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Old 03-12-2013, 04:16 AM   #15016
shank
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Lockyer Valley Qld Australia
Oddometer: 784
Front head stud Nut whats the trick?

G,day
I want to drop the head and cylinder off the 350 while the engine is still in the frame.
What is the trick to getting access to the front of the engine, the head / cylinder stud/nut???

Thanks
Shank
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:20 AM   #15017
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I placed great downward force on the screwdriver as I was turning it. The screwdriver slipped and drove directly into the flesh between my thumb and index finger.

After stopping the bleeding with shop rags and electrical tape, I ended up using a small vice grip tool to remove the bolt.

Whoever said that screwdrivers are the most dangerous tool in the shop wasn't kidding.
Yup yup yup...been there, done that....except I used duct tape....

After 35 years, finally bought an impact driver because I was tired of giving blood.....
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:20 AM   #15018
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shank View Post
G,day
I want to drop the head and cylinder off the 350 while the engine is still in the frame.
What is the trick to getting access to the front of the engine, the head / cylinder stud/nut???

Thanks
Shank
I've been able to access it with a combination wrench...though there isn't much room.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:25 AM   #15019
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Yup yup yup...been there, done that....except I used duct tape....

After 35 years, finally bought an impact driver because I was tired of giving blood.....
In my brilliance, I left the impact driver in the tool box :> :> :> :>
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:50 AM   #15020
thump!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shank View Post
G,day
I want to drop the head and cylinder off the 350 while the engine is still in the frame.
What is the trick to getting access to the front of the engine, the head / cylinder stud/nut???

Thanks
Shank
12mm box end wrench
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:23 AM   #15021
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Originally Posted by thump! View Post
12mm box end wrench

What he said.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:52 AM   #15022
MrPulldown
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,702
Spring looks to be around the corner and it is time to start working on the bikes.
So I have a bastard child DR that I would like to get running. It was a 90DR350S. The PO crashed it and found a DR250S of the same year. Swapped out some busted stuff and then tried to swap out the motor. I think he bent/damaged the shift rod splined area of the 350 and did not think it was repairable.

SO what I have is a DR350 chassis with a 250 motor in it that I am trying to fire up. The PO said he could not get it running but didn't give any details. I figured out some electrical issues. The neutral swtich does not work. The Side stand safety switched is also damaged. Put the two together and no spark. Well there is one spark but not any more after the first. Bypassed the side stand safety and now I have spark. The wiring harness is all chopped up so it is hard to figure out what is what.

-Question: There are two wires hanging off the back near the battery (yellow circle). What are these for?? Look like they would go to the starter solinode (sp?). But this bike being a kicker doesn't have one fo those. The other two wires I know are for the battery.
-The neutral switch is a single wire connection. What is the other unused white connector in the white circle. It is a two wire jobbie.


-Carbs. The bastard bike came with a bin of parts including two CV carbs. I think they are the smaller ones used for the 250 as the engine side opening is smaller than the 350 pumper I have lying around to compare. I did not want to tear off my CV on my running bike to compare. One of the carbs is much freasher, but is msising the choke knob. Is there an easy way to swap them out?

-What is the screw on the bottom of the carb on the float bowl. (not pictured) Leads to a tube on the inside of the float bowl.
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MrPulldown screwed with this post 03-12-2013 at 10:28 AM
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:46 PM   #15023
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,818
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
When I fit a CV carb to replace my pumper, one of the float bowl screws was well stuck and the head of the screw was pretty wallered out. I took a Dremel tool to cut a slot for a flat tipped screw driver. Then, I held the carb in my left hand and the screw driver in my right hand. I placed great downward force on the screwdriver as I was turning it. The screwdriver slipped and drove directly into the flesh between my thumb and index finger.

After stopping the bleeding with shop rags and electrical tape, I ended up using a small vice grip tool to remove the bolt.

Whoever said that screwdrivers are the most dangerous tool in the shop wasn't kidding.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
It's called a "line of fire" injury. Something we have ALL done at one time or another, most of us several times, some of us many times and will continue to do so periodically. In the work arena, a good employer will demand that employees simply NEVER place body parts in the line of fire from a hand tool. As a safety professional, I try to set a good example and since I made a personal policy of behaving the same way at home, I have not had any such injuries. Don't ask mee about how bad carb cleaner stings when it gets in your eyes however.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:52 PM   #15024
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
...

After 35 years, finally bought an impact driver because I was tired of giving blood.....
Hold that sucker the wrong way or swing the hammer inaccurately and you can give just as much blood and maybe break a few bones for good measure. ...Unless you're talking about a powered impact driver, in which case you've only got concerns related to compressed air or electricity.

It's a (potentially) dangerous world out there, be adventurous but manage your risks.
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January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #15025
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Personally, I don't think a job is done right without a drop or two of my blood in or on it!

Kidding - normally pretty safe however one does make silly mistakes under the self-imposed pressure of trying to fix a problem....
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:17 PM   #15026
markk900
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Can't quite tell but I believe Light Green is for the Right side turn signal, so assume the other wire is for the Left side turn signal.

For the two wire hookup - can you see the color of the wires?

Can you read the code on the side of the carbs? That could help confirm what you have.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:52 PM   #15027
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
When I fit a CV carb to replace my pumper, one of the float bowl screws was well stuck and the head of the screw was pretty wallered out. I took a Dremel tool to cut a slot for a flat tipped screw driver. Then, I held the carb in my left hand and the screw driver in my right hand. I placed great downward force on the screwdriver as I was turning it. The screwdriver slipped and drove directly into the flesh between my thumb and index finger.

After stopping the bleeding with shop rags and electrical tape, I ended up using a small vice grip tool to remove the bolt.

Whoever said that screwdrivers are the most dangerous tool in the shop wasn't kidding.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Impact Driver, Dremel (as you stated) or my favorite is taking Vise-Grips, Bitting down on that stuck ole bitch, and giving it a little twist. Breaks em loose enough to take em out with the screw stick!
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:42 PM   #15028
markk900
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Oh - the choke should be easy to move - carefully unscrew the plunger from the carb body (careful because the nut is made of plastic that will self destruct if you look at it sideways)....move to other carb, screw it back in.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:11 PM   #15029
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Oh - the choke should be easy to move - carefully unscrew the plunger from the carb body (careful because the nut is made of plastic that will self destruct if you look at it sideways)....move to other carb, screw it back in.
That is it. Jsut grab the knob and start unscrewing. I will look into it tonight
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #15030
FireDog45
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Central, Ohio
Oddometer: 650
Rim locks

Recently picked up a '99 and have been slowly going through it. Rebuilt the carb and suspension with some help from Jesse, added new bars, bark busters, grips and rear rack. Scored an Acerbis tank and got that all plumbed in. Also spent some time going over all the nuts, bolts and fluids.

During the test ride I found everything worked very well; she pulled hard all the way to redline, the brakes were better than I expected and the suspension felt pretty damn good. The only issue was the severely out of balance wheels. I R&R'd the front tire then static balanced it (took almost 3 oz!)- better but above 60 mph it was not pleasant.

The question for y'all is this: do you run without the rim lock, try to balance it out or just run it and not worry about the out of balance issue?

I will be using this for on pavement as well as some trail riding but my style is more "motoring along quietly" rather than jumping and roosting.

Are the rim locks even necessary for someone like me?

Thanks!
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