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Old 07-03-2007, 04:33 AM   #121
steve gs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K44rll
Djebel
Thanks to all for the sharing of this particular model. But the question I have is the meaning of the word, anyone know.
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Old 07-03-2007, 10:27 AM   #122
K44rll
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I think it's Arabic for mountain range?


Djebel Chelia (Arabic: جبل شيليا) is the highest point in the Al-Qabail Mountains that straddle the border between Algeria and Tunisia, and the second highest peak in Algeria after Mount Tahat.

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Old 07-03-2007, 06:38 PM   #123
MoroccoMole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer dual sports
Hi to all, just got a 96 dr200se. It had the infamous carb problems, previous owner installed a carb kit and never set it up right. I don't have a service manual yet. So, does anyone know what the float settings, should be? also any idea what to set the mixture screw to as a baseline?? Previous owner took to mixture screw out for carb cleaning. Just trying to get it running acceptable for this upcoming weekend. Thanks for your time.
Remove the carb. take the bowl off. Turn it upsidedown. Eyeball your floats carefully. (Now follow me carefully on this thought process.) Holding the carb upside down and straight with the world, look at the float assy and adjust so they are absolutely on the same plane with the carb body and make a 90degree angle to verical zero. Now put everything back together and put a piece of fuel line to your float bowl drain and bend it up to the seam where your float bowl gasket is. Open your float bowl drain.(it will fill with fuel but since your holding the open end up higher than the float bowl it will not run out.) The level of fuel in the tube should intersect the center (middle) of the carb body to floatbowl seam. This is called fuel level height and is Suzukis prefered method of setting float height. If it does not reach the seam raise the float up towards the tank( minute adjustments). and vice versa
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:42 PM   #124
killer dual sports
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200 carb/petcock issues.

Hey guy's thanks for the info. I got the float set to specs, and I got the pilot screw where it seems to be happy. The problem now is, that there is fuel dripping out of the airbox boot/clamp. Not too cool!! Is this my petcock or something else? I do believe the float is set correctly. Can I bypass the vaccume line and run it on PRIme? Or can I do an in-line valve? Any ideas inmates? I would love to take this thing out for a cruse sometime soon..... Thanks for your time and input.
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:09 AM   #125
steve gs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer dual sports
Hey guy's thanks for the info. I got the float set to specs, and I got the pilot screw where it seems to be happy. The problem now is, that there is fuel dripping out of the airbox boot/clamp. Not too cool!! Is this my petcock or something else? I do believe the float is set correctly. Can I bypass the vaccume line and run it on PRIme? Or can I do an in-line valve? Any ideas inmates? I would love to take this thing out for a cruse sometime soon..... Thanks for your time and input.


I would replace tank valve assembly (TVA). The problem is eventually with a leaking TVA the float inlet needle fails and the carb floods and fuel either enters the cyl or the trans via airbox and you'll ruin the engine. Replace the inlet needle as well.



My DR350SE has the same system but I have an additional shutoff inline with the fuel flow so I can positively shut off the fuel flow. This allows me to run the fuel out of the carb whenever bike will be shut down.

I handle the 200 a different way. I carry a drain tube and small container in the toolbox so when I am done for the day I drain the carb bowl. I almost never leave fuel in the carb bowl overnight or when transporting bike in van. As a used bike at time of purchase my 200 suffered from this problem and I'm hoping that no terminal damage was done by previous owner; so far so good.



Both methods save wear and tear on the inlet needle which I consider a "critical" component.


