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Old 03-10-2013, 08:27 AM   #15001
Frankdozer
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Bridgton, Maine
Oddometer: 21
1996 Suzuki DR350 Value

I have a chance to purchase a 1996 Suzuki DR350 off road dirt bike that was converted to street use with a BAJA Designs street kit. He wants $600.00 for the bike. Has been stored indoors, has a few or more scratches from use. No electric start. But it's all there. Deal or No deal ? When I look at it next week is there anything special to look for. Seller says it's now registered and insured and I can take it for a ride. If I purchase it, I'll register it in either Maine or Massachusetts. Is there a benefit of either state? And will both or either accept a dirt bike with a conversion kit to be registered in that state......Thanks, Frank
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #15002
ADV BUM
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Joined: Dec 2009
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I finally got around to redoing the handlebars, hand guards and fashioning a windscreen. Sorry for the crappy picture, but it was late and I used my phone.

National cycle windscreen that I cut down some, then used some bed liner material to try and strengthen the edges and mounting points in case of a crash.

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Old 03-10-2013, 10:15 AM   #15003
NWRambler
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Northwestest US
Oddometer: 41
Ignition/Kill switch funk

Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Hooligan View Post
Have a quirk with my 96 DRSE, when I turn my ignition off the bike keeps running, the lights go out and the bike won't stop until I turn it off from the kill switch. I thought it was ok to ride like that off road, but I burnt up a cdi unit a few months ago and now I want to fix this problem.

Anyone have any ideas where to start looking?

Not sure I can help, but my 98 SE was doing the same thing. Last month I tore it down to the frame for a powdercoat and when I put it back together the problem was gone. I went through all of the wiring harness (and the rest of the bike), pulled apart every plug and sprayed contact cleaner, and worked each plug together/apart a couple of times. I also sprayed inside all the controls and switches and ignition. I also found a couple of bare spots on wires from rubbing somewhere and shrink tubed or taped them up. I wasn't even thinking about that issue, just giving the bike a little love while all the parts were easy to look over and clean up. Now, for some reason, it all works correctly. Good luck
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:00 PM   #15004
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Its back together, and runs. But still is having the same issues. Only thing different now is that is has a lot more compression. I REALLY have to stand on the kicker to get it to turn over.

But once it fires up it runs fine until it warms up then falls on its face. Pulling the choke helps some, so now it has me thinking its a carb issue again and not electrical. Bullitman281 is heading down this coming weekend for a cross country trip and will look at it. If he can't diagnose it while he's here I'm having him haul it home to CO and mess with it over the summer.
MIGHT be carb? I'd see if ya can find someone to "LOAN" you a carb and give it a whirl? Your bike problem has me wandering just as much as the rest of us..lol I mean gosh damn, sucks to see a DR go down like this, ESPECIALLY since you've done everything ya can think of and that we can all think of!! May very well be the carb?...yours runs opposite of mine..mine runs a little poopy till it gets warm then runs like a dream ( like yours used to id imagine..) Kinda seems odd though...i forget what all ya DID try doing..did you by chance try swapping the magneto? (the flywheel with magnets) Just curious..ya got me sitting in the garage lookin at my bike thinking WTF?! lol sorry dood, ill shut up now.

wait, you said this started when you put the new tank on right?...did you try putting the old one on just for shits n giggles? Could it be a FUel starvation issue?...could it be Vapor locking by chance? I dunno, just thinkin to much i suppose? Sorry again dood.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:14 PM   #15005
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Took a ride today, did some geo caching, only managed to locate a couple caches, however did take a few pictures. Weather was nothing short of BEAUTIFUL, me and the ole-lady ditched the kid for a few hours, hopped on the DR and let the tires sing!!

First is an old dirt road, with a neat little underpass for the stream..couldnt fine this cache, but picture was cool! In the winter ICE hangs from the ledge! Prettty neato!


This pic is the Reesedale power plant that got shut down due to the EPA and the Mr. President that we have...


