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Old 03-07-2013, 07:20 PM   #6451
Solas5
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Location: Seattle, WA
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Alright. I need a little help problem solving. My bikes symptoms are as follows: when I start it I always have to use choke, once I let warm up for a few min I switch choke off and it runs fine, once I put in 1st it will sometimes die. Once I get going then down shift for a stop it will nearly always die unless I keep on the throttle while stopped. Sometimes as I slow down, it will give a slight backfire with the occasional heavy one which I know is a sign of running lean. My guess is that the jets are pretty restricted and need cleaned/replaced. What other things need I consider in going about fixing the problem and can you provide links to purchase new jets if necessary? Thanks

Ryan
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:40 PM   #6452
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solas5 View Post
Alright. I need a little help problem solving. My bikes symptoms are as follows: when I start it I always have to use choke, once I let warm up for a few min I switch choke off and it runs fine, once I put in 1st it will sometimes die. Once I get going then down shift for a stop it will nearly always die unless I keep on the throttle while stopped. Sometimes as I slow down, it will give a slight backfire with the occasional heavy one which I know is a sign of running lean. My guess is that the jets are pretty restricted and need cleaned/replaced. What other things need I consider in going about fixing the problem and can you provide links to purchase new jets if necessary? Thanks

Ryan

I would give the carb a really thorough cleaning for starters. It's sometimes hard to clear a clogged jet.

You can order new jets from Kientech, link in here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...35&postcount=2

I recently cleaned a carb by soaking it in a 50/50 mixture of Pine Sol and water for about four hours. It worked amazingly well. Then I just rinsed it with water really thoroughly and blew it out with compressed air. Pine Sol doesn't attack plastic or rubber components, so you don't have to disassemble all the way. I just took the float bowl and diaphragm cap off and took the slider out. (don't lose small washers, clips, or springs when disassembling)
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:34 AM   #6453
Wallrat
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Location: Orange County, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solas5 View Post
once I put in 1st it will sometimes die. Once I get going then down shift for a stop it will nearly always die unless I keep on the throttle while stopped.
Ryan
Tighten up your clutch cable a tad and you might wanna bump your idle speed up a bit if that doesn't help.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:56 AM   #6454
Solas5
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Do you have to take the airbox out to get the carb out or is there an easier way?
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:05 PM   #6455
Klay
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Originally Posted by Solas5 View Post
Do you have to take the airbox out to get the carb out or is there an easier way?
No, you can just loosen the clamps completely and work the carburetor out. Sometimes it's hard to put back in, but if you lubricate the rubber with something and work the carb forward and backward, you can slip it back in.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:30 PM   #6456
Solas5
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Okay. Got it out and was taking it apart to clean and this fell out

And I have no idea where it came from. Any help?
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:35 PM   #6457
Klay
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That doesn't look like a carb part. Are you sure it wasn't there on the floor beforehand? Looks like a curtain hook.

You can look at Bikebandit for a carb diagram:


http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-suzuk...5826#sch242686
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:53 PM   #6458
Solas5
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That's good news. I was hoping that was the case however a couple other pieces fell out too and I did find their places so I was worried I wouldn't get this back together properly
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:32 PM   #6459
ben2go
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Location: Upstate SC USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solas5 View Post
Okay. Got it out and was taking it apart to clean and this fell out

And I have no idea where it came from. Any help?
I just used about 100 of those damned curtain hooks.I hung to sets of curtains that have the pull strings to open and close them.How it made aboard a motorcycles is way beyond me.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #6460
billmi
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2008_DR200SE_maintenance

One of my DR200SEs ended up sitting unused for about a year, with a tank full of gas.

To get it going again, I started with the battery (a flooded acid) which was empty, so I tried adding some acid and charging – no go. New battery in hand, I checked the oil level, which looked OK (no sign of gas leaking into it) cranked it over, and no go.

Next, I changed the oil, pulled the carb and sure enough it was looking gunky. Both the float bowl and top of the carb had stripped screws (thanks previous owner) so I cut slots in them, got them out and replaced them with socket head hex screws.

Inside, the carb was gunky (needle valve was literally blocked shot) and the screwdriver slot in the pilot jet was stripped to the point I couldn’t get it out (thanks again, previous owner). Everything else came out OK, and I took the carb body in to a local shop where they drilled, tapped and extracted the jet. After a soak and blow-out, I re-assembled the carb, got it back the bike with the pilot screw set 2 turns out.

After sitting overnight, the gas tank was empty and the crank-case full. Looks like the petcock had started leaking, but the blocked needle valve kept the gas in the tank. Next oil change, and the addition of a fuel cut-off valve between the petcock and the carb.

The bike started and revved fine. Once there was a load on it though, acceleration, there was a little bit of surging, as it wasn’t delivering power through the full ramp-up. Once it warmed up, it wouldn’t hold idle.

I brought the pilot screw down to 1-1/2 turns, and checked the floats. They were just shy of 14mm, so I flexed the tab on their arm and got them in right at 13mm. Idle was now good, but still, when I hit the throttle on the road, I ‘d feel these drops in power while accelerating. It was rideable, but not perfect.

