ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-31-2013, 02:28 AM   #16981
slartidbartfast
Love those blue pipes
 
slartidbartfast's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,853
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
Are the rails from all dirt versions aluminum? I know both my 250s and 350se are steel. Thinking a polished rail might look good and save weight. (I know the weight savings would be minimal)
Yes, they are aluminium and they don't have turn signal mounting tabs. I bought one thinking it was steel and I could weld it up into a luggage rack. It's sitting on the shelf and I'd like to move it on for a modest price. PM me if interested
__________________
MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
slartidbartfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 03:12 AM   #16982
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagletalon View Post
Hello gang!

I'm looking forward to buying a DR 350 as my first bike as I would like to do some light trails here in the Sandbox state. I found this 1998 DR with 20K on it. I asked regarding maintenance and he said all he has done is just oil changes and that's about it. His asking price is $1,500. There is also another one but that one is 1994 with 15K but he is asking $2,000 but the maintenance is more detailed on that one. Any suggestions? Prices seem reasonable? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
John
Also, the 94's were known to have crank issues...
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 04:38 AM   #16983
Thanantos
Ride hard.
 
Thanantos's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 3,654
Quote:
Originally Posted by vonreckless View Post
This summer my son and I both bought low km DR350s--a 96 and a 97. I'm replying here to join this thread and learn as much as I can about these impressive little bikes.
Welcome to it. My son had one a few years ago and I think I rode it more than he did. He eventually sold his, and when I sold my KLR this summer I knew exactly what I wanted :)
__________________
2013 V-Strom
Thanantos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 06:25 AM   #16984
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
Also, the 94's were known to have crank issues...
Not just '94. I had a '97 with the drilled thu crank.
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 07:44 AM   #16985
Eagletalon
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Apopka, FL
Oddometer: 399
Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
Glad to offer. Lots of good info on this thread. There are some very good techs here and answers to most of your DR related inquiries.

What part of Flatistan? Lots of activity around the panhandle.
I'm north of Orlando which is far away from the panhandle.

Later
John
Eagletalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 10:02 AM   #16986
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,937
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Not just '94. I had a '97 with the drilled thu crank.
It is said that the 94+ had the counter balance pin issue. THough I think by now if they have not grenaded, you are fine.
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 12:58 PM   #16987
mwilliamshs
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 219
^yes & no^

"If by now they haven't grenaded" is probably true but only, IMO, in the case (pun intended) of a bike with considerable mileage. A 94 with 1,500mi can go either way in short order. Same with a 97 with 3,000miles. I'd be more apt to trust a 97 than a 94 but under 5k mi I'd be cautiously optimistic. Not magic or meaningful mileage figures btw, just out of thin air.
mwilliamshs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 01:14 PM   #16988
GSAragazzi
Beastly Adventurer
 
GSAragazzi's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: The Purgatory of Suburbia
Oddometer: 1,386
Mine is a 96, I think it would have lasted forever doing the type of runs that kept it under 50mph and not on a constant speed but more of an on and off throttle. Mine exploded after 20 minutes of highway run at 70mph (7k rpm or so). It died at 13k miles....
It's all good now bc I had the engine rebuilt and that pin issue corrected with jb weld per the instructions of Kientech. Not a cheap thing to do, total cost was a bit over $1500, YES I know that's more than the bike is worth.
http://www.kientech.com/dr350crankshaftfailurealert.htm

According the the mechanic who worked on it the hotter the piston got the longer the stroke and eventually it got out of synch . Who knows - I surely don't- but it may be wise to do some preventive jb welding jic.
__________________
"The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday"
GSAragazzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 01:26 PM   #16989
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,937
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSAragazzi View Post
Mine is a 96, I think it would have lasted forever doing the type of runs that kept it under 50mph and not on a constant speed but more of an on and off throttle. Mine exploded after 20 minutes of highway run at 70mph (7k rpm or so). It died at 13k miles....
It's all good now bc I had the engine rebuilt and that pin issue corrected with jb weld per the instructions of Kientech. Not a cheap thing to do, total cost was a bit over $1500, YES I know that's more than the bike is worth.
http://www.kientech.com/dr350crankshaftfailurealert.htm

According the the mechanic who worked on it the hotter the piston got the longer the stroke and eventually it got out of synch . Who knows - I surely don't- but it may be wise to do some preventive jb welding jic.

Wow, Jsut goes to show. at 13K? I have not heard of one of these failures in a while. I figure all the ones that would blow have already done so.

I thought the Kientech fix was some oversized pin with a shoulder? If I was that deep into my engine, I think that I would do something more than jstu JB weld it. Pablo and Distech both tig welded theirs with no filler. Do not want to disrupt balance.

