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Old 06-27-2010, 08:51 AM   #5101
FlyingWman
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Whats the difference between a size 90/90 front tire and a 80/90 front tire?
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:51 AM   #5102
mel brooks
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Width
The first number or second letter in a tire size represents the nominal width. Width is measured in a straight line from the furthest point on one sidewall, across the tread, to the furthest point on the opposite sidewall. If there is any question whether or not a larger than OEM tire will fit your bike, you're encouraged to call Tech Service. The different size numbering systems specify widths in different measurements. You can view a width cross reference table below.
Aspect Ratio
Aspect Ratios indicate a tires cross-sectional profile. The smaller the number, the lower the profile. It expresses the height to width ratio as a percent. A 90 aspect ratio means the tire's cross sectional height is 90% of it's width. The aspect ratio appears immediately after the width in the Metric, Alpha and Low Profile Inch numbering systems.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/ti...izeexplain.jsp



1.60, 1.85 80 MH 3.00 3.60
1.85, 2.15 90 MJ 3.25 3.60
1.85, 2.15 90 ML 3.50 4.10

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Old 06-27-2010, 01:04 PM   #5103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drzoomn
you would lose that bet . my bike is a 99, and there is still a difference, not only in axle diameter, but in overall width of the drive itself. but the internals of the drives appear at first glance to be the same size. so that's why i'm thinking maybe regearing a DR350 drive with a DRZ SM's internals may be an option. that is, if they are something you can take apart and put back together
The DRZ axle is thicker yet? I'll be dipped...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wylie
I live in Shoshone Idaho, nothing is local. Boise is about 100 miles away.
Yes, I noticed that. That's why I typed, "... I'll bet there's (a dealer) in the Pacific NW..."
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:17 PM   #5104
RandyM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drzoomn
they aren't DRZ wheels. they are built wheels from procycle on OEM DR hubs. what i did was modify/adapt the DRZ SM speedo drive to fit so my speedometer will read the correct speed. the DRZ has a larger diameter axle and the speedo drive is not as thick as the DR one. so i machined a spacer/insert that goes in the DRZ speedo drive and then adds some width to it on the outside. the other trick i had to do kind of looks dumb, but since the DRZ drive is narrower the plastic stop that keep the speedo drive in place do not connect with the fork. so i simply drilled a screw into the DRZ drive's tab so that the screw would act as a stop. so far it's holding up, but i don't like that part.

for a next step i'm going to pick up a another DR speedo drive and take it apart and see if can simply swap out the drive gears from the DRZ drive into a DR drive.
Thanks for posting that! I have been thinking of lacing up a spare set of wheels for supermoto tires.

Procycle has a supermoto speedo drive for the DR650. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html The DR650 has 17mm axle which is the diameter as the 1999,1998 DR350SE and 1997-1999 DR350 dirt models. The older dr350 models use 15mm front axles. I don't know if it is the right width or if it will mate up to the hub or not. It might just be a modified DRZ400supermoto speedo. I doubt that it is a drop-in fit, otherwise they would put it on the DR350 page. I was planning to look into it when the time came.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:11 PM   #5105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM
Thanks for posting that! I have been thinking of lacing up a spare set of wheels for supermoto tires.

Procycle has a supermoto speedo drive for the DR650. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html The DR650 has 17mm axle which is the diameter as the 1999,1998 DR350SE and 1997-1999 DR350 dirt models. The older dr350 models use 15mm front axles. I don't know if it is the right width or if it will mate up to the hub or not. It might just be a modified DRZ400supermoto speedo. I doubt that it is a drop-in fit, otherwise they would put it on the DR350 page. I was planning to look into it when the time came.
it looks like a modded DRZ drive and it might be a fit for the later 350s as it looks like what i did. i bet they pressed out the DRZ's metal sleeve and replaced it with the custom machined one. i was tempted to try that, but wasn't sure it would work and didn't want to destroy the DRZ speedo drive. so i just made an insert that went in the DRZ drive. that might be a good option...although a bit spendy. also like my set up i don't think the plastic tab would contact with the 350's fork. maybe that's not a big deal?
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:41 AM   #5106
jplum1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Dummy
rebuild the carb and you'll be fine. I had the same problem.
Yea, I'll end up doing that. I think I'll do the airbox mod/exhaust mod then rebuild the carb along with rejetting sometime this summer. Choke problem isn't in dire need of repair so i'll leave it alone for now. Finding a rebuild kit for the dr350se carb took some time but i got the website saved for when I'll need it.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:02 AM   #5107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jplum1556
Yea, I'll end up doing that. I think I'll do the airbox mod/exhaust mod then rebuild the carb along with rejetting sometime this summer. Choke problem isn't in dire need of repair so i'll leave it alone for now. Finding a rebuild kit for the dr350se carb took some time but i got the website saved for when I'll need it.
Let me (highly) suggest that you get the carb rebuilt and running properly before you do any modifications. With something like a carb, there are so many variables that it's easy to make one small mistake and you end up chasing your tail for weeks. I'm not trying to tell you your business but, from personal experience, 'baby steps' usually save time in the long run. YMMV
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:52 PM   #5108
matloik
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Pumper Jetting Woes

