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Old 04-16-2009, 07:48 PM   #1381
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damasovi
HI I am looking at the DR200 for my next bike, I had a 125 and then a 250 but know I no longer have them and I really want to go back to small and short bikes (currently I have a KLR 650, so short it is not) My biggest concern was tires, but know I read here and found kendas 270 fit, but what size?

Front:3.00 21?
Rear: 4.00, 4.10 or 4.50?

Thanks for the info.

Damasovi

PS I did look at a conversion chart for an Idea but could not get an identical match
http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcyc.../tire-data.htm
I've got a 3.00 X 21 on the front and a 4.10 X 18 on the back. These are not the exact stock sizes...they're a little fatter than stock...but they seem to work very well. I noticed that the fatter front tire brings the speedometer perfectly in line with actual speed measured via GPS. With the stock trailwing, 55 indicated was about 51 if I remember correctly.

I've had the little tyke almost eight years now, and it's running as good as the day it was new. I'm riding it to work almost every day. Soon I'm going to put in the latest Kientech jets.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:46 PM   #1382
mrchristian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
I didn't have to rejet mine for the Notoil. The DR filters are the same as for one of Suzuki's quads, LT 160 or something.

Ossa was a Spanish motorcycle years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossa_(motorcycle)
Where did you order the Notoil from? I watched the video on their site and their filters look pretty strong. It's got to be better than the paper-thin Suzuki OEM one. I think that the last shop that worked on my bike tore it when they put it back in

More motivation for me to learn how to work on my own stuff. I got a 40 piece metric socket set for $7 at autozone today.
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:14 AM   #1383
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrchristian
Where did you order the Notoil from? I watched the video on their site and their filters look pretty strong. It's got to be better than the paper-thin Suzuki OEM one. I think that the last shop that worked on my bike tore it when they put it back in

More motivation for me to learn how to work on my own stuff. I got a 40 piece metric socket set for $7 at autozone today.
I think it came from BikeBandit, IIRC. The Moose Racing one came from the local dealer. It actually looks better than the Notoil, but that one showed up first, so it went on the bike. I cant compare it to the stock one. I was rotted and crumbled in little bits as I removed it.

Good for you, learning how to work on your own stuff. You will be sure of what is and is not done, and save some $$$ at the same time. Just go slow and careful, and post up here if you're not sure of what to do!

Good luck.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:33 AM   #1384
HeReTiK
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First off:
- Got my stock DR200 knuckle covers installed. They look awesome.
- Got the Spitfire 7/8" Windshield installed. It does a great job of blocking the wind.
- Installed the Yamaha Raptor Petcock. It fit with the exception that the small rim around the bottom of the tank would have restricted the movement of the petcock if I had not trimmed and bent it back. As nice as the new petcock is, the bent piece of metal on the tank looks like shit. When I have a free day I'll drain the tank and grind off the rim. The nice thing about this petcock is that you can easily reach down while riding and turn the valve.

Back to starter problem:

I figured out how to use my multimeter! Here's what I discovered from some preliminary testing.
- First, to test the multimeter, I measured voltage across the battery. 12V. Good.
- I measured voltage TO the starter button: 12V. Good.
- I measured voltage FROM the starter button, when button is pushed. 12V. Good.
- I measured voltage for the Y/G wire that goes from the starter button to the clutch safety switch. When I push the button, it measures 12V.
- The clutch safety switch was bypassed by the previous owner, so no further testing here.

I ran out of time to do further testing but next is Sidestand switch and Neutral switch if I remember correctly. Then I need to test the solenoid. If it is a bad solenoid, it looks like I will be coughing up $50...
Thanks for all the help and pictures!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
I've had the little tyke almost eight years now, and it's running as good as the day it was new. I'm riding it to work almost every day. Soon I'm going to put in the latest Kientech jets.
I have the new kientech jets but have been putting off the install because I'm terrified of screwing up something. If you posted a step by step(with pictures?!) that would be AWESOME!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
Generally, but not always, if the solenoid is bad, you will hear it click when you press the starter button, but the starter won't work. If it clicks and the starter does not work, the solenoid/relay is bad.
No click. :(

