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Old 10-17-2013, 05:07 PM   #18766
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_flame221 View Post
what wire color should i look for if i want to conect some hot grip and want them off when the ignition key is off

Red.

On my SE there is a red keyed-on hot wire under the headlight cowl. It is not used and has a spade connector crimped to it. Assumed it is for a Euro only assessory. There is also a un-used ground wire under there.

Never had an issue with the grips drawing too many watts.

Put an in-line fuse just to be safe.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:10 PM   #18767
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simbaboy View Post
Probably install it tomorrow.
Any hints/advice before I get started? Where do I get the T-connector?
Thanks
Simba

Excited about getting this bike well sorted before next ridng season.
Just run the left side and forget about the right and the "T".

Acerbis's "T" is plastic. So are all the ones at Lowes and Home Depot. Seem to do the job. Do not know why they don't stock brass ones. I found a brass one at my Local Napa Auto.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:35 PM   #18768
FireDog45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Just run the left side and forget about the right and the "T".

Acerbis's "T" is plastic. So are all the ones at Lowes and Home Depot. Seem to do the job. Do not know why they don't stock brass ones. I found a brass one at my Local Napa Auto.
What's the fun in that? Why should Simba get away with not experiencing the frustration of figuring out how to route the right side? It's a good way to kill a few hours
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:39 PM   #18769
veriest1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
What's the fun in that? Why should Simba get away with not experiencing the frustration of figuring out how to route the right side? It's a good way to kill a few hours
I've started referring to the right side petcock as the "gas pump." It's great for loaning friends fuel. Otherwise I've come to the same conclusion - it's pretty much worthless.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:41 PM   #18770
simbaboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
What's the fun in that? Why should Simba get away with not experiencing the frustration of figuring out how to route the right side? It's a good way to kill a few hours
With friends like this who need enemies?
If its mostly worthless I will just do the Left side petcock.
I have to look at the plastic tank and see if I even need to install the petcock at all on that side. I will install a fuel filter unless you think I shouldn't. I am sure the Acerbis does not have an in tank fuel screen.
Thanks
Simba
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #18771
2bold2getold
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If you run the right side hose behind the float bowl and below the intake boot, you'll get most of it. I'm getting 60+ mpg so I haven't ever needed to run it dry.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104

2bold2getold screwed with this post 10-17-2013 at 07:48 PM
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:16 PM   #18772
veriest1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you run the right side hose behind the float bowl and below the intake boot, you'll get most of it. I'm getting 60+ mpg so I haven't ever needed to run it dry.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104
I've heard of that and thought about trying it. Glad to hear it's working for you.

Are you going to be on the DR or the TA at the rally?
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:36 PM   #18773
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veriest1 View Post
I've heard of that and thought about trying it. Glad to hear it's working for you.

Are you going to be on the DR or the TA at the rally?
Rode the DR last year. This year the TA. Sorry for the hijack.

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Old 10-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #18774
2bold2getold
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Speaking of the Transalp, the Africa Twin tank on it has a right and left petcock that is much lower than the carbs, similar to the DR with the Acerbis tank. The problem is solved by adding a vacume operated fuel pump and routing the fuel line on the right side forward and in front of the motor and across to left side. The left side is routed forward to meet the right side hose at a "T" fitting and then back to the fuel pump. If you really want to get every drop out of the tank, this will work.

Left side. The quick disconnect goes to the fuel pump.



Fuel pump. Hose going forward goes to quick disconnect.



BTW the quick disconnects leaked. I removed them.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 10-17-2013 at 09:09 PM
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:05 PM   #18775
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veriest1 View Post
I've started referring to the right side petcock as the "gas pump." It's great for loaning friends fuel. Otherwise I've come to the same conclusion - it's pretty much worthless.
That is halariouse, cause I have done the same. I have autcually used it more times to fill my MSR bottle for my stove.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you run the right side hose behind the float bowl and below the intake boot, you'll get most of it. I'm getting 60+ mpg so I haven't ever needed to run it dry.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104

I don't know cause I have mine routed exactly like yours and still feel the right side is crap.

