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Old 04-23-2013, 07:47 PM   #6586
Klay
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Originally Posted by northsouth15 View Post
1.) how do you drain the gas properly?

I just figured out the fuel petcock doesn't have an "off" position...

the fuel line to the carb is also pretty short, so I was going to yank it off the tank, and quickly put on another hosed (piped into a gas can), then let it drain...might get a little messy, so I was hoping there's a better way

2.) what size is the fuel line?

I want to extend the line and install an in-line fuel filter in case any residual crap from the old gas gets into the carbs

3.) what's the easiest way to clean out the pilot circuit?

after the gas is drained, I need to pull the float bowl off to clean the pilot jet; can I just unhook the fuel line, then just twist the carb enough to get the screws off and the bowl off to access the pilot jet?
The petcock is vacuum operated, which means the fuel flow shuts off when the engine isn't running unless you switch it to "prime," which lets fuel run freely.

You could attach a hose that runs to a fuel can to the petcock and switch it to prime to drain the tank. There's a valve (Phillips head tap) on the float bowl to drain the float bowl.

Just take the old hose with you when you go to buy a new length of hose.

You have to take out the pilot jet and clean it. I soak parts in a 50/50 mix of Pine Sol and water overnight. It works really well.

You have to take the throttle cables off to allow the carb to twist enough to get the float bowl off.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:52 PM   #6587
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Originally Posted by Kleio View Post
I perused the internet and I found out that the air/fuel mixture can be made leaner by moving the clip on the needle up. I currently have it set on the third notch as it as sent to me by Kientech.

What do you think of moving the clip to the highest (leanest) slot? Do you think it will have enough of an effect?

Thanks.
That should have a large effect. But I don't understand what happened to require such a change if it was running well before the Kientech jets. The jets aren't that much richer.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:31 PM   #6588
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Originally Posted by Klay View Post
The petcock is vacuum operated, which means the fuel flow shuts off when the engine isn't running unless you switch it to "prime," which lets fuel run freely.

You could attach a hose that runs to a fuel can to the petcock and switch it to prime to drain the tank. There's a valve (Phillips head tap) on the float bowl to drain the float bowl.

Just take the old hose with you when you go to buy a new length of hose.

You have to take out the pilot jet and clean it. I soak parts in a 50/50 mix of Pine Sol and water overnight. It works really well.

You have to take the throttle cables off to allow the carb to twist enough to get the float bowl off.
much thanks!

I didn't know setting it to "on" will effectively be the same thing as "off"

can I replace this sort of petcock with a standard on/off manual petcock?

mine is leaking...and generic petcocks are much cheaper...and if so - what happens to the black hose that connects to the carb and comes out of the back of the petcock?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:36 PM   #6589
Klay
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Originally Posted by northsouth15 View Post
much thanks!

I didn't know setting it to "on" will effectively be the same thing as "off"
Yes, if it's working right. After a number of years, the petcock will fail and let gas run continuously into the carb or through the vacuum hose into the intake tract.

Quote:
can I replace this sort of petcock with a standard on/off manual petcock?

mine is leaking...and generic petcocks are much cheaper...and if so - what happens to the black hose that connects to the carb and comes out of the back of the petcock?

Yes, there are a number of cheap alternative petcocks. They work fine. You have to plug up that extra hose...it's the vacuum line. If you didn't plug it up, it would lean out the mixture and let unfiltered dust into the combustion chamber. I just use a little rubber cap to cap off the port on the carb if I've got a bike where I want to switch to a manual petcock.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:36 AM   #6590
northsouth15
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got some of the gas drained! not surprisingly, the fuel petcock in the "on" position still leaks a little gas...but it's okay, I just plugged a 1/4" fuel line on one end and connected the other end into the petcock

was browsing through the thread and saw the TTR fuel petcock too - but I got impatient yesterday and just bought the first one I saw on ebay:



now, do I have to take off the airbox to get the carb off?

I was able to get the float bowl off by unhooking the CA emissions canister, loosening the carb clamps and spinning it both ways to get the screws out, the pilot jet itself was clear, and I was able to spray some carb cleaner into the carb circuits...

but the damn thing still won't start

when I bought it - I was able to start it, but only ran 1/2-wot...it wouldn't idle...I figured it was the pilot circuit. But the jet itself is clear...so I'm going to get a spark plug wrench and new plug this week, but if that doesn't work, I will be giving the carb a good overnight soak/hand cleaning
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #6591
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nevermind...back to the basics - new plug and she lives!!

when I cut the throttle, however, the idle speed hovers before it drops to the right speed...any ideas?