Now, if it does not click, there should be a thin yellow wire with a black stripe (Y/B) on the solenoid. This needs to show 12V when you press the starter button. There is a thin black wire with white (B/W) stripe that is the ground.[/quote]
If I understood you correctly, the Y/G wire going TO the solenoid/relay should read 12V when starter button is pushed? Sorry I am a n00b at this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
To absolutely check the soleniod, make sure that the bike is in neutral, then using jumper wires connect the B/W wire to the negative battery terminal, and the Y/B wire to the positive. Soleniod should click, and starter should turn. No click, or click and no starter, solenoid is bad.
I gotta find some wires with aligator clips. ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
Heretik, the clutch wires should be yellow with a green (Y/G) stripe. Make sure that the harness Y/G wires are securely connected.
Thanks, clutch wires tested fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
Just curious, how have you been testing the switches to rule them out?
I was shorting connections at first, now I am testing voltage with a Multimeter. :)


HeReTiK

HeReTiK screwed with this post 04-17-2009 at 08:43 AM
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:31 AM   #1385
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeReTiK
First off:

- I measured voltage TO the starter button: 12V. Good.
- I measured voltage FROM the starter button, when button is pushed. 12V. Good.
- I measured voltage for the Y/G wire that goes from the starter button to the clutch safety switch. When I push the button, it measures 12V.
- The clutch safety switch was bypassed by the previous owner, so no further testing here.


No click. :(

Now, if it does not click, there should be a thin yellow wire with a black stripe (Y/B) on the solenoid. This needs to show 12V when you press the starter button. There is a thin black wire with white (B/W) stripe that is the ground.
If I understood you correctly, the Y/G wire going TO the solenoid/relay should read 12V when starter button is pushed? Sorry I am a n00b at this.



I gotta find some wires with aligator clips. ;)


Thanks, clutch wires tested fine.


I was shorting connections at first, now I am testing voltage with a Multimeter. :)[/quote]

You are correct. The small wires on the solenoid carry 12V when the starter button is pressed. If they have 12V, and the solenoid still won't click, it will need to be replaced.
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:37 PM   #1386
damasovi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
I've got a 3.00 X 21 on the front and a 4.10 X 18 on the back.
I've had the little tyke almost eight years now, and it's running as good as the day it was new. I'm riding it to work almost every day.
Thanks, this opens a lot of possibilities for tires, now that I know. Gracias amigo.

and how do you like it? My commute is 3.5 miles each way for a total of 3.5x4=14 miles per day, so a 200 sounds very good.

Damasovi
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:45 PM   #1387
green hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damasovi
Thanks, this opens a lot of possibilities for tires, now that I know. Gracias amigo.

and how do you like it? My commute is 3.5 miles each way for a total of 3.5x4=14 miles per day, so a 200 sounds very good.

Damasovi
i take mine 30 miles one way to commute. works out great.

head winds aren't that kind.

but i average 70 mpg even at 55~60 mph.
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Old 04-19-2009, 07:48 AM   #1388
rocketkidd777
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heretik... post some pics!! :)
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Old 04-19-2009, 08:30 PM   #1389
FlyingFinn
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A DR200, my girlfriend and someone's twisted idea of old car recycling:



The bike is a real marvel, does true 75MPH fully loaded, is easy and stable to ride and gets great fuel mileage. Every time we stopped for gas I'd put 1.5 - 2 gallons into my XChallenge and 1 - 1.5 gallons to the little DR. Amazing.

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Old 04-20-2009, 08:37 AM   #1390
Klay
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Look at the farkles on this 200




http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=455744

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Old 04-20-2009, 08:55 AM   #1391
FlyingFinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Look at the farkles on this 200

.... and the term "Pope Mobile" just took a whole new meaning.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #1392
damasovi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green hell
i take mine 30 miles one way to commute. works out great.

but i average 70 mpg even at 55~60 mph.
Thanks, so it WILL so 50-55 mph! that sounds very nice

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Old 04-20-2009, 09:33 AM   #1393
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damasovi
Thanks, so it WILL so 50-55 mph! that sounds very nice

Damasovi
Lightly loaded with no headwind and not uphill, no problem.
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:09 AM   #1394
FlyingFinn
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Sustained 75MPH on level ground. 80 indicated but true 75 on the GPS.
But that's top speed at WOT so don't count on much acceleration past 65MPH or so.

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Old 04-20-2009, 10:21 AM   #1395
HeReTiK
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I took a long trip (About 100miles round trip) yesterday, and calculated my mileage. Averaging about 53MPH, I was getting 46 miles to the gallon. This is with bald tires and dirty air filter. ;)
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