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Old 07-03-2009, 04:49 PM   #2296
Intrigue_262000
Did you see that wheelie?
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 1,060
A few pics of my DR on the ride today



One of the bridge crossings....
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:57 PM   #2297
Intrigue_262000
Did you see that wheelie?
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 1,060
I put the Pro Taper bars on, the dunlop D606, and a 13 tooth front sprocket and tried it out today. That tire is awesome to say the least! And I really appreciate the 13 tooth sprocket in the tight stuff. I did 110 miles today, 70 of which was tight rocky terrain. I had a blast!
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:28 PM   #2298
Skippii
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Richmond, Va
Oddometer: 6,492
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVMango
I already have a first question(s).

My 93 DR350S has (had) a key obviously, but it also has a big red on/off push button switch
That is normal.

The Capacitor, not so much.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:13 PM   #2299
Moto Cacher
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Location: Western Oregon
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94 DR350S and am having intermittent electrical problems

I recently bought a 94 DR350S and am having intermittent electrical problems that have left me stranded in the boonies 2 times. Iím not sure what the previous owner has done to the bike but hereís what is happening and what Iíve been able to determine so far. Problem #1 the bike would cut out and die while riding, seemed like the ignition. Solution: I checked the coil and removed the kick stand safety switch and crimped the wires together at the connector. Problem seemed to be solved. Problem #2 when I start the bike in neutral and shift into gear with clutch still engaged it dies. Not always but most of the time. I suspect that the kick stand / ignition interlock relay is bad or a bad connection. Also worth noting the clutch switch does not work, it is stuck in the closed position so the bike will start OK. Iíve looked at the wring diagrams in my service manual and donít see how bypassing the kick stand switch should cause this problem. Iím thinking that the relay circuit should be removed but am concerned that doing so will cause problems to another component. I really need some advice from an experienced DR350 owner as how to permanently and reliably fix this issue.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:51 PM   #2300
muddyrabbit
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Fugawee Land.
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Might want to change the font color. Some folks on here are to old to try reading black on grey.
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:33 PM   #2301
EvilGenius
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Oddometer: 20,316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moto Cacher
I recently bought a 94 DR350S and am having intermittent electrical problems that have left me stranded in the boonies 2 times. I’m not sure what the previous owner has done to the bike but here’s what is happening and what I’ve been able to determine so far. Problem #1 the bike would cut out and die while riding, seemed like the ignition. Solution: I checked the coil and removed the kick stand safety switch and crimped the wires together at the connector. Problem seemed to be solved. Problem #2 when I start the bike in neutral and shift into gear with clutch still engaged it dies. Not always but most of the time. I suspect that the kick stand / ignition interlock relay is bad or a bad connection. Also worth noting the clutch switch does not work, it is stuck in the closed position so the bike will start OK. I’ve looked at the wring diagrams in my service manual and don’t see how bypassing the kick stand switch should cause this problem. I’m thinking that the relay circuit should be removed but am concerned that doing so will cause problems to another component. I really need some advice from an experienced DR350 owner as how to permanently and reliably fix this issue.


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Old 07-07-2009, 09:37 PM   #2302
bforbes
Do It!
 
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Joined: May 2009
Location: SFV, CA.
Oddometer: 35
Its not the prettiest thing to look at, but it really helps on the freeway at 75mph. It came off my buddies KLR. He just upgraded his windscreen, so i took this one and cut it down a bit.





i made the braces from a stabilizer bar. cut it in half, drilled a couple holes, and tapped some threads.

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Old 07-08-2009, 10:49 AM   #2303
Codger
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Joined: Jun 2009
Oddometer: 43
WTB tank rear rack

anyone have either a lg tank and /or a rear rack to work on my 98 SUZ DRT-350?

Also interested in current mfr's of rear racks

Love my Giant Loop Bag, but want add'l storage behind it.

codger
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:15 AM   #2304
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codger
anyone have either a lg tank and /or a rear rack to work on my 98 SUZ DRT-350?

Also interested in current mfr's of rear racks

Love my Giant Loop Bag, but want add'l storage behind it.

codger
Turbo City makes rear racks for DRs. I have one and it's nicely made and the owner (Tom) is an inmate. He responds quickly to emails and has always been helpful.

As for larger tanks, you can go with IMS, Clarke or Acerbis depending on your budget. Acerbis makes a 4.25 gallon tank with dual fuel valves. Clarke and IMS make slightly smaller ones @ 3.5 gallons but only have one fuel valve. So, there's always some fuel "trapped" on the right side of the tank. I added another fuel valve to the right side of my IMS and solved that problem. It sounds like you have a dirt (not street legal) version DR. If so, the bigger tanks will fit without issue. I have a '99 SE and am still using the CV carb. The bigger tanks are made to work with the 'dirt version' DR (with the 'pumper' carb - TM33SS) . So, you have to do a little work to get the bigger tank to fit around the CV cables. It's not difficult but just involves properly "dressing" all of the cables and wiring.

