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Old 03-30-2013, 07:36 PM   #15271
ADV BUM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Looks like a pretty nice setup you got there. What's the story on the seat? Is it a softer foam than stock?
Judging by the angle of little black mudflap right behind the rear shock compared to the tire, it looks like your bike was raised? Rear shock upgrade?
I did not build the bike. The person who did I believe used shorter links of some kind to raise it. There was a thread on Maximum-Suzuki of the build. Partly the reason I was able to purchase as the bike is tall. I am 6'5 so it was destiny. I did not see anything about the seat.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:15 PM   #15272
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarysharkface View Post
The wife's 98 dirt model is weeping oil from what looks to be the center seem of the bottom of the case. It's hard to really make out exactly where the leak is. My question is how big of a pain in the arse it's going to be to fix, and I'm wondering how common this is. I'm not a mechanic.

Thanks

John
You know, if you and your wife just use it for fun, and not doing the CDR or TAT, and it's a just "weeping oil", then you might just drain the oil, remove the tank and turn it upside down in the garage, clean up the seam really good and JB Weld it. Let it sit a few days and give it a try. If it doesnt work, you haven't hurt any thing and it can still be repaired right later. I cracked a side cover on a TL250 on a ride in CO a long time ago and did a JB Weld patch in the mountains. I was going to weld it when I got back, but it never leaked any and as far as I know it's still holding.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:21 PM   #15273
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarysharkface View Post
The wife's 98 dirt model is weeping oil from what looks to be the center seem of the bottom of the case. It's hard to really make out exactly where the leak is. My question is how big of a pain in the arse it's going to be to fix, and I'm wondering how common this is. I'm not a mechanic.

Thanks

John
I'd be willing to bet it's leaking from somewhere else and that's just where it accumulates. Give the engine a good clean with a degreaser and dust it with talc. Once you run it, this will help identify the true point of origin.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:47 AM   #15274
mustangwagz
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Mounted my new KNOBBIE on the front yesterday, took it for a little rip and now it handles a lot better in the dirt!! put new brakes, bearings, seal, tube and tire on! lol woohoo! flushed brakes too. HEADS UP for anyone that does, make sure if your brake line has the "high spot loop" that comes up higher than your master cylinder, be sure to pull slack down as low as possible so that ya get all the air out...otherwise it'll take ya a little while to get er bled out! lol trust me.....i know...bahahha <-----DUmbAsS!

Other than that, i do have a question for yinz guys..Can the Kicker shaft seal (on my 93) be pulled and replaced without taking side case off? it APPEARS that it can, but i wanted to ask first. I also need to get 2 new copper crush washers for the side of the head oil line, when i put crash bars on, i re used them...well now it collects dust and dirt and has a slight oil film all around it....we cant have that! haha.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:49 AM   #15275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
I'd be willing to bet it's leaking from somewhere else and that's just where it accumulates. Give the engine a good clean with a degreaser and dust it with talc. Once you run it, this will help identify the true point of origin.
The most likely leak points are the o-rings where the oil lines attach, the o-ring under the little metal plate where the neutral sender attaches on the street model or the crush washer at the drain plug.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:23 AM   #15276
scarysharkface
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Location: Lakland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The most likely leak points are the o-rings where the oil lines attach, the o-ring under the little metal plate where the neutral sender attaches on the street model or the crush washer at the drain plug.
Upon closer inspection it appears to be leading from the clutch side case cover gasket and the low point happens to be the rear middle of the case when it's parked on the kickstand. A much better scenario I would think.

John
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #15277
shearboy2004
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Location: Ft Collins ,Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarysharkface View Post
Upon closer inspection it appears to be leading from the clutch side case cover gasket and the low point happens to be the rear middle of the case when it's parked on the kickstand. A much better scenario I would think.

John
John take a pic of the leak for us , much easier to offer advise that way but do clean it right up first and show us where exactly the leak is coming from , my guess would be back around the area of the kick start , the gasket is kinda thin there and maybe just maybe a gentle tighten of the blots may seal it up . Don't go hard on them they are easy to strip . Either way a clutch gasket is an easy fix that most here could talk you through .
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:50 PM   #15278
redleger
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Does anyone have any expert tips on putting in the bolt from the air filter. I literally spent 45 minutes fishing around until I finally got it. It seems like a poor design to me. I am ashamed to say this is only the secomd time I have done it and it was a less than pleaseant experience .
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:22 PM   #15279
Rich667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribsauce View Post
This is now my 4th or 5th oil change and I finally have to ask this, at the risk of sounding incredibly stupid.

