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Old 04-13-2013, 09:34 AM   #15496
Spat
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Location: Lakewood, Co
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redleger View Post
1999 was the last year. As far as desirable 1996 and up seem to be sought after but not sure which is the most desirable. I have a 1996 and it is amazing.

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I picked up a 97se last year but would rather have my wife's 1990 kickstart DR350s and she won't swap either.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:46 AM   #15497
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
I had the same problem. I pulled the rim locks and it made a huge difference! From what ive learned here, if you don't ride really aggressive with aired down tires then they're not really necessary.

I haven't plugged the hole yet but will come up with something when I put my new tires on. There may even be an OEM solution, I just haven't looked yet.

Pull em and you'll be happy!

Update: if you want the OEM solution to plugging this hole - it's number 15 on the parts fiche for the 99 front wheel (part no. 09250-08013) and is less than $2.00.
Nice find! thanks for the help, I probably will do that option I also found a light weight rim lock that motion pro makes called liteloc
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:55 AM   #15498
haggeo
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stator cover plug freed!

i laid the bike over on it's side after sinking various hole in but not through the plug.


i heated up the plug with a heat gun and sprayed penetrating oil then brought the castle nut socket into play, along with my MX boot on my left foot to stand on the back of the socket while i hammered the wrench.



joy!
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:45 AM   #15499
jakeybob
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I'm in the process of pulling out the shift drum bolt and putting some loc tite on it. Its tight, which is good, but I just remember people mentioning bending the fork that is attached to the pivot of the shift drum bolt.

Is it necessary to use something to hold that fork in place while I remove the shift drum bolt? And likewise for tightening it? I just don't want to bend that fork.

Also, what should I look for to see whether i need new clutch plates.

thanks!
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:04 AM   #15500
jmderyke
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i heated up the plug with a heat gun and sprayed penetrating oil then brought the castle nut socket into play, along with my MX boot on my left foot to stand on the back of the socket while i hammered the wrench.


I get to do the same thing to mine, been putting it off, Im really looking forward to messing with it, congrads on removing yours!
joy!
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #15501
haggeo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
i heated up the plug with a heat gun and sprayed penetrating oil then brought the castle nut socket into play, along with my MX boot on my left foot to stand on the back of the socket while i hammered the wrench.


I get to do the same thing to mine, been putting it off, Im really looking forward to messing with it, congrads on removing yours!
joy!
the key was drilling the holes just a tiny bit larger than the socket pins then using a hammer to gently tap the socket in. laying the bike down and standing on the wrench was also key, otherwise the socket will just slip out of the holes. mine was really screwed in so tight there is no way it would have come off without the added pressure of my booted foot. good luck!
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:34 PM   #15502
Spad
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Worked on the bike this weekend a bit, though I haven't found a good oil gauge yet (harbor fright sells a possible candidate). On the off chance there's a supply problem, are there any usual failure points/assembly errors that could affect the oil pump? The top end just sounds dry.

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Old 04-15-2013, 06:08 AM   #15503
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggeo View Post

i heated up the plug with a heat gun and sprayed penetrating oil then brought the castle nut socket into play, along with my MX boot on my left foot to stand on the back of the socket while i hammered the wrench.
When I get a recalcitrant one like that I use a ˝" flex bar with a short extension pipe slipped over the handle. That gives you the ability to apply lots of torque in a very controlled manner so you don't have to hammer or jerk on the wrench and can concentrate on keeping the hex key or socket properly seated in the plug.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:30 AM   #15504
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggeo View Post
i laid the bike over on it's side after sinking various hole in but not through the plug.

