DR350 Thread - Page 152

muddyrabbit · 06-29-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bronco638

I'm going to guess this is a DR350S or SE with the CV carb. If so, you need to "t-vent" the carb vent line. If you look closely, the vent line from the carb runs up and into the frame where the shock is attached. When you drop the bike, that vent line becomes "clogged" with gas (since it's in a U shape). If you cut that vent line and install a plastic T (run the new vent "leg" towards the ground), you'll break the vacuum holding the gas in the line. This will allow the gas to drain and the carb to breathe. The engine should start much more easily now.

Sounds simple enough, I'll see If I can go phuk it up.

Bronco638 · 06-29-2009, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddyrabbit

Sounds simple enough, I'll see If I can go phuk it up.

I ran my "drain" leg right down the frame and terminated it just behind the rear brake master cylinder. Use zip ties to hold it in place (but don't crush the tubing). Take extra care near the exhaust pipe so it doesn't melt.

RandyM · 06-29-2009, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddyrabbit

So in the process of learning to ride, bikes will be dropped, I'm sure we're all aware. Every time Lil'B.P.O. drops her DR (which is getting less and less often) it does not want to restart due to being flooded. Standard crank it and hold the throttle open seems to work 90% of the time. Even then it seems to run bad when it restarts. Surging, you have to play with the throttle kind of thing. If we turn the petcock off (was replaced with the Raptor petcock) and let it run most of the fuel out of the line and carb and turn the petcock back on it runs fine. Is this normal or something else?

Sounds normal. My '99 with CV carb floods when I drop it. I just did the T Vent mod but have not dropped it since.

SloSolo2 · 06-29-2009, 04:43 PM

I've got a problem with my bike that just popped up today. Riding home this afternoon I had to hit the reserve and then it didn't want to start. I thought since I ran the carb dry it would take some time to get full flow. I needed to run an errand about an hour after I got home and it was hard to start again?!. While I was out I went to the gas station and tanked up and it still didn't want to start.

Typically this bike starts on the first push of the button no throttle required but now I have to crack the throttle, then it will start. It's spinning fine so it's not the battery. I have already replaced the petcock with the raptor piece. I added seafoam to the last tank of fuel, in a pretty heavy mix to clean the carb. I still haven't taken the carb apart because I don't know what I'm doing in that arena. The problem sounds similar to muddyrabbit's issue but I haven't dropped the bike....yet. Any ideas about a fix?

thanks,
Jamie

ps my wife and kids say I smell like exhaust when I get off the bike. Too rich? There is a little blackness on the fender near the pipe.

RandyM · 06-29-2009, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SloSolo2

I've got a problem with my bike that just popped up today. Riding home this afternoon I had to hit the reserve and then it didn't want to start.

I had a problem with mine stalling the other day when I hit reserve. My problem was due to a new fuel line being too long and it loops up above the petcock and traps air bubbles inside.

SloSolo2 · 06-29-2009, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RandyM

I had a problem with mine stalling the other day when I hit reserve. My problem was due to a new fuel line being too long and it loops up above the petcock and traps air bubbles inside.

Thanks, I'll check this. I just replaced the lines when I did the petcock.
Jamie

z@ch · 06-30-2009, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z@ch

The wheels and carb are tentatively spoken for.
edit: front wheel and 1 rear wheel sold. I still have another cush-drive rear wheel available.
edit2: Tank, carb and throttle cables are sold.
edit3: Side cover and right side mirror sold

It does have a street title so the frame may have some value to somebody.

update: 2nd rear wheel is tentatively sold. Rear turn signals not available. Both mirrors and the clutch perch spoken for.

What's left? 2 front brake levers, rear fender, front and rear suspension, front and rear calipers/lines/master cylinders, frame, engine components, 14T sprocket with 1500 miles, o-ring chain with 1500 miles and 2 master links (don't ask) and the seat.

muddyrabbit · 06-30-2009, 08:48 AM

What about the tank?

z@ch · 06-30-2009, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddyrabbit

What about the tank?

you're too late, sorry.

Intrigue_262000 · 06-30-2009, 07:56 PM

Well, I got a big box of joy from rocky mountain today! I mounted a set of pro taper bars after work only to find that I needed to get smaller inserts for my hand guards due the the wall thickness of the new bars.the inserts won't be here till thursday, so tomorrow I'm mounting a new dunlop 606 on the rear and putting new whoa gears on(brake pads). I also removed the factory decals from the side panels.I'll post picks when its all together again.

yondering · 07-01-2009, 11:12 AM

If you have valve noise that won't go away with adjustment, check your rocker arms!

I posted a question a while back in this thread about some top end noise in my motor, must have been about 50 pages ago. Anyway, the general concensus was "don't worry about it", so I kept riding it for a while, but it kept bothering me so I pulled off the valve cover the other day, and found this:

Anybody else here had this problem?

The cam lobe wore a deep gouge into the exhaust side rocker arm. No wonder it sounded like a loud valve tap. It's worth noting that I've adjusted and re-checked the valves several times, and they were all within spec. There is no way I could tell the rocker arm was bad without pulling off the valve cover (which was pretty easy to do btw.)

For some reason, the intake rocker arm has an oil hole that squirts oil on the cam lobe; the exhaust side doesn't. Evidently the exhaust side is just splash lubed; which wasn't good enough for this particular rocker arm.

The cam lobe has some streaking, but surprisingly that's about it. I may just touch up the surface with some 600 grit sandpaper. The "right" thing to do is probably to replace the cam, but for $130 for the stock cam, I probably won't.

