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Old 07-29-2013, 06:31 PM   #7141
Joelness
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I have no first hand experience with the 250 but I would say that my DR is much more maintenance intensive than the half a dozen Hondas I've owned. My DR has been very good within the confines of the maintenance schedule and it's intended use, but my Hondas have been woefully neglected and ridiculously abused without giving me any more trouble.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:38 AM   #7142
The_Precious_Juice
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Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelness View Post
I have no first hand experience with the 250 but I would say that my DR is much more maintenance intensive than the half a dozen Hondas I've owned. My DR has been very good within the confines of the maintenance schedule and it's intended use, but my Hondas have been woefully neglected and ridiculously abused without giving me any more trouble.

yeah, from what I've read on this thread, the every 2,000 mile oil changes of the DR200se would cut into the savings in gasoline, and be an extra choir on the road.
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I looked into the Legacy. This would be a great car for such a trip. It would actually make more since to get a used car like this. You could leave her by her self and feel good about no one trying to take her. Plus, the Alaska roads can age a car quick. Better a mission specific vehicle than a vehicle you want for 10 years down the road.
Good stuff.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:46 PM   #7143
JerryH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelness View Post
I have no first hand experience with the 250 but I would say that my DR is much more maintenance intensive than the half a dozen Hondas I've owned. My DR has been very good within the confines of the maintenance schedule and it's intended use, but my Hondas have been woefully neglected and ridiculously abused without giving me any more trouble.
What is the difference in maintenance between the Suzuki and the Honda? I don't want the CRF for a lot of reasons. I don't want the liquid cooling, I don't want FI, and I need more range. I specifically want old tech. As for oil changes, I have an XT225, and change the oil in it at LEAST every 1000 miles, more often if riding in dusty conditions, like the AZ desert. It only holds a qt. and has no replaceable filter. A $12 5 qt. jug of SuperTech 20w40 is good for 5 oil changes. I am an absolute fanatic about keeping clean oil in my engines. I am an auto mechanic, and I have seen to many times the results of people not changing to oil often enough. Car engines completely destroyed in 100,000 miles of 10,000 mile oil changes. Change it every 3,000 miles/3 months, and the same engine will go 300,000 miles.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:22 PM   #7144
northsouth15
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took the DR200se to trails in socal - hungry valley ORV

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKvQ...ature=youtu.be

it kept up well enough with the 250/450 purpose built bikes!













Knarly hill climbs!!











Hans - remember this?





Aside from the issues I had at the end of the day, the DR on the OEM tires did really good for a dual sport!




northsouth15 screwed with this post 07-30-2013 at 05:44 PM
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:37 PM   #7145
FAW3
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Carb? issues and questions...

The DR is my wife's bike and it is doing very well by her. This past weekend I took it out and found one issue that I want to address: the engine starts to stumble at what I would estimate is 90% of full RPM (in any gear). Otherwise...the engine starts easily W/O throttle and generally 1/2 choke, idles fine, and low & mid range pulls/performs and sounds smooth & fine. I can get a mild pop sometimes on deceleration - if I just chop the throttle closed. As far as I can tell the jets are factory (main is 125, the pilot I do did not check). Bike has new clean air filter and we are running from sea level to about 3,000 feet altitude, bike has 2k miles on it and is a '96. The carb is clean.

My thought is that I'm lean...I don't want to go for new exhaust or other "performance" mods...just want a good standard set up for the carb. I am thinking about going to the next size up on the Main (127.5) and even perhaps the pilot jet (but don't know the OEM size on it).

Thoughts on this? Anyone have the OEM size for the pilot jet?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #7146
Jodaddy
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Stock pj is 35.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:16 PM   #7147
73Mustang
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As y'all already know, the little DR rocks. Took mine to Colorado: 13,000 feet. It kicked butt. Shorter gearing would be nice. Even with stock gearing, it tractored up the mountains, with a some clutch work.

Low seat height means I can dab on the side of the mountain and maintain confidence. Ginormous 3.5 gallon fuel tank means never have to worry about running out of gas.

Glad I didn't get the CRF. The DR is a much better bike.


73Mustang screwed with this post 07-30-2013 at 07:21 PM
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:55 PM   #7148
Jodaddy
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Good ole CO Land of hippies trusties rednecks as well as home to the christian coalition. Fine place to blow off life. You pay the price to live in paradise.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:06 AM   #7149
73Mustang
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My DR's foot brake started clunking intermittently, after I reinstalled the rear wheel to change the tire. The sound is difficult to reproduce. It's random. Sometimes, I step on the brake, and it clunk. The, it won't do it again for a long time, like 15 minutes.

Anybody got idea ?

73Mustang screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 10:14 AM
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:32 AM   #7150
JayGoldstein
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Shifting problem: I think I've found the answer

I took a 2 hour ride yesterday to focus on shifting. What I found is that my DR's transmission doesn't respond well to hurried downshifts. At least on my bike the key to successful downshifts is to push slowly (but firmly) on the shift lever rather than trying to force the transmission into a lower gear.

By paying attention to feedback through the shift lever I could tell when to wait for a downshift to be completed (rather than continuing to push on the lever because nothing seems to be happening). By concentrating on what the transmission was doing I was even able to go reliably from 2nd gear into neutral when coming to a stop.

I'm optimistic that by perfecting my technique missed downshifts will be few and far between.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:19 AM   #7151
73Mustang
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I've owned quite a few small bikes. And the little DR is the worst shifting transmission. I pretty much have to match the engine and wheel speed every time. And double/triple clutch. It's not a big deal on the road once you get used to it. But I think for a newbie, this would be very frustrating. Shifting on this bike requires too much effort. Would be difficult on gnarly terrain, when you don't have time to rev match. You just have to slam it into gear. It's hard to believe Suzuki sold millions of these DR and they all have this problem. Or maybe this is a recent problem. Like improved manufacturing process reduced tolerances too much...so now it's so tight, it won't shift right.

73Mustang screwed with this post 07-31-2013 at 10:25 AM
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:44 AM   #7152
JayGoldstein
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[QUOTE=73Mustang;21996402]I've owned quite a few small bikes. And the little DR is the worst shifting transmission. I pretty much have to match the engine and wheel speed every time. And double/triple clutch. It's not a big deal on the road once you get used to it. But I think for a newbie, this would be very frustrating. /QUOTE]

I've been riding for about 40 years, so it's not just the newbies that have to adapt to the DR's idiosyncratic transmission.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:31 PM   #7153
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73Mustang View Post
My DR's foot brake started clunking intermittently, after I reinstalled the rear wheel to change the tire. The sound is difficult to reproduce. It's random. Sometimes, I step on the brake, and it clunk. The, it won't do it again for a long time, like 15 minutes.

Anybody got idea ?
Check the brake torque link bolts.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:38 PM   #7154
OzarkDave
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Same noise

I got the same noise on my bike after changing the rear tire. Never have found what it is.

Dave
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:20 PM   #7155
Andyinhilo
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Clutch Issues

For those of you having shifting trouble, and you are sure that your clutches are not dragging due to warped plates, I suggest that you check the position of the lever on the shaft where it enters the case. It should ideally form a 90 degree angle with the cable, when the clutch lever is pulled all the way in. If not, remove it and replace it a tooth away from the cable, so that it pulls the actuator lever towards 90 degrees, but not past 90. Adjust the cable mid-point adjustment accordingly.

My 200 never gave me any trouble about shifting, but I did have to adjust the lever position not long after acquiring the bike.
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