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Old 04-06-2013, 04:07 PM   #15376
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
I am short, and had a low spot underneath my foot so instead of keeping it up, I just kept going.
While I am not short, I did drop a friend's BRAND NEW Buell RR1000 (last one made) at 0 mph when the same thing happened....that little spill cost me plenty to correct!


Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
It simply hurts my soul because the DR350 really is my baby. I am going to start tomorrow. Never changed out handle bard before, seems to be alot of crap to take off and put on for something so simple. Pictures will follow.
Not sure what bars you have but if they're steel you might be able to bend them back....depends on how bad the damage is. If you do have to change them out, its not as bad as it looks. Only the left grip ever causes me trouble no matter what people say about how to take them off. The rest of the stuff is mostly on split mounts so comes off pretty easily....

Hope the ankle heals up soon.....
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:58 PM   #15377
redleger
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Well it was time to get rid of the purple bars anyway. Got new grips and a fly racing set of bars cheap. It was on my to do list anyway. Just upped the priority. Now I gotta get that frame painted and I will be set. Ankle is ok. Just gotta wear a boot for a while but weather sucks now anyway so I am not missing out on much.
Thanks for the well wishes.

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Old 04-06-2013, 06:13 PM   #15378
2bold2getold
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Turn Signal Indicator

I couldn't figure out why you guys had to remove the indicator light to get your LED turn signals to work. I couldn't do that. I'd be running around all over the place with my blinkers on. Heck I can't even remember to turn mine off with the indicator light. Any way, after checking the wireing diagram, they use the two off turn signal bulbs as a path to ground for the indicator. Not the way I would have done it, but they didn't ask me. And my way would cost more but not much. If you want to use your indicator, cut the two wires from the indicator and connect one of them to ground. Then get two small cheap diodes (radio shack). Diodes are kind of like check valves. They let current flow one way but not the other way. Splice a wire from the power side of each turn signal to one of the diodes to the other indicator light wire. Same with the other side to the same indicator light wire. Both diodes to the same indicator light wire. The diodes will isolate the left from the right. Cathode to the turn signal---Anode to the indicator ( I think) If it don't work, turn em around. I get it mixed up. It works though. I did it on an old Gold Wing and on my Transalp when I added LED turn signals, extra LED indicators ( one for left and one for right) and retained the stock indicator. Actullaly, I don't know why you would want to use LED for turn signals any way. They aren't on enough to save much power (unless you don't have an indicator light ) unless you hook em up with a couple NC relays as running lights and turn signals. That's what I did on the TA. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:02 PM   #15379
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I couldn't figure out why you guys had to remove the indicator light to get your LED turn signals to work. I couldn't do that. I'd be running around all over the place with my blinkers on. Heck I can't even remember to turn mine off with the indicator light. Any way, after checking the wireing diagram, they use the two off turn signal bulbs as a path to ground for the indicator. Not the way I would have done it, but they didn't ask me. And my way would cost more but not much. If you want to use your indicator, cut the two wires from the indicator and connect one of them to ground. Then get two small cheap diodes (radio shack). Diodes are kind of like check valves. They let current flow one way but not the other way. Splice a wire from the power side of each turn signal to one of the diodes to the other indicator light wire. Same with the other side to the same indicator light wire. Both diodes to the same indicator light wire. The diodes will isolate the left from the right. Cathode to the turn signal---Anode to the indicator ( I think) If it don't work, turn em around. I get it mixed up. It works though. I did it on an old Gold Wing and on my Transalp when I added LED turn signals, extra LED indicators ( one for left and one for right) and retained the stock indicator. Actullaly, I don't know why you would want to use LED for turn signals any way. They aren't on enough to save much power (unless you don't have an indicator light ) unless you hook em up with a couple NC relays as running lights and turn signals. That's what I did on the TA. Hope this helps.
The way Suzuki did it is the same way all other bike and car manufacturers have done it for decades. You get the right mode of operation without the need for troublesome semiconductors. Your solution is one way to do it but there are several others. You could also replace the single indicator bulb with two LEDs in parallel, each with one leg grounded.

On my DR I only converted the front signals to LED and the indicator light still functions correctly.

The benefits of LED turn signals include:
1) The "instant on" light is more noticeable
2) The lower current draw helps to avoid the headlamp dimming as the signals flash
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:02 PM   #15380
SFC_Ren
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My cracked engine

Well not sure what could have caused this but it sure is trashed.
If anyone has a good right side engine case from a kickstart model DR350 or DR350S or see's one on their local craigslist. Or has a spare motor let me know please.


This is the transmission side of the right side engine case


This is outside the case behind the kickstart mechanism area



Behind where the clutch sits on the right side case



Inside the area where the kickstart assembly goes
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:17 PM   #15381
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
Well not sure what could have caused this but it sure is trashed.
If anyone has a good right side engine case from a kickstart model DR350 or DR350S or see's one on their local craigslist. Or has a spare motor let me know please.



JB Weld.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:52 AM   #15382
markk900
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Oh don't do that RE! - I'm drinking my morning coffee and almost choked!

SFC_Ren - I know you said you don't know what happened but holy cow - that's grenaded....
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:11 AM   #15383
FireDog45
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Location: Central, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Well it was time to get rid of the purple bars anyway. Got new grips and a fly racing set of bars cheap. It was on my to do list anyway. Just upped the priority. Now I gotta get that frame painted and I will be set. Ankle is ok. Just gotta wear a boot for a while but weather sucks now anyway so I am not missing out on much.
Thanks for the well wishes.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
I'd suggest picking up a new throttle tube from Jesse if you're still running the OEM grips. While some have successfully removed the stock grip from the tube it is a major PITA! For a few bucks you can save a LOT of headache.

Just my .02 after trying and giving up...
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:40 AM   #15384
Chicken Helmet
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
JB Weld.
+1
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:37 AM   #15385
rubberband
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
JB Weld.

Possibly the worst advice I've read on this forum...... replace the cases. And major forces caused that cracking. I have seen it before on this same thread...can't seem to locate it now.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:38 AM   #15386
SFC_Ren
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Hahaha yep a little goes a long way huh?


Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
JB Weld.

SFC_Ren screwed with this post 04-07-2013 at 08:02 AM
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:06 AM   #15387
SFC_Ren
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I agree and think he was just kidding about the JBweld.
What I thought had happened was that I had an oil leak on my stator cover and I thought that the leak caused overheating which caused the crack. But looking at it apart I'm beginning to wonder if I didn't kick start the thing too hard at one time while it wasn't exactly at TDC or something or maybe a combination of the two problems.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
Possibly the worst advice I've read on this forum...... replace the cases. And major forces caused that cracking. I have seen it before on this same thread...can't seem to locate it now.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:17 AM   #15388
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
Possibly the worst advice I've read on this forum...... replace the cases. And major forces caused that cracking. I have seen it before on this same thread...can't seem to locate it now.
That was a joke. I wouldn't even attempt to TIG that case together because it would just keep cracking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SFC_Ren View Post
Hahaha yep a little goes a long way huh?
Its works long enough to get it back together and put the bike on ebay under the listing "DR350 - like new!"
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:21 AM   #15389
brianjonesphoto
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Hey Ren here's one option http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3715599489.html I've seen another engine in Vancouver bc lately too.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:42 AM   #15390
Chicken Helmet
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I thought JB Weld was a KLR secret.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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