Recently I traded my stock muffler for an aftermarket. This necessitated some carb tuning. My setup prior to the can swap: air box cut open 3x3; pumper carb with #37.5 pilot and #140 main; and I also had had my stock muffler opened up by Jesse. This setup worked wonderfully. However, upon swapping over to the Yoshi I was experiencing a LOT of popping on decel, and notable hesitation in the high end. So I put in a #40 pilot and a #142.5 main; my pilot screw is out about 1 1/8 turn. The backfire popping is now a little here and there, which I understand to be normal. I still have a noticable lag/cut out at around 8000 rpms; and a bit at 6500 on spirited accelleration, or off/on roll of the throttle in that rpm range. A moderated/gradual roll on past 6500 does not hiccup. I have not yet done a formal plug check at the 3 ranges, but looked at it after a ride yesterday of mixed road and woods single-track. It was white, so I could still be a bit lean.

So. Put in the 145 main and dropped the needle clip down one (which happens to be the bottom position). Buttoned it back up and went for a ride. It was hesitating from 1/3 throttle and up. I did a plug check at mid-range, thinking maybe I opened up a bit too much with the clip in the lowest groove, but it looked good. Did I introduce an air leak? I spritzed some water at carb in/out connections, but didn't notice anything. I don't think I have an exhaust leak at the header. I did notice that I have leaking at the muffler can where the mid-pipe connects to the can. This a real bummer as I've got the next few days off and was hoping to ride. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Oh, also, I can't be for certain, but I think it may be running on the hot side. The engine seemed very hot after a 15 minute ride. Plug was quite hot, difficult to extract with bare fingers.
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:50 PM   #5109
D-Train
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Another gearing question... I have searched but I need specific info. I am going to run 15 47 gearing on my '98 dirt model and carry a 14T front for gnarly stuff. How many links should the chain be? Anyone else running this combo that knows Thanks again everyone!
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Old 06-29-2010, 01:55 AM   #5110
Mulekick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Train
Another gearing question... I have searched but I need specific info. I am going to run 15 47 gearing on my '98 dirt model and carry a 14T front for gnarly stuff. How many links should the chain be? Anyone else running this combo that knows Thanks again everyone!
Custom fit the chain to the 15. Adjust to the 14. Eezee pezee..
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:47 AM   #5111
vfrf2
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Looking for some soft saddlebag support options to avoid burning side covers on my DR 350 in the future. Burned one very nicely while on a New England trip last week. Not into spending a boat load of money on systems like the Denali stuff. There has to be an alternative. Any homemade solutions that some of you have come up with? I have a welder here at home, so...I could fab something...just need some ideas for what kind of tubing etc some of you have used in the past.
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:05 AM   #5112
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Train
Another gearing question... I have searched but I need specific info. I am going to run 15 47 gearing on my '98 dirt model and carry a 14T front for gnarly stuff. How many links should the chain be? Anyone else running this combo that knows Thanks again everyone!
The stock chain for 'dirt gearing' is 110 links. However, I forget what 'dirt gearing' is (14/47? - I think it depends on the model year). With the 15t c/s sprocket, you may need something slightly longer, 112 links? HTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrf2
Looking for some soft saddlebag support options to avoid burning side covers on my DR 350 in the future. Burned one very nicely while on a New England trip last week. Not into spending a boat load of money on systems like the Denali stuff. There has to be an alternative. Any homemade solutions that some of you have come up with? I have a welder here at home, so...I could fab something...just need some ideas for what kind of tubing etc some of you have used in the past.
Tom (an inmate here) at Turbo City (TCI) makes several racks for the DR. They all support soft bags without them resting on the side panels. However, given your "boatload of money" comment, they might be too much $$$. You can get some ideas by looking at his designs. If you can weld, can you bend 1/2" dia. tubing? If so, you're on your way.
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:12 AM   #5113
OCRedRoadster
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DR350SE carb rebuild kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by jplum1556
Yea, I'll end up doing that. I think I'll do the airbox mod/exhaust mod then rebuild the carb along with rejetting sometime this summer. Choke problem isn't in dire need of repair so i'll leave it alone for now. Finding a rebuild kit for the dr350se carb took some time but i got the website saved for when I'll need it.
I am in need of that same rebuild kit, but need it now...would your share the website where I can buy one?
I am the new owner of a 1996 350se and got it with a rusty tank and plugged up carb. I got a used, clean acerbis tank so no more rust.. Now I need that carb rebuilt!

Thanks for any help with it
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Old 06-29-2010, 02:32 PM   #5114
Mulekick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
The stock chain for 'dirt gearing' is 110 links. However, I forget what 'dirt gearing' is (14/47? - I think it depends on the model year). With the 15t c/s sprocket, you may need something slightly longer, 112 links?
I run a Moose HPO It comes with 120 links. Cut it to fit.
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Old 06-29-2010, 02:35 PM   #5115
Klay
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I just ordered a 108 link Parts Unlimited chain. They said it should be 108 links at Dennis Kirk. I didn't count the number on the old chain. We'll see.
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