Last pic of the day, is at Buttermilk Falls Fishing/Swimming area in Kitt, PA. Lots of cool rocks here! Great hanging out kinda area!
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:55 PM   #15006
O'Hooligan
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by NWRambler View Post
Not sure I can help, but my 98 SE was doing the same thing. Last month I tore it down to the frame for a powdercoat and when I put it back together the problem was gone. I went through all of the wiring harness (and the rest of the bike), pulled apart every plug and sprayed contact cleaner, and worked each plug together/apart a couple of times. I also sprayed inside all the controls and switches and ignition. I also found a couple of bare spots on wires from rubbing somewhere and shrink tubed or taped them up. I wasn't even thinking about that issue, just giving the bike a little love while all the parts were easy to look over and clean up. Now, for some reason, it all works correctly. Good luck
Thanks for that info, I'm gonna try the continuity test and will go thru all the connections and see what happens.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:46 AM   #15007
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,086
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
I have a chance to purchase a 1996 Suzuki DR350 off road dirt bike that was converted to street use with a BAJA Designs street kit. He wants $600.00 for the bike. Has been stored indoors, has a few or more scratches from use. No electric start. But it's all there. Deal or No deal ? When I look at it next week is there anything special to look for. Seller says it's now registered and insured and I can take it for a ride. If I purchase it, I'll register it in either Maine or Massachusetts. Is there a benefit of either state? And will both or either accept a dirt bike with a conversion kit to be registered in that state......Thanks, Frank
I can't help you with the registration info, but $600 for a running, riding DR350 seems like a really good price to me. Biggest thing to watch/listen for is any odd sounds coming from the top end. As long as the top end get's oil, it is very durable and long-lived. Run it low/out though, and you will be very hard pressed to find a good used top end (pretty much a new-parts-only situation).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:49 AM   #15008
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,086
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM View Post
I had to replace a destroyed lower chain guide on my DR350 and I have another damaged one on my DR250. I bought both a Moose and Kientech chain guide so I'll post up a comparison of them.

Moose chain guide cost about $50 off ebay, has a sticker indicating it was made by "Freddete racing" on it, and based on packing labels fits a variety of motorcycles. There is a note in the instructions indicating that Suzukis may need additional spacers. The Moose CG mounts using 2 of the 3 holes on the swingharm. When I tried to install it, I found that the chain would rub on the aluminum plate with the included spacers. I could make it work but I would need to get different spacers and longer bolts to install it.

The Kientech CG cost $75. Jesse said he was sending me the adjustable one for the DR650 which also fits the DR350 and is a little different than the one pictured on his web site. It uses all 3 mounting holes on the swing arm and has 3 positions for the lower wear block to adjust the chain position. I used the middle position. It also has nylon side plates on the inside so if the chain rubs on the sides, it will rub nylon instead of aluminum. The Kientech chain guide bolted right up.

I did not put the Moose chain guide on my DR250 yet. It looks like I need to pick up some washers and put them between the wear blocks and alumumunum side plates to give a little more space for the chain and longer spacers and bolts to mount it to the swing arm.

The M6 x 20mm mounting bolts that came with the Kientech guide were a little short, they don't quite fill up the lock nut, and I think I'll replace them with 25mm long bolts just to be safe.

In summary, I think the Moose guide is adaquate for most of us and more durable than the stock plastic one, but the Kientech chain guide fits better and is even tougher.
Hi Randy,

That is great info. The PO put a Fredette Racing slider on my DR and it is still going strong. I did replace the rub blocks a few years ago: Fredette had all the component parts cheap. Sorry to hear the one you bought doesn't fit right...mine has never been an issue (it seems quite old).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #15009
MrPulldown
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,596
These days I seem tio get most of my parts off of e-bay. I have all my info linked and it is super easy. I typically have to get everything shipped to here anyways as I live in the hills. Msot of the sellers are just vendors and are pretty good with answering questions. Might have to do a little reseasrch or comparision between vendors to make sure you have the right years, models...

