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Old 03-17-2013, 11:30 AM   #6496
Jodaddy
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Location: Missoula, MT
Oddometer: 77
Two weeks and I finally finished reading the whole thread. I am fairly new to wrenching on MC s but I have been working on my cars and lawn mowers weed wackers, etc for years. My 01 is the newest bike I have worked on. I own 2 xr100's both which I bought in pieces so I am familiar with the 4strke singles. This dr is the first running bike i have ever bought. I pull the valve cover to adjust the valves on the Hondas but I see the dr has those two inspection plugs. Do I pull the valve cover on the dr to adjust the valves or just those plugs? Thanks, joe
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #6497
Joelness
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just the plugs
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:42 AM   #6498
bradluke0
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Hi all ! Does anyone know if the cylinder is plated or just an iron bore??
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:26 PM   #6499
Goon310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Codyp1814 View Post
You can be easily fooled on where it is exactly leaking. I had the same leak up around there and I thought first it the camshaft plug, then the front valve cap seal, then rear valve cap seal, so I just replaced all 3 seals. I still don't totally know which one it was.

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...EAD/parts.html

Buy #16 (comes with both front and rear seals) and #17 (cam plug).
Well, it's not terrible, just seeping, Luckily.
No puddles under the bike or anything like that.
I'll bookmark this link and will buy the seals if it becomes a major issue.
For now it seems "ok" since I tightened it up a bit and changed to a thicker oil.

Gonna do the baby powder trick tomorrow, too!

Appreciate everyone's help and quick answers.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:58 AM   #6500
bradluke0
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Hi all! The dealer looked in the service manual and Suzuki says to replace the cylinder if it is scratched or otherwise damaged , so that tells me it is a plated cylinder . So , do I reuse the rings or install new rings and hope they seat? The used rings have almost no wear and are at the "tight" spot of the specs . My intuition tells me just to put it back the way it was , not sure the new rings will seat against an un-honed cylinder wall. Goon310......I would not use 20-50 in this motor unless I was in Death Valley . 10-40 gives better flow through the engine , especially the bearings .
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #6501
Goon310
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Well, it's been running fine with 20-50 in it.
This isn't a new bike, and it has been rode hard.
I won't get into a big argument about oil, everyone has their prefference.
But I don't really believe in a true conventiol 10-40, most 10-40 has thinner in it to get it that way.

We shall see.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:16 AM   #6502
Jodaddy
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Well I need someone to tell me the trick of getting the feeler gauges in those inspection holes to check the valves. Thanks, joe and also how many marks are on the flywheel? I only see 1

Jodaddy screwed with this post 03-18-2013 at 09:27 AM
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:39 AM   #6503
Jodaddy
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Disregard my last posts. I guess there are 2 marks. A lot easier to adjust/check when the your actually at tdc. I also learned that the flywheel is wet. On all my other bikes this meant the crank seal needed replacement. Someday I'll catch up with technology. Thanks. Joe
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:07 PM   #6504
Sateev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodaddy View Post
Disregard my last posts. I guess there are 2 marks. A lot easier to adjust/check when the your actually at tdc. I also learned that the flywheel is wet. On all my other bikes this meant the crank seal needed replacement. Someday I'll catch up with technology. Thanks. Joe
One mark, but you can see it on compression (when the valves are closed) OR during overlap. So it should be "actually at tdc ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE".

As for the feeler gauges, try to find ones with narrower, tapered ends, and bend the one you need about 45 degrees, 3/4" from the end. It will slip in much easier that way. It's nesrly impossible to do with the standard width feeler gauges.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #6505
Jodaddy
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Guess I better try again. Does the mark on the flywheel have an "0" at the top of it? Thanks, Joe
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:50 PM   #6506
Jodaddy
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So I did it again and now I have rattlesnakes in the motor instead of squirrels. Tapping like crazy. Any insight here? Pic of the flywheel mark? I might just pull the whole cover tomorrow so I can see the cam and cam sprocket while I rotate the motor. Lobes down and piston up marks on flwheel and cover aligning should be tdc. Think I need a can of patience before I touch another wrench. Thanks. Joe
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #6507
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodaddy View Post
So I did it again and now I have rattlesnakes in the motor instead of squirrels. Tapping like crazy. Any insight here? Pic of the flywheel mark? I might just pull the whole cover tomorrow so I can see the cam and cam sprocket while I rotate the motor. Lobes down and piston up marks on flwheel and cover aligning should be tdc. Think I need a can of patience before I touch another wrench. Thanks. Joe

I don't have a picture of the mark, but I think it's just a hashmark on the flywheel. Watch the motion of the valves as you slowly turn the motor counter-clockwise. Shortly after the intake valve closes, the hashmark should come around. Make sure the spark plug is out so the engine's easy to turn.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #6508
Jodaddy
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That is exactly how i did it. Round three here we go. Thanks everybody for your help. Joe
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:47 PM   #6509
Jodaddy
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Much better. Squirrels are back. Took a bent feeler to get in there for me feel comfortable with the settings. Thanks again for the help. Ive got one more question. What is your favorite online parts store and why? Cheap is good but service and getting the proper parts is more important to me.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:54 PM   #6510
Klay
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I usually just order from Bikebandit. Shopping around a little probably could get you lower prices, but I'm lazy.
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