i heated up the plug with a heat gun and sprayed penetrating oil then brought the castle nut socket into play, along with my MX boot on my left foot to stand on the back of the socket while i hammered the wrench
I'm glad you got it out! It is amazing how much time and effort can be spent on a single stubborn fastener. As other have mentioned, be sure to use anti-seize on reassembly. I've also found that replacing the o-ring is very helpful, too (same on the dipstick). Yes, I sell o-rings for the DR350, but that isn't what this post is about. After a while, the o-ring will tend to "take shape" and then when the plug is tightened, there seems to be more "metal-on-metal" contact where a fresh o-ring will prevent some of that. I know, I'm not describing it very well. All I know is that the plugs come out a little easier with fresh o-rings.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:22 AM   #15505
FireDog45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm glad you got it out! It is amazing how much time and effort can be spent on a single stubborn fastener. As other have mentioned, be sure to use anti-seize on reassembly. I've also found that replacing the o-ring is very helpful, too (same on the dipstick). Yes, I sell o-rings for the DR350, but that isn't what this post is about. After a while, the o-ring will tend to "take shape" and then when the plug is tightened, there seems to be more "metal-on-metal" contact where a fresh o-ring will prevent some of that. I know, I'm not describing it very well. All I know is that the plugs come out a little easier with fresh o-rings.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
This is exactly what happened to my DL1000. The O ring became a little smashed, oil started weeping past and the PO attempted to stop the leak by tightening the plug. A couple of these cycles and there was no way you could remove it without damaging it.

Moral of the story: if you have a small oil leak at the plug check the O ring before cranking the plug down. It will save you a bunch of headaches later!
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:17 PM   #15506
travis789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm glad you got it out! It is amazing how much time and effort can be spent on a single stubborn fastener. As other have mentioned, be sure to use anti-seize on reassembly. I've also found that replacing the o-ring is very helpful, too (same on the dipstick). Yes, I sell o-rings for the DR350, but that isn't what this post is about. After a while, the o-ring will tend to "take shape" and then when the plug is tightened, there seems to be more "metal-on-metal" contact where a fresh o-ring will prevent some of that. I know, I'm not describing it very well. All I know is that the plugs come out a little easier with fresh o-rings.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
And his prices are dirt cheap with fast shipping
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:07 PM   #15507
haggeo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm glad you got it out! It is amazing how much time and effort can be spent on a single stubborn fastener. As other have mentioned, be sure to use anti-seize on reassembly. I've also found that replacing the o-ring is very helpful, too (same on the dipstick). Yes, I sell o-rings for the DR350, but that isn't what this post is about. After a while, the o-ring will tend to "take shape" and then when the plug is tightened, there seems to be more "metal-on-metal" contact where a fresh o-ring will prevent some of that. I know, I'm not describing it very well. All I know is that the plugs come out a little easier with fresh o-rings.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
thanks, i didn't know about your site, good to have another source for parts.
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When the facts change, I change my mind. What do you do, sir? John Maynard Keynes



Faced with the choice between changing one's mind and proving that there is no need to do so, almost everyone gets busy on the proof." John Kenneth Galbraith



The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane. Marcus Aurelius

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Old 04-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #15508
nikitino25
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rear passenger foot pegs

I have a '99 SE model dr350 and did a search because I need some rear passenger foot pegs but couldn't find much. Did these bikes come with rear pegs? I see on my frame where it looks like a bracket or something for them could screw in but I can't even find anywhere to buy them or know what all I need (brackets etc.)? Anybody got some rear pegs w/assembly to sell me or know where I can get some; preferably with a parts diagram so I know what all I would need?
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #15509
SloMo228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitino25 View Post
I have a '99 SE model dr350 and did a search because I need some rear passenger foot pegs but couldn't find much. Did these bikes come with rear pegs? I see on my frame where it looks like a bracket or something for them could screw in but I can't even find anywhere to buy them or know what all I need (brackets etc.)? Anybody got some rear pegs w/assembly to sell me or know where I can get some; preferably with a parts diagram so I know what all I would need?
My '96 SE has passenger pegs. Looks like you can still buy them new, but they're going to cost you a little bit: https://suzukipartshouse.vnexttech.c...7227f/footrest Probably best to find some used ones, hopefully someone on here can hook you up.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:39 PM   #15510
nikitino25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
My '96 SE has passenger pegs. Looks like you can still buy them new, but they're going to cost you a little bit: https://suzukipartshouse.vnexttech.c...7227f/footrest Probably best to find some used ones, hopefully someone on here can hook you up.
Yeah I found that site above and the same page but I'm pretty sure those parts are the front pegs only, I can't find the parts for the rears anywhere......If anybody has some to sell, let me know...
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