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Old 07-10-2009, 04:54 PM   #2326
DR Dummy
Somewhere in Georgetown
 
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 12
clean carb and replace all gaskets. I had the same problem going on and it drove me crazy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyanc
I need a little help with my 98. I bought it about 6 weeks ago with 2500 miles on it. Took it to Tellico a couple weeks after I bought it and it ran great until the last morning and it starting stalling when I pulled in the clutch and was hard to start when hot. Also starting hesitating on acceleration. Got it home thinking maybe the valves were out so I checked them.

Intake spec is .05-.10mm - Valves were at .12mm & .13mm
Exhaust spec is .17-.22mm - Valves were at .18mm & .18mm
Set them all to the upper limit of spec.

Pulled the plug and it was somewhat sooty but not terrible. I replaced the plug, buttoned it up and took it for spin and it ran great.

Last night the same stuff started again. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look too bad to me and has less than 200 miles on it.


I'm thinking I have a problem with the carb but don't know where to start. Never been in the carb but that never stopped me before. Could the float be sticking? Trash or water in the carb? Do you think some Seafoam in the tank would help?

Any advice would be appreciated.


Kenny
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:03 PM   #2327
mudmantra
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Humboldt
Oddometer: 327
ratio math and stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Three questions:

1) About how many RPMs does a tooth on the front sprocket change?

2) Going one tooth smaller on the front would lower RPMs right?

3) Would a one tooth sproecket be smaller enought to loosen the chain by a couple of stops?
depends on the ratio. i started with a 14 front 43 rear. changed the front to a 15 rear still 43. a bigger front sprocket well lower engine rpm. i went from 6400rpm at 65mph to just under 6000 at 65mph. so i'd say a 1 tooth front sprocket change ,would change your engine speed around 300 or 400rpm's at around 60 mph. also chain adjuster moved about 2 numbers i think. so you can change the front sprocket pretty easy if you want to .

mudmantra screwed with this post 07-10-2009 at 05:12 PM
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:13 PM   #2328
ShaftEd
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Joined: Nov 2001
Location: San Diego, CA USA
Oddometer: 3,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyanc
I need a little help with my 98. I bought it about 6 weeks ago with 2500 miles on it. Took it to Tellico a couple weeks after I bought it and it ran great until the last morning and it starting stalling when I pulled in the clutch and was hard to start when hot. Also starting hesitating on acceleration. Got it home thinking maybe the valves were out so I checked them.


Pulled the plug and it was somewhat sooty but not terrible. I replaced the plug, buttoned it up and took it for spin and it ran great.

Last night the same stuff started again. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look too bad to me and has less than 200 miles on it.

I'm thinking I have a problem with the carb but don't know where to start. Never been in the carb but that never stopped me before. Could the float be sticking? Trash or water in the carb? Do you think some Seafoam in the tank would help?

Any advice would be appreciated.


Kenny

I just picked up a 99 350SE myself and it also is a bit sooty on the plug and pipe. I have since been told that a common problem with the older DR's is that the oring gasket that seals the floats in the float bowl will shrink over time and not seal correctly causing this type of problem. Try a new oring for the float seal.
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:20 PM   #2329
ShaftEd
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Joined: Nov 2001
Location: San Diego, CA USA
Oddometer: 3,220
BTW, Here's my "new" to me 99 DR350SE. Only 4200 miles. Stock except for pipe and bars.

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Old 07-10-2009, 05:39 PM   #2330
kennyanc
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad
Your plug looks pretty good to me. I would suggest opening up the carb and cleaning it thoroughly. It sounds more like carburation to me than anything else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Dummy
clean carb and replace all gaskets. I had the same problem going on and it drove me crazy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaftEd
I just picked up a 99 350SE myself and it also is a bit sooty on the plug and pipe. I have since been told that a common problem with the older DR's is that the oring gasket that seals the floats in the float bowl will shrink over time and not seal correctly causing this type of problem. Try a new oring for the float seal.
Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll tear into it in the morning. Is there a special gasket kit for the carb or is it possible to find something local?



Kenny
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:32 PM   #2331
Kawidad
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,503
Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyanc
Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll tear into it in the morning. Is there a special gasket kit for the carb or is it possible to find something local?

Kenny
Not that I'm aware of, just individual parts available on line or through your local dealer. BTW, there are two o-rings in the float bowl that go bad. One is for the fuel inlet and the other is for the choke circuit. If you replace one, you should replace them both.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:24 PM   #2332
mudmantra
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Humboldt
Oddometer: 327
mikuni carburetor o-rings

check out your local repair shop and ask if they have a mikuni o-ring kit. you should be able to match them up to the ones you need. most shops do a lot of carburetor repair these days.
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:43 AM   #2333
Purcell69
Mors ex Tenebris
 
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,612
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbunceiii
Mine is a 91, DR350E, dirt only, kickstart. It was kind of a basket case when I got it. The engine was rebuilt, the crank had the oil starvation problem, it blew up!! New Wesico piston too. New Clutch plates, The carb was shot, I tried a rebuild but it was just too tired to save. SO i got a new one from bikebandit.com, $300 plus. I rejetted it and it runs good once its started. Its just a PAIN IN THE ASS to start sometimes, kick and kick and kick. And the clutch

I need electric start. All in all though a good bike, I just hate when it stalls in the woods, hard to start when its hot. The clutch basket is soft aluminum so its tough to find neutral when its super hot. I could replace the basket with a new one from Jesse K but I don't know how much $$ I want to keep dumping in the bike.

