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Old 03-23-2013, 07:51 AM   #6526
AleXtz
Minimal2 the fulness
 
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Volcanos of Mex. City
Oddometer: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codyp1814 View Post
You can be easily fooled on where it is exactly leaking. I had the same leak up around there and I thought first it the camshaft plug, then the front valve cap seal, then rear valve cap seal, so I just replaced all 3 seals. I still don't totally know which one it was.

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...EAD/parts.html

Buy #16 (comes with both front and rear seals) and #17 (cam plug).

Finally my buddy/mechanic has done some service to my 33K miles DR. What was done:

-Instead of putting yamaha bond on the valve cover junction we have made a gasket out of a special kind of carboard, and a got as well a gasket for the crankcase cover.

-replaced #16 & #17 from the link above

-got valve adjustment

-installed a new oem gas petcock

-the gas tank had a small crack right in the area where you screw it to the bike's frame. Got it welded, no paint was messed!! a great job done there too.

- With little help of the buddies from the russian djebel forum located this other big source of leaking. Its a gap developed in the sensor. Some of them agreed to replace #33, #34 and #35 from this website http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...QOW0DvRUfEMvTQ





My mechanic just filled this gap with the kind of carboard for making gaskets to create pressure and push back




Observations:

The previous owner splatted all over yamaha bond, but the shit was still fresh! Thats why the oil inside was easily spitted through. My mechanic told me that when applying bond, it has dry a little bit, then tight all screws around.

No more gas smell in my parking, no more drippings all over. Now the engine runs smooth, sounds better when driving. Can fill that phat ass tank now.

So now its just enjoying Thanks a lot guys from advrider and djebel-club.ru ...

Well almost... now the rear shock squeaks. That noise is driving me nuckin futs... How bad it could be?

-Alejandro
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2008 Suzuki DR200SE
2008 Yamaha XTZ 125

2+1 months living in Oaxaca's sierras and beaches:
http://motoviajero.com/foros/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2695
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:39 PM   #6527
Kleio
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Joined: Jan 2013
Oddometer: 17
Kientech stock exhaust mod

Has anyone had the Kientech stock exhaust mod done?


How did you ship your exhaust to them (UPS, FedEx)? How did you package it? What was the cost of shipping?


What was the turnaround time? How did they ship it back to you? Did you have to pay the return shipping cost?


Are you satisfied with the results of the mod?



Thanks.


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Old 03-23-2013, 07:47 PM   #6528
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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I sent mine via UPS, don't remember how much it cost. I'm very happy with the mod, and it doesn't make the muffler much louder. I think shipping back to me was part of his cost.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:30 PM   #6529
miniroot
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Oddometer: 355
Fitting a DF200 (NZ "farm bike") rack to a DR200SE

Hey, guys.

Long time no read. I've just got the old DR200SE out of mothballs to take me out into the bush to do some hunting. I recall a while back there was some interest in the DF200 "farm" bikes we get down here in NZ, and in the sweet front and rear racks they're equipped with. I recall someone here (Karl?) having a really nice DF200 all done up in military OD green, in fact.

I bought a front and rear pair of racks for my SE way back when but they weren't a bolt-on fit if I wanted to keep the bike legal, which at the time I did.

But my 200 was demoted to dedicated trail bike a while back, hasn't been legal for some time. And, as I got round to fitting the rear rack this weekend I thought you guys might be interested in the write-up I did:



http://christophereece.blogspot.co.n...i-dr200se.html

Enjoy!

I hope we're all keep them rubber-side down and dirty.

Cheers,

Chris.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:57 PM   #6530
Kleio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I sent mine via UPS, don't remember how much it cost. I'm very happy with the mod, and it doesn't make the muffler much louder. I think shipping back to me was part of his cost.
When you shipped it to Kientech, how did you box it? Did you happen to have a box with the correct dimensions? Did you have to add the packing peanuts?

Sorry to be asking so many questions, but I'm thinking of doing the jet kit/exhaust mod and trying to get as much information as I can.

Thanks.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:06 PM   #6531
Klay
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I think I just picked a random box that fit and stuffed in clumped up newspaper around the muffler on all sides.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:19 AM   #6532
Goon310
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: California
Oddometer: 52
With heavier oil, my leaking stopped.
But my shifting felt very clunky.
So I switched back to 10-40, semi-synthetic 'cause thats all Cycle Gear had when I was in.
Works fine, it still "leaks" but its more like a slight film of oil at the top of the cylinder head. Almost like condensation, but oil.
It's really not noticeable, but I'll probably end up getting the gaskets.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:42 AM   #6533
bradluke0
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Tampa , Fl
Oddometer: 161
Hi all ! My experiance with heavy oils mirror yours . On a older Suzuki I had , the oil temp went up by 25 deg when we changed it from 20-50 to 10-40. The shifting was bad also with the heavier oil. BTW , found a pic of a DR200 motor online and reinstalled my cam chain tensioner , it goes in with the piston on the bottom right side . Motor runs perfect with no leaks .

bradluke0 screwed with this post 04-01-2013 at 05:59 PM
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:59 AM   #6534
blaster11
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Southern Maryland
Oddometer: 6,303
Quote:
Originally Posted by miniroot View Post
Hey, guys.