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Old 07-07-2007, 12:22 PM   #126
green hell
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hey klay!

did you insulate your right (exhaust side) saddlebag in any way? i have a wolfman beta bag, but i'm kind of leary of draping it over the exhaust.

while i'm at it, let me say this:

stevegs and klay, thanks so much for everything you've written about this bike. i love mine. i've got over 800 miles in just a couple of months, and every mile has been a blast. i'm looking forward to loading her up and doing some minimalist touring. the simplicity and starkness of the bike is beautiful to behold.

i hope that someday i can contribute to this thread as much as you two have.

thanks for your time and efforts.
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Old 07-07-2007, 12:53 PM   #127
Klay
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Tweeker,

Thanks for your comments. Thanks for your little ride reports you have been making with the 200. Both Steve and I have the Happy Trails pannier racks on the back of the bike. This holds the right-hand bag about an inch or an inch and a half away from the exhaust. I monitored the heat on the inner wall of the affected bag and it never warmed up very much.

I wouldn't let your panniers drape over the bike in direct contact with the heat shield on the muffler. I'm almost certain they would overheat like that. I'm sure you wouldn't have to get all fancy and order a Happy Trails rack like I did...you could make some kind of guard to hold the bag clear of the muffler.

I finally cured the slight off-idle roughness the bike was experiencing. I took the carb apart, including the pilot screw, and sprayed the passages with carb cleaner, blew out the carb with compressed air, and reassembled. It's running like magic again. I was careful to remove all the O-rings and plastic parts I could find in the carb so they wouldn't get damaged by the carb cleaner. (Gunk brand) Even so, there were probably a few parts I missed, so I kept the exposure to the cleaner brief and blew out the excess with compressed air immediately.

It's so convenient to work on the 200 because of its simplicity. I didn't even remove the carb to clean it. I just took the throttle cable off and loosened the clamps on the boots and rotated the carb 90 degrees so I could remove the float bowl and the diaphragm cover. Then the carb itself is so simple on the inside.

Another issue I had was with shifting. A month or two ago, I decided to start using some higher quality oil, for some reason. I switched to a semi-synthetic blend. The transmission became notchy and difficult to shift...hard to find neutral and hard to downshift when coming to a stop. I switched back to regular petroleum-based 10W-40 car oil and the problem instantly went away. I don't have the manual in front of me, but I believe all it recommends is that 10W-40 motor oil rated SJ or better in the motor. Duh, just do what the service manual recommends. When it only takes a quart to change the oil, it's not very wasteful to change the oil often.

I love the 200, too. I've been riding every day the last week and a half but haven't taken out any of my other bikes. I wandered 100 miles on (mostly) gravel on Wednesday.

Quote:
the simplicity and starkness of the bike is beautiful to behold.
I agree, you've got that right, simplicity and carefree fun.
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:07 PM   #128
green hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Another issue I had was with shifting. A month or two ago, I decided to start using some higher quality oil, for some reason. I switched to a semi-synthetic blend. The transmission became notchy and difficult to shift...hard to find neutral and hard to downshift when coming to a stop. I switched back to regular petroleum-based 10W-40 car oil and the problem instantly went away. I don't have the manual in front of me, but I believe all it recommends is that 10W-40 motor oil rated SJ or better in the motor. Duh, just do what the service manual recommends. When it only takes a quart to change the oil, it's not very wasteful to change the oil often.
i changed my oil at 600 miles to amsoil m/c 10w-40. shifting is much improved. my only complaint is when you stop the bike (to take pictures for instance), getting it out of neutral can be a bother. i have to rev the engine a bit, then it snaps right into first. this condition also existed with the oem oil.

it is kinda funny to put one quart of oil in and be done.

glad you got your carb issue resolved.
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:13 PM   #129
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweeker43
getting it out of neutral can be a bother. i have to rev the engine a bit, then it snaps right into first. this condition also existed with the oem oil.
Hmm, mine didn't do that when new. Maybe yours will loosen up with a few more miles. It's not abnormal to have to blip the throttle sometimes to get things spinning to slip into gear from neutral, though. Is the clutch cable adjusted so the clutch plates fully disengage?
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:29 PM   #130
green hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Hmm, mine didn't do that when new. Maybe yours will loosen up with a few more miles. It's not abnormal to have to blip the throttle sometimes to get things spinning to slip into gear from neutral, though. Is the clutch cable adjusted so the clutch plates fully disengage?
i just went out and snugged it up about .100", so after a test ride i'll let you know.

the clutch did seem kind of sloppy, now that you mention it.

thanks!
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Old 07-08-2007, 05:25 AM   #131
steve gs
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I want to ditto your comments on the synthetic oil performance. But I also have noticed a hot oil related shift perfomance fall off with mineral.



