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Old 09-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #18136
DR350seKING
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: pittsburgh pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Why do you think it runs hot? Air cooled bikes tend to feel hot, but that is just the way they are. I have seen pictures of the header glow red from just idling.
my header pipe glows red from the motor to were the heat shield starts in a matter of minutes when it idles
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:15 PM   #18137
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
There are lots of things I like about the WR250 and a couple that I don't. One of those is that the stock FI on the WR250 is VERY hard to modulate at slow speeds. It seems it's either on or off - very "jerky". Carbed bikes have a much softer transition. It's hard to ride it like a trials bike. WR fans will say, well, you just need a power commander to tune that out of it. IMO, that shouldn't be necessary on such and expensive bike.
Yep. When I was looking into it, I found a couple of threads on here where guys spent a couple thousand $$$ and a lot of time trying to get them to run "RIGHT". It didn't seem like something I wanted to do. It should be better than that out of the box. FI isn't difficult to trouble shoot, but you have to work around the parameters of the ambient pressure, temp, timing, O2, fuel pressure, ECU, High pressure fuel pump, problems with over size tanks etc. And if that sucker screws up on you out on the trail, your walking.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:20 PM   #18138
tkent02
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
There are lots of things I like about the WR250 and a couple that I don't. One of those is that the stock FI on the WR250 is VERY hard to modulate at slow speeds. It seems it's either on or off - very "jerky".
There was something wrong with the one you rode. I have ridden a few of them, they worked fine. Very smooth throttle response.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:36 PM   #18139
mwilliamshs
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really?

I've ridden 4 wr250r's. 2 stock bikes that were notchy just above idle. Poor but liveable throttle response. 2 modified bikes, both with aftermarket EFI programmers. Both were much smoother in this range than either stock bike but neither was much more powerful till above midrange. The transition of idle to usable torque went from head-bobbing to nary a nod. A person who has only ridden a stock wr250r and then rides a tuned one will probably be spending some $ in short order. The smoothness makes the bike MUCH more manageable on rough/steep terrain. MUCH.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:02 PM   #18140
MrPulldown
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Hi Guys,

I am selling no load LED flash relays and diode kits in the vendors section.

Check it out
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920826
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:29 PM   #18141
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilliamshs View Post
I've ridden 4 wr250r's. 2 stock bikes that were notchy just above idle. Poor but liveable throttle response. 2 modified bikes, both with aftermarket EFI programmers. Both were much smoother in this range than either stock bike but neither was much more powerful till above midrange. The transition of idle to usable torque went from head-bobbing to nary a nod. A person who has only ridden a stock wr250r and then rides a tuned one will probably be spending some $ in short order. The smoothness makes the bike MUCH more manageable on rough/steep terrain. MUCH.
Well, that's the point isn't it. Off idle transition on the stock bike is jerky. If you ride it like a motocross bike you'd never notice. If you ride it slow in rocks and roots (i.e. eastern mountains), it's hard to manage. I rode the same bike after installation of a power commander or the like plus an aftermarket pipe. Much better... for only $800 or $900!!!

OTOH, an old-school KLX250 was far easier to make "perfect" for my kind of riding with only minor carb tuning. Plus, if you're so inclined, you can bump the Kaw to 300cc with OEM KLX300 parts.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:56 PM   #18142
FireDog45
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Location: Central, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Just saw a link to this article about the DR350 and thought I'd pass it along. May have been posted here last year, but I'm too lazy to look for it and someone else may have missed it anyway!

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/290/14...uki-DR350.aspx
Thanks for that! I chuckled when the article mentioned the grin factor
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:41 PM   #18143
Thanantos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
Thanks for that! I chuckled when the article mentioned the grin factor
Yep, nice article.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:54 PM   #18144
tkent02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanantos View Post
Yep, nice article.
Yeah, right about the grins, but but they are wrong about the gas mileage.

Mine is always better than that.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:58 PM   #18145
DR350seKING
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anyone around pittsburgh need a DR

seen this for sale http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/4076199289.html
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:02 AM   #18146
tkent02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakser View Post
pulled my plug tonight because my engine is running hot
thing is completely black.

Like the other guy said, that looks too rich already. Completely black is completely rich. What makes you think it's running too hot?

For the other guy, the spark plug is supposed to look dry unless the engine is flooded or burning oil.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:44 AM   #18147
veriest1
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Location: Central Tejas
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I think I'm going to redo my brake light/license plate setup. Do the DR350 dirt models have the same tail light lense as a DR650?

And does anyone have one they want to get rid of?

Sent from my HTC using magic.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:37 AM   #18148
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 3,366
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakser View Post
it has always run hot but the bike is new to me
Street model
not sure about my mpg
I haven't had to use the choke in the hot wether this summer
oil level normal but ill double check
street riding only, I live in brooklyn.


thanks for the help
recording the mpg is a must imo, its a good indicator of the running condition & indicator when service/ repair is necessary.

oil level should be checked very often. check it after riding when hot & add if needed to near top level.

if your mpg is between 55-70 for street (non-hwy) riding, its in the normal range.

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Old 09-19-2013, 05:53 AM   #18149
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
Yeah, right about the grins, but but they are wrong about the gas mileage.

Mine is always better than that.
The author is British. British Gallons are larger than US gallons (1.20095 UK gallons = 1 US gallon). I am *assuming* he is reporting UK MPG rather than US MPG. His 45 MPG in the UK is much closer to 37.5 MPG in the USA.

I really can't tell from the photos which carburetor is installed. Suffice to say, it is possible to jet any DR350 carburetor so rich that 37.5 MPG (and lower) MPG is achievable with little effort.

Mine does much, much, much better using the CV carb and 100% stock jetting.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:28 AM   #18150
yourdrunkdad
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Shoot, wrong thread. Sorry guys. But here is a plug reading chart since you guys are talking about it. Notice the the one that says best.

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yourdrunkdad screwed with this post 09-19-2013 at 06:41 AM
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