The acerbis petcock does have a screen. From what I have read those sintered brass filters are as course as those screens. I do kind of think that the filters mess with the flow of gas. It shouldn't from a available "head" point of view. But it is basiclly an expansion chamber which will slow the velocity and then need to build pressure to flow the second half o the tube; which is doesn't do well.

Btw I run those little filters. Maybe that is why I think the right side is terrible but not useless.

MrPulldown screwed with this post 10-18-2013 at 02:00 AM
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:12 AM   #18776
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Red.

On my SE there is a red keyed-on hot wire under the headlight cowl. It is not used and has a spade connector crimped to it. Assumed it is for a Euro only assessory. There is also a un-used ground wire under there.

Never had an issue with the grips drawing too many watts.

Put an in-line fuse just to be safe.
Mr. P - are you sure that Red one is switched? According to my wiring diagram (and poking around on my 95 SE), Orange is used throughout the bike as "key on power", and red is used for "direct to battery". On my bike anyway, red only goes from the battery to the starter, the regulator and to the ignition switch - no where else. But mine is a Canadian bike so maybe they deleted the circuit you found.

To the original question - best way to check is with a meter anyway - make sure no voltage when key off, and that there is voltage at key on, wherever you hook it up.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:36 AM   #18777
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC909 View Post
One more thing...About the only thing besides the floats I have yet to replace (and yes I set them) is the rubber diaphragm. Has anyone had issues with their diaphragm or had to replace it? I have rebuilt a few vintage bikes that had very very slight tears in the diaphragm which caused them to run like garbage. Mine has no visible tears or holes but I am just curious if anyone has had any problem with theirs?
Yes, I had problem with a diaphragm on my CV carb. No tears, but it seemed to have shrunk with time and did not sit on the carb body properly. I could try to get it in there just right and fit the lid (with effort), but even then it would not run correctly. Once I put in a new diaphragm, all was right with the world.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:40 AM   #18778
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simbaboy View Post
Anybody have side covers/fenders that would fit my 97 Dr350SE? I would like to mess around with the paint scheme and save the stock tank/side covers and fenders.
The side covers I had are sold, but I've got a rear fender (and a UFO front fender I need to put on the for sale page) that I am selling for little money. Both are far from new and shiny.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:59 AM   #18779
AC909
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Thanks for the carb trouble shooting help. After working on the carb for about five hours with every possible combination of jet and air/fuel adjustment screw position I have came to a happy place where I am ready to do a test ride. It was past midnight when I stopped working on it last night so I was not able to squeeze a ride in. I will give it a run tonight and see how everything is dialed in. Oh and by the way, if I ever say an extended fuel adjustment screw is not worth the money please kick me in the teeth. I would have gave about $100 for one last night.
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A CT175 & XR250R Do A Few States of the TAT
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827855
A CT175 & DR350 Do a Few More States of the TAT
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1010764
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:35 AM   #18780
original mcguiver
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Pissed inline fuel filters

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
That is halariouse, cause I have done the same. I have autcually used it more times to fill my MSR bottle for my stove.



The acerbis petcock does have a screen. From what I have read those sintered brass filters are as course as those screens. I do kind of think that the filters mess with the flow of gas. It shouldn't from a available "head" point of view. But it is basiclly an expansion chamber which will slow the velocity and then need to build pressure to flow the second half o the tube; which is doesn't do well.

Btw I run those little filters. Maybe that is why I think the right side is terrible but not useless.
MrPulldown, I agree that the inline fuel filters can cause problems, especially at higher altitudes. I feel it is because the extra volume lets the alcohol/gas blend vaporize easier (especially at our higher altitudes). I have had several of my bikes vapor lock on me in warm weather and stop and go traffic jams.(never fun trying to push a fully loaded bike out of traffic on a 100 deg.day with riding gear on) Removing the inline filters have cured this on all 3 of my bikes.
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