HTH, Dave.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:24 PM   #2305
PrairieRider
Gearing down for Hell
 
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: As near Hell as I can get
Oddometer: 3,879
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
Turbo City makes rear racks for DRs. I have one and it's nicely made and the owner (Tom) is an inmate. He responds quickly to emails and has always been helpful.

As for larger tanks, you can go with IMS, Clarke or Acerbis depending on your budget. Acerbis makes a 4.25 gallon tank with dual fuel valves. Clarke and IMS make slightly smaller ones @ 3.5 gallons but only have one fuel valve. So, there's always some fuel "trapped" on the right side of the tank. I added another fuel valve to the right side of my IMS and solved that problem. It sounds like you have a dirt (not street legal) version DR. If so, the bigger tanks will fit without issue. I have a '99 SE and am still using the CV carb. The bigger tanks are made to work with the 'dirt version' DR (with the 'pumper' carb - TM33SS) . So, you have to do a little work to get the bigger tank to fit around the CV cables. It's not difficult but just involves properly "dressing" all of the cables and wiring.

HTH, Dave.
I have a large Clarke tank that does not fit my '98 dirt model DR. It fits nicely on my '99 SE. The Acerbis tank fits both the SE and dirt models because it has a different mount. I don't know about IMS or whether or not Clarke makes one that fits the dirt model. YMMV
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:29 PM   #2306
snare
sittin and breathin
 
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Joined: May 2007
Location: In Pisgah
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Yeah, my Acerbis tank fits my 94 SE just fine.
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Old 07-09-2009, 06:18 AM   #2307
mudmantra
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Humboldt
Oddometer: 328
thought on no ignition key and spark

my 92DR350 has no key and someone modified the wires to kind of work. The key switch and kill button connect the black/yellow wire to black/white wire to stop the spark. with the key to run.. it opens the black/yellow and black /white wires, and connects the wires for the lights, on a kick start DR350s. so a kickstart DR well run with no key switch, you just won't have any lights. my Dr350s had 3150 miles of dirt riding so i removed and unplugged all the connections, then cleaned and tightened the bullet connectors.. they were real loose and full of dirt. spark went from dull orange to bright blue. i removed the kickstand switch and connected the wires under the tank. runs fine now. going to replace the key switch next. clean and check all your wires. wd40 works pretty good for me. good luck
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:02 AM   #2308
FlyingWman
Gnarly Adventurer
 
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Location: Great lakes state
Oddometer: 238
electrical

I have a 99 DR350 off-road model and i want to make it street-legal. need blinkers, brakelight, high/low beam, horn, basicallly everything. im finding it hard to get info on how to wire all this stuff in and if i need a new regulator
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:38 AM   #2309
culliganman
92 dr 350s
 
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Oddometer: 181
92 Dr350 Pinging

JUST INSTALLED JESSE'S CARB REBUILD ALL WENT SMOOTH. I HAVE A 140 MAIN W/AIR BOX MOD
THE EXTENDED SCREW IS ABOUT 1 AND 3/4 TURNS OUT. THE PROBLEM I AM HAVING IS AFTER THE BIKE GETS HOT IT START TO PING UNDER 3/4 THROTTLE I CAN TURN OUT ANOTHER 1/2 TURN AND IT STOPS BUT THEN THE BIKE IS TO RICH AND DOES NOT RUN AS WELL IN THE LOWER RPM'S AND IS HARD TO START. DO I NEED A DIFFENT JET? OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING.
ALSO I SHOULD MENTION I DID THE CARB KIT BECAUSE IT WASN'T RUNNING WELL AFTER PULLING THE CARB OFF FOUND THAT THE DIAPHRAM IN THE OLD SHOULD HAVE REPLACED PETc*** DESOLVED PUTTING TONS OF CRAP INTO THE CARB. I REPLACED W/RAPTOR ONE WORKS GREAT.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:29 AM   #2310
tjoseph
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Location: East West Virginia
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ping and stall

You could use higher octane fuel. If you're using regular, try mid-grade. Or shim up your needle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by culliganman
THE PROBLEM I AM HAVING IS AFTER THE BIKE GETS HOT IT START TO PING UNDER 3/4 THROTTLE I CAN TURN OUT ANOTHER 1/2 TURN AND IT STOPS BUT THEN THE BIKE IS TO RICH AND DOES NOT RUN AS WELL IN THE LOWER RPM'S AND IS HARD TO START.
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