Is it just me or is the dipstick hard as heck to screw in? I swear it takes me longer to get that thing back in than the entire rest of the process. Just to make sure it wasn't me, I got three of my friends to try and they all spent 5+ minutes failing too.

I googled and did not see anyone complaining so I figure something must have happened to mine.
I believe they are all a PITA to get in. As someone else said maybe yours is bent? I have found that if you stick it in the hole angled too far back you can feel it hit a little lip... when you try and move it upward. If you then twist the dipstick to the left or right and pull it out very slightly it will go around the lip and fall into place. (im not sure if this makes any sence to any of you ahaha) That or I just got really good at taking it in and out since I add oil almost daily at this point
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:23 PM   #15280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Does anyone have any expert tips on putting in the bolt from the air filter. I literally spent 45 minutes fishing around until I finally got it. It seems like a poor design to me. I am ashamed to say this is only the secomd time I have done it and it was a less than pleaseant experience .
My bike came with a square cut in the top of the airbox which helps a little.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:23 AM   #15281
inroads
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hard shifting DR

2 things have helped my bikes shifting to an acceptable level(although I resorted to the fact it will never be as smooth as my klx or drz)
With my Kientech easy pull clutch arm I need to get the max amount of clutch cable pull,just prior to slipping clutch,(tach helps with this) so to get fullest disengagement.

2nd thing is to not short shift it!! It needs to run up the tach before shifting this helps to "unload " the gears for an easier shift and when I downshift I "unload" em by letting the rpm's drop before dropping down.

Just a bit more of a technique with the dr shifting and then its ok.

BTW,I have removed material for a free spinning clutch basket and filed down the grooves on the basket fingers along with running synthetic oil.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:42 AM   #15282
travis789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Does anyone have any expert tips on putting in the bolt from the air filter. I literally spent 45 minutes fishing around until I finally got it. It seems like a poor design to me. I am ashamed to say this is only the secomd time I have done it and it was a less than pleaseant experience .
the secret is to remove that rubber snorkel first. Its totally in the way of where your hand needs to be to screw in the bolt. If the snorkel (which is the rubber part that goes into the top of the airbox) isn't hardened from age it's not too bad to remove but of course you have to remove the seat to get it out. That's the manual's advice, anyway.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:32 AM   #15283
SloMo228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travis789 View Post
the secret is to remove that rubber snorkel first. Its totally in the way of where your hand needs to be to screw in the bolt. If the snorkel (which is the rubber part that goes into the top of the airbox) isn't hardened from age it's not too bad to remove but of course you have to remove the seat to get it out. That's the manual's advice, anyway.
Might be a stupid question, but I've only had my DR for about 2 weeks. I did replace the filter and had a similar experience with trying to get that bolt back in. I figured pulling the snorkel would make it easier but I couldn't for the life of me get the thing out. It's still soft but I yanked as hard as I dared without risking tearing it and it wouldn't budge. I noticed it can turn and I tried turning it to various positions while pulling but no luck. Is there a trick I don't know about or do I just need to go back and pull harder?
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:00 AM   #15284
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Might be a stupid question, but I've only had my DR for about 2 weeks. I did replace the filter and had a similar experience with trying to get that bolt back in. I figured pulling the snorkel would make it easier but I couldn't for the life of me get the thing out. It's still soft but I yanked as hard as I dared without risking tearing it and it wouldn't budge. I noticed it can turn and I tried turning it to various positions while pulling but no luck. Is there a trick I don't know about or do I just need to go back and pull harder?
Squeeze the snorkel to remove it. It has a lip inside and outside the airbox. The filter retainer screw is just technique (and a willingness to get filter oil all over your hand). It gets easier with experience.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:22 AM   #15285
scarysharkface
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
John take a pic of the leak for us , much easier to offer advise that way but do clean it right up first and show us where exactly the leak is coming from , my guess would be back around the area of the kick start , the gasket is kinda thin there and maybe just maybe a gentle tighten of the blots may seal it up . Don't go hard on them they are easy to strip . Either way a clutch gasket is an easy fix that most here could talk you through .
Will do, probably have to wait until the weekend again though (work sucks). There is a small lip of gasket protruding from the case in the area of the kickstarter, and that is moist after I ride, so I think you're probably correct. I did take a picture of the drip near the center (lowest point) yesterday after riding it awhile.



I ordered the gasket, now it occurs to me I should have also ordered the seal for the kickstart shaft?

John
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