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03-06-2009, 01:24 PM
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#1606 |
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For those with True Grit
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I am looking at a '94 dr350se currently. My riding buddy has a '95 dr350 not sure if they were se's or not but it is the stock street legal model. I'm sure its buried in this 108 page thread somewhere, but is there any significant difference between these two years?
Thanks for any help. |
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03-06-2009, 01:40 PM
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#1607 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: CharVegas
Oddometer: 936
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To bump up the stopping ability, get a front master cylinder from a suzuki GS500, It will make a huge difference with the steel braided line. I did this, I got the master cylinder for $9 off ebay and cleaned it up. Good to go! The rear brake is a pain to bleed but does not need to be upgraded.
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03-06-2009, 01:48 PM
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#1608 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa
Oddometer: 10,901
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Quote:
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'09 Buell XB12XT, TL1000S, H1F, M620, CR250R, DR250SE, XR650R, Cota 315R Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038 Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703 |
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03-06-2009, 04:14 PM
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#1609 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Kingston ON
Oddometer: 532
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get a front master cylinder from a suzuki GS500
Will the brakes lines/banjo bolts fit the GS500 master cylinder? John
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1994 DR350se |
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03-06-2009, 06:12 PM
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#1610 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: CharVegas
Oddometer: 936
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You have to use the banjo bolt at the master cylinder that is for the master cyl. It has a diff thread, but it will still work with the stock line, and braided lines for the dr.
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03-07-2009, 03:20 PM
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#1611 |
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anything but asphalt
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Oddometer: 967
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Hey gang. I just picked up a 94 DR350SE. It came with a supertrapp exhaust. I would like to return it back to stock.
Would any one want to trade - or have a stock muffler for sale? Also - my kill switch does not work. The PO said it stopped working when he switched over to aluminum bars. Any ideas? Thanks David
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1988 Honda XR600R - vintage, street legal torque monster 1996 Suzuki DR350SE - dual sport anvil, buddy bike The Blue Ridge Trail - Virginia via gravel, dirt, two track and backroads. |
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03-07-2009, 03:35 PM
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#1612 |
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ADV B4 DEM/TED
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: N.E.Vic,Australia
Oddometer: 121
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HELP!!!!!!!!!!! This is my sons bike. We have a 1998 dr 350 with a older RMZ 400 muffler on it , the head has had the inlets polished a bit . The tune on the bike is O.K. but the sparkplug shows that it is running rich . It starts quite good 2 to 3 kicks. We have put the twin electrode sparkplug in as well .The carby settings are standard jets on both the needle is on the last clip down and the float is about 1mm lower than standard due to told that thay can suck fuel and not let the rev's off when backing off the throttle . HELP what is the best thing to do to get the engine running sweat!!!!!!! ![]() Please P.M. me.
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Tezza. KTM 990 ADVENTURE. ![]() KTM 520 EXE. ![]() Now the Perfect pair!!!!
TEZZA screwed with this post 03-07-2009 at 04:22 PM |
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03-07-2009, 04:04 PM
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#1613 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Kingston ON
Oddometer: 532
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new clutch plates, adjustment needed
Hey all
This past winter I installed new clutch plates in my 350. I had the bike out for it's first ride today and had some problems. The clutch will not fully dis-engage when I pull in the clutch lever. If I drive down the street in 1'st gear and press in the clutch lever the bike will continue to move forward at a slow but steady pace. The clutch is not fully dis-engaging. A couple of points. - The cable is old, I have a new one and will be installing it. - My clutch lever is slightly bent, in that when I squeeze it in, it will rub up against the handle bar grip. So I am new to adjusting clutches, am I correct in saying that adjusting the cable only adds or removes slack in the clutch lever? I have about 1/8 - 1/4 inch of slack at the pivot point of the clutch lever. Can anyone walk me thru how to adjust the clutch so I can fully dis-engage it when I pull in the lever? Given that I am running new plates can I expect some drag for the first couple hundred km's? Any thoughts Thanks, John p.s I didn't get to give the bike a proper ride but the pumper carb I installed sure feels great ![]()
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1994 DR350se |
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03-07-2009, 07:03 PM
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#1614 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Lenoir, NC
Oddometer: 40
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PM sent on exaust
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03-08-2009, 07:16 AM
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#1615 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 52
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Hi guys, new DR owner here. Picked up a 97 SE recently and love everything about it except the Lakers color scheme.
My question, has anyone purchased the seat/tank covers on ebay that are from Argentina or some such? If you have, can you post some pics? Thanks. |
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03-08-2009, 08:19 PM
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#1616 |
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1.5 Finger Discount
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Oddometer: 20,073
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Ok, I bled the front brake again today.
I think I did a little bit better than last time. While I was cleaning up I was looking over the caliper and trying to get a look at the pads when I realized the rotors looked a little dirty. Don't know why I never looked at them that closely before, too focused on the rest of the brakes I guess. I ran my fingers across the surface and found that there was a very thin layer of some sort of grease, almost like road grime, on it that visibly rubbed off on my fingers. So I grabbed a can of brake cleaner and a clean terry cloth and went to town on them. After about 30 sec the rag was black enough that light could not escape it's surface. In the end the rotor looks a lot cleaner now and I hit the rear as well which was only a little dirty. Took her out for a spin and at higher speeds it feels like I could almost tuck the front end under if I tried hard enough. The braking has improved massively, but I'm not sure what was on them in the first place. ![]() Thanks for the tips guys!!
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"Try turning that burn into torque. Then we're getting somewhere. Riding the potato to work seems quite impractical." - anotherguy "Never bring a Nerf gun to a shovel fight." - My Brother |
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03-08-2009, 08:22 PM
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#1617 |
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1.5 Finger Discount
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Oddometer: 20,073
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I've also got another question, about how long does it take your DRs to warm up? I remember reading in a manual that these bikes don't like you to give them any throttle when they're cold. Mine is that way. I have to let it idle for about 5min after taking the choke off (if I needed it) and then I have to ride it around bumping the throttle to keep it slightly above idle for about another 10-15 before it stops stumbling off of idle.
Could my jetting be a little off?
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"Try turning that burn into torque. Then we're getting somewhere. Riding the potato to work seems quite impractical." - anotherguy "Never bring a Nerf gun to a shovel fight." - My Brother |
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03-08-2009, 08:43 PM
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#1618 | |
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plainsman
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: out in the great wide open
Oddometer: 89,020
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Quote:
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03-08-2009, 09:40 PM
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#1619 |
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plainsman
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: out in the great wide open
Oddometer: 89,020
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Are those of you who are using a Clarke tank on your DR350's still using the stock petcock?
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03-08-2009, 09:49 PM
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#1620 | |
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Rocket Surgeon
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Population 174
Oddometer: 1,519
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Quote:
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