inspect the clutch plates and tell if they're slipping? TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #6386
jeffcneal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
LOL...I know they're junk (the clones). This is the one I was thinking about (along with all the out of the crate maintenance listed in that thread).

I'm going to look at the DR, if it's still available.

Tipsy
Probably a wise choice Tipsey. And hey, look at DeeR200s ride. With those tires and fenders, it oozes "hooligan" attitude!

regards,
Jeff
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:16 PM   #6387
Klay
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Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
This may not be possible, or it may be an indication of some other problem, but on my new-to-me 2003 DR200, with less than 2000 miles, the clutch does not engage until the lever is at least 90% out. I wonder if there is some way to get it to engage closer to the grip. I have two FZ1's (clutch cables) and a Concours Classic (hydraulic clutch), and they all engage much closer to the grip. It almost feels like I'm really slipping the clutch until it engages. Is there a way to visually inspect the clutch plates and tell if they're slipping? TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
The way to check if the clutch is slipping is to go slow in top gear and roll on the throttle all the way to the stop. If the engine revs without road speed increasing at the same rate, it's slipping.


You can adjust the point of engagement at the handlebar or further down the cable housing. But 90% out sounds about right. If you adjust the clutch so that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, the shifting will get stiff and balky.
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:20 PM   #6388
striperjunky
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clutch cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
This may not be possible, or it may be an indication of some other problem, but on my new-to-me 2003 DR200, with less than 2000 miles, the clutch does not engage until the lever is at least 90% out. I wonder if there is some way to get it to engage closer to the grip. I have two FZ1's (clutch cables) and a Concours Classic (hydraulic clutch), and they all engage much closer to the grip. It almost feels like I'm really slipping the clutch until it engages. Is there a way to visually inspect the clutch plates and tell if they're slipping? TIA

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
Mine did the same thing when i picked it up from the previous owner. Only 3700 miles on it. It kinda felt like it wasn't engaging all the way. Come to find out (through the thumpertalk forum) there's a second adjuster located half way down the the cable (resting on the side of the frame down tube) that i fiddled with until i got the clutch feel just right. Haven't had any problems since!! Good luck.

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:28 PM   #6389
tony the tiger
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Took advantage of a sunny 'winter' day in the PNW and pulled the Little Bike out of the garage for a ride. Don'tcha' know after a nice run-about, and nearly home, the front brake lever started feeling spongy.
At the end of my road (cul-de-sac) I decided to give it a solid squeeze, and it went straight back - no resistance. I thought "Well, it's either the master cylinder, or it's holed.." started looking around and sure enough - left side of the front tire coated in brake fluid and the line is torn through... eh - 14 year old brake line, I guess it's about time for a replacement.

...at least it happened close to home, and I got a nice ride in first.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:45 AM   #6390
Charliedog43
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Clutch cable adjustment

Thanks for the heads up on the 2nd cable adjuster. I thought there might be one but did not see it the other end of the cable, and it didn't hit me that it might be in the middle. At the moment I'd say it does not engage until it's 95% out.

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN
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