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Old 10-03-2009, 09:19 PM   #3016
mudmantra
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Humboldt
Oddometer: 328
Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004
Great power all the way through with the 441 , it really does make me wonder way Suzuki didn't go with this format, i mean air cooled 450 type motor .

The power with the 441 comes on stronger than the DRZ's i have ridden and the low end grunt is tractor like.
thanks for the info. I think I'm going to do the 441 mod in the near future. Mostly I've just got to try it for myself. So far I've heard positive results from 3 source's. gravel Tractor grunt is good. I chugged up this hill today and was going to stop in the middle to take a picture. Well it's a lot steeper than it looks. I stopped and locked both brakes and then started sliding backwards. I let the clutch out and the mt43 hooked up and rode it back up the hill. gravel on clay.. just like riding on marbles.
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Old 10-04-2009, 05:53 AM   #3017
mel brooks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GsVs
Hey Mel ...

Keep us posted on that Sherpa 292 over in the Super Sherpa thread ! ...

Larry

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=249


sorry for the DR hijack, carry on.....
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:33 AM   #3018
B.Curvin
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Left of the dial. Canton, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius

Got everything back together, but I had to order a new chain since the old one was pretty much warped to it's limits and I changed sprocket sizes.

So I still won't get to ride until next weekend.

For future reference, always always always replace the chain when replacing

sprockets. And vice versa. With sprockets that worn, your chain is certainly junk.

The old chain would have worn out the new sprockets in record time, and it might

well have broken on down the road and taken out your cases etc.

As a teenager I put new sprockets on my SR500 and used the old chain.

The chain broke about 2 months later. Fortunately it only took out the sprocket

cover and not the cases, but I did notice that the sprockets were already toast. 1,500 miles maybe?
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:47 AM   #3019
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004
I have a 441 kit on mine and its an easy mod , no need to change cam or valves , extra power is very much worth it without a doubt.
You can even go with a 455 using a DRZ400 piston , I'm getting Jesse to sort that out on my next project.
Hmm, I wonder what kit I'm thinking of then. I'm guessing that Suzuki didn't put much R&D into the DR(Z) series due to it's low sales. But, they probably went to water cooling to better control emissions. They most likely think a DRZ450 would be "too close" to the DR650 (not like that bike is a world sales leader).
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:52 AM   #3020
EvilGenius
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Location: DFW, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVMango
For future reference, always always always replace the chain when replacing

sprockets. And vice versa. With sprockets that worn, your chain is certainly junk.

The old chain would have worn out the new sprockets in record time, and it might

well have broken on down the road and taken out your cases etc.

As a teenager I put new sprockets on my SR500 and used the old chain.

The chain broke about 2 months later. Fortunately it only took out the sprocket

cover and not the cases, but I did notice that the sprockets were already toast. 1,500 miles maybe?

Yeah I know the chain is done, I was just hoping I could get it tight enough to get a run around the block to see how the gear changes have affected the ride.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:06 AM   #3021
mudmantra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Yeah I know the chain is done, I was just hoping I could get it tight enough to get a run around the block to see how the gear changes have affected the ride.
If your running the 15/43 sprockets you were talking about getting, it's going to be pretty tall. You might find this interesting. I have 15/43 on my 92dr350s, a few days ago I removed the 108 link chain and installed a 110 link chain. Adjuster went from 0+2 to 5+2. I think it well be at 6+1 when the chain brakes in. I like the 110 chain for the 15 front sprocket, i might be crazy, but the little increase in wheel base seems to make the bike more stable at speed. If i use the 14 front sprocket, I'll put the 108 back on. 5 minute job to change chain and front sprocket. chain adjust
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:40 PM   #3022
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmantra
How dose the 441 big bore kit effect the dr350 engine? I already have a pumper carburetor, air box opened up, and aftermarket exhaust. Power is excellent up to 8000rpm and still continues to pull good to redline. So my question is this, if i change my bore to 441 with the stock cam and valves, well it limit the rev range? Or well it still make good power to redline? How did it effect your powerband when you installed a big bore kit on your dr350?
Here's a dyno chart.
There's no comparison. The 440 pulls harder through the whole range.
Red line is stock with opened up airbox and a modified stock exhaust.
The blue line is the same bike with only the addition of our 440 big bore kit.

