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Old 07-02-2013, 02:35 PM   #16471
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 335
Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules View Post
That is a Scott's steering damper, and is quite a desirable bit if aftermarket kit. I'm sure any inmate here would gladly trade you that get-up for a stock oil filler cap :)

There is a procedure to check oil on from the bottom end of the motor, but it must be done when cold. A running or warm bike moves oil up into a reservoir in the frame, which is where one would check oil level on a warmed up bike.
We're posting at the same time :)

The procedure to check oil when cold isn't really a good check. You take out the phillips screw down near the bottom of the clutch side, below and to the front of where the kick start is (or would be on e-start).

If oil does NOT leak out, you don't have enough to safely run the motor....but it doesn't really tell you how much you DO have....
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:06 PM   #16472
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
What year? The front axle diameter changed in 94 I think.
97 off road
98 SE
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:14 PM   #16473
teddy_kgb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Under that bolt you will find the dipstick
No, as I mentioned when I remove the bolt there is no dipstick, just a very clean (like stainless steel) threaded bolt. But this is where I put the oil in, correct?

I'm happy that the bike has a lot of quality after market stuff, but as a new rider I wish the bike was a little more user friendly. The guy I bought it from said it has upgraded suspension, a big bore kit and a few other mods, he used to do this big trail ride in new mexico several years.

But even though the bike is California plated it is missing turn signals, brake lights, speedometer/odometer, non DOT tires, and now to find out a dipstick. It is turning into be a bit of a project bike just to get it legal. Anyway, I guess I'll have to do a bit of learning to get it were I need it.

Can anyone give me the steps to check the oil level without a dipstick?
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:24 PM   #16474
markk900
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Yeah, when I posted I assumed that was a "scott" original bracket and assumed (incorrectly) they wouldn't be so dumb as to leave you without a dipstick.

I'd probably make a dipstick - do a normal oil change, and fill up with the correct, measured known quantity. Run the bike for a little while, then make a dipstick out of a coat hanger or something similar. Piece of tape to show a known spot, stick it in the open filler hole down to your mark, and pull it out. Whatever it shows is likely to be pretty close to the normal mark so use that as a reference going forward.

Stock dipstick is pretty much a 6" or 7" straight rod, but none of that matters as long as you have some kind of reference and you use it the same way each time.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:54 PM   #16475
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow4aaron View Post
There are used ones on ebay if would like a replacement.
I have a couple in a parts box. You pay shipping ($6) and I'll send you one. PM me if interested.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:03 PM   #16476
gladesteen
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Joined: May 2013
Location: New Hampshire
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Cush Drive Shim! Amazing difference!

WOW!

I need to tell you guys about this.
If you have a CUSH sprocket setup, you must do this.
It made a H U G E difference in the way the bike feels on/off throttle.

Basically you shim either side of the "CUSH" rubber V shaped isolators inside your rear sprocket so it will sit tighter on the wheel. What that does is virtually eliminate any lag on or off throttle.

Before when i used to let off throttle at say 30mph i would get this lag then JERK like the chain was loose when it engaged to hit the chain/sprocket. It was the gaps on either side of the CUSH rubber!! Now its IMMEDIATE response to get power to wheel either on or off throttle.

I ended up shimming mine with the plastic box tie straps. Such as the stuff wrapped on a pallet, etc. Its firm / hard plastic. Just cut it into 1" strips and shim either side of your rubber CUSH isolators. The result was incredible! I put one on each side of my CUSH isolator and that enabled a tight match when i installed sprocket to wheel.

Here's a vid that shows process...same thing, different bike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wukEZO1cdc

Hope it helps !

-Mark
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:52 PM   #16477
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
A cush drive is a shock absorber for the driveline. My Ducati has it (sprocket bolts are mounted in rubber bushings) as does my BMW boxer (spring loaded bit in the trans).

Here's a thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411129
Thanks guys. I get smarter everyday I read this.

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Old 07-02-2013, 08:25 PM   #16478
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddy_kgb View Post
No, as I mentioned when I remove the bolt there is no dipstick, just a very clean (like stainless steel) threaded bolt. But this is where I put the oil in, correct?

Can anyone give me the steps to check the oil level without a dipstick?
Just as a note - based on my DR with riser/backset/HDB clamp - the stock dipstick would be a pain to get out with that tab/etc. in the way.