Are there any performance cams still available for these motors, and are they any good?

Bob Onit · 07-01-2009, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z@ch

What's left? 2 front brake levers, rear fender, front and rear suspension, front and rear calipers/lines/master cylinders, frame, engine components, 14T sprocket with 1500 miles, o-ring chain with 1500 miles and 2 master links (don't ask) and the seat.

Z@ch, I sent you a PM about the seat and a couple of other small parts.

z@ch · 07-01-2009, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Onit

Z@ch, I sent you a PM about the seat and a couple of other small parts.

you did?

Bob Onit · 07-01-2009, 11:48 AM

Got your reply Z@ch, I think I'll pass on the seat.
Sorry to hear of your engine failure... the DR's really are great bikes.
Thanks very much for the quick reply

Spook 013 · 07-01-2009, 11:50 AM

Does anyone know if the Maier rear fender that Keintech sells will work fine with the rear subframe? I don't mind if the subframe is sticking out or anything, just as long as everything bolts up.

Also, has anyone ever bought the DR350 rack from Precision Motorcycle Racks (here)? If so, I have an installation question:

The rack has 3 mounting points. There are 2 points that share mounts with the rear grab rail, which makes perfect sense. Then, there's another mount underneath the rack that doesn't line up with anything. Do I just drill a hole through the fender and mount it to the plastic? That doesn't seem very secure or sturdy to me...?

06-29-2009, 04:43 PM	#2269
SloSolo2 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2006 Location: Fort Mill, SC Oddometer: 350	More starting problems I've got a problem with my bike that just popped up today. Riding home this afternoon I had to hit the reserve and then it didn't want to start. I thought since I ran the carb dry it would take some time to get full flow. I needed to run an errand about an hour after I got home and it was hard to start again?!. While I was out I went to the gas station and tanked up and it still didn't want to start. Typically this bike starts on the first push of the button no throttle required but now I have to crack the throttle, then it will start. It's spinning fine so it's not the battery. I have already replaced the petcock with the raptor piece. I added seafoam to the last tank of fuel, in a pretty heavy mix to clean the carb. I still haven't taken the carb apart because I don't know what I'm doing in that arena. The problem sounds similar to muddyrabbit's issue but I haven't dropped the bike....yet. Any ideas about a fix? thanks, Jamie ps my wife and kids say I smell like exhaust when I get off the bike. Too rich? There is a little blackness on the fender near the pipe.

06-30-2009, 08:48 AM	#2273
muddyrabbit Lost Boy Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Fugawee Land. Oddometer: 2,961	What about the tank? __________________ Geauga Power Sports By riders, for riders. Ohio Motorized Trails Association Are you a member? OMTA on Facebook Baja info thread.

07-01-2009, 11:12 AM	#2276
yondering Beastly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2009 Location: NW Wa. state Oddometer: 1,072	Rocker arm damage If you have valve noise that won't go away with adjustment, check your rocker arms! I posted a question a while back in this thread about some top end noise in my motor, must have been about 50 pages ago. Anyway, the general concensus was "don't worry about it", so I kept riding it for a while, but it kept bothering me so I pulled off the valve cover the other day, and found this: Anybody else here had this problem? The cam lobe wore a deep gouge into the exhaust side rocker arm. No wonder it sounded like a loud valve tap. It's worth noting that I've adjusted and re-checked the valves several times, and they were all within spec. There is no way I could tell the rocker arm was bad without pulling off the valve cover (which was pretty easy to do btw.) For some reason, the intake rocker arm has an oil hole that squirts oil on the cam lobe; the exhaust side doesn't. Evidently the exhaust side is just splash lubed; which wasn't good enough for this particular rocker arm. The cam lobe has some streaking, but surprisingly that's about it. I may just touch up the surface with some 600 grit sandpaper. The "right" thing to do is probably to replace the cam, but for $130 for the stock cam, I probably won't. Are there any performance cams still available for these motors, and are they any good?

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

06-30-2009, 07:56 PM	#2275
Intrigue_262000 Did you see that wheelie? Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Central Pennsylvania Oddometer: 942	Well, I got a big box of joy from rocky mountain today! I mounted a set of pro taper bars after work only to find that I needed to get smaller inserts for my hand guards due the the wall thickness of the new bars.the inserts won't be here till thursday, so tomorrow I'm mounting a new dunlop 606 on the rear and putting new whoa gears on(brake pads). I also removed the factory decals from the side panels.I'll post picks when its all together again.

07-01-2009, 11:48 AM	#2279
Bob Onit Rocket Surgeon Joined: Jul 2008 Location: Population 174 Oddometer: 1,519	Got your reply Z@ch, I think I'll pass on the seat. Sorry to hear of your engine failure... the DR's really are great bikes. Thanks very much for the quick reply

07-01-2009, 11:50 AM	#2280
Spook 013 f.k.a. j0hn0tt0 Joined: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Oddometer: 330	Does anyone know if the Maier rear fender that Keintech sells will work fine with the rear subframe? I don't mind if the subframe is sticking out or anything, just as long as everything bolts up. Also, has anyone ever bought the DR350 rack from Precision Motorcycle Racks (here)? If so, I have an installation question: The rack has 3 mounting points. There are 2 points that share mounts with the rear grab rail, which makes perfect sense. Then, there's another mount underneath the rack that doesn't line up with anything. Do I just drill a hole through the fender and mount it to the plastic? That doesn't seem very secure or sturdy to me...?