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Old 04-14-2009, 05:11 PM   #1801
scooterjunkie
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DR350's....get 'em while they're hot!

Is it me or is everybody buying DR350's lately?
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:17 PM   #1802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterjunkie
... I have the Clymer manual, and the picture and description of the float height measurment baffles me (measuring frome where to where???!). Does anyone have a better description of what point you measure from?
The Suzuki repair manual lists two different measurements for setting the float. The first is the same as is in the Clymer book, using the drop.

The other is the "fuel level" which they spec at 1.5mm (+/-.5mm). My 1990 DR350S would not start at all setting the float to the specified drop, so I tried the fuel level measurement. I used the drain tube as a sight glass to view the level. I also removed the drain screw and pluged the hole to keep pesky bubbles from forming in the tube.

It took a serious bend on the float tab to get the fuel level 1.5mm below the seam between the bowl and the carb, but the bike starts great.
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BR0 screwed with this post 04-14-2009 at 09:24 PM
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:26 PM   #1803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterjunkie
Is it me or is everybody buying DR350's lately?
I bought mine used back in 1994, but there appears to be a lot of people posting about buying them lately. And that's a good thing!
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:13 PM   #1804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR0
The Suzuki repair manual lists two different measurements for setting the float. The first is the same as is in the Clymer book, using the drop.

The other is the "fuel level" which they spec at 1.5mm (+/-.5mm). My 1990 DR350S would not start at all setting the float to the specified drop, so I tried the fuel level measurement. I used the drain tube as a sight glass to view the level. I also removed the drain screw and pluged the hole to keep pesky bubbles from forming in the tube.

It took a serious bend on the float level tab to get the level at 1.5mm below the carb housing, but the bike starts great.
Thanks! Thats the kind of photography I need! I assume that's 1.5mm below the top of the float bowl? (please excuse my rudimentary paint skills)
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:56 PM   #1805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR0
The Suzuki repair manual lists two different measurements for setting the float. The first is the same as is in the Clymer book, using the drop.

The other is the "fuel level" which they spec at 1.5mm (+/-.5mm). My 1990 DR350S would not start at all setting the float to the specified drop, so I tried the fuel level measurement. I used the drain tube as a sight glass to view the level. I also removed the drain screw and pluged the hole to keep pesky bubbles from forming in the tube.

It took a serious bend on the float level tab to get the level at 1.5mm below the carb housing, but the bike starts great.
I think that is exactly what was wrong with my 1990 DR250S before I gave up and took it to a mechanic. Suffered the same symptoms.

Thank you for the info!

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Old 04-14-2009, 09:20 PM   #1806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterjunkie
Thanks! Thats the kind of photography I need! I assume that's 1.5mm below the top of the float bowl? (please excuse my rudimentary paint skills)
That's what I did...if somebody really knows, please chime in. The Suzuki manual doesn't say how to do it, but they do list the spec.

How you hold the carb made a big difference in the level, so I mounted the carb for the final check.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:39 PM   #1807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BR0
That's what I did...if somebody really knows, please chime in. The Suzuki manual doesn't say how to do it, but they do list the spec.

How you hold the carb made a big difference in the level, so I mounted the carb for the final check.
Correct, I had the bowl off and empty and was trying to get the valve to close right when the middle (a guess) of the float was 1.5mm below the carb body.

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Old 04-15-2009, 07:40 PM   #1808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High-Side
I bought mine used back in 1994, but there appears to be a lot of people posting about buying them lately. And that's a good thing!

Well, another recent purchaser of a DR350 as of today! Just picked up a nice 1996 DR350SE from its second owner. He bought it 10yrs ago with 450 mi on per the title. Now has 2700. Last tag on it was 2005. He said he started it up a few times a year lately, but that was about it. Starts right up on choke, but bogs terrible at low throttle and won't run at idle without the choke. Once up on the main, runs great. Me thinks It needs the pilot jet cleaned out.

I had just sold a Yamaha TZ250 motor I had sitting around and had some money burning a hole in my pocket. From the prices around here, $1400 seemed like a decent price on it.

I usually rode an older CR125 or a CRF200R I built (CRF450 chassis with an XR200 engine), but neither was street legal. Went on a AMA Dual-Sport ride last fall up here in MI and rode my TLR200 Reflex. Loved the ride, but that old twin-shock trials bike wasn't the most comfortable after 80-90 miles.

Looked at a bunch of bikes and this old 350 looked like it would fit the bill very well for my purpose. Mostly off-road, like the single tracks up here, but want to be able to do more DS type riding. A couple of years shy of turning 60 y/o, wasn't looking for a motocross capable bike, just a good decent trail bike.

Currently have around 23-25 bikes (lost count), mostly Honda. This is the first Suzuki since several decades ago having an old 80cc Suzuki.