For now, a stick which you dip in will get you started. Longer term, I would get another bolt (perhaps a wingbolt?), drill a hole into the end and press/epoxy a rod into it.

Do an oil change with carefully measured fresh oil. That's your top mark. I recall about 3/4 inch range on the stock stick.
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This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:43 PM   #16479
teeveecasualty
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
here is how mine is mounted. Looks like the same cable you have.

Thanks for the several good replies.

Jackanory, this configuration has been working for you? This is how I originally installed it and then rode it for about 10 minutes before the small rubber boot behind the bracket got pulled underneath the bracket and the cable lost all tension. The entire cable housing was pulling forward with the cable. I assumed it was because nothing was holding the housing in place on the back side of the bracket.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:06 PM   #16480
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeveecasualty View Post
Thanks for the several good replies.

Jackanory, this configuration has been working for you? This is how I originally installed it and then rode it for about 10 minutes before the small rubber boot behind the bracket got pulled underneath the bracket and the cable lost all tension. The entire cable housing was pulling forward with the cable. I assumed it was because nothing was holding the housing in place on the back side of the bracket.
That is bizarre, I can't for the life of me figure out how that can be happening. The metal tube has a lip that fits on the front side of the bracket and prevents it from being pulled through the bracket towards the clutch actuating arm. Are you sure you have it mounted correctly?

If you look at my pic again you can see that lip on one side of the bracket and the rubber seal on the opposite.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:09 PM   #16481
Friedom
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gas tank layout

Re worded post:

My 90 dr350 came with a broken aftermarket tank and a stock tank without hardware to mount it, like a bracket in front, or rubber grommets to mount onto the frame. Can someone explain how the grommets mount in/on the frame shield?

Friedom screwed with this post 07-03-2013 at 12:34 AM
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:34 PM   #16482
teeveecasualty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
That is bizarre, I can't for the life of me figure out how that can be happening. The metal tube has a lip that fits on the front side of the bracket and prevents it from being pulled through the bracket towards the clutch actuating arm. Are you sure you have it mounted correctly?

If you look at my pic again you can see that lip on one side of the bracket and the rubber seal on the opposite.
the housing was being pulled forward, away from the actuating arm as the cable pulled the arm forward. So you're saying on yours there is not only a rubber boot on the end of the metal cable housing tip, but also a rubber seal underneath it that seats into that recessed slot on the metal tube? If so, then that is the part I am missing. My previous cable was the other configuration and for whatever reason the new cable did not contain that rubber seal.

Thanks again for the clarification.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:50 PM   #16483
MrPulldown
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The solid tube clutch cable housing was on the earlier years. The threaded end one for the later years. I was under the impression that they were inter changeable.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #16484
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friedom View Post
Hey guys, I'm fixing up a 90 dr350 that I just got on the cheap. It's got a big plastic tank on it, dunno if it's IMS, Acerbis, or what. Anyhow it looks like it took a hard rock nap and split the right side of the tank lengthwise across the whole thing. P.o. Tried to bondo it, to no avail. Split wide open first day.

I'm pretty certain it's past the factory warranty. I've seen lots of threads about repairing them, mostly people saying talk to manufacturer/it can't be done. Anyone have success trying something themselves?

That's not what I'm posting for though.. The previous owner purchased a tank off of Ebay, but said it didn't fit. It's clearly a dr350 stock tank, but the two holes on the seat side are the wrong distance apart to match the holes in the frame that the parts schematics say they go into. The aftermarket tank has a plate that moves those bolts forward a few inches, but the holes on the plate are also too far apart to match up with the tank.
On the other side, where the tank has the metal extrusions that on most bikes mount on to the rubber bushings, there are no bushings. But on the guard plate that goes under the tank (around the frame) it looks like there are two or three places that something or other mounts to.

Can someone help clarify how this should go? The aftermarket tank mounts to separate bolts just below the oil fill via metal brackets that I see no compatibility with the stock tank for. Do I have a stock tank from wrong year? Am I missing some intermediary hardware? Anyone point me to a diagram, picture, etch-a-sketch, something?
The dirt model and street model tanks mount differently. Which model bike do you have, and which stock tank do you have?
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:36 AM   #16485
Friedom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
The dirt model and street model tanks mount differently. Which model bike do you have, and which stock tank do you have?
Dunno. Way modded. How can i tell what kind of tank and what kind of bike?
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