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Old 10-07-2009, 10:14 PM   #3046
Bob Onit
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Location: Population 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast
I've got a dual-cable set up for my CV carb. Will I need a new throttle for the pumper or just a cable?
You can not use the CV cables with a pumper carb. The exposed portion of the inner cable is not long enough.

I'd go with the single cable setup from Kientech ($40) as mudmantra and Jcalis suggested.
Plus, If you're one that likes to carry a spare throttle cable as I do.... it's much more convenient.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:02 AM   #3047
TinyTim
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Clutch sticking

Hi Guys,
Recently got another DR350SE(1996). I had removed and oiled the sticking clutch cable. Upon re-assembly I cannot get the gears to disengage completely. The bike dies as soon as I put it in gear with the clutch lever fully in. With engine off and clutch lever in I can feel resistance when I push the bike. It does not roll freely. I have tried adjusting the cable at the lever end as well as at the clutch arm to no avail. Other than sticking the clutch was fine before. Help please.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:40 AM   #3048
mudmantra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duxrneet
Hey, what are some good brake pads for these bikes? I think mine still has the original ones. I'm not looking for something that's going to kill the rotor, either. Thanks!
Yeah there are so many pads out there, it's hard to decide. Suzuki would be good, but having said that. I'm going to use braking pads, semi metalic. I get a good price on them and they look just like the stock stuff.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:49 AM   #3049
RENCRN8
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I am happy with EBC FA135Rks on my wifes bike. I run EBC on all my bikes and have had good luck with them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmantra
Yeah there are so many pads out there, it's hard to decide. Suzuki would be good, but having said that. I'm going to use braking pads, semi metalic. I get a good price on them and they look just like the stock stuff.
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:48 AM   #3050
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinyTim
Hi Guys,
Recently got another DR350SE(1996). I had removed and oiled the sticking clutch cable. Upon re-assembly I cannot get the gears to disengage completely. The bike dies as soon as I put it in gear with the clutch lever fully in. With engine off and clutch lever in I can feel resistance when I push the bike. It does not roll freely. I have tried adjusting the cable at the lever end as well as at the clutch arm to no avail. Other than sticking the clutch was fine before. Help please.
make sure that wen you put the clutch cover back on the splines on the clutch shaft(located inside the cover to the cover) and the other splined rod coming out of the clutch line up. i cant think if the exact names of the part right now haha
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:09 PM   #3051
FlyingWman
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REsistorrrr

Question....

I am going to to take the wires from the headlight and route them thru a High/low/horn switch. the horn will be conected to the killswitch function button on the switch, i believe the the continuity thru a kill switch will make it so the horn is on only when i push it, and not all of the time. The back is going to be a hydraulic brake switch running into a 3 wire socket and a dual filament bulb, in replace of the old 2 wire single element bulb.

My most important ever possibly is Do i need a resistor so all of these bulbs do not blow up when rpms go waaaaaayyyyy up? and were would one, or many, wire up to
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:21 PM   #3052
mouthfulloflake
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do you have a dirt 350?

or an electric starter version?

there should be a regulator under your seat, screwed to the airbox, it keeps the voltage from burning the bulbs.




Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman
Question....

I am going to to take the wires from the headlight and route them thru a High/low/horn switch. the horn will be conected to the killswitch function button on the switch, i believe the the continuity thru a kill switch will make it so the horn is on only when i push it, and not all of the time. The back is going to be a hydraulic brake switch running into a 3 wire socket and a dual filament bulb, in replace of the old 2 wire single element bulb.

My most important ever possibly is Do i need a resistor so all of these bulbs do not blow up when rpms go waaaaaayyyyy up? and were would one, or many, wire up to
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:04 PM   #3053
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
do you have a dirt 350?

or an electric starter version?

there should be a regulator under your seat, screwed to the airbox, it keeps the voltage from burning the bulbs.
I have a 99 Dirt model. and dont believe their is a resistor on the dirt model, but i dont know
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:09 PM   #3054
nevada72
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Well I found the leak



Hard to see in the pic but oil is leaking out of the frame. I removed the tank, cleaned everything up - no leak. I got it running with the gas tank removed to see if it only leaked under pressure. The oil started to flow through the crack where the engine mount is welded to the frame. It basically drips quite a bit of oil on the top of the motor which runs down and makes a mess, not to mention a smoke show.

I searched the topic on Maximum and found another guy who had the same problem. Now to find a fix. I've heard of people sealing the resevoir like a gas tank, but I believe one would have to take the bike apart in order to do that the right way (clean, flush, seal, empty, etc.). Welding or brazing is an option and it could be done in place. Then there's good ole JB weld, but the other guy said it didn't last on his. Maybe he didn't clean it up well enough?

Any ideas would be welcome.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:23 PM   #3055
Phreaky Phil
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Where does this fit?

I recently purchased a X model 350 that is steet legal and has the big ugly headlight. Previous ownerat some stage has ridden bike as trailbike without headlight so wiring was all tapped up. I cant figure out where the bit that i'm holding in my hand is surposed to mount. No matter where I try it it seems to be in the way.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:35 AM   #3056
mouthfulloflake
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there wont be a resistor on it.

there should be an AC voltage regulator under the seat ( thats where it is on my 1991)

it takes the High voltage AC from the stator, and keeps it under 13/14 volts so it wont burn the bulbs up.

you still likely have AC though, NOT DC, the street versions had a regulator AND rectifier to change the AC into DC to charge the battery.



Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman
I have a 99 Dirt model. and dont believe their is a resistor on the dirt model, but i dont know
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:15 AM   #3057
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
there wont be a resistor on it.

there should be an AC voltage regulator under the seat ( thats where it is on my 1991)

it takes the High voltage AC from the stator, and keeps it under 13/14 volts so it wont burn the bulbs up.

you still likely have AC though, NOT DC, the street versions had a regulator AND rectifier to change the AC into DC to charge the battery.
So the bulbs will not blow up with my current plan??
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:31 AM   #3058
mouthfulloflake
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do they blow up now?



Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman
So the bulbs will not blow up with my current plan??
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Old 10-10-2009, 11:24 AM   #3059
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
do they blow up now?
No
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:40 PM   #3060
duxrneet
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If your bike has a regulator that works, you won't be frying bulbs! Now GPS's are a different matter. Sensitive DC stuff will need a rectifier and capacitor to smooth out the voltage and make all the juice go one way.
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