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Old 04-11-2013, 08:49 PM   #15466
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,432
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
Popping in with update on my 99DR350SE unbuild-rebuild-unbuild-rebuild clutch/engine project. Got it all apart, replaced shift drum bolt and fixed crank pin, reassembled. Oops. Transmission not meshing, wouldn't shift. Unbuild/rebuild 2. Now, shifts great and clutch doesn't drag like it did when I got it. It starts OK, runs well until I push in the choke. Suspicion 1 (verify/correct as necessary): the carb that sat all winter needs to be well cleaned. While running, it sounds a lot louder/messier than when I started. Almost sounds dry. Valves are in spec at high end of range, it's full of oil. [Sorry, no audio file attached] but I hear the engine as much if not more than the exhaust. Like it has asthma. Suggestions? Cam chain tensioner? Check that oil is circulating? How?

Ideas welcome, I wanna ride this thing rather than look at it in pieces like I've been doing but I don't want to cook the engine through impatience. On the bright side, I'm now OK at removing and disassembling the engine on this. Apparently still need work on assembly.

- Spad
There is a procedure for checking the oil pressure in the manual, page 4-7. Might be worth doing just for piece of mind. You can get an after market oil pressure gauge at most auto parts stores. It will probably take some creative plumbing to get it hooked up, but it looks do-able.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:15 PM   #15467
ADV BUM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travis789 View Post
Sweet! I was looking into one of those but I stopped counting when the dollar amount of the oem parts got to 600$. Are those still readily available in europe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
I've been wanting to do that! How much did it all run for? What year bike is it going on? Let us know how it goes!
I got very lucky on my purchase. I did not win the bid on ebay but the seller found he had another set so I ended up getting it in a second chance offer. I scored the set for $260 including S&H from Sweden. For that price I was willing to take a chance that it was real.

These are not READILY available but seem to be more available in Europe. I shared some emails with the guy who did win the ebay auction. He said he did have luck in the past over seas. He said to Google " Australian Auto Wreckers" or try
http://www.bikelinks.com/directory/P...ycle_Wreckers/

I don't know if I will put this on my 96 or use it in on another DR350 custom build.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:30 AM   #15468
thump!
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Re the oil cooler. FYI Be aware that you'll need to modify the mounting hardware to prevent interference with a 4.2 Clark tank.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:42 AM   #15469
OldUKBikerGuy
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
I got very lucky on my purchase. I did not win the bid on ebay but the seller found he had another set so I ended up getting it in a second chance offer. I scored the set for $260 including S&H from Sweden. For that price I was willing to take a chance that it was real.

These are not READILY available but seem to be more available in Europe. I shared some emails with the guy who did win the ebay auction. He said he did have luck in the past over seas. He said to Google " Australian Auto Wreckers" or try
http://www.bikelinks.com/directory/P...ycle_Wreckers/

I don't know if I will put this on my 96 or use it in on another DR350 custom build.

Just happened to notice that there is an oil cooler set for sale on UK Ebay right now - currently on 99p ($1.50?)

The buyer says UK post only, but it might be worth asking him anyway.
If all else fails, I might be able to help a fellow ADVer out by posting it on via my address.

Here's the advert:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dr350-oilc...item2c6df2033d
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:22 AM   #15470
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
I got very lucky on my purchase. I did not win the bid on ebay but the seller found he had another set so I ended up getting it in a second chance offer. I scored the set for $260 including S&H from Sweden. For that price I was willing to take a chance that it was real.

These are not READILY available but seem to be more available in Europe. I shared some emails with the guy who did win the ebay auction. He said he did have luck in the past over seas. He said to Google " Australian Auto Wreckers" or try
http://www.bikelinks.com/directory/P...ycle_Wreckers/

I don't know if I will put this on my 96 or use it in on another DR350 custom build.
Good deal!

If anyone want to "roll their own", I'm selling some bits and pieces for an oil cooler here:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:20 AM   #15471
Spad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
There is a procedure for checking the oil pressure in the manual, page 4-7. Might be worth doing just for piece of mind. You can get an after market oil pressure gauge at most auto parts stores. It will probably take some creative plumbing to get it hooked up, but it looks do-able.
At first, I started looking for pages four through seven...

Thanks for the reference, I'd missed that. I'll check that out, once I figure out what size threads I need for the gauge. Breather hose is attached, I ran out last night and checked that right off hoping for the easy fix. Hopefully I'll dig into this again this weekend.

- Spad
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:06 AM   #15472
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
At first, I started looking for pages four through seven...