Next check – air filter and spark plug. Wouldn’t you know, the air filter box had gas in the bottom, and the air filter was soaked with it (and starting to deteriorate at the bottom). The spark plug had dry soot on it, and I replaced it (checking the gap). I grabbed the air filter off another bike, and boom – things are worse. It starts, it idles, it revs, but when I take off under load, it cuts out more significantly.

I’ve also checked thoroughly, and there are no curtain hooks anywhere in the bike.

Any tips of other things to check would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:22 PM   #6461
Andyinhilo
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmi View Post
2008_DR200SE_maintenance

One of my DR200SEs ended up sitting unused for about a year, with a tank full of gas.

To get it going again, I started with the battery (a flooded acid) which was empty, so I tried adding some acid and charging – no go. New battery in hand, I checked the oil level, which looked OK (no sign of gas leaking into it) cranked it over, and no go.

Next, I changed the oil, pulled the carb and sure enough it was looking gunky. Both the float bowl and top of the carb had stripped screws (thanks previous owner) so I cut slots in them, got them out and replaced them with socket head hex screws.

Inside, the carb was gunky (needle valve was literally blocked shot) and the screwdriver slot in the pilot jet was stripped to the point I couldn’t get it out (thanks again, previous owner). Everything else came out OK, and I took the carb body in to a local shop where they drilled, tapped and extracted the jet. After a soak and blow-out, I re-assembled the carb, got it back the bike with the pilot screw set 2 turns out.

After sitting overnight, the gas tank was empty and the crank-case full. Looks like the petcock had started leaking, but the blocked needle valve kept the gas in the tank. Next oil change, and the addition of a fuel cut-off valve between the petcock and the carb.

The bike started and revved fine. Once there was a load on it though, acceleration, there was a little bit of surging, as it wasn’t delivering power through the full ramp-up. Once it warmed up, it wouldn’t hold idle.

I brought the pilot screw down to 1-1/2 turns, and checked the floats. They were just shy of 14mm, so I flexed the tab on their arm and got them in right at 13mm. Idle was now good, but still, when I hit the throttle on the road, I ‘d feel these drops in power while accelerating. It was rideable, but not perfect.

Next check – air filter and spark plug. Wouldn’t you know, the air filter box had gas in the bottom, and the air filter was soaked with it (and starting to deteriorate at the bottom). The spark plug had dry soot on it, and I replaced it (checking the gap). I grabbed the air filter off another bike, and boom – things are worse. It starts, it idles, it revs, but when I take off under load, it cuts out more significantly.

I’ve also checked thoroughly, and there are no curtain hooks anywhere in the bike.

Any tips of other things to check would be greatly appreciated.
If the float needle is still flowing after you cleaned the carb, it still needs attention. it should be able to stop any fuel flow. If not, it may be rich.

The leaking petcock is suspect as well. Sometimes the vacuum diphragms will leak, and the engine and/or airbox will fill via the vacuum line, regardless of whether the carb is getting fuel.

The jets and passages in these carbs are tiny, and sometimes take more than one cleaning to unblock a stoppage.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:36 PM   #6462
FAW3
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I think one of the best moves I did was to add a fuel filter between petcock and carb. Even after I cleaned the tank twice it still catches junk. I consider it the first line of defense in what your fighting now.

I try to run Stabil or similar gas treatment in my small bikes as they don't get frequent use/fresh gas.

End of season: disconnect the fuel line before carb, turn petcock to "prime" and empty the tank into small clean container - fuel goes in my truck.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:02 PM   #6463
Jodaddy
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Just saying hello. Picked up an overpriced 01 this week to commute and blow off life. First DR but not first bike. Fun rides these 200's. I kept it at my shop last week but have since brought it home so I can get something done at work. Joe
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:45 PM   #6464
Dorito
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Thumb Racetech

I decided that the front end suspension wasn't really lighting my fire. Apparently, for all the years that the bikes been around, Racetech had never done one. So, I sent the front forks off to Racetech's R&D department. Got the bike back together and took it for some single track riding this past weekend. What a huge improvement with the new springs and gold valves!
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:59 PM   #6465
Goon310
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I decided that the front end suspension wasn't really lighting my fire. Apparently, for all the years that the bikes been around, Racetech had never done one. So, I sent the front forks off to Racetech's R&D department. Got the bike back together and took it for some single track riding this past weekend. What a huge improvement with the new springs and gold valves!
If you don't mind me asking, what did that run you?
I've been dreaming up putting a KTM 200 front end on this thing, with a big 8'' Baja Designs race light and a works performance rear shock. Light weight do-it-all set up. LOL! Just too much $$$ for that though.

I got my bike running right now, bumped up the needle one notch and it's great now. Quick ride around town and no bogging, gets up to 45MPH no sweat!
Renthal CR-high bars are great, FMF exhaust is LOUD! though.
Kenda K270 rear is nice, need to get one on the front now, too.

Saw what I think was a DR650 today ride by me, same color combo as my bike.

Fun little bike!
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