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Old 09-16-2013, 08:16 PM   #18076
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeinbreed View Post
Hmm, sounds like something I should try on next oil change as well, neutral isnt too bad but it still takes me a couple of tries. Do you have a link to the writeup/guide you used?
Got all the info in this thread. I have already had the clutch cover off a few times fixing the shift drum bolt issue so that is old hat.

As far as taking some material off the clutch gear I removed the basket then taped some 320 grit emery cloth to the top of my tool box. Sprayed it with some water and then did some figure 8's for a minute or two. Highly unscientific but I am under the impression you only need to take a couple thousands off.

Must have done it right because I buttoned it back up and everything was good. I did use new washer/spacers in there so that might have been the difference. If the clutch drag comes back then I will just have to pull it apart again and take some more material off.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:14 PM   #18077
veriest1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeinbreed View Post
So I mentioned a few pages back I was displeased with the sound of the DG brand exhausts I bought off ebay as it was loud as hell, since it is literally a straight pipe, the only thing diffusing the exhaust is the spark arrestor at the end

Well I put some baffles in there and got it down to pretty much as quiet as stock, it has a nice rumble to it, and when you rev it, it produces that typical thumper sound. I just went to lowes and bought 4x 2" washers, put them on a bolt and spun them on a drill against a file until they were a perfect fit, then riveted them into place. The tube inside the silencer is just a 2" perforated tube with 1/8" holes so 1/8" riveted were a perfect fit. I placed them each a few inches apart. The closest one has a 3/4" hole (but I may take it out and drill some smaller holes around it) the next is 5/8 hole with 3x 3/8 smaller holes in a triangle around it, and the last 2 are just 1/2 inch holes. The idea sort of mimics a firearm suppressor, with chambers where the gas is slowed down and is able to diffuse better into the packing.

The exhaust seems to run perfectly, starts right up, and there is no crazy gun shot backfiring.

with a stock exhaust being a 1 and the unmodified DG exhaust being a 10, I would put this somewhere at a 2 for idle noise and around town, and maybe a 3 for highway cruising.

If anyone is interested I could possibly make a video/detail how I made it this weekend.

Well worth it to get rid of my stock rusting discolored exhaust.
Details please!

My Jardine gets on my nerves. But my luggage doesn't get as hot as with the stock can so I run it anyway.

Sent from my HTC using magic.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:13 PM   #18078
scharfg
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4.00-18 versus 4.6-18 versus 4.5-18 for DR350 Rear Tire

Hi tire newb here.

My DR350 was running a Kenda K270 in 4.5x18", by mistake I ordered a replacement in 4.6x18".

It sure looked skinny compared to the 4.5 (4.3" wide versus 4.8"), it was only 4 ply and had a load rating of 600lbs versus 800lbs for the 4.5.

The 4.6 seemed to perform well as I got near 5000 miles out of it and completed the Washington Backroads Discovery Route on that skinny rear tire.

My store does not have any 4.5 or 4.6 left in stock so I was looking at the 4.00x18" and noticed it was cheaper, had 6 plies, was the same width as the 4.6, has a 700lb load rating and is and its OD is in between the 4.5 and 4.6.

Is there any reason I should not go with the 4.00 for my DR350 rear replacement?

Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:13 PM   #18079
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeinbreed View Post
So I mentioned a few pages back I was displeased with the sound of the DG brand exhausts I bought off ebay as it was loud as hell, since it is literally a straight pipe, the only thing diffusing the exhaust is the spark arrestor at the end

Well I put some baffles in there and got it down to pretty much as quiet as stock, it has a nice rumble to it, and when you rev it, it produces that typical thumper sound. I just went to lowes and bought 4x 2" washers, put them on a bolt and spun them on a drill against a file until they were a perfect fit, then riveted them into place. The tube inside the silencer is just a 2" perforated tube with 1/8" holes so 1/8" riveted were a perfect fit. I placed them each a few inches apart. The closest one has a 3/4" hole (but I may take it out and drill some smaller holes around it) the next is 5/8 hole with 3x 3/8 smaller holes in a triangle around it, and the last 2 are just 1/2 inch holes. The idea sort of mimics a firearm suppressor, with chambers where the gas is slowed down and is able to diffuse better into the packing.

The exhaust seems to run perfectly, starts right up, and there is no crazy gun shot backfiring.

with a stock exhaust being a 1 and the unmodified DG exhaust being a 10, I would put this somewhere at a 2 for idle noise and around town, and maybe a 3 for highway cruising.

If anyone is interested I could possibly make a video/detail how I made it this weekend.

