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Old 08-14-2013, 09:02 AM   #17326
AleksanderTheGreat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Can you post a pic of the other side - that seems to be where routing makes the most difference.
The other side currently is just black hose line that runs around the top of the carb, but I'm going to snag another one of those filters I think and just do the same on the right side. I also put one of those metal spring things around the hose where it crosses through the frame. I'll snag another picture later and post it up.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:38 AM   #17327
AlfromNH
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What's the largest rear sprocket you can run with the stock chain guide? My bike has a 48 tooth, and it seems to be riding pretty hard on the chain guide rubber.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:53 AM   #17328
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skelethon View Post
this is probably an idiotic question, but if the fuel is shut off at the petcock, wouldn't that eliminate the possibility of leaking through at the carb if your o-rings are bad or your needle isn't seating properly? of course the best practive would be to replace them if needed, but i was just wondering. thanks.
Consider that the petcock must be open for the engine to run.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:02 PM   #17329
dbarale
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Originally Posted by tominboise View Post
Same here - my SV650 gets better mileage in town then my DR350. Interesting...I am running the rejetted CV carb with keintech air box mod.

I get 38mpg with the DR...
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:20 PM   #17330
skelethon
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Consider that the petcock must be open for the engine to run.

Regards,

Derek
hey thanks for that tid bit.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:38 PM   #17331
pdxthmper
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float needle

Can you buy just the float needle, or do you have to get the seat as well? Who has a decent price I check Bike bandit, it was ~45 bucks.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:10 PM   #17332
Wadester
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Originally Posted by pdxthmper View Post
Can you buy just the float needle, or do you have to get the seat as well? Who has a decent price I check Bike bandit, it was ~45 bucks.
Greg Bender has the O-rings. http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...350_orings.htm

To get the needle/seat, I'd go with a Keyster K-583 carb kit


$19 from the mfg:
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-deta...&product_id=34

I recall getting one for about $10 off ebay, but can't find it. They're all $35ish now.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:22 PM   #17333
boardforever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Greg Bender has the O-rings. http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...350_orings.htm

To get the needle/seat, I'd go with a Keyster K-583 carb kit


$19 from the mfg:
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-deta...&product_id=34

I recall getting one for about $10 off ebay, but can't find it. They're all $35ish now.
Yeah I ended up buying the kit from siriusconinc.com should get it in a few days will let you know if that solves my problems.
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:41 PM   #17334
LoopGaroo
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This is a pretty general question, but I'm not sure where else to ask...

I'm going riding with a friend in next weekend and we'd like to use his astrovan to haul the bikes out to the track. I'll need to compress the front suspension 6 inches to get the bike into the van. Is that okay? How can i compress the fork before rolling it in? I was thinking about ratcheting the lower triple to the wheel to compress.

My other option would be to remove the front wheel, but I'm still left with similar dilemma of rolling the bike in without a wheel. What to do? Is it possible to drop the forks in the triples six inches? That could save some trouble.

Thanks.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:00 PM   #17335
Chiknmunky
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Tell your friend to get a truck! (JK) You could use a rachet strap hooked at the bottom of the fork leg up to the handlebars and pull it down, that way you can roll the bike.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #17336
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boardforever View Post
Yeah I ended up buying the kit from siriusconinc.com should get it in a few days will let you know if that solves my problems.
I have a kit available that's a little more complete. It contains a float needle, needle seat o-ring, cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring, float bowl gasket, main jet access plug o-ring, pilot screw o-ring, slide guide o-ring, two felt throttle shaft seals, two stainless steel socket throttle blade screws and instructions. It does not contain the float seat because nothing really ever goes wrong with them.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:03 PM   #17337
MrPulldown
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Rode 15 miles home today on a flat rear tire. Bald trackmaster that I was trying to eek a little more life out of. Was running about 15 psi so the side knobs would engage more. I think I pinched, when I took a hard landing on a rock.

I could have called a friend to get a ride home, but I just finished the hard section and the rest was fire road. I also wanted to test out riding in a flat. I did have a rim lock. First couple of miles were ok. Pretty squirly. Then on a straight section I hit about forty and the bead broke. Nearly lost it. About twenty five mph the last ten miles. The tire was stiff a the beginning of the flat. Now it is fucked up the sidewall is all floppy. The knobs are all pointing at an angle now too.

I was testing the idea that with stiff DOT knobbies and rim locks you could ride with a flat tire, however todays experiance taught me that other than slow dirt roads you can not ride with a flat and rim locks. I will be carry flat repair stuff again.

The rim lock however did save the valve stem. I guess I now know why the lock is mounted so close to the stem. If it was on the other side of the wheel I am sure there would have been enough flex to rip out the valve.

My only concern now is to inspect the inner tube. I had a freash heavy duty tube in there. Hopeing that I can jsut patch up the pinch flat holes and reuse the tube.

MrPulldown screwed with this post 08-15-2013 at 01:40 PM
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:21 AM   #17338
markk900
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Good to know - thanks for sharing. I used to ride trials and tires were practically flat but speeds were low and tires were designed for low pressure. I also spent a fun evening in the Arizona wilds on a Bultaco with a dangerously low tire (nothing to fix it with) and survived, but slow speed was a must.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:04 AM   #17339
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoopGaroo View Post
This is a pretty general question, but I'm not sure where else to ask...

I'm going riding with a friend in next weekend and we'd like to use his astrovan to haul the bikes out to the track. I'll need to compress the front suspension 6 inches to get the bike into the van. Is that okay? How can i compress the fork before rolling it in? I was thinking about ratcheting the lower triple to the wheel to compress.

My other option would be to remove the front wheel, but I'm still left with similar dilemma of rolling the bike in without a wheel. What to do? Is it possible to drop the forks in the triples six inches? That could save some trouble.

Thanks.
When transporting bikes you typically want to ratchet the front suspension pretty much all the way down. You should be alright. Good luck figuring out how to hook the bottom of the fork. Make sure there's no way it could come off inside your van!!!!! Could you imagine?!?
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #17340
pdxthmper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Greg Bender has the O-rings. http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...350_orings.htm

To get the needle/seat, I'd go with a Keyster K-583 carb kit


$19 from the mfg:
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-deta...&product_id=34

I recall getting one for about $10 off ebay, but can't find it. They're all $35ish now.
Thanks I remember now they were out of stock before, one on order now.
cheers
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