ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-19-2013, 08:08 AM   #16771
a1fa
Riding Nomad™
 
a1fa's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 13,558
Sweet. I need to do the same thing.
__________________
Learn to ride. Ride to learn.
a1fa is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 08:57 AM   #16772
fossriver
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: The convergence zone
Oddometer: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
so why do your sidecovers have 2 fasteners? have i just never noticed this on other dr's? I know both my 99 350se and my 93 250s have only one screw per side but yours has twice as many?!

and I've been toying with the idea of using tamper-resistant screws in the side covers and battery box locations. I live in a very urban area (especially for Arkansaw) and park my bike overnight at a hospital and on a college campus a lot. Just don't want to walk out one pre-dawn morning and find my side covers torn off by vandals or my battery missing. Anybody else tried this? I've found screws at McMaster Carr somewhat reasonable ($5.46 for 10) but they're bevel-headed flat-faced screws that use an 82* bevel and the corresponding washers (which are a big part of the security feature) are $12.27/each?! I've been specifically looking at pin-torx fasteners but need to put some more time into it.

EDIT: looks like FMW fasteners in Houston, TX will be getting my business for this. Fastenal is my preferred local vendor but they've got squat in this area so I'll order. Free shipping sure helps!! FMW carries button head and flat faced bevel headed screws. Both very reasonable but I can't find specifics for the beveled heads so I'll call them tomorrow about washers and if nothing works easily/cheaply I'll go with the button heads, as they're tougher to grab with pliers than the flats without corresponding washers, but flats WITH washers are very tough to defeat without a power tool or the correct bit. I know the bits are available inexpensively at auto parts stores nowadays (thanks mostly to MAF sensors) but I still like the idea of these screws better than ordinary phillips or hex bolts and since I have to purchase screws anyway (bike came without side covers or the screws to retain them) I might as well spend a little more once and buy some peace-of-mind.
Those are the Maier side panels. https://www.maier-mfg.com/catalog/su...50-side-panels They don't come with tab that fits inside the seat pan, so you get to drill two holes in each side. The second bolt attaches to the frame where there is a grommet and hole (on my SE). They came with hardware that I got frustrated by, so I just used auto body clips with the nut attached. I imagine that Torx bolts might be enough to deter most thieves.
fossriver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 10:22 AM   #16773
mwilliamshs
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by fossriver View Post
Makes sense! Kinda lame of Maier but I'd probly use the clip nuts too or even better IMO a well nut that fit snugly in the grommet. Couple turns to tighten, couple turns to loosen, nothing to lose, nothing to rattle. Harley taught me a few things worth knowing.
mwilliamshs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 11:05 AM   #16774
fossriver
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: The convergence zone
Oddometer: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Makes sense! Kinda lame of Maier but I'd probly use the clip nuts too or even better IMO a well nut that fit snugly in the grommet. Couple turns to tighten, couple turns to loosen, nothing to lose, nothing to rattle. Harley taught me a few things worth knowing.
Thanks, that sounds like a better long term solution. One bolt is a m6 and the other is 1/4" that's reason enough to keep fiddling. Keeping everything metric cuts down on the tools I need on me.
fossriver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 12:54 PM   #16775
LoopGaroo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Friendly Humboldt Park, Chicago, IL
Oddometer: 176
I just rebuilt my carb and adjusted my valves for the first time. I'm still new to this bike... This is a dirt model with the pumper carb.

I'm having starting problems. The bike will start after about 15 kicks, but only with the choke OFF, if I pull the choke the bike will shudder and die.

I pulled the carb out and took a look at the choke lever, it looks fine, it was having trouble staying out so I wrapped a zip tie around the boot it supply it with more tension. It seems to function better now in that regard, but i can't figure out why it's not increasing the rpms when I pull the choke out!

Another little problem I'm having is that I can't figure out if the carb vent lines connect to anything else or if they just vent back towards the shock. Maybe these issues are connected?

On a positive note, the bike wouldn't start cold unless you used the choke before, so at least that has improved!
LoopGaroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #16776
NH Mudder
Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 11
Bluhduh

Hey all, I need some help.

Picked up a 1997 dr350se a while back, only for 400 bucks. Bought it as a non-runner, got it home, cleaned out the carb, installed a new battery, and new Acerbis tank. Also along the way I had to install all new top end gaskets. Uncle works at a machine shop so he did the valves, and also honed the cylinder out for me while I had it apart.

My problem now is the bike will only start on full choke. I can rev it up somewhat on full choke, but as soon as I let off the throttle it will die right away. Choke in, dies straight off. I already previously cleaned out the carb real good, threw in a new needle and replaced a few o-rings. It has the stock carb, stock airbox and stock exhaust/muffler set up. Also to note, I do have the vent line from the carb capped off with the new tank set up. What should my next step be?

I will throw some pictures up later as soon as I figured this new phone out to show what I'm working with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
Semper Fidelis

NH Mudder screwed with this post 07-19-2013 at 02:20 PM
NH Mudder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #16777
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by NH Mudder View Post
Hey all, I need some help.

Picked up a 1997 dr350se a while back, only for 400 bucks. Bought it as a non-runner, got it home, cleaned out the carb, installed a new battery, and new Acerbis tank. Also along the way I had to install all new top end gaskets. Uncle works at a machine shop so he did the valves, and also honed the cylinder out for me while I had it apart.