I did an enduro school in Meriden CT a few weekends ago. It was from a dead start, which was a pain in the ass. I droped the bike a few times and stalled it out. I kicked it over soo trying to start it I wore myself out.

I like to say the bike has "character" :)

It was my first dirt bike in about 19 years, my old one was a KDX200 2 stroke.

OohRah!

-Joe
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:33 AM   #2334
tpar1220
such a pud..
 
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: martinsville... ish, in.
Oddometer: 2,444
i picked up a carb rebuild kit off ebay for my 99350se... was the best $24 i have ever spent on a motorcycle.

when i removed bowl... parts just fell out of it. o rings were shot and these parts snap together with o rings sealing them.

my bike would not idle, it would slowly flood... and start hard. after installing the kit, starts beautifully and idles perfect... and throttle response is greatly improved.

my bike is pretty much stock, but i would say that the carb kit and the raptor petcock were 2 items that really turned my old bike around, and for a combined price of less than $50... a bargain..
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:34 AM   #2335
FlyingWman
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Location: Great lakes state
Oddometer: 238
help :((

anyone know how to wire in turn signals and lights on a 99 DR350 dirt model
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:17 PM   #2336
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,474
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrairieRider
The '98 is a dirt model. I misspoke before. The tank on the '98 dirt model does bolt at the front; however, when I tried to put the Clarke tank on the dirt model bike, the slots that fit over the bushings on the SE, don't line up with where the bolts on the dirt model. I had been hoping to somehow make the bushings work where the bolts are, but it would take some re-modeling (welding).
Yes, that would be correct. As you discovered, the 'pucks' (S/SE) sit on a post (that's welded to the frame) that protrudes thru the over-the-frame heat shield. The 'dirt' model tank brackets bolt into a threaded stud that's welded to the frame (near the steering head) forward of the heat shield.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrairieRider
I also thought the tanks would be interchangeable. I bought the Clarke tank and put it on my SE. When I bought the '98 dirt, I was going to put the large tank on to it only to find that the bushings were in a different spot.
Yeah, it looks like you have the Clarke "dual sport" tank (#11318) and also need the "dirt model" tank (#11317) for the '98. Perhaps you could sell the Clarke and get an IMS (or the Acerbis which is probably the better choice).
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrairieRider
I am not the original owner but bought it from the original owner who is someone I know well. The bike is definitely a dirt model from stem to stern.
Now I have no doubt!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrairieRider
I recently saved a search in ebay for an acerbis tank. Thank you for the customer service number and the additional information!
Glad I could help shine a little light on the situation - D.
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:28 PM   #2337
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,474
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman
anyone know how to wire in turn signals and lights on a 99 DR350 dirt model
It's not going to be super easy to describe it in this forum. But, I do have a Clymer manual with the wiring diagrams. I'd be happy to make some PDFs for you. I've only owned SE models ('97 & '99). So, I'm not intimately familiar with the 'dirt' model. It's possible you may not even have the wiring to "support" turn signals. In other words, there may be two distinct wiring harnesses; one for the S/SE and another for the 'dirt' model. I do know that my rear turn signals connect to the main harness just behind the left side plate (where the battery is on the S/SE). If there are four extra connectors in that location, you may be able to hook everything up.

Perhaps another inmate, who has done this, will chime in. Let me know if you want the diagrams. I would suggest getting a Clymer, though. They're pretty cheap and a good info source.
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:51 PM   #2338
FlyingWman
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Location: Great lakes state
Oddometer: 238
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
It's not going to be super easy to describe it in this forum. But, I do have a Clymer manual with the wiring diagrams. I'd be happy to make some PDFs for you. I've only owned SE models ('97 & '99). So, I'm not intimately familiar with the 'dirt' model. It's possible you may not even have the wiring to "support" turn signals. In other words, there may be two distinct wiring harnesses; one for the S/SE and another for the 'dirt' model. I do know that my rear turn signals connect to the main harness just behind the left side plate (where the battery is on the S/SE). If there are four extra connectors in that location, you may be able to hook everything up.

Perhaps another inmate, who has done this, will chime in. Let me know if you want the diagrams. I would suggest getting a Clymer, though. They're pretty cheap and a good info source.

Yea that would be great if i could get a copy of those pdf's. and ther is only one connecter underneath my left side plate, and it goes directly to the tailight.
Off to work, will be back later http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/bncry.gif
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:08 PM   #2339
drklr
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: White Plains, NY
Oddometer: 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0hn0tt0


In other news, I installed an MRS universal clutch perch with one-touch adjustment along with a lube of my clutch cable and...WOW, what a difference! I can pull in the clutch lever with 1 finger now, as opposed to needing my whole hand to yank that formerly squeaky bastard back.
Where did you get the MSR Universal Clutch perch from?

Thanks,

John
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:20 PM   #2340
drklr
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: White Plains, NY
Oddometer: 423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intrigue_262000
Well, I got a big box of joy from rocky mountain today! I mounted a set of pro taper bars after work only to find that I needed to get smaller inserts for my hand guards due the the wall thickness of the new bars.the inserts won't be here till thursday, ...
I've used Pro Tapers S/E's before and had no trouble putting on handguards, but I just tried to put a set of hand guards on and the threaded insert only goes in about 2 inches before the wall thickness changes and the insert will not go in any further. The bars were ATV Highs and I was wondering if that made a difference. The others were not.

Where did you get the smaller inserts from?

Thanks,

John
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