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Old 10-04-2009, 08:59 PM   #3023
mudmantra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
Here's a dyno chart.
There's no comparison. The 440 pulls harder through the whole range.
Red line is stock with opened up airbox and a modified stock exhaust.
The blue line is the same bike with only the addition of our 440 big bore kit.

cool! thanks, the redline shows pretty much what my engine is doing now. Pulls real hard to 8000 and then takes it's time getting to 9000, (except in the first 4 gears), there it well rip right up to 9000 no problem. Going 441 Looks like a good winter project.
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:54 AM   #3024
straight cut
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: GREAT BRITAIN
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle
Here's a dyno chart.
There's no comparison. The 440 pulls harder through the whole range.
Red line is stock with opened up airbox and a modified stock exhaust.
The blue line is the same bike with only the addition of our 440 big bore kit.

Mines about 1hp down all through the RED range peaking at the same point ,its a SE model with a DEP pipe and std cv carb
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:01 AM   #3025
FlyingWman
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Location: Great lakes state
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im looking to get a hi/low switch to make my dirt DR street legal. here's what im thinking:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...p?skuId=210885

in the product description it says if there is continuity between the two wires going into the kill switch then it will not work. does anyone know if there is?
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:06 PM   #3026
EvilGenius
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Location: DFW, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmantra
If your running the 15/43 sprockets you were talking about getting, it's going to be pretty tall. You might find this interesting. I have 15/43 on my 92dr350s, a few days ago I removed the 108 link chain and installed a 110 link chain. Adjuster went from 0+2 to 5+2. I think it well be at 6+1 when the chain brakes in. I like the 110 chain for the 15 front sprocket, i might be crazy, but the little increase in wheel base seems to make the bike more stable at speed. If i use the 14 front sprocket, I'll put the 108 back on. 5 minute job to change chain and front sprocket. chain adjust
Cool!
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:18 PM   #3027
EvilGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
Acerbis questions- My bike starts 1st kick (YES!! ) now that I know how. Will that change once I mount the Acerbis tank that does not have the "prime" position? Do I need to change the way I start the bike?

Sorry for sounding like such a newbie, but I guess I am when it comes to this bike.
The "On" position on a regular petcock shouldn't be any different than the "prime" position on the stock petcock.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:20 PM   #3028
matloik
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Joined: May 2008
Location: PDX | Hood River
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
Acerbis questions- My bike starts 1st kick (YES!! ) now that I know how. Will that change once I mount the Acerbis tank that does not have the "prime" position? Do I need to change the way I start the bike?

Sorry for sounding like such a newbie, but I guess I am when it comes to this bike.
Yes, you will need to change the way you start the bike -- you will need to master the delicacy of turning the petcock dial to the 'ON' position instead of that 'PRI' position of your old fuel valve. Your bike-off routine should also include a new maneuver of turning it to the 'OFF' position. I'd make a habit of that, just in case one day your carb's needle valve malfunctions and does not close all the way and fuel ends up all inside your machine and on your garage floor. Ask me how I know.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:34 PM   #3029
matloik
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Location: PDX | Hood River
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
What exactly is the difference between on and prime on the DR?
'PRI' is what the rest of the world knows as 'ON' -- the valve is open, fuel will flow. The 'ON' position with the vacuum-actuated petcock opened up to allow fuel flow when there was vacuum, from the carb -- except when it malfunctioned and stuck open ... and allowed fuel to flow into your machine and onto your garage floor. Ask me how I know.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:35 PM   #3030
clapped_r6
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Location: Ridgefield, WA
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ditch the vaccuum setup, i put a wr400 one on mine that was cheap and way nicer than stock.
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