if I recall correctly, that's usually a sticking part in the carb or a vacuum leak
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:51 AM   #6592
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That's what I hear...
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:00 PM   #6593
northsouth15
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took it for a night street ride to start getting used to her...still not sure what's wrong with the hanging idle (and once it drops to the lower idle speed it putters and stalls)

I still think it could use a better carb cleaning, I'll pull it off sometime in the near future and give it a go

I rode the first 1/2 hour short shifting it - didn't realize you can rev it out, she'll do 70mph indicated!

does it have some sort of easy-out clutch? she didn't like being clutched into a wheelie...while 1st gear: *burp*off*burp*off*braaaap* was the only way I could get her to get up
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:45 PM   #6594
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wow...holy great hooligan machine!!!

step 1: ride 4th gear, cruising
step 2: slow down for turn
step 3: downshift, don't brake, let out clutch
step 4: squeeeeeeeeeal tires before turning!!

I think I know why my idle speed hovers - the pilot jet is still clogged and I'm compensating with a high seated slide. I have the idle screw cranked pretty high, and if it's just pushing the slide up to get the bike to idle, then it's also letting in too much air/fuel upon deceleration

when I dropped the idle speed screw, the rpm's drop properly (indicating that the slide was sitting too high), but it won't idle (indicating the pilot circuit is clogged)

I will have to take off that carb soon and give it a good cleaning...

new air filter and petcock on the way!
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #6595
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petcock is in!

unlike most petcocks, the reserve isn't a shorter tube - there's no 2nd tube at all. It's a 2nd hole that's right on the petcock - so it'll allow you to use more gas from the tank if you get stranded

anyone have a good cheap protip for plugging the vacuum hose from the carb? I was just going to put a screw into there, but air can leak around the threads...a rubber cap on the carb (think of what you put on a bleeder valve for a car's brakes), or maybe a valve stem cap might work too

I snuck onto a gravel road with the OEM trailwings...and they're super sketchy! not a whole lot of hook up or confidence in them

how do you guys feel about trials tires?

I heard the traction outstanding and longevity is good

northsouth15 screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 10:31 AM
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:57 AM   #6596
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suzuki genuine parts!



well...the airfilter is...

the old one was original...after 14 years it was crumbling apart!

here's the new manual petcock - right next to the main gas tube is where the reserve fuel goes in



after this current tank gets low (which will be in about 250 miles considering the fuel efficiency of this bike!), I'll drain the rest of the gas, swap the petcock, and install the fuel line filter with a longer fuel line (I believe it's a 1/4" ID)
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:18 PM   #6597
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Originally Posted by Klay View Post
That should have a large effect. But I don't understand what happened to require such a change if it was running well before the Kientech jets. The jets aren't that much richer.
I moved the clip on the needle to the highest (first) slot and now my DR200SE runs much better. The exhaust is much cleaner. The idle is much crisper and doesn't die at stop lights. The engine still cuts out at around 50 mph but not much and not often.

Now I'm worried that it might be too lean. What are the symptoms if it is too lean? What are the pitfalls of running too lean? Perhaps I should move the clip to the second slot.

Thanks.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:32 PM   #6598
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleio View Post
I moved the clip on the needle to the highest (first) slot and now my DR200SE runs much better. The exhaust is much cleaner. The idle is much crisper and doesn't die at stop lights. The engine still cuts out at around 50 mph but not much and not often.

Now I'm worried that it might be too lean. What are the symptoms if it is too lean? What are the pitfalls of running too lean? Perhaps I should move the clip to the second slot.

Thanks.
It could conceivably run too hot if it's too lean. Checking the mixture would involve reading the plug. It might be easier to just try the second slot.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #6599
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I'm still trying to find its traction limits before I start comfortably pushing it into turns, and I'm starting with rear tire through aggressive downshifting and braking. But I'm noticing that when the rear slides, it hardly tracks straight and often kicks to one side...so I need to be careful.

today, as I was turning (off a main road) to my apartment, I almost low sided it after the rear swung out to the right...easy now! I think I know when they'll wash, so I'll dial it back from here

on the plus side - the OEM bridgestones weren't even scrubbed in by the previous owner; so riding on them more is definitely giving them more grip, which makes me more confident on the street and more able to push it into turns

previous threads indicate that it doesn't wheelie at all - not true! I got 1st gear to ride about 15 feet today...with a little more practice I can likely get it close to the balance point and ride slow wheelies...then onto 2nd and 3rd!
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:44 AM   #6600
AleXtz
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Originally Posted by inuvik View Post

I liked that rack, do you have more pics of it? a friend of mine has a single rack and says it had its subframe cracked. Want to install a tough one on my dr

The passenger fits alright?

thanx!
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