How did this topic get brought up. Someone deciding between a 98+SE and an older one. Unless beat to hell, go for the 98+ for sure.
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 01:34 PM   #16990
GSAragazzi
Beastly Adventurer
 
GSAragazzi's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: The Purgatory of Suburbia
Oddometer: 1,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Wow, Jsut goes to show. at 13K? I have not heard of one of these failures in a while. I figure all the ones that would blow have already done so.

I thought the Kientech fix was some oversized pin with a shoulder? If I was that deep into my engine, I think that I would do something more than jstu JB weld it. Pablo and Distech both tig welded theirs with no filler. Do not want to disrupt balance.

How did this topic get brought up. Someone deciding between a 98+SE and an older one. Unless beat to hell, go for the 98+ for sure.
Here's the link for those who may want to do the JB Weld, not sure it's the best way to go or the right way. But it's what I decided on. MrPulldown has a point about oversized pins and real welding tho...
Link
http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall...350_crank.html

I may have 100 miles since the rebuild and so far no issues. I know 100 miles is not a standard for quality control.
__________________
"The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday"
GSAragazzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:14 PM   #16991
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSAragazzi View Post
Here's the link for those who may want to do the JB Weld, not sure it's the best way to go or the right way. But it's what I decided on. MrPulldown has a point about oversized pins and real welding tho...
Link
http://webpages.charter.net/jrandall...350_crank.html

I may have 100 miles since the rebuild and so far no issues. I know 100 miles is not a standard for quality control.
Yeah, that's link my webpage. I did that fix on the '97 motor about 3 years ago and ran that engine at least 10K afterwards. Took it down for minor top end work about 5K miles in and since I was close I went ahead and pulled the jug off to look. The JB Weld "fix" was still in place. Since then I ran across a fresh '93 motor and dropped it in the bike but I still have the '97 motor and when the '93 starts to get tired I'll refresh the cylinder and head on the '97 and reinstall it with the JB Weld plug in place.

FWIW, I've had several DR350 and they all started to loose their "stuff" about 20K - 25K miles. Plus, they all used a good bit of oil after 10K or so. I think when I rebuild the '97 motor I'm going to send the cylinder away and have it Nikasil plated to see if that will extend the service life. It certainly works for the DR650. I recently replaced my 1st DR650 at 40K miles. It was still running great and didn't consume ANY oil at that mileage. I only replaced it because I ran across another low mileage one at a price I couldn't pass up.

Anyhow, back to the point, Jesse does a more robust fix. I beleive he disassembles the crank, welds up the existing hole then drills a new one to the proper depth. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money to prevent a low probability failure.
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:17 PM   #16992
GSAragazzi
Beastly Adventurer
 
GSAragazzi's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: The Purgatory of Suburbia
Oddometer: 1,386
Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Yeah, that's link my webpage. I did that fix on the '97 motor about 3 years ago and ran that engine at least 10K afterwards. Took it down for minor top end work about 5K miles in and since I was close I went ahead and pulled the jug off to look. The JB Weld "fix" was still in place. Since then I ran across a fresh '93 motor and dropped it in the bike but I still have the '97 motor and when the '93 starts to get tired I'll refresh the cylinder and head on the '97 and reinstall it with the JB Weld plug in place.


Anyhow, back to the point, Jesse does a more robust fix. I beleive he disassembles the crank, welds up the existing hole then drills a new one to the proper depth. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money to prevent a low probability failure.
Right, the reason why I followed your fix.. Thanks man!
__________________
"The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday"
GSAragazzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:43 PM   #16993
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,937
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=86


The swingarm boxing that I mentioned a few pages back is done by the same dude.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=620198&page=5
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 02:59 PM   #16994
thump!
Adventurer
 
thump!'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=86


The swingarm boxing that I mentioned a few pages back is done by the same dude.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=620198&page=5
Pablo is obviously a verly skilled welder. However, personally I would be reluctant to weld the counterbalancer gear to the pin as he did since it would seem to me a high probably of degrading the annealing/hardening that gear teeth usually have. Probably didn't take much of an arc to do what he did but even so the is a lot of heat in that small area.
thump! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 03:33 PM   #16995
vonreckless
Adventurer
 
vonreckless's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Salmon Arm, BC, Canada
Oddometer: 35
Achilles heal

Am I to understand that this crank pin issue is the Achilles heal of the DR350? Are there other weaknesses I should know about?

So far, I think the lesson is don't sustain high revs around 7K for long (vary your highway speed) and do the quick fix if you are in the top of the engine for other reasons.

I can't see pulling the cylinders off the two low km bikes I have for the off chance the pins fail--unless I am underestimating the failure rate. Comments?
vonreckless is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014