My problem now is the bike will only start on full choke. I can rev it up somewhat on full choke, but as soon as I let off the throttle it will die right away. Choke in, dies straight off. I already previously cleaned out the carb real good, threw in a new needle and replaced a few o-rings. It has the stock tm33 carb, stock airbox and stock exhaust/muffler set up. Also to note, I do have the vent line from the carb capped off with the new tank set up. What should my next step be?

I will throw some pictures up later as soon as I figured this new phone out to show what I'm working with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think your bike came stock with a BST33 CV carb. The TM33 pumper carb came on the dirt models. You should cap off the vacume port on the carb for the diaphram petcock, (might be what you meant) but not the float bowl vent. Look up "T" mod. Since it needs the "choke", it's lean. Look for intake leaks and stopped up jets.
2bold2getold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 02:39 PM   #16778
mwilliamshs
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I think your bike came stock with a BST33 CV carb. The TM33 pumper carb came on the dirt models. You should cap off the vacume port on the carb for the diaphram petcock, (might be what you meant) but not the float bowl vent. Look up "T" mod. Since it needs the "choke", it's lean. Look for intake leaks and stopped up jets.
^all true^ In my experience the bike SHOULD need the choke for a cold start or you'll be too rich and shouldn't need it to run or you'll be too lean. Choke to start and warm up if it's chilly, then run without. Jetting a carb can be a challenge the first couple times or after an intake/exhaust mod but once you get it dialed it is SOOO worth it.
mwilliamshs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 04:05 PM   #16779
NH Mudder
Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I think your bike came stock with a BST33 CV carb. The TM33 pumper carb came on the dirt models. You should cap off the vacume port on the carb for the diaphram petcock, (might be what you meant) but not the float bowl vent. Look up "T" mod. Since it needs the "choke", it's lean. Look for intake leaks and stopped up jets.
Thanks for the quick response. You were right it is a BST33.
I looked up the T-vent mod like you said. The picture I posted above was from that thread, the cap I have on is capped off just like in the picture above on the right side of the carb, but to the left where the T-vent mod is, I just have nothing on that port.

Looks like I'll be tearing into the carb again to check those jets.
__________________
Semper Fidelis
NH Mudder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 04:09 PM   #16780
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
I know..im a dick..lol

ok, so like a few pages back...(SOMEHWERE?!?!) i seen something about someone running a 5.10x18 Kenda K270 on the back of the bike, can someone verify that this will work on the DR350? cuz i found one CHEAP, brand new, and if it'll fit FOR SURE ill go buy it in the morning. lol just curious though.

Someone oughta make a spec sheet for what WILL and WONT fit. Plugs, Tires, Tubes, ETc Etc, probably save us all from typing out shit when someone like me (although im kinda dumb..) asks a repetitive question. thanks boys!

-Herp Derpington-....
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 04:15 PM   #16781
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by NH Mudder View Post
Thanks for the quick response. You were right it is a BST33.
I looked up the T-vent mod like you said. The picture I posted above was from that thread, the cap I have on is capped off just like in the picture above on the right side of the carb, but to the left where the T-vent mod is, I just have nothing on that port.

Looks like I'll be tearing into the carb again to check those jets.
The idle/slow jet has a very small hole in it, and sometimes hard to clean or even see if it's clean. You can run a small piece of wire through it if necessary. Some people think it's better to replace them, but really, if I replaced every idle jet that stopped up on me, I'd need to buy stock in the company.
2bold2getold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 04:34 PM   #16782
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
ok, so like a few pages back...(SOMEHWERE?!?!) i seen something about someone running a 5.10x18 Kenda K270 on the back of the bike, can someone verify that this will work on the DR350? cuz i found one CHEAP, brand new, and if it'll fit FOR SURE ill go buy it in the morning. lol just curious though.

Someone oughta make a spec sheet for what WILL and WONT fit. Plugs, Tires, Tubes, ETc Etc, probably save us all from typing out shit when someone like me (although im kinda dumb..) asks a repetitive question. thanks boys!

-Herp Derpington-....
No problem...

Been running them for about a year.

2bold2getold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 05:32 PM   #16783
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
No problem...

Been running them for about a year.

NICE!! thanks man. guess ill be buying it! lol i was amazed at how much BIGGER the knobs were on the 510 versus the one i have now. i think its a 410? i cant remmeber off hand. all i know is, it looks way better and is cheap! 60 bucks. Yeah buddy!
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 05:42 PM   #16784
Crenshaw
Bum
 
Crenshaw's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
5.10 k270

My bike came with the 5.10 k270 on the rear. No fitment problems and I think it's a great tire for the price. Holding out to buy a new one until absolutely necessary.
__________________
DR350
Crenshaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 05:48 PM   #16785
DualDog
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Galesburg, IL
Oddometer: 158
Keys

I live in a pretty small town, I have had numerous keys duplicated by just taking them in and they are reproduced while I wait for $3. I guess this little mom and pop shop must keep tons of keys on hand.

My current garage has a 93 Suzuki DR350, 99Kawasaki KLR650, 89 Honda Transalp, 99 Yamaha Big Bear ATV and 04 Suzuki 400 Eiger ATV. I also have cheap cargo boxes on the back racks of two bikes. One from JC Whitney and that a Chinese box looked to resemble a GIVI. Everything I bring in for the bikes, atv, or cargo boxes they reproduce a key and cost is $3. Guess I thought this was the norm.
DualDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014