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Old 03-31-2009, 05:11 PM   #1696
jcalis
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Location: S.E. Massachusetts
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Cartridge forks on the DR's take about 18 oz per tube. Run the oil level about 150mm from the top w/ the tubes compressed. Use "5w" fork oil.

Depending on your weight, .45kg springs will be a nice upgrade.

Be careful if you use LED lights on the stock off-road models, they are 12v AC systems. Some led lights have built in diodes and will work fine, some will not and be very dim. You can always buy a regulator / rectifier to replace the stock AC regulator and add a battery if you wish.
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:39 AM   #1697
wide
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Just bought one of these little babies, pick it up in a couple of days and will post pics when its mine. Mate has one and soo impressed with how well it does everything I thought I would give one a go. I will now keep my XR4 for off roading close to home and the DR will be used for longer range stuff.
Although a smaller engine it seems to do roads better than my XR4 with a much nicer engine tone.
Do TKCs work on a DR350?? will be wanting to change the knobblies straight away for a good 50 street 50 dirt tire
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:32 AM   #1698
DustyOne
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Location: Shaken not stirred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcalis
Cartridge forks on the DR's take about 18 oz per tube. Run the oil level about 150mm from the top w/ the tubes compressed. Use "5w" fork oil.

Depending on your weight, .45kg springs will be a nice upgrade.

Be careful if you use LED lights on the stock off-road models, they are 12v AC systems. Some led lights have built in diodes and will work fine, some will not and be very dim. You can always buy a regulator / rectifier to replace the stock AC regulator and add a battery if you wish.
Haven't run the bike yet as I am still putting it back together, but I guess that I'd better read up on that AC Current as I am not an electrical wizz

I do have an Edge Taillight hooked up and the flashers are the Piranha LED Brand V168A that I bought @ Lowe's for about $6.73 each. They work great on my DR650, but we'll see on this bike when it get's on the road. Shoot, here in AZ we don't even need flashers, maybe I should skip them entirely.

Thanks for the fork info jcalis...
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:36 AM   #1699
DustyOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wide
Just bought one of these little babies, pick it up in a couple of days and will post pics when its mine. Mate has one and soo impressed with how well it does everything I thought I would give one a go. I will now keep my XR4 for off roading close to home and the DR will be used for longer range stuff.
Although a smaller engine it seems to do roads better than my XR4 with a much nicer engine tone.
Do TKCs work on a DR350?? will be wanting to change the knobblies straight away for a good 50 street 50 dirt tire
wow....that's a big tire the TKC, don't know if it'll fit or not, but I think with only 349cc you'd want something smaller & closer to the stock tire size for sure
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Old 04-02-2009, 12:12 PM   #1700
tibierdrol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerWolf
1.) Is there one on-line like the DR650 Manual is?
http://www.suzukidr350.com/suzukidr3...jorrepairs.htm

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Old 04-02-2009, 02:55 PM   #1701
EvilGenius
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Location: DFW, Texas
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Well I got the 135 in the mail yesterday and popped it in around lunch time today.

Had to fatten the idle jet a little to keep it from dying just off of idle, but it definitely revs much easier now. I tried to get out on the empty frontage road near my house and top her out, but it's been outrageously windy all day long. The highest I was able to reach was about 72mph (indicated) with the wind behind me before hitting some traffic, which was about 10mph faster than it's ever gone before and about 60mph on the way back. The wind was hard enough to deal with already but when I would get back above the level of the freeway I kept getting hit by some major gusts (the few cars around me were having trouble keeping straight) and the front end was starting to dance around all over the place so I decided that it was good enough.

It may still be skipping in the last 1k rpms or so before redline but, I was too busy trying not to get blown off that I couldn't really tell. However, I am very happy with the performance of this 20 year old, 23k+ mi. motor. My confidence continues to grow with this bike that was more or less a turd when I bought it.

Thanks again guys!

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Old 04-02-2009, 04:52 PM   #1702
DRX350
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Location: Trudging the trenches of bike-dom
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Ok, I'll join in here's my DR(X)350. It's got lot's of goodies...










This at the track, getting dirty...

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Old 04-03-2009, 08:11 AM   #1703
Echo-Echo
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DRX350, that is a nice looking bike. What tank and seat are on there? Looks like the Acerbis headlight kit and front fender.