Well worth it to get rid of my stock rusting discolored exhaust.
Would like to see some pictures. not sure how one rivits a disk inside a tube. So now the gas has to pass through the center hole in the washer. I guess the has can also go into the outer camber through the perforations and out the last baffle section.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #18080
AleksanderTheGreat
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Not sure if other exhausts have anything more in depth, but what was inside the DG exhaust was basically this tube that connected from the midpipe, and ran from end cap to end cap on in the silencer, wrapped in fiberglass packing

http://www.permagro.net/wp-content/g...ated_tubes.jpg

so what I did was just get washers, sand them so they would perfectly fit into there, and then use rivets to basically stand them in place from one side, and then sandwiched them with rivets from the other side so they wouldn't move anywhere.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:42 AM   #18081
skelethon
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what DG can do you have? I have a DG too (the round can) and it doesn't seem overly loud compared to some other exhausts ive heard. at idle it is actually pretty quiet. it probably needs to be re-packed soon so I will have a look.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:44 AM   #18082
Askor200
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Exact ground clearance

Hey all, could someone with a 1998 dirt model (or similar) measure their exact ground clearance if possible with the stock bash plate on? My bike is in bits at the moment and I'm making a small lift for it :) cheers
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:45 AM   #18083
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Askor200 View Post
Hey all, could someone with a 1998 dirt model (or similar) measure their exact ground clearance if possible with the stock bash plate on? My bike is in bits at the moment and I'm making a small lift for it :) cheers
FWIW this one works perfectly
http://www.harborfreight.com/350-lb-...and-66552.html
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:08 AM   #18084
AC909
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I am still going through the DR I just recently purchased and have a question about the rack. It looks like it is an OEM piece, matching tubular design and paint, but is completley seperate from the grab handle. The rack mounts to the front grab handle mount point and also has two forks that slide down over the turn signal stem studs. I would take a picture but am away from my camera. Does anyone have this rack or know which model it is? I looked up the rack on the microfiche and it looks like the OEM rack is one piece incorperating the grab bar and rack. I am not a big fan of one of the mounting points being on the turn signal studs so I am wondering if anyone has experience hauling a load with this design.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:01 AM   #18085
AleksanderTheGreat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skelethon View Post
what DG can do you have? I have a DG too (the round can) and it doesn't seem overly loud compared to some other exhausts ive heard. at idle it is actually pretty quiet. it probably needs to be re-packed soon so I will have a look.
I have the oval series,


it's straight through 2" (probably 1 7/8" ID) with some pretty loose packing around it. I can't imagine the R version being much quieter unless the outlet is smaller somehow or different internal design, and then again I've not heard any other aftermarket exhausts for this bike, but out of the box this exhaust would crackle, back fire and was INCREDIBLY loud, and just sounded like a monster, now it has a nice growl and sounds much smoother, more refined but still has that thumper sound when you give it some gas.

I really did not care about upping performance as much as having a nice smooth sound comparable to stock, my old stock exhaust was rusting and turning that white steel color and it would get mega hot.

I wish they made carbon fiber exhausts for this bike, when I had one on my CBR 600, I could run that thing all day at free way speeds and grab the can with my bare hand and not burn myself.

AleksanderTheGreat screwed with this post 09-17-2013 at 07:23 AM
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:53 AM   #18086
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
Hi tire newb here.

My DR350 was running a Kenda K270 in 4.5x18", by mistake I ordered a replacement in 4.6x18".

It sure looked skinny compared to the 4.5 (4.3" wide versus 4.8"), it was only 4 ply and had a load rating of 600lbs versus 800lbs for the 4.5.

The 4.6 seemed to perform well as I got near 5000 miles out of it and completed the Washington Backroads Discovery Route on that skinny rear tire.

My store does not have any 4.5 or 4.6 left in stock so I was looking at the 4.00x18" and noticed it was cheaper, had 6 plies, was the same width as the 4.6, has a 700lb load rating and is and its OD is in between the 4.5 and 4.6.

Is there any reason I should not go with the 4.00 for my DR350 rear replacement?

Thanks!
I ran a 4.00, I thought it was a bit too skinny and didn't have sufficient tread depth for the conditions out here in ID. I only got about 2500 miles out of it but that was with a lot of pavement in desert summer temps.

I'm not sure about the 4.6 vs 4.00 but I've heard that the 4.5 has a much deeper tread than the 4.00. With the shallower treads you may find the tire life somewhat shorter than you are accustomed to thereby negating any savings.

I won't run a 4.00 again but I probably won't run a 5.10 (too big and heavy) again either. I think the 4.5 is probably the best combo of size vs weight for the little DR.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:17 AM   #18087
LoopGaroo
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Range on Reserve

So I've been hitting reserve consistently at 85-88 miles. I'm wondering how many more miles I could get while running past reserve? I've never have to put more than 15 miles after switching over...
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:19 AM   #18088
jackanory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoopGaroo View Post
So I've been hitting reserve consistently at 85-88 miles. I'm wondering how many more miles I could get while running past reserve? I've never have to put more than 15 miles after switching over...
Fill up a couple MSR bottles for a "reserve reserve" and go for a ride
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:03 AM   #18089
Oldone
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Big thanks!

Lots of thanks for giving me the information that I was looking for on the DR350. I have two PC800 (Pacific Coasts) that I use for highway riding but am looking for something dual sport suitable. I like the TW200 except for the five-speed and the low highway speed. I just don't want to get run over if I have to get out on the highway for awhile! Mostly interested in riding some off-road trails though. Thanks again for your help.

Gary "Oldone"

Grampa’s Lake Superior Ride
Grampa’s National Monument Ride
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:06 AM   #18090
SloMo228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
Fill up a couple MSR bottles for a "reserve reserve" and go for a ride
This is what I do whenever I get a new bike. I want to know how much is really available, should I need it. I think I got somewhere around 120 miles out of the DR's stock tank before it went dry (including tipping it over to get all the gas out of the right side of the tank). I can get around 240 out of my Clarke tank if I tip it over after the reserve runs dry. I wish they made the Acerbis tank in black...
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