Thanks for the reference, I'd missed that. I'll check that out, once I figure out what size threads I need for the gauge. Breather hose is attached, I ran out last night and checked that right off hoping for the easy fix. Hopefully I'll dig into this again this weekend.

- Spad
If you can't find the right size fitting you could order a new plug( http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID..._MODEL_L_M_N_P looks like it might be #8 )drill a hole in it and silver solder a small piece of copper tubing in the hole. And hook some hose from the tubing to the gauge. I'm sure there is a way to make something work. Not supposed to be more than 20psi.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #15473
Spad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you can't find the right size fitting you could order a new plug( http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID..._MODEL_L_M_N_P looks like it might be #8 )drill a hole in it and silver solder a small piece of copper tubing in the hole. And hook some hose from the tubing to the gauge. I'm sure there is a way to make something work. Not supposed to be more than 20psi.
The manual shows a gauge with a hose leading to the threaded fitting. If I can find one like that (cheaper/easier than the spec'd Suzuki tool) I'll be in clover without jury rigging. Thanks for the link, and the info on what # I'm looking for.

- Spad
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:33 AM   #15474
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Re the oil cooler. FYI Be aware that you'll need to modify the mounting hardware to prevent interference with a 4.2 Clark tank.
Stock oil cooler fits with an IMS tank fine.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:51 AM   #15475
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post


Figured out the ignition. Used a double pole double throw on/on switch, thought I think that I only needed a double throw single pole, they jsut do not make one of those.

of the six leads you only need to use four. Two to connect the Red and Orange for ingintion, and the opposite two to kill (BY and BW).

As for the Br and Gr wires. I simple connect the two together. The tail and turn signals turn on and off with the priamry orange /red connection.

I do not have a "parking" function anymore.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:57 AM   #15476
MrPulldown
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I would like to give a shout out to DR350 bro Slowsuki. He saw my question regarding using a capacitor in lue of a battery, and PMed me. He offer to ship me his old white bothers "battery eliminator". FREE.

Turns out this bad boy is huge. About 3" long and 1.5" in diameter. It seems like it is a large industrial capacitor (ok not supper large) with a WB sticker on it. Under the sticker it reads:

SANGAMO
TYPE 139R
139R502M055AB2A
5,000 uF 55 VDC
-55C TO+ 85C
Blah Blah Blah
658-8712-131

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Old 04-12-2013, 02:03 PM   #15477
plugeye
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Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nortonbrian View Post
I cant help noticing that many owners are suffering carb problems. I had a bad running 1999 SE, surging and cutting out. Replaced the O ring that retains the float needle seat, and then checked the float level accurately. I counterbored the small float bowl drain hole, made a small alloy spigot on my lathe and epoxy it to the bowl. A piece of small bore clear tubing slipped over the spigot and taped to the side of the carb will give you a very accurate reading of where the actual level is. Set the level and the bike runs perfect. Worked for me.
great tip
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:11 PM   #15478
haggeo
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i've been going through this new to me bike recently; cleaning, fixing, replacing and so on. the plug that is in the center of the magneto cover is giving me problems, it does not want to come out of there. i took this picture the day i brought it home and you can see the socket for the hex key was already widened in previous attempts to loosen/tighten the plug. anybody have any alternative methods to getting it out?

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Old 04-12-2013, 02:15 PM   #15479
SFC_Ren
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Mine was attempting to strip out also, when I went to adjust my valves. I just ended up removing the whole magneto cover. Just make sure you have a new gasket, I didn't have any luck with silicone gasket maker sealing it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by haggeo View Post
i've been going through this new to me bike recently; cleaning, fixing, replacing and so on. the plug that is in the center of the magneto cover is giving me problems, it does not want to come out of there. i took this picture the day i brought it home and you can see the socket for the hex key was already widened in previous attempts to loosen/tighten the plug. anybody have any alternative methods to getting it out?
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:32 PM   #15480
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggeo View Post
i've been going through this new to me bike recently; cleaning, fixing, replacing and so on. the plug that is in the center of the magneto cover is giving me problems, it does not want to come out of there. i took this picture the day i brought it home and you can see the socket for the hex key was already widened in previous attempts to loosen/tighten the plug. anybody have any alternative methods to getting it out?
Do you have a new one. Do that before you try any thing. When metric hex holes get buggered out I ussualy find that the next size up SAE/fractional size hex wrench will fit. You typically will need to tap it in with a hammer, and it will hold enough to get the bolt off.

Another thing would be to drill two small holes and use a pin spanner to remove. This might be better done with the cover off though.
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