I also tried Amsoil 10W-40 and had the same experience (even in cooler temps). I tried it one time and then went back to BMW's Special Performance which is just Spectro's mineral. I use this in all my bikes that call for a 10W-40 because I started with this in my F650GSD.

Also, when I purchased my DR350SE the previous owner had Amsoil 10W-40 in engine (only 2000 miles, way too soon) and indicated he found the shifting to be more difficult. It was due for an oil change at time of purchase and I converted it over to mineral. But you may want to try other synthetics (after the 3000-4000 mile point so you have good piston/ring/cyl break-in) like from Spectro or Mobil. It may be a function of oil temp, so for peak summer temps you may want to try a 15W-50 (mineral) which I'm going to try next change (soon) in the 200. The 350 and 650 are fine as they are on 10W-40).


Don't forget on high mileage DR's the clutch basket thrust washers have been cited as being problems; just replace.

Another thing to note is how quickly the oil darkens on the 200 (by 600-800 miles). Not sure if it is my cyl/piston condition or a temp thing. This is not the case with the 350 (air cooled w/carb) or my 650 (w/cooled w/EFI) which have 2L oil capacities. Maybe that is why some of those worldwide 200's have an oil cooler?




Yes, the darn thing is so butt-head simple to work on it's hard to believe. That also makes it easy to clean. On bike carb service, yes sir, gotta love it. Only matched by my R60/5 in ease.


Very happy with Bridgestone TW 301 and 302 fitted. The only problem is that I have been logging so many miles on them I may have them worn out before trip.



Another issue is the change in diameter and the final ratio. My old worn out TW 18 and 19 gave great performance with the 15:42 (2.8) but now with the new TW's the overall effect is a taller ratio. This was not unexpected. Wish I would have taken a circumference measurement of the old tires before removing. But, using before (5%) and after (~0%) speedo error vs GPS and a little bit of math I have gone from a 2.8 to a 2.73 final by changing tires. Contrasting a 15:40 is 2.67 and a 15:43 is 2.87 and I would have to add a tooth to the current 42T wheel sprocket to recover the true final I had before.










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Old 07-08-2007, 04:51 PM   #132
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i'm (eventually) going to buy a set of kenda 270s to replace the oe trailwings. i'm also going to pick up a spare set of tubes. are the stock tubes holding up well for everyone?

thanks
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Old 07-08-2007, 05:19 PM   #133
koyote
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Can someone reccomend a good tire and size to replace the stock trailwings. I would like something a bit larger and more suited for off road.
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Old 07-09-2007, 03:50 PM   #134
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koyote
Can someone reccomend a good tire and size to replace the stock trailwings. I would like something a bit larger and more suited for off road.
The Kenda K270 tires I am running are a little larger, but they're more like 50/50 on-off road tires. I don't know what to suggest for tires biased more for off-road.
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Old 07-14-2007, 02:11 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koyote
Can someone reccomend a good tire and size to replace the stock trailwings. I would like something a bit larger and more suited for off road.
not a recommendation per se, but just an observation.

the kenda k760 is supposed to be an 80/20 tire.

i've never used them, so i don't really know how good they are. most of what i do is 50/50 and i'm going to continue plowing around with 50/50 tires.

sizes (oe)
f 70/100-21
r 100/90-18

for the kendas above they have:
f 80/100-21
r 100/100-18

these are both a little bigger than stock, but i can't say how they'd fit.
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