Top end gasket kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Namura-Top-E...beb414&vxp=mtr

Fork Seals:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR350...e9ff0b&vxp=mtr
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:55 PM   #15010
swoody126
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: denton, America
Oddometer: 369
Uncle's Around The Bend Rally

sure wish i could post pics, then it would have happened...

took the '99SEX to Terlingua last weekend for Uncle's Rally

the bike took me everywhere i asked her to

paved roads, gravel roads, dirt roads

the little ANVIL performed flawlessly

& thats sayin a lot, when you consider she was packin my 260#+ larduss-bottomus-maximus

the racks(front, side & tail) a friend & i built did their job

they hauled my stuff w/o any lip

& protected the plastic when i pulled an ARTIE JOHNSON @ a stop sign

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK IS AWSOME

thanks for all the good postings

sw
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:09 PM   #15011
RuggedExposure
wandering the desert
 
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
MIGHT be carb? I'd see if ya can find someone to "LOAN" you a carb and give it a whirl? Your bike problem has me wandering just as much as the rest of us..lol I mean gosh damn, sucks to see a DR go down like this, ESPECIALLY since you've done everything ya can think of and that we can all think of!! May very well be the carb?...yours runs opposite of mine..mine runs a little poopy till it gets warm then runs like a dream ( like yours used to id imagine..) Kinda seems odd though...i forget what all ya DID try doing..did you by chance try swapping the magneto? (the flywheel with magnets) Just curious..ya got me sitting in the garage lookin at my bike thinking WTF?! lol sorry dood, ill shut up now.

wait, you said this started when you put the new tank on right?...did you try putting the old one on just for shits n giggles? Could it be a FUel starvation issue?...could it be Vapor locking by chance? I dunno, just thinkin to much i suppose? Sorry again dood.
I tried the other stator but it wouldn't even run with it, I'll try it again and double check the wiring next time.
Already put the stock tank back on, that didn't fix it either. I'll cleaned the carb and put it back together several times now, that won't do the trick either.

Bullitman281 is coming down this weekend for our trip, maybe he'll get time to look it over. If not, he's hauling back to CO with him and can tinker with it over the summer.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #15012
brianjonesphoto
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: The Brier Patch, WA
Oddometer: 1,548
Silly question I likely already know the answer to:
Is the foam seal on the airbox lit important? Mine's in 4 pieces and I don't think it's going to make it back on the bike. Any need to replace it?

Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:23 PM   #15013
Chiknmunky
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: On road Off road
Oddometer: 65
The seal on my air box was broken like that.Every decent creek crossing, I was getting water in there. I put a bead of rtv around the air box and then put vasalene on the lid of the air box so the rtv would'nt stick to it and put the three screws in.Let it set up and I had a good seal.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:14 PM   #15014
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,202
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I tried the other stator but it wouldn't even run with it, I'll try it again and double check the wiring next time.
Already put the stock tank back on, that didn't fix it either. I'll cleaned the carb and put it back together several times now, that won't do the trick either.

Bullitman281 is coming down this weekend for our trip, maybe he'll get time to look it over. If not, he's hauling back to CO with him and can tinker with it over the summer.
I have a spare CV carb from my '90. Just bought a new pumper. I'd be willing to ship it to you to borrow. Haven't cleaned it because one of the float bowl screws was frozen in place even after soaking. It functioned perfectly before I replaced it so I didn't try too hard but if you happen to have an impact driver, you're more than welcome to try. Anyway it's stock jetting so pm me if you'd like.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:47 AM   #15015
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,086
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
I have a spare CV carb from my '90. Just bought a new pumper. I'd be willing to ship it to you to borrow. Haven't cleaned it because one of the float bowl screws was frozen in place even after soaking. It functioned perfectly before I replaced it so I didn't try too hard but if you happen to have an impact driver, you're more than welcome to try. Anyway it's stock jetting so pm me if you'd like.
When I fit a CV carb to replace my pumper, one of the float bowl screws was well stuck and the head of the screw was pretty wallered out. I took a Dremel tool to cut a slot for a flat tipped screw driver. Then, I held the carb in my left hand and the screw driver in my right hand. I placed great downward force on the screwdriver as I was turning it. The screwdriver slipped and drove directly into the flesh between my thumb and index finger.

After stopping the bleeding with shop rags and electrical tape, I ended up using a small vice grip tool to remove the bolt.

Whoever said that screwdrivers are the most dangerous tool in the shop wasn't kidding.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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