Long time no read. I've just got the old DR200SE out of mothballs to take me out into the bush to do some hunting. I recall a while back there was some interest in the DF200 "farm" bikes we get down here in NZ, and in the sweet front and rear racks they're equipped with. I recall someone here (Karl?) having a really nice DF200 all done up in military OD green, in fact.

I bought a front and rear pair of racks for my SE way back when but they weren't a bolt-on fit if I wanted to keep the bike legal, which at the time I did.

But my 200 was demoted to dedicated trail bike a while back, hasn't been legal for some time. And, as I got round to fitting the rear rack this weekend I thought you guys might be interested in the write-up I did:


http://christophereece.blogspot.co.n...i-dr200se.html

Enjoy!

I hope we're all keep them rubber-side down and dirty.

Cheers,

Chris.

Nice write up and good looking rack!
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:18 PM   #6535
VenomRS4
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Massachusetts
Oddometer: 6
Hey all, I just joined the dr200se club. I picked up an 05' with 1k miles on it. So far, I love the bike. I plan on doing the kientech exhaust mod, airbox mod, and jet it...as well as going up one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket so I can get a little higher cruising speed. I'd also like to get a rack and a skid plate...but these will come later. Anyway, I'm from Central Massachusetts and that is where I do most of my riding. If anyone is in the area, shoot me a pm...im always down to tear it up!

Heres a few pics of the bike in the old Rutland Prison Camps (really cool place, lots of history) and the Sterling powerlines trail which is a nice challenging place to ride.








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Old 04-08-2013, 07:53 PM   #6536
Kleio
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Eh? Wanted: Instructions for installing Kientech jet kit

Just received the Kientech jet kit in the mail and I am surprised at the sparse instructions that came along with it.

There are five pages, each with a black and white photograph and some text describing what is in the photograph. However, I was hoping step by step instructions on how to install each of the components of the jet kit.

One of the pages which shows the fuel screw contains the follow line: "drilling the epa plug out for removal of the stock fuel screw". Say what? What am I supposed to drill out? How am I supposed to do this?

I also wish there had been some explanation on how to actually remove the carburetor from the bike.

Is there some site (blog, etc.) I can go to get some more detailed instructions?

Thanks.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:08 PM   #6537
Klay
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There's a port on the underside of the carb just forward of the float bowl where the fuel screw resides. There's a brass plug in the port. The fuel screw is behind it. You need to get the plug out so you can remove the fuel screw. What most people do is carefully drill a hole in the plug so you can turn in a machine screw in the hole to get a grip on the plug and yank it out. The trick is to not drill too far and let the drill bit damage the screw recessed underneath the plug. Turn the carb sideways and you'll see the port. Maybe you'll be lucky and somebody will already have taken the plug out. But it's not really a big deal to get it out. If it's out, you'll see the slotted head of the fuel screw. If it's still there, you'll see the blank face of the plug.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:10 PM   #6538
Klay
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Oddometer: 98,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleio View Post

I also wish there had been some explanation on how to actually remove the carburetor from the bike.

You don't need to remove the carb...just take the throttle cables off and loosen the screws that hold the rubber manifold and the airbox on the carb and rotate the carb 90 degrees so you can remove the float bowl screws.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:40 PM   #6539
Kleio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
You don't need to remove the carb...just take the throttle cables off and loosen the screws that hold the rubber manifold and the airbox on the carb and rotate the carb 90 degrees so you can remove the float bowl screws.
Thanks for your quick response!

On one of the photographs they show the tip of fuel screw "tower" being "trimmed" with a hack saw blade. Is this how you did it? Is it possible to use a Dremel circular saw instead?

Thanks again!
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:48 PM   #6540
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleio View Post
Thanks for your quick response!

On one of the photographs they show the tip of fuel screw "tower" being "trimmed" with a hack saw blade. Is this how you did it? Is it possible to use a Dremel circular saw instead?

Thanks again!

You could use a Dremel tool. Just make sure you don't get any metal dust in the carb...i.e. make sure there's a fuel screw installed to keep the particles out. I put the new jets in two DR200s...one needed the tower ground down a little and on the other, the Kientech screw fit without any grinding. I think I actually just used a file to take down the one that needed it a little.
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