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Old 10-18-2013, 11:19 AM   #18781
boboneleg
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Lower shock mount bearing

I am attempting to replace the lower shock mount bearing on my '98 SEW as it is worn but I'm struggling to remove the 'clips' that secure it. I have tried my circlip pliers but the ends snapped off and also tried a punch but it was too large and my picks are not man enough for the job.

Any ideas how to get them out



These are the new ones in case you wondered what they looked like.....

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Old 10-18-2013, 11:32 AM   #18782
rubberband
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I used a simple pick tool bent at a 90 degrees.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:43 AM   #18783
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Mr. P - are you sure that Red one is switched? According to my wiring diagram (and poking around on my 95 SE), Orange is used throughout the bike as "key on power", and red is used for "direct to battery". On my bike anyway, red only goes from the battery to the starter, the regulator and to the ignition switch - no where else. But mine is a Canadian bike so maybe they deleted the circuit you found.

To the original question - best way to check is with a meter anyway - make sure no voltage when key off, and that there is voltage at key on, wherever you hook it up.
Don't know man. On an "Merican" DR350, pull the cowl and there is a random red or faded red (could be orange) wire with a spade connector just hanging lose. I thought it was something that I might have bumped off. It doesn't show up in the wiring diagram. It is key-on and I use it for my grip heaters. It is pretty obvious if you are looking back there.

I posted a picture of it once. Tried to find that old post with no luck.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:40 PM   #18784
Askor200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boboneleg View Post
I am attempting to replace the lower shock mount bearing on my '98 SEW as it is worn but I'm struggling to remove the 'clips' that secure it. I have tried my circlip pliers but the ends snapped off and also tried a punch but it was too large and my picks are not man enough for the job.

Any ideas how to get them out
I used 2 small flat head screwdrivers by pushing them in one after the other behind one of the ends of the clip, that broke it loose. Mine was really stuck too!
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:49 PM   #18785
Dark_flame221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Don't know man. On an "Merican" DR350, pull the cowl and there is a random red or faded red (could be orange) wire with a spade connector just hanging lose. I thought it was something that I might have bumped off. It doesn't show up in the wiring diagram. It is key-on and I use it for my grip heaters. It is pretty obvious if you are looking back there.

I posted a picture of it once. Tried to find that old post with no luck.


I've taked a look at my dr350sex 1998 before posting my question, mine had an available conector hooked to a Brown wire and black stripped white wire... i suppose the B/W wire is the ground corect ?

i should really get myself a voltmeter....
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #18786
Askor200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_flame221 View Post
i suppose the B/W wire is the ground corect ?
Correct

Try connecting a light bulb between the wires, that will let you know if there's 12v between them
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #18787
dbarale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Askor200 View Post
I used 2 small flat head screwdrivers by pushing them in one after the other behind one of the ends of the clip, that broke it loose. Mine was really stuck too!
This ^^

But please, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:27 PM   #18788
2bold2getold
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Acerbis tank fuel line mod

This is something I've been wanting to try for a while, but was to chicken. I think someone else mentioned it a few hundred pages back.

So for all of you guys who want to get the last few ounces of fuel from your Acerbis tank, this might work. The plan is to get the carb fuel intake tube rotated down instead of up. This should put the point the gas enters the carb at the lowest possible level. I got up the nerve and gave it a twist. It was reluctant at first, then a pop and it turned very nicely. It feels pretty tight and I don't expect any leakage. If it heats up and expands a little, and leaks I'll fix it. Just need to keep an eye on it. If you are not comfortable doing this kind of stuff, DON'T DO IT. As always, any changes you decide to make to your bike is your responsibility.





And here's how I did it.

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Old 10-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #18789
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Does this really work. Seems like your fuel will have to run "uphill" now.

I think the real true point of fuel entry to the carb is at the float bowl valve.

Tell me how this works. Interesting never the less.
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:42 PM   #18790
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_flame221 View Post
I've taken a look at my dr350sex 1998 before posting my question, mine had an available connector hooked to a Brown wire and black stripped white wire... i suppose the B/W wire is the ground correct ?

i should really get myself a voltmeter....
Correct, and the Brown is key'ed power for all of the lights (but it is also live in the Park position where it powers the taillight only). Wiring diagram actually shows that connector, probably for a pilot light on the dash or in the headlight shell in some markets.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:25 PM   #18791
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Does this really work. Seems like your fuel will have to run "uphill" now.

I think the real true point of fuel entry to the carb is at the float bowl valve.

Tell me how this works. Interesting never the less.
Oh my. It's probably easier for you to prove to your self (outside) that it works than for me to try to explain it. Turn off the gas and unhook the hose form your carb. Then turn the gas back on and raise the end of the hose up till it stops. That will be the level of the gas in the tank. It doesn't matter if you have a loop (or a dozen loops) in the hose or not as long as the hose is below the level of gas in the tank.. As long as the fuel level in the tank is above the highest point it has to rise via the hose to get to the carb gas will flow. When the fuel in the tank level approaches the level of the petcock (lowest point in the tank) and the hose routing at any point is above the level of the petcock, flow will stop. Because flow depends on pressure (sometimes called head pressure) which is only dependent on height (not volume) of the fluid in the system. If the height of the fluid in the delivery hose gets as high as the fluid in the tank flow stops.... Crap...not sure that makes any sense.
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:23 PM   #18792
FireDog45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Oh my. It's probably easier for you to prove to your self (outside) that it works than for me to try to explain it. Turn off the gas and unhook the hose form your carb. Then turn the gas back on and raise the end of the hose up till it stops. That will be the level of the gas in the tank. It doesn't matter if you have a loop (or a dozen loops) in the hose or not as long as the hose is below the level of gas in the tank.. As long as the fuel level in the tank is above the highest point it has to rise via the hose to get to the carb gas will flow. When the fuel in the tank level approaches the level of the petcock (lowest point in the tank) and the hose routing at any point is above the level of the petcock, flow will stop. Because flow depends on pressure (sometimes called head pressure) which is only dependent on height (not volume) of the fluid in the system. If the height of the fluid in the delivery hose gets as high as the fluid in the tank flow stops.... Crap...not sure that makes any sense.
Makes perfect sense
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:37 PM   #18793
Anonawesome
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Ooh! Ballsy! Could put some solder around the rim if it leaks.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:01 PM   #18794
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Ooh! Ballsy! Could put some solder around the rim if it leaks.
It was common for the brass gas tube on the old VW carbs to come loose. Sometimes with catastrophic results. The carb gas hose sat right on top of the distributor. But the fix was easy. Just take a large knife and whack the tube all around to create a series of burs and reinstall ( with hammer) with red Loctite. Works with valve guides that are a little too loose also, or any pressed in sleeve. If it ever gets loose enough to leak, I'll pull it out and coat it with Loctite or JB Weld and tap it back in.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:04 PM   #18795
Anonawesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
It was common for the brass gas tube on the old VW carbs to come loose. Sometimes with catastrophic results. The carb gas hose sat right on top of the distributor. But the fix was easy. Just take a large knife and whack the tube all around to create a series of burs and reinstall ( with hammer) with red Loctite. Works with valve guides that are a little too loose also, or any pressed in sleeve. If it ever gets loose enough to leak, I'll pull it out and coat it with Loctite or JB Weld and tap it back in.
No thanks.
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