You might consider running some fork boots in those kind of conditions to.
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Old 04-03-2009, 05:17 PM   #1704
DRX350
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Location: Trudging the trenches of bike-dom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo-Echo
DRX350, that is a nice looking bike. What tank and seat are on there? Looks like the Acerbis headlight kit and front fender.

You might consider running some fork boots in those kind of conditions to.
I run fork skins, I had just taken them off.

The seat is stock, I just painted it black, the front fender is off a KTM 450 EXC. The Tank is an IMS 3.5.

I guess it's not too bad considering it's got 29,000 miles on it now...



PS: I never plan to run in those conditions again if I can help it...
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:12 PM   #1705
oo7alfa
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Location: Columbus OH
Oddometer: 85
Hello all, I am another new Dr350 owner. I just picked up a '91 off Craigslist, inexcellent shape with only 6000 miles for $900. I am very happy...well I was for a couple days. It would start cold in 1 or 2 kicks easily when cold, when hot it was a bit toughter, sometimes taking a lot more kicks, sometimes just 1 kick. I followed the directions I found here to a tee. But that is not my problem, I noticed anytime I would turn the handlebars all the way to the left stop point, the bike would die instantly, like a hit the kill switch. Straighten the bars and it would run fine.

Flash forward to yesterday. I made a quick run the the drugstore and when I came back out, I found the bike would not start for anything. Anyways, long story short, I have ripped apart most of the bike and have found that I have no spark. When I try to kick it, I am getting power to the capacitor(cylinder in where the battery would be, if it had one?), I tested that with a test light. But I am not getting any spark at all. I noticed that one of the wiring harnesses at the head tube has some damage to the wire covering, which may have something to do with the problem of dieing when turning the handlebars(although I see no raw wires as of yet), but I have yet to figure it all out. Any common issues I can check prior to getting out my multimeter and going insane!? It ran just about perfectly for few days, but not now.

Also, here is a pic of my new sweetheart(I'm not ready to kick her to the curb just yet!)!
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:36 PM   #1706
High-Side
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 157
I'm a long time DR350S owner and a first time ADV poster. Mine is a 1992 that has been used as a dirt only bike until I recently converted it to a street-tard. It sure is a blast to ride with the 17" tires and wheels. Below are the before and after pictures.



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Old 04-04-2009, 07:49 PM   #1707
RandyM
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Location: Westminster, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oo7alfa
... I noticed anytime I would turn the handlebars all the way to the left stop point, the bike would die instantly, like a hit the kill switch. Straighten the bars and it would run fine.

Flash forward to yesterday. I made a quick run the the drugstore and when I came back out, I found the bike would not start for anything.
Also, here is a pic of my new sweetheart(I'm not ready to kick her to the curb just yet!)!
On my '99 Dr350 there is a switch on the bottom of the clutch and another on the kickstand that disable starting. On my bike the clutch switch was bypassed by one of the previous owners. I would check the clutch switch and wiring first.

Good luck!
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:04 PM   #1708
RandyM
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Location: Westminster, Ca
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Drop - Flood

A couple weeks ago I dropped my '99 Dr350 for the 1st time and after picking it up, I could not start it. Turned out to be flooded. It happened again today. It takes a couple minutes cranking the engine to clear the flood. I did not do the T-vent mod, and I was wondering it that will help prevent flooding. I have the stock CV carb. Anyone know if this is typical? Any ideas on how to prevent it ( besides not dropping the bike).

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:28 PM   #1709
Country Doc
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Location: somwhere north of Kingston, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,660
I did the T-vent mod as per JCalis's instructions, and I've dumped my DR350 several times. It starts immediately after lying on its side. I'm using the stock CV carb also. I'm not sure if that's the reason, but it makes sense that it would be. I think that the stock Mikuni does have an overflow vent anyway somewhere on the carb that should work even without the T-vent mod. Check all your various ports and make sure they're clear.

My DRZ400, on the other hand, has no overflow vent, and is an absolute frigging bear to start after it tips over, and I am sure I will be stranded in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery one of these days...

dc
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:43 PM   #1710
SeaBass
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM
On my '99 Dr350 there is a switch on the bottom of the clutch and another on the kickstand that disable starting. On my bike the clutch switch was bypassed by one of the previous owners. I would check the clutch switch and wiring first.

Good luck!
Yank that crap off and put jumpers on it. It's just more stuff to break and strand you.
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