Looking forward to having the time to read up on this thread. Just brought it home tonight, so haven't had a chance to do much with it or check anything out on it. Do wish it had come with an owners manul.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:01 PM   #1809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieT
Well, another recent purchaser of a DR350 as of today! Just picked up a nice 1996 DR350SE from its second owner.
Congratulations on your new DR. They really are a good bike and with proper care, will run for a long time. It sounds like you will need to clean/rebuild your carburetor and ronayaers.com has all the parts you'll need. You can get a manual for your bike on eBay. Good Luck!
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:15 PM   #1810
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Originally Posted by High-Side
. It sounds like you will need to clean/rebuild your carburetor and ronayaers.com has all the parts you'll need. You can get a manual for your bike on eBay. Good Luck!
At least there is only one carb on this bike. The last few sets I rebuilt were off a GL1000 and a CB400F. Seems like it was 4x's as much work!!!



Ok stupid question #1. Fuel valve. Got it home and went to turn the gas off. Well, duh, no "off" position. Looking at the petcock, appears to be a vacuum operated model. Ok fine, but what the heck is the PRI setting??? I am guessing it might mean "prime"? Does that allow the fuel to flow for priming when there is no vacuum to operate the pump or what?
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:31 PM   #1811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieT
Ok stupid question #1. Fuel valve. Got it home and went to turn the gas off. Well, duh, no "off" position. Looking at the petcock, appears to be a vacuum operated model. Ok fine, but what the heck is the PRI setting??? I am guessing it might mean "prime"? Does that allow the fuel to flow for priming when there is no vacuum to operate the pump or what?
Yes, that's right. Use prime when first starting your bike when using the choke. Then after it starts you can switch it to run.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:51 PM   #1812
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Prime = fuel flows all the time, same as "on" for a normal petcock.
On = on when the petcock sees vacuum, otherwise off.

btw, there's no fuel pump, its just gravity feed.

You shouldn't need to use prime unless you've drained the float bowl, the amount of fuel in the the float bowl is enough to run for several minutes. The name prime is misleading, because it doesn't prime anything. It should be "on" and "automatic" but I guess they saved money on translators or something.

The bigger question is why you've still got the extremely unreliable stock petcock! Swap that out for something, anything else. When the diaphragm ruptures, it will dump fuel into the motor thought he vacuum line.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:34 AM   #1813
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Originally Posted by BikePilot
The bigger question is why you've still got the extremely unreliable stock petcock! Swap that out for something, anything else. When the diaphragm ruptures, it will dump fuel into the motor thought he vacuum line.
Why still the stock one? Well, probably becuase I have owned the bike for about all of 15 hours as of 0930 this am!

Number of things I need/want to do. First is getting the pilot circuit functioning. Left the carb soaking in Yamaha carb cleaner over night. Clean it up tonight.

WHich reminds me, read about some airbox mods and rejetting. If I got the carb apart for cleaning already, might be a good tiem to go ahead and do this. Does this airbox mod let it breath enough better that there is a notable change in seat-of-the-pants power?? Stock exhaust are typically quite restrictive. To get full benefit from opening up the intake side, any exhaust change recommendations??

Also looked at some of the aftermarket tanks, Clarke, IMS, etc., which also appear to come with petcocks..at least some of them.


It s always fun to get a new toy to play and tinker with, ain't it!!
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Old 04-16-2009, 12:16 PM   #1814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High-Side
Congratulations on your new DR. They really are a good bike and with proper care, will run for a long time. It sounds like you will need to clean/rebuild your carburetor and ronayaers.com has all the parts you'll need. You can get a manual for your bike on eBay. Good Luck!
did you mean http://www.ronayers.com/ ?
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:17 PM   #1815
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I've not ridden a bike back to back with stock vs modded airbox, but I rather doubt that there is much actual performance difference. You will get more noise, which will make the bike sound faster. Dito for the exhaust. I'm sure there is some power to be had, I just don't know how much and I've never seen any dyno numbers to prove anything. If you do go with aftermarket exhaust, the FMF Q is the way to go. It is still too loud imho, but its better than all the other aftermarket options and it looks to flow a lot better than stock.

Also note that if you plan to do long distance, dusty rides or cross really deep streams, retaining the stock airbox sorkle has its advantages.

A pumper carb will offer much more bang for your buck than exhaust imho. It really transforms the throttle response of the bike.

I belive that the acerbis tank is the only one that includes petcocks.

Dialing in the jetting is always worthwhile regardless of how modded the rest of the bike is. Generally there are considerable improvements in throttle response and often power to be had.

Currently on my 350 has stock exhaust, pumper carb, opened up airbox and 10.5:1 piston. It pulls really well from idle to the mid range, then imho goes flat just a bit early. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of the mildly tuned motor (mild cam, small valves, small intake and exhaust ports etc) or if the stock exhaust is holding me back. Jetting is stock needle, 40pilot and 140 main and that seems about right for my setup.

My 250 currently has an FMF Q because the stock muffler had some rust issues and the Q is the quietest aluminum silencer available. I did not notice any big improvement in power, but the 250 has the same stock exhaust of the 350 so I imagine that the stock system flows just fine for the smaller motor, not so sure the flow is idea for the 350 though - one of these days I'll take the stock silencer off the 350 and fit it to the 250 then put the FMF Q on the 350 and see what difference that makes.

Here's a video of my 350. The bike taking the video is a DR350 with an FMFQ, its a bit hard to tell, but most of the sound in the video is from the bike doing the filming with the Q.

http://www.4shared.